Well done on WR 674bhp mate
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Well done on WR 674bhp mate
A bit of an update.
In the last month I've added a 2nd wastegate since the single one was insufficient. Minimum boost was 2 bar, which as fun as it sounds didn't allow much in the way of traction in 1st and 2nd gear. Now it creeps only a couple of psi which is acceptable. Even preferable since it means in lower gears the boost will creep naturally as speed increases.
It's a bit of a rough-arse installation, there really wasn't anywhere else for it to go.
http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/i/2x50mm_gates.JPG
Finally the new injectors arrived, 2000cc injector dynamics. Don't ask what they cost, I'm trying to forget it. I could have bought a reasonable condition GT turbo for the same money. I tell myself it's a "one time expenditure" :rolleyes:
http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/i/id2000.JPG
"It's a bit of a rough-arse installation"
Yeah Chris, it really looks s**t. :laugh:
Injectors look good, I hope they do what you need, are you planning to run again this year mate?
Sat night special maybe ? I think a few of us are going...
Also does that mean you'll be putting more boost through it now :eek:
Yes steve, I've got a few outings planned, I want to try and get the best out of this setup before I think about changing anything.
very nice :)
lets see if they live upto the hype ;)
get the thing back out before the goal posts move even further
Scoff, i guess on that manifold you wont be going twin scroll?
Nice work:agree: Whats the idle like? Smooth
I like the way each one of your injectors matches the flow of my entire fuel system :D
It was late in the garage jon, I just chucked some numbers at the ECU to get it running and idle was no worse than the old 870cc's @ 4bar but a/f's were probably a bit rich. I'll see how they go today, back on the dyno on saturday to see if it'll deal with more boost.
I think I'll be doing well to use half of them, Specky was at 55% for his 9.86 @ 148
Love the wastegate pantry :cool:
Love it chris hey sound like they will make an improvement on an already insane car. Are you up at wgt this sat?
Yes andy, 11am.
I've just been and done a base map. They're the trickiest injectors I've had to tune yet. Yes, they idle quite well, oddly its the part throttle that's not as nice to tune. Anything much leaner than 12:1 makes for a stuttery response. I tried different injector currents and even forcing them to peak and hold but nothing improved their response. It's probably more likely to be spray pattern and injector angle related. I don't care, it won't bother WOT.
Nice work mate, hope you have some good luck when you get out on the 1/4 @ pod. All the effort and dedication i hope "and fingers crossed" will prove to have been worth while.
New injectors in and working OK. I spent the morning on the dyno and mapped to a moderate boost. Then it was time to take the restrictive exhaust off to set the boost properly. The n/s outer CV exploded on the following run which put an end to the day. Shame, I wanted to record the difference between exhaust on and exhaust off. I've not stripped the CV completely yet but it looks like the bit in the middle that carries the 3 bearings gave way. Thats 4 shafts/cv's in 2 months, so I need a better fix.
It used about 55% of those injectors @ 6000rpm already, but with the exhaust on we couldn't carry the boost to the red line. I think I'll need to set it up the rest of the way on the track.
Right now I'll just have to put another renault CV on so I can finish the year then look at ways of fitting the audi outers too, maybe the hubs too if need be.
Do you think you will have another big hike in power with this new setup? Are you going for a new exhaust too if its causing you problems?
No probably not a big hike, I just need to push another few mph of trap out of it.
The exhaust is a full 3" with single 3" straight through sillencer, I don't know what else I could fit under the car to make it any better flowing! 3.5" maybe, but it would hang much too low I think. Better just to keep running the open pipe at the track.
Looking the business as usual sir! I'm not surprised that you are breaking the outer cv I broke one on my GT last month. More due to old age than power, I was surprised at what little holds them together!
Yeah, they're a bit feable compared to a big audi one or something.
I had already welded the spline up and welded tube over the narrow part of the cv, which is where they were normally breaking. this time it's just the guts inside that shattered. Just for the fun of it I looked at the plot to see when it broke. It got to 1400 lb/ft @ the hubs before the cv died, which was about 450lb at the flywheel, long before peak torque, so I think the cv might have started to break up on the run before.
This is why we run 4" pipe, and as short as poss.
Bummer about the CV mate :(
Be interesting to see your take on solving this problem,
It's common problem in the Honda world too, I read summer about using porshe 108mm cv's, there the biggest standard fit cv's apparently if that's any help
I stripped the broken cv last night. It's actually sheered the 3 legged bearing carrier out of the cup. Not a lot I can do to strengthen that. I wonder if there are some bigger renault CV's that will slip in to the drive flanges without modification.
Thats what I feared, and there's little or no room for expansion in the R5 flanges. I might look at fitting the bigger audi CV's if I can find 4 stud VW hubs/bearings/flanges. I need to speak to some VW nuts to see what fits what :)
Which hubs and CV's did you switch up to andy ? And would you say the CV's were any stronger ?
when :)
Initially I swapped to valver hubs for the thicker flanges (the ones I split open) but with standard CVs
I now have early 4 stud 2.2TD Laguna hubs and they are massive, twice the weight of GTT ones.
On the Twingo I use modified 172 hubs, they would probably be my suggestion as they are more readily available and tougher than GTT. They will need modifying (see my twingo thread) and use bigger driveshaft splines. The standard 172 shafts are solid.
I ment the laguna hubs you have. I already run the 16v hubs and bearings. It's the bigger CV I need.
