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View Full Version : Its alive, couple of questions.



c5 swh
26-07-2009, 20:49
First of all i would like to say a big thank you to everyone on here who as replyed to my posts and helped me out when ive been stuck.

This is the first rebuild ive ever attempeted im no mechanic but with a hayes manual, RTOC and a understanding missis ive got there.

Started like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/shanehandley/SL701769.jpg

went to this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/shanehandley/SL702111.jpg

And finally ended up like this.. ( the induction kit is on temp until i can sort piping out!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/shanehandley/SL702496.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/shanehandley/SL702497.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/shanehandley/SL702498.jpg

started it for the first time today. fired straight up and idled nicely.

Just got a couple of questions.

When started up the oil pressure light wouldnt go out:eek: Ive got a mechaniacl pressure guage and that was reading around the 50psi mark so im guessing its ok?

Could it be the wiring and earths as the oil pressure sender on dash isnt working and oil level is not working. I also dont think the tempreture guage is either? Could it be a bad earth if so is there anyway i can a extra earth to wiring loom? What else could it be?

Also whats the best way to bleed the cooling system?

And finally what is the best way to run in the engine and after how many miles do i change oil and filters etc.

many thyanks again

Shane

Nick k
26-07-2009, 21:48
The oil pressure switch has 2 wires on it and so does the oil level switch, Both are orange/brown. Try swapping then around, Does the oil level work? if so then the oil level wires are correct( Oil level switch is in the sump next to oil return pipe from turbo incase u were wondering ) The pressure switch may be stuck if the light is not going out, try giving it a tap when the engine is running if you can get to it!!.

Running in?? up to you really. some do 500 miles, other 1000 miles then oil change, ask scoff or colin and see what they say?

I bleed the system with the expansion bottle up in the air. fill system and have both bleed nipples open ( on rad hose and hose to the swirl pot ) when fluid comes out of rad hose close it and then the same with swirl pot hose. start engine and keep half a eye on the temp gauge ( which is your case is broken) 2 wires on water pump to check! when thermostat opens (if it fitted) open each bleed nipple and release and trapped air. when happy re-locate expansion bottle back in hold. Bob's your uncle.

If you touch the temp gauge wires on the engine block ( earth ) 1 should make the red light come on and the other will make the gauge go full scale deflection ( to the top )

Hope this helps.

gtmatt
26-07-2009, 22:03
love the build ,you can only put the wires on one way round as the spades are different ,but your answer is above i used mineral oil to run in my engine in.

What did you use to paint your block ??:):)

James5
26-07-2009, 22:11
Congrats on finally getting it running matey, with ref to the oil pressure and oil level switch it is a case of try and see what works out by swapping them around if nothing I would be thinking knackered sensors and new required.

To see what wire does what it is prob best to pull out the old haynes again along with a multimeter (continuity setting) and see what wire is suppose to be on each one from the main loom connection.

Arrows
26-07-2009, 22:17
The orange wire is the positive connection and the other will be the earth.

raj
26-07-2009, 22:50
What did you use to paint your block ??:):)

hmm that colour looks like the same/similar as whats on my rebuild no3 (http://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=30) i used por15 chevy orange on mine :)

JRP
26-07-2009, 23:01
hmm that colour looks like the same/similar as whats on my rebuild no3 (http://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=30) i used por15 chevy orange on mine :)

gonna say looks like por 15 the lick aiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii

Bommer
27-07-2009, 11:19
i got told of scoff change the oil after you have give it a run i did mine after about 5 miles its to get rid of all the crap if any after rebuild

Spooky
27-07-2009, 11:34
i got told of scoff change the oil after you have give it a run i did mine after about 5 miles its to get rid of all the crap if any after rebuild

id run it for a 5mins then drop the oil :)

after the initial test run, change the filter/oil and retorque the head bolts.

running in - first few hundred miles don't give it death but work the engine through the revs using the engine to slow the car as much as poss...after say 500 miles, drop the oil/filter...reset valve clearances and do another 500 miles of slightly more aggressive driving...should work a treat :cooter:

one thing though and i'm sure other people will agree, it will take a few thousand miles for the engine to properly 'loosen' up as you will have no doubt driven it under different conditions/loads allowing to bed in sufficently.

or you can rape it from the off...:devil:...which i dont agree with but seems to be very affective :D

id imagine the more the oil is changed before the running in period after a rebuild the better it is for the engine.

after that, regular oil/filter changes will do nothing but good :)

then again, ive only ever built new engines where the engine is ran upto 10-12.5k miles before the first oil/filter change :D

c5 swh
27-07-2009, 16:31
Right had another look at things today,

The temp guage works but the red warning light stays permantly on even when the water is cold.

The oil pressure light is staying on even though ive got good oil pressure. Also the oil level is now working but the lighting behind it is constantly on?

Also the rad fan is not kicking in i think its because of a airlock, but how can i check the fan is working?

Also ive got a double capacity rad but as anybody had difficulties routing the waterpipe from waterpump to bottom of rad mines very tight.

any help much apprecaited

IANMM
27-07-2009, 18:45
OE clocks are about as reliable as the govermant.....if your aftermarket guages are reading well i wouldnt loose any sleep over it.......one thing i would do is try another set of clocks just to see.....

also i have bleed nearly every system by "blowing" all the air out with my lips......lift open nipples then blow......

IANMM
27-07-2009, 18:48
and hard wire your fan or bridge your thermostat to see if its that first.....

c5 swh
29-07-2009, 17:10
Fixed the fan was a dodgy relay:agree: