View Full Version : ??????? puzzled
right had a thread up here a while ago TITLE Turbo. basicaly had a split on my oil feed to my turbo changed the part shown below
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=7019
started having problems with my turbo as it wasnt boostin to wot is was set at 15psi
wasnt gettin anythin in 1st got to 10 psi in 2nd 3rd and so on.
Had one of my mates look at it he said to make sure the banjo connector bolt was lined up correctly as there is a hole goin through it. Done that today and went for a drive to see not the case, if anythin at idle the boost looks better sits were it used too but only gettin 5 psi now. i am gettin more puzzled :scratch: by this as it looks to me lyk a leak. Wot is the best way to look for a vaccum leak??????
please can some1 shed some of the vast nowledge on this problem as it is killin me not bein able to drive my beloved car
thanx
that is the worse picture in the world mate :)
visually check the pipes for splits you can take them off and blow down them also but you can usually see them....it could be a faulty actuator
what turbo you got? have you got a after market boost gauge? if so where is it plumed in? and get some better piccys up :)
visually check the pipes for splits you can take them off and blow down them also but you can usually see them....it could be a faulty actuator
what turbo you got? have you got a after market boost gauge? if so where is it plumed in? and get some better piccys up :)
will get a better pic up lol sorry hahaha, have a t25 and will have to have a look and see were the guage is plumed from.
I was advised to check the turbo out and see if there was any play in the shaft and there wasnt any at all
The banjo bolt/connector doesn't need to be lined up at all, i wouldn't listen to your mates advice...
The turbo oil feed should go up almost parallel with the block, the o.e feed bolts to the lifting eye on the head. Repositioning that would take the nasty kink out of your oil feed pipe.
Id be checking for leaks in the boost cct, Oil feed has nothing to do with your boost loss.
check everything is tight...all nuts and bolts on turbo...exhaust...manifold etc
The turbo oil feed should go up almost parallel with the block, the o.e feed bolts to the lifting eye on the head. Repositioning that would take the nasty kink out of your oil feed pipe.
Id be checking for leaks in the boost cct, Oil feed has nothing to do with your boost loss.[/quote]
right but could the turbo not be nakered if it had no oil hense the boost loss???? i am new to all this so still learning:ashamed:
just perchased a load of silicone vacum hose so i can renue everythin and i now there shouldnt be any leaks.
checked everythin is tight i havent touched any of the boost cct apart from once wen i had to take off my dumpvalve as there was a hole in the vacum hose for it. part from that everythin is as it was before i changed the bolt
well a split in your dump valve would cause boost loss.....take them off and out of the equation while your trying to find your problem....and if your turbo isn't smoking and there is no play in the shaft IMO its seems ok.....it sounds like something simple mate
Did you block up the vacuum pipe off the dumpvalve? Check the intercooler/carb top for leaks.
The turbo will have oil flow regardless where the banjo bolt is positioned, as the oil goes around a channel in the banjo fitting.
there is a tiny amount of dark smoke wen ya rev but nothin lyk wot i have seen out of these things :laugh:, the dumpvalve has been removed now had Mr 5 off here come sort it out for me that time.
yeah it probably is somethin real simple just really wanna find it.
Did you block up the vacuum pipe off the dumpvalve? Check the intercooler/carb top for leaks.
The turbo will have oil flow regardless where the banjo bolt is positioned, as the oil goes around a channel in the banjo fitting.
ahhhh right i see, wot i done to block of the dumpvalve fitted the bung in the intercooler side and on the t-piece i put some cling film over the end rapped it is tape than some more cling film and tape
did you just say cling film...?????:eek:
That sounds pikey:D Get a bolt/screw in the pipe & clip it in place, that will most likely sort it.
did you just say cling film...?????:eek:
yeah why????:scratch:
cant breath through it but i had this problem before i blocked it up, there is a screw tie rapped in the end of the tubin the cling film is rapped round that
get a picture up of what you have done mate.....just remember we dont breath out at 15psi do we :)
right lol i see :laugh:
will go get some pics of the srew and the cling film lol
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=7224
the bung and the oil feed pipe is alot better then it was
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=7226
the t-piece that my boost guage and dumpvale r fed off, i know it is a bad pic sorry took off the cling film and that is the screw.
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=7225
Just noticed this will be gettin replaced tommorrow
thanx for all this help
bung looks ok.......replace the T Piece setup and the cracked pipe needs changing for sure :)
can get t-pieces of ebay will sort that out should have my tubing by tommorrow too hopefully that might be it lol
Andrew Cooke
30-06-2009, 18:25
you got a cracking selection of pipes, joints, and plumbing there.
