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As ive previously said turbos generally still produce even when massively screwed, so somthing very obvious will be wrong with it. i'd take the turbo off and check that the shaft turns(inlet hose off first to try to turn it by hand is first easiest step), if it doesnt then maybe part of the washer has jammed the turbo. you'll need to remove the bolts securing the clamps on the turbine housing and remove very carefully. check the turbine for any damage,bent fins from the foreign object.
Take off the exhaust elbow and spin the turbine wheel and make sure the comp wheel is spinning and that the shaft hasn't some how snapped. Comp wheel could be spinning when revved due to the air being sucked in, I guess:scratch:
I'm with this suggestion, should there not be 3 funny shaped washer, brackety things on there?Quote:
Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ
Also have you checked the pipe going to the standard boost guage for leaks?
Guys thanks for all the ideas but believe me Iv checked everything physical thing four times with r5turborons different hoses and intercooller I took the turbo off completely four times felt the shaf it's fine the rear turbine moves a little but I was told when the oil pressure gets to it it stiffened up so I re connected it and it did. Blunty has agreed for me to send it back to BW turbos for investigation.. I can't tell you how much I checked all hoses with an electric pump and all pipes went up to 40psi with no leaks.. My mrs hasn't spoke to me four a week as Iv been on this car searching.. It must be the turbo because Iv personally checked EVERYWERE lol it's drove me mad till early hrs of the morning all week.. Cheers guys
No smoke
No metal noises
No leaks
Only about 2psi coming out the turbo it's bonkers as the actuator holds to 35psi
Cracked exh mani:D
nope had a tata shoved up my pipe no leaks :)
How did you pressurise the system matey? Pump on turbo inlet?
i did for the actuator but not on the turbo can that be done?:scratch:
Baked bean can with a tyre valve glued/wedged in there silicone hose it to the turbo inlet. You can block off just before the lobster to check the boost circuit for leaks, or poss block up the down pipe and test everything.
So there should be a perfect seal back through? You guys know all the tricks something tells me this is a common thing?
As I say my mate had his foot over the exchaust and sealed it that way and the car stalled out with no air leaks what so ever.. I had done my upmost to seal every part with gaskets and paste didn't think off doing the turbo housings so is the turbo a perfect sealed unit then?
Air may be able to escape in some areas but not a lot, you should still be able to pressurise the system if not you have a big boost leak somewhere.
I tested all 6mm pipe with electiric pump and a football valve and all went to 40psi so did the actuator so did the fuel reg valve and pipe work and I did all the dash boost hosses they all went to 40psi the carb was fine no leaks the boost hoses and intercooller was all changed with a known working car off r5turborons car so it's none of them.. I really dont want it to be the turbo I hope it comes back good. But Iv sealed Iv checked Iv done everything possible I think :-) not tried pressuring the turbo the bake been can is one I will be trying this weekend at some point.. Crazy idea but if it works :agree:
Put a pic of your bay on. lets see whats going on.
http://s1170.photobucket.com/albums/...r_jmedia_share
http://s1170.photobucket.com/albums/...er_media_share
http://s1170.photobucket.com/albums/...er_media_share
http://s1170.photobucket.com/albums/...er_media_share
http://s1170.photobucket.com/albums/...er_media_share
http://s1170.photobucket.com/albums/...er_media_share
By no means is it show material but it worked just fine
Cant see anything blocking the exhaust elbow that should be there when cup mod is performed. Might just be pic :confused:
The dude before me had a wheel nut in there so I cut it flat it is there but flushed off.
I think your problem is you have got aei feed from base of carb and feed from middle of carb to actuator mixed up! Your pics looks like your connecting aei to carb middle outlet and actuator to the outlet at the base of the carb above the breathers.
Cheers bid but Iv tried both ways and makes no difference.. My pal off here has offerd me a recond t2 so I'm going back to reliable.. And get this checked out..
