header tank location

[TNT ANDY]

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=712

Having a look at my header tank for my CC, if I bleed this could I stil have a problem with air in the system.

AS

[Markey Mark (BD)]

Is that the tank in the scuttle area?

[RICHIE]

i had my header tank on my charge cooler down by the pass headlight never had any issues bleeding it just topped it up as it was running untill i had a constant flow with no air bubbles

[TNT ANDY]

Is that the tank in the scuttle area?


Yes that's the one.

[TNT ANDY]

i had my header tank on my charge cooler down by the pass headlight never had any issues bleeding it just topped it up as it was running untill i had a constant flow with no air bubbles

I know what Andy cook was saying in your other tread, you may have air in it that you are unaware of! I figuered that If I bled all the air out of the charge cooler by turning it so that the outlets where both pointing upwards and sucking through the cooler until all the air stopped coming out then that should be that? I'm not sure now that Andy thought this may be a poor design. You've got to respect his point of view.

[Andrew Cooke]

the way I see it is you will always have air in the system, you need something to compress when the water heats up and expands. That air will always end up trapped in the high points of the system.

At the very least you need to me able to lift the reservoir up higher that the rest of the system when bleeding, and I'd have a small bleed screw in the top of the CC. I wouldn't like to say how long the top of the CC will remain free of air, but at least you have a simple way of letting the air out.

[Alastair]

I would keep the outlets at the top or as high as possible, and like Andy says keep the header tank as high as you can. You might benefit from some insulation on there too, and your hoses... It maybe worth considering how/whereyou have routed them too.

I do like the short pipe run to the carb though, I had problems securing the silicone elboW to the carb even with mikalor clamps, and have had to get a collar made up (OE carb plate with some tube welded on and a swage for grip).

How big is your CC rad? Have you considered using 2 plumbed in series?

[Alastair]

Additionally, you might have trouble getting your FPR to fuel right if you are taking the reference signal from the carb tapping, I had to Make a take off from my ally pipe just before the carb top to take a reference line to the FPR. I'll post a pic of the carb collar Boris made me later when I get to my PC to make my last post a bit clearer.

Good luck with the rest ofthe project mate, with mapped ignition and a carb I'll be very interested in what you can squeeze out of it! :agree:

[TNT ANDY]

Cheers chaps - food for thought indeed, I will have a think of ways around this.

My take off point for my FPR is as standard if I'm correct. Have you seen something else?

[TNT ANDY]

I would keep the outlets at the top or as high as possible, and like Andy says keep the header tank as high as you can. You might benefit from some insulation on there too, and your hoses... It maybe worth considering how/whereyou have routed them too.

I do like the short pipe run to the carb though, I had problems securing the silicone elboW to the carb even with mikalor clamps, and have had to get a collar made up (OE carb plate with some tube welded on and a swage for grip).

How big is your CC rad? Have you considered using 2 plumbed in series?


Hi Alistair - to answer a couple of questions - I was concerned about the connection onto the carb and was going to suck it and see, I only plan for 18psi. The Pre rad is huge about 450 x 150.

The take off point is not as standard as stated. It is still from above the throttle position, just taken from round the other side. I still don't know if this will make a great deal of difference.:confused:

[Alastair]

Hi Alistair - to answer a couple of questions - I was concerned about the connection onto the carb and was going to suck it and see, I only plan for 18psi. The Pre rad is huge about 450 x 150.

The take off point is not as standard as stated. It is still from above the throttle position, just taken from round the other side. I still don't know if this will make a great deal of difference.:confused:

lol 18 psi and a load of advance will be v rapid:laugh: I had snags blowing boost hoses off at a lot less than that!

I know the one you mean on the carb, i think you may have snags with it, if i was you i would avoid hassle later on and take a reference from the top. You could always JB weld a tapping/tube to the outlet side of the CC, cheap and easy to do.:coffee:

[TNT ANDY]

lol 18 psi and a load of advance will be v rapid:laugh: I had snags blowing boost hoses off at a lot less than that!

I know the one you mean on the carb, i think you may have snags with it, if i was you i would avoid hassle later on and take a reference from the top. You could always JB weld a tapping/tube to the outlet side of the CC, cheap and easy to do.:coffee:

It would be no big deal to move it to the top, If there is a problem there then that's what I'll do - thanks for the heads up.

Hopefully the weight of all that water (once all the air has been bled off) will hold me charge cooler down.:D

Hopefully a mate of TNT Hammond will be able to weld a bleed valve into the top of the CC, I'll have to wait and see, Then I'll be able to see how much air gets trapped up there and possibly relocate something if it's that bad. I really like the location it is in at the mo, should be very reactive.



AS