Me window won't go up!

Damn... was trying to sort out one problem, windows down as it was so hot! Went to put them back up and drivers side, started moving then... nothing :scared: it's stuck just over half way up. Trying pulling it up with all my weedy might but couldn't budge it.

Checked it the fuse, it's fine... swapped it over with the passenger one which is working fine just in case.

My car's currently battling against the wind with a windscreen protector shoved in the door, not a good look :ashamed:

Not sure where to go from here, motor or something?

I hope it's just coincidence but before this happened I was trying to bypass the dimmer with some crocodile clips (it didn't work...) but obviously I managed to get it half way up after doing that anyway, hmm... my Haynes manual is at work so I'll look through that in the morning but any help much appreciated! Really need to get this one sorted asap as my insurance runs out tomorrow :cartman:

check the runners and greese them up laddy :) lol anything will do lube away see if they budge... door card out etc first mind ;)

Yeh could be the runners, this happend to mine before wen it was chilly weather and my window got stuck all the way down! Took the door card off and lifted the window up while holding the button, I havnt greaced the runners I just avoid opening the window lol, I think it could be the motor aswell I think mine needs one because it goes slug pace!

mine too... my drivers side used to work (very slowly) on saturday when i bought it but now its just stuck up lol

**** it who needs windows i've got air con, oh wait... :scratch:

sometimes my drivers one gets stuck.. then i give it a good thump and it works again :P

I have just repaired such problems on my friends GTT. On both side the connector which goes to the motor caused the problem. There was connection but not good enough.
I gave them a good clean and made them tighter. Since than they are working fine.

As peeps have previously said it's normally a bad conenction to the motor but it could also be a knackered motor as it sounds like mine at the mo, the only way mine goes up is if I hold the up button down at the same time I am kind of pulling the window up by hand, looks pretty pikey but sourcing a decent window motor is hard, I have sourced 5 or 6 motors now and none any good my current one is the best:eek:

Thanks guys... one more question before I get home, I'm going to need to open the door to take the card off aren't I!?

:scared: as the way it's parked up atm I basically can't open the door.

Is it easy to locate once it's off?

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

mine was slow then stuck when i bought it the other day take the door card off grease up the arm give it a good lathering. but the rubber seals all the way round will be holding it real tight. give them a good coat with something silicone spray wax cleaning studd vynil rubbercare etc to get them nice and slidy mine works fine now.

also clean connection while you have the door card off its a piece of cake matey just go steady door cards can be fragile sometimes.

campus winders ftw!!

campus winders here to :)

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Originally Posted by philg

campus winders here to :)

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+1 :agree:

Buy new ones.

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Originally Posted by phase i 16 v turbo

Buy new ones.

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have you tested that load you have yet m8

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Originally Posted by Josie172cup

have you tested that load you have yet m8

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No GTNutter started but soon moved onto other items in the unit. Will try and get some tested over the weeked. If you are local you are welcome to pop in and help.:agree:

While you've got your multimeter set to voltage, check the voltage on the motor terminals while you're pressing the 'up' button. Should stay near the +12v. If it drops to 8V or 6, then that's too low to drive the motor and bad connection is your problem.

Mine was like this. But it wasn't just the motor connections. There are more of them under the grey plastic to the right of the driver footwell. And more of the everywhere really. Corroded switch connections, key barrel, everywhere.

The motor draws quite bit of current and the long and windy way the wires go the the motors through so may poor connection is :crap: really.

One fix I've used in other areas of the 5GTT is to fit a new local relay. In this case near the motor in the door, and run a new current carrying wire to that from the battery via a new fuse. The existing wire and switch will drive the relay coil as there's very small current so the voltage does drop too low to operate it.

Maplin used to sell, and may still, a 12V 40 Amp automotive relay for a couple of quid.

Hi I took the door card off today and had a look at the motor, I presume it's this that needs testing...

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/DSC01146.jpg

Took the connector off to test the voltage and its reading just over 11v, should be fine right?

I have tried so hard to manually force the window up, I've free'd it about an inch or so, but it just won't go... anymore straining from me and I think I'd crap myself. I lubed up the runners, take it this one is the main one to be concentrating on...

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/DSC01147.jpg

I'm about as stuck as my window now, anything else to try!? Does this look right to you...

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/DSC01148.jpg

Is the voltage across your battery 11V?

That's too low.

Anyway, with the probe showing 11V at the window motor, press the window 'up' switch and see what the voltage drops to.

I couldn't remember whether that voltage was whilst I was pressing it or not, so just went out to try again. Now, without pressing the button, the voltage is zero.

When pressing it it started off around 6.5v and basically kept (very slowly) going down, it got to about 5.5v then I just stopped :crap:

I checked my battery and as I said I think it's dying atm, the voltage across that was only 7.7v. I'm gonna have to get a trickle charger as the car is going to be parked up for over a month.

Voltage across the battery was 7.7V? :eek: That's not right.

Would it go down if the battery was almost dead? I'm not sure the way it works really... also do you have to earth it when checking the voltage or do you literally just -/+ it?

Maybe it says minus on the battery but in reality there is no minus voltage. Just +12 and Earth / chassis.

The Earth on the battery is joined directly to the chassis.

You need more than a trickle charge on that if it's 7.7V.

That could take a few days at a full charge current to recover.

By that I mean they tend to start at maybe 8 amps then drop at the voltage rises to about 3 amps then down to 1 amp.

Putting a very much higher charge current in can damage the plates on a very discharged batter like yours would appear to be.

Okay I'll add a new battery to my ever increasing list lol. However, this ultimately cannot be an issue with the windows, as the passenger side is moving up and just fine :(

Just an update... I'm off on holiday in the early hours so dropped the car off at the garage for them to look at a few things whilst I'm away. For the 50th time I thought "I'll just try the window one more time" and it went up! Totally random but way-hey :) it'll probably happen again though I guess.