I did wonder why it is if you take off the pipe from the bottom of the car it runs poorly but if you take the top one off nothing happens? I also thought did I drill to deep when taking the second stage up a notch.. So Sunday I'm changing to a t2 first and see were I am from there.. I have a video of the noise but can't upload it.. As I don't have a pc just an iPhone..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny5
yep, that is a one way trip to fails-ville.
the actuator port needs to goto the carb top. -not under the throttle plate.
Wont doing it the "wrong way" be feeding the aei unit a fuel/air mixture?
Hey guys I only put it that way to try two days ago and Iv left it in the garage since it hasn't been that way.. I was just trying everything.. It's Definatley not that and before I drive it I will change it back..
is it just me or does it look like the wastegate is open:scratch: how much preload is on there?
easy way to see. unhook the actuator and use some wire to put tension on the wastegate arm - then take the car for a run - be careful as it comes on boost tho!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by SCHWARTZ
It's well an truly slammed **** mate yesterday Marky mark had me wind it in another cm and it took all my super human strength to get the actuator arm on and still no difference. Well about 1psi it raises to about 3psi on boost then collapses yet the actuator Dosnt start moving until 20psi.. :scratch:
Checked the seal on the compressor housing dv blanking plate?
Sorry if already said just had a skim read and look at your pics!!
Yes bud all tight and no difference..
none of your pics seem to work for me dude?
I can only do them off my iPhone matey i don't have a pc
When you're posting pics cut and paste the image address into your post then the pics automatically load. I use the Photobucket app for the i phone.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
I wanted to share something on Photobucket with you!
http://s1170.photobucket.com/albums/...er_media_share
See the fullsize version at: http://s1170.photobucket.com/albums/...er_media_share
Sent from my iPhone
they all fail for me dude.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamie_clioGTT
photobucket links do for me too even when im logged in ??
oh bugger :scratch: it all looks ok to me im whipping the turbo off tomorrow and i will try to pressurise it as described earlier.. going to put a t2 back on now which member r5turbron has kindly sold me im bord of all the hassles :sad2: iv got a contact now in midland turbo so going to get it checked out when i can afford it. iv realised i need to spend some family time for a while now this 5 has taken over my life and cost me way too much.. im not defeated just going to leave it out for a bit :) im getting the hints from the mrs its time for number two baby so its time to get in on :hump: :) thanks for all your help guys all of you..
Mate your actuator vacum pipe and the aei line are connected the wrong way around on the carb
http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/...1/715edac7.jpg
Already discussed above mate :)
:ashamed::laugh: to much to go through on phoneQuote:
Originally Posted by Jonny5
the last question is why dose nothing happen from the carb top pipe you see in the pick? or dose it just happen when driving? i thought there would be air flow through it or a sucking but nothing happens when the pipe is disconnected from the carb? is that right?:scratch:
the turbo will only spin up when top carb elbow is connected the revs make turbo spin.
It will only suck from below the throttle position and it will only blow up there when on boost. This does not help you.:cry:Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Walker
me too, but..... in the address bar delete everything after 'Walkingboots01', then you can see his whole album.
Quick one guys I'm fitting a t2 back on the 5 but the standard oil feed pipe now Dosnt fit is the phase one t2 different to phase two? If so what adapter threads do I need?? Cheers
Yes. Phase 2 turbos are water cooled but not the phase 1.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottswoody
I have a t2 that's been fully recond it has oil and water feeds just like my old t2 they fit fine but the oil feed threads are different.. Any ideas on the threads? Just so I can go to pirtec and get a fitment for my standard phase 2 oil pipe..
Anyone :scratch: I don't even know the size of the standard oil feed threads.. Or should I take it all off again and take it all with me to pirtec..
7/16 to 24tpi? Or 1/2 to 20? :scratch:
I noticed you said earlier up the thread that you can move the compressor housing on the turbo, this shouldn't move! They have a rubber o ring, its possible that this could have broken...
Also go over all your main boost pipes, check for splits or of you can change them with known good ones..
O n take your air filter off and try that, air filter could well of shat itself inside..