TrixNFlix
30-06-2009, 18:37
I'm loving the copper pipe t piece. :)
I'm loving the copper pipe t piece. :)
Next time i have a problem, ill call the plumber......:wasntme:
hahaha was all on the car wen i bought it lol :)
does any1 now the size hose for the rotten pipe i have?????
changed the weathered pipe gonna take it for a test drive later fingers crossed.
am i killin the turbo or the engine if i do run it with the same problem but just keep it out of turbo range????
UNICRONICUS
02-07-2009, 21:38
I would replace all vacuum pipes with 4-6mm internal diameter silicone tubing and secure each end to where the connect to with small cable ties. Replace any suspect hose, especially leaky/cracked oil pipes because this will cause problems to the engine/turbo if they break! As has been mentioned already, get rid of the shady t-section, replace with a length of silicon tubing from the carb base to the AEI unit (do the cup mod perhaps?). Check all main boost pipes (from turbo to intercooler, intercooler to carb) for splits, loose jubilee clips etc... Check the carb top for leaks as well, this should be securely fixed to the top of the carb. Check the rod on the actuator to the turbo is still attached as well.
P.S. Can you take a decent high res pic of your engine bay from a few angles to show the whole setup? Then we can zoom in on things of particular interest. :)
I would replace all vacuum pipes with 4-6mm internal diameter silicone tubing and secure each end to where the connect to with small cable ties. Replace any suspect hose, especially leaky/cracked oil pipes because this will cause problems to the engine/turbo if they break! As has been mentioned already, get rid of the shady t-section, replace with a length of silicon tubing from the carb base to the AEI unit (do the cup mod perhaps?). Check all main boost pipes (from turbo to intercooler, intercooler to carb) for splits, loose jubilee clips etc... Check the carb top for leaks as well, this should be securely fixed to the top of the carb. Check the rod on the actuator to the turbo is still attached as well.
P.S. Can you take a decent high res pic of your engine bay from a few angles to show the whole setup? Then we can zoom in on things of particular interest. :)
thanx for the help mate cheers, really is gettin to me now. will change everythin tomoz, and will get some good pics up to so ya can have a look
could the actuator be fuked??????
thanx again
UNICRONICUS
03-07-2009, 12:28
could the actuator be fuked??????
thanx again
It's a possibility, maybe the diaphragm is split... Can you pull on the actuator rod with disconnected from the turbo and see if it moves easily or not? This won't tell you if the diaphragm is buggered though but if it's really easy to pull back then maybe it needs adjusting/tightening but be careful with this , only do it up by half a turn and test it out afterwards. Obviously do this after checking and replacing any damaged hoses.
It's a possibility, maybe the diaphragm is split... Can you pull on the actuator rod with disconnected from the turbo and see if it moves easily or not? This won't tell you if the diaphragm is buggered though but if it's really easy to pull back then maybe it needs adjusting/tightening but be careful with this , only do it up by half a turn and test it out afterwards. Obviously do this after checking and replacing any damaged hoses.
will have a look wen the weather picks up a little lol
the pipe that i replaced that leads to a allen key bolt then itleads to the actuator that is why i asked if it could be the actuator but anythin is better then my turbo bein buggered haha.
got a picture that i will post of my engine bay dunno if it is anny good but if not will take another one wen it stops raining :)
Is your turbo a tomcat t25? Looks like one in the pic. Have you blanked off the original dumpvalve on the comp housing....
I doubt the diaphragm is split in the actuator, that would make the boost go up not down due to no control.
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.php?albumid=612&pictureid=6416
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.php?albumid=667&pictureid=7240
i have changed some of the water hoses over but as it stands apart from the new hose i put on yesterday it is the same as the picture above. I know about the plumbing and really want to sort this all out so it looks alot smarter in there
thanx for looking :)
Is your turbo a tomcat t25? Looks like one in the pic. Have you blanked off the original dumpvalve on the comp housing....
I doubt the diaphragm is split in the actuator, that would make the boost go up not down due to no control.
yeah it is a t25, on the comp housing???? will have to have a look
cant move the actuator rod at all, so the actuator is fine???????
thanx for all this help lads all a learning curve for me :):)
sorted now, replaced all the boost pipes and fitted a new dumpvalve and working as normal again thank god haha, now just gotta fit the new front mount intercooler hmmmmmmm how hard is it can any1 shed any light on there own experience's???????
and just wanna say thank you for all the help i have recieved thanx guys
FMIC are not that bad mate its just your pipe run you have to sort out....search the site there are loads of different options
As said previously mounting the fmic is easy it's the pipe run just done one myself but grill mounted instead there is couple a couple of pics on my profile I also had to change the crank pulley and alt belt to campus versions to give some more space.
there is a bolt missing out your carb top. also how is your breather system plumbed in were does that pipe go to out of the breather pot and goes somewere near the turbo.
connects with my air filter pipe, i know it needs alot of work but slowly gettin round to sorting it out haha. does any1 now wot i should be doin with all this plumbing????
does any1 now were i can get a set?????? just ordered some o rings cause mine is a bit worn :)
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