Did the laguna use bigger CV's and splines ?
I guess the 172 uses the same CV and spline as the GTT ?
I can see that laguna DCI uses 4 stud too. I've found some hubs, brakes, discs, shafts and suspension going for cheap. Maybe that's worth a look at.
they are both bigger than GTT I'm using SADEV driveshafts with the laguna stuff.
I can't recall whether all Lagunas were created equal mine have 16mm damper bolts (compared to 14mm 172 and 12mm GTT)
cvs are from standard twingo, 172 and sadev. Not sure why I didn't grab a GTT one...
compare the valver upright with the Laguna
Another thought, I'm not sure what you'd do about a caliper to fit under 13s, you might be able to make a bracket to hold a GTT one?
Yes, calipers, I figured I'd get the GT ones on somehow.
But OK, 172 and Laguna splines look the same then, would you agree they are ?
So maybe I could fit 172 hubs and then decide weather laguna or 172 CV's are best. That is, as long as there is clearance in behind the 172 hub for a bigger CV.
I just tried the 172 cv in the laguna hub and it looked OK
Thankyou, good info :)
chris!are the purple parts on the injectors just extensions?
scoff, might be talking to bailey morris about a new shaft setup http://www.baileymorris.co.uk/
They did a few custom driveshafts for a 1.8t mk2 golf for a guy at work and basically said if he could break them they'll fix them for free :smokin:
Hi Michael, yes extensions, the injectors are bosch EV14 compacts. The spacers bring them up to Bosch EV1 dimensions.
Fordy, thankyou, I was looking for places that might make something custom. I need to get some bigger hubs in there first and maybe increase the front track while I'm at it to save using the spacers I run now and to allow a longer driveshaft. Right now I'm convinced the failures on that side are because the shaft is so short - it cannot twist.
The last shaft I made had parrallel lines pressed into it's length. Over the 2" bit of "renault" shaft I had twisted it about 20 degrees after only a few runs!
This weekend I'm at pod to make some adjustments. I'll leave launch control until the very end of the day. I think the shock loading is what's causing the problems. I never had these problems before launch control.
"Hi Michael, yes extensions, the injectors are bosch EV14 compacts. The spacers bring them up to Bosch EV1 dimensions..............
where and how much....plus...small injectors...obviously good capacity for the c1j.....any prices?
Those extensions came with my injectors from injector dynamics in the USA. I don't know if they're available seperately, but they can't be hard to make !
Small injectors for the C1J - that depends on what the power goal is. 300cc will do for a 210hp or so limit. Standard Volvo B18ft injectors (there must be loads of those kicking about) should be good for 150hp or so.
" but they can't be hard to make ....
very true,i might have to have a go!
what i mean is the actual solenoid part of the inj. from ur pic seems to have got very small(bit like the new ones in a golf)but the capacity is large!?
Hi Michael
I might have misunderstood sorry. I don't have a C1J, so I thought you were asking about injectors for a C1J. These things flow 2200cc/min @ 3 bar. Aparantly they are carefully modified 550cc Bosch injectors.
But, there are lots of flow ratings in that physical package. Look at pico injectors, denso, bosch ev14.
I guess that since I bothered to start this thread I should try to keep it up to date !
Broke lots of drive shafts in the last couple of months. Never in the same way, I must have broken every part of the shaft and outer CV now. Something has to change.
As a result of some advice from Andy Cooke and one or 2 others I decided to buy some Clio 172 hubs and driveshafts. Today I thought I'd look at them to see how much work is involved in fitting them.
Thankfully it looks like an easy job. GTT disks fit right on. GTT lower balljoint and track rod ends fit right in. Even the upper 2 damper bolts have the same 54mm pitch and angle as the GTT, only it's 5mm wider, so milling 2.5mm off each side should allow me to bolt them right up !
The hub swap will give the front end 5mm more track per side compared with GTT/Clio 16v hubs.
Only the caliper mounting bolt pitch is wildly different. But, the GTT carrier fits neatly between the wider spaced 172 bolt holes in such a way that it should be possible to form a bracket from a single section of flat bar !
I want to get rid of the 20mm hubcentric spacers I run currently so I'll be looking at ways of moving the hubs out a further 15mm per side. Lower balljoint is easy stuff, I'm not yet sure how I'll correct the camber. The extra track means that I can use a 20mm longer driveshaft on the N/S, which is a big improvement compared to it's ridiculously short length at the moment (There is currently only a 20mm section of shaft between the inner and outer CV boots on the N/S !!)
The 172's CV's look a load better too and does away with the poxy 3 finger setup that is forever breaking in the GTT ones.
Hoping to get it all done later this week and over the weekend.
have you decided on wishbones? R11 are the easy choice, no idea how much wider they are, maybe 5-10mm? R19/Williams are wider, but will move the wheel forwards for more camber, that may, or may not be a good thing for you. 172 are similar to Williams, but a bit wider again. You might want to consider plating over group a style to stiffen them up, although your traction bars may be enough. Have you seen the wishbone inner bearing kits? Should I ever get around to putting my car back together I may well go that route.
Just a thought, since you have the bigger hubs, and may need to adjust the damper mount for the increased track, you could get new ears welded onto the bottom of your dampers to keep the extra strength and sort the camber in one.
Before you do anything with the hubs check the taper in the bottom for any signs of rust/wear, so many are knackered and they just bite you in the bum :(