View Full Version : Hi new and need help
First post!
Hi,
Just joined glad to be a member and have some support with the 5.
I do have a problem and its putting me away in the head so bad I want to sign myself in.(I need help)
The car is a full rebuild every thing (In and out) Ive had it for years it been in the family for 10+ years not moving just parked up.
The last thing I had to do is put in a rad and oil cooler done--ooh no.
Top hose has new thermo installew blew into water bottle bled both valves. It wont open its gets over have and stays shut then I found the matrix hoses were empty so I did not fill system right. Need to fill right
The worst it the fan switch new low temp one wont come on at all. Heres what I have tested.
The lead into the fan switch gets 12v
when crossed the relay clicks and power lead for fan has 12v running to it.
when I connect it to the fan lead nothing the power level gone.
I run the fan direct from the battery it works. For some reason when i join the leads and try to run fan constant nothing (fuses ok) Altanator new Any one help
Thanks
Mike
Test the thermostat by dropping it a bowl of boiling water. Watch it open. If it stays closed its fecked.
Think thats a start anyway., Ive ran 5s without them in anyway so its a temporary fix to just remove it.
:coffee: awaits verbal slapping from Sparkie and Grier. (the crimebusters of the sea, lol)
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hi,
Thanks for the reply Droped it in opens fine and closes when cooling. I think I had a air lock i the heater matrix having problems filling the system up.
Thanks
Mike
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hi,
Thanks for the reply Droped it in opens fine and closes when cooling. I think I had a air lock i the heater matrix having problems filling the system up.
Thanks
Mike
Are you 100 percent sure you got the water hoses on in the right place??
Some people hold the header tank in the air or summat, you know when filling it up ?
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hi,
I got them in the right place but I dont lift it up to fill I will drain and try again. The drain plug is at the bottom of the pump? When I changed the rad I just took of the bottom hose what a mess.
Thanks
Mike
If its been stood for an age maybe get that rad in the shower wiv ya mate give it a good flush out.
Get the header tank as high as you can...
Remove the bleed nipples on the 2 water hoses...
Keep filling the system with water until you have a constant dribble/run of water through each bleeding location...
I usually close the bleed screw on the pipe on the water pump side first then wait it out for the bigger radiator pipe...
Put the header tank back in place after both bleed screws are closed up and check the level at header tank...no higher than max.
Start the car up, heater fan on max and on highest heat setting.
Wait till the fan cuts in a few times, let it cool down and check the water level again.
i would check for air locks presuming the temp switch on the rad is a working one. easy enough to test bridge the connector that plugs into the rad by using a piece of wire.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hi,
Thanks for that I will flush and refill I will also take off inercooler pipes to get height when filling. I still cant get the rad fan to work
Thanks
Mike
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hi,
Thanks for that I will flush and refill I will also take off inercooler pipes to get height when filling. I still cant get the rad fan to work
Thanks
Mike
did you bridge the connector to see if it works on the oe loom
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hi RICHIE,
Tried it stick a wire in the relay clicks but fan does no move I have also unpluged fan tested altanator side with meter when I put wire in the relay clicks and meter shows 12v when I plug it bak into fan do the same again I test no voltage (Must engine be running first)
Thanks
Mike
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hi RICHIE,
Tried it stick a wire in the relay clicks but fan does no move I have also unpluged fan tested altanator side with meter when I put wire in the relay clicks and meter shows 12v when I plug it bak into fan do the same again I test no voltage (Must engine be running first)
Thanks
Mike
im not on about bridging the relay start with the connector that plugs to the temp switch on the rad then work your way back its a process of elimination
Well, give that a go.
The fan may not be cutting in due to a massive airlock.
If you bridge the fan switch like Rich says, it may point towards that.
But like I've just said, an airlock will also affect the operation of the fan switch, its designed to work in water not air.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hi,
I ment the temp switch when I do this the relay clicks so its working ok Also 12v goes to the fan plug the circit seems ok but when pluged into fan its dead. I wont read any thing on meter. Fan works when powered off the battery.
Mike
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hi,
I ment the temp switch when I do this the relay clicks so its working ok Also 12v goes to the fan plug the circit seems ok but when pluged into fan its dead. I wont read any thing on meter. Fan works when powered off the battery.
Mike
im presuming you have tried another relay if you have the perc fan in situ try that one or the horn relay(still bridging the the temp sender connector)
Where the Hell is Balymena??
Where the Hell is Balymena??
It's in County Antrim Northern Ireland which probably aint the best place to have a 'performance car' as they have near enough the most expensive insurance in the world:crap:
michael tierney
04-07-2009, 23:21
the relay as far as i can remember is 5 pin and it feeds either the anti perc fan or the main rad fan at any one time,i'd deffinitly try a new one for starters.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
All that testing and it was a bad earth. Sorted now thanks forthe help.
Next thing is set up the carb After I get her running
Cheers Mike
might sound daft but you have got the thermostat in the right way round? probe into the water pump!!
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