I need to set the tappets on the gfs ka, i have a set of feeler gauges, but i have no idea how to do them, anybody care to explain ?
Printable View
I need to set the tappets on the gfs ka, i have a set of feeler gauges, but i have no idea how to do them, anybody care to explain ?
What age is the KA? Has it got the Zetec engine in or the fail safe push rod?
only ever seen hydraulic lifters on them....non adjustable.
what year, engine is it....?????
all ka's i have ever known all get tappy with age. have cured a few though with a good oil change.
I thought the older type engine i.e. the ones found in the old MK2 fiesta were adjustable?
They are, if its a small engined early Ka it'll be the old pushrod engine in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Hebden
the early 1.3 endura pushrod engine has adjustable tappets
the later 1.2 and 1.4 zetec is hydraulic.
yea its the 1,3 engine so push rod and adjustable tappets
The later KA's are 1.3 8v Duratec, or 1.6 in the Sport or Street ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by car.crash
ooops sorry, my error :)Quote:
Originally Posted by scratcher
Haha, I'm a bit of a geek with the girly cars :ashamed:
Well i found this snippet of info,
'The inlet valve clearance should be set to be 0·20mm and the exhaust valve to be 0·50mm (with the exception of some of the very early Endura-E, which has an exhaust valve clearance of 0·30mm).'
however ive never set tappets before, not a clue wont you rock the car and crazy stuff :s
Quote:
Originally Posted by djinuk
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Haynes-manual-...1%7C240%3A1318
i think its time to invest
haha , yes maybe man, to be honest though its just a damn work horse, n i said from the beginning i didnt wana have to work on it at all :( ah well .. grr fords! rusty noisy slow grr
The principal for setting tappets is the same for any engine, if you've got a haynes for the 5 use that principal but for the correct distances
Thank you :D ill look at doing it this weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Hebden
ok i have just been reading on doing this in my r5 haynes manual..
only thing im unsure of is, that you have 8 valves, starting at the flywheel (right hand side) and the closest to the flywheel is no1 Exhaust valve, and im guessing next to that is no2 Inlet Valve , and so on, is this correct ? and is it always the same on all engines in the fact that the first is the eghaust and the 2nd is the inlet.
Only other thing is that my feeler gauges only go up to 0.30 :S, should i hold the 0.20 and the 0.30 together to give me the 0.50 measurement required for the exhaust measurement
Think it goes exhaust, inlet ,exhaust, inlet, inlet, exhaust, inlet exhaust.Quote:
Originally Posted by djinuk
ah damn, now thts baffled me :P
The centre two are the both inlets because if it was exhaust, inlet all the way it would be inbalanced. e.g. you would have an exhaust valve at the flywheel end and an inlet at the timing chain end.;)
ahh i see i see, is that goings to be the same then for all 8 valve cars
yes 99.99999%, bound to be some nutter out there whose made an engine differently. and the leyland a series engine is not quite the same as it uses a common port system where 2 inlets are fed from the same intake.
If I remember rightly the endura lump doesn't pair the valves, its in ex in ex all the way(or vice-versa). Anyway, just look at the casting, you'll be able to see which port goes to which valve.
yeah, I remember experimenting with 120ron prostock fuel with 9.2:1 c/r and a lot of boost, it worked ok. in later years I found the type of fuel to be more important than I first thought, the prostock was pretty horrid stuff, using a good octane boost in pump fuel worked a lot better. the prostock felt really flat off boost, the octane booster was not noticible other than for it supressing det and worked much better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Jim Racing
Are you sure that's the right reply...:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoff
The trouble with high lead fuels like that is they burn REALLY slowly and they aren't really meant to do much other than have huge det resistance, so, as I'm sure you found, they don't start well either. 9.2 wouldn't have been working it nearly hard enough to be worthwhile (unless you were running about 50psi+), I wasn't exaggerating with the 11:1 comment. Not sure how the engine would take it (mechanically) though!!!
Whoops, I ment to quote your post in the other thread, its been a long day :laugh:
ur also better off with a tapered set of feeler blades as for the gt because of wear! a broad type wont let u adjust it right.those particular engines are very rattely anyway.:(
Yea your right m8 forgot its a crossflow thinking of the old kent engine before it went xflow.just me typing before thinking and sorry for confusing ya:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Jim Racing