Anyone know of any good info on spraying cars, I'm trying to re-spray the back 1/4 of Fluffy, and I suck.
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Anyone know of any good info on spraying cars, I'm trying to re-spray the back 1/4 of Fluffy, and I suck.
Got an interesting DVD on it, got it from eBay... Very much for the American market? But learnt some basics.... Happy to post out for you to borrow??
If you suck would it not be better and probably cheaper to pay a pro sprayer?? It's an art and takes a long time to get good results. You will need a decent spray gun, paint,thinners/hardener, air comp.. not going to be cheap. Youtube has plenty of good guides
Any fool can spray bud. Get the prep right and you can easily right a mistake in the spray... Ie run
Prep work is the most important mate spraying is the easy part, and the buffing is how you get a good finish, I saw a car once that had drips everywhere and looked ****e but after hours of buffing and doing it in different stages with the right compounds it looked really good
totally disagree. :dearme: Anyone can paint but we can't all paint like picasso. :laugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottKinnear
Cheers everyone - I have all the gear and as they say, no idea.
Chris - that would be superb if you don't mind fella. Might be good to get some basics down. I'll pm you my address :agree::agree:
Rob - Yup I agree fella - I paid someone a couple of years ago to do mine, but tbh, I wasn't happy with the results but I couldn't complain as I only paid the chap £800. Which was all that I could spend. But like everything else I would get such a buzz if I could get this right, This is the one area which really presents a challenge to me and as Fluffy aint a looker, I don't mind having an ok job if I do it myself.
I just get confused with the different processes, I mean I have tried in celly paint and was unhappy, but never knew it was possible to buff right. I used rattle cans last week which went on ****e which I covered in clear to bring it back which didn't work. I then tried colour sanding all this back to be left with really shiny crap paintwork :laugh:
I have some Celly left over which I'm gonna try again this week in a small gun and see if I can crack this puzzle.
As I see it, give it plenty of paint then colour sand and buff back.
BTW - I wonder why there are no sections on this within the RTOC - if I get it right, I' do an idiots guide.
I respect anyone that gives things ago. But it usually takes a lots of mistakes to do it right as you will know.
I would forget the rattle cans. The celly you have will be your best best, it dries quick and is easy to work with and as others have mentioned it's all in the prep work, so take your time there,if it looks no good in primer then keep at it until you're happy before you go any further.
Good luck. post some pics up when you have finished :)
spray plenty of coats too. After you have left it to dry you can use some wet flat paper in soapy water to rub any defects back,use a block to keep it flat, then use a compound to bring the shine back :)
Cheers rob - will do buddy, I'll take some photo's as I go - I'll start tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by robw
i was told if you prep in a thong its allways a good start... pics as you go andy please....
was the rattle can paint Halfords? if it was you'll have to get it off the car totally before using proper paint on the car otherwise it will bubble up like buggery
andy matey i used to work in a paint shop, if you are using a can as said get the prep right but heres a little tip get a kettle and boil it add alittle cold water to take the edge off, then put the can in the water till rosey warm lol, make sure the nossle is free of water before you spray and then get it on the car, the heat makes it flow nicely out of the can with no splatter:laugh::laugh::laugh:, dont over load the paint but get a good flow going, any runs just flat with 1200/1500, if i was closer id do it for yas matey
good luck mick
Defo not, there are people who say they can paint and then there are painters, the trade has had a bad name for a long time with all sorts of w**kers getting involved, the amount of **** I have seen at shows makes me laugh, and some of these people have paid top money. Still gripes me now seeing pony paint workQuote:
Originally Posted by ScottKinnear
:laugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by jesus in the seat of a 5
That would not improve things.
:agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordy
Car-plan stuff - I don't know what stuff Halfords bang out, but I'll be sanding back @ 400 and applying a couple of coats of primer 1st.
:agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by R5MJH
Hi Mick - cheers for that bud, thanks for the advice chap, I'm gonna have a go with my gun next and I'm set on Celly now after a little more research.
Thong on standby.
:agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by rs250nut
There is a world of difference between the 2, I agree - and I aint paying 3k to have a 2k ****ter painted :laugh::laugh:
It would be so much easier if the 5 was worth £££
But it aint.
:mad:
WTF is that all about?
I set the regulator on my compressor @ 50psi, as soon as I start to spray it drops to 20psi no matter how high I turn this regulator up. I'm using a top feed gun (I've tried 2 different sizes, 1 full size and 1 smaller one) and have the same issue. I think I have an issue with my compressor now:mad:
The compressor is a 50ltr, 2.5hp unit. This should be more than enough for a spray gun. The main reciever is showing 100 psi, what the smeg is going on here?
Your compressor can not keep up, the output cfm is not high enough for what you need!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by TNT ANDY
Really? how many CFM's does a gun need? I would have thought a 50l 2.5hp unit would be fine. I could have bought smaller. Just got a 2hp compressor off a friend. 4cfm. This might be the issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by rs250nut
Might just run this one in tandem with mine lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by TNT ANDY
I think when looking you need over 10cfm to spray
I know, I have looked further into this and 8 cfm looks like a minimum.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigfoot
Removed the outgoing air pressure regulater and Hey presto, 50 psi and good flow. Got 7 coats on ok, looks like ****, but a good colour sanding session should bring it back ok. I don't think I'll change my day joblol
Add a little washing up liquid into the bucket before colour sanding and let the wet and dry soak for a while. Also keep checking the sandpaper for clogging and use fresh water regularly to clean away the panel your sanding. Also be careful on any edges as the paint will be thinner here. Get some pics up.
:agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Nad-5GTT
How long should I leave it before starting to sand?
Hours ?
Days?
Weeks?
I'm using Cellulose.
I'd prob leave it a few days. But I will add I'm in no way an expert just an above average diyer:D so I could be wrong. If you've got orange peel finish then a squeegee is good to have because it will highlight any low spots that need sanding out.
Yeh, I was amazed at how well that works on the vids I've been watching. Thanks for the tips. :agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Nad-5GTT
Cellulose dries quick but I would leave it 24 hours. I have though wet flatted before after a few hours with no problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by TNT ANDY