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Spooky
14-06-2009, 15:28
Over the last couple of days I've changed my radiator, everything is plumbed in, no leaks, 'no air' in the system...

Anyhow...

Before I changed the radiator, the fan and the cooling system itself was spot on until yesterday.

I fired the car up, let it get warm/hot, the needle approached the half way to 2/3 mark where I would usually expect the fan to cut in but it didn't. I let it cool down, rebled it again and ran the car upto temp until the fan came in...but it didn't.

I have missed the temp switch out by bridging the connection and the fan still won't come on. I have checked the switch coupler with the car ignition on/mulitmeter and found NO power at the switch. Having seen that, I tried another relay and still the same effect.

Now, I'm not getting power to the switch hence me thinking I have a broken circuit somewhere around there. To see if the fan itself is duff or not, can I stab with a live direct from the battery ?

What is the best way to go from here ?

Junglist
14-06-2009, 15:54
i had this problem once ,
i put wires straight from a spare battery to the fan and it worked ,,
the problem turned out to be a wire that had snapped at the alternator where the fan was wired up to, i dont know if it is supposed to be wired up to the alt but mine is , fixed the wire and worked fine.
worth having a look

Markey Mark (BD)
14-06-2009, 15:55
Check if the relay ahs a good power supply and a good earth mate, could have a bad connection there.

Yes you can run a live direct to the fan just to make sure thats working

Spooky
14-06-2009, 16:07
Yea the fan has been rewired a bit because when Ricardo had the car he set fire to it :cooter: :laugh:

No, in all seriousness, the rewiring isnt a shoddy job lol

On the relay, what does what dude ?

Just off to check the fan itself...2 mins...

Spooky
14-06-2009, 16:16
With a direct battery feed, the rad fan will work :agree:

I need to know what cable does what around that area so I can track down the problem :)

Its pointing to towards a broken circuit me thinks.

Spooky
14-06-2009, 17:28
Right this is what I see...

alt +ve to relay...relay to fan motor...fan motor to rad switch...rad switch to relay...

the relay is earthed behind the headlight, just cleaned the area up some more.

the fan switch is earthing to red/green wire into the main eng harness loom just beneath the rad.

is that correct ?

I have power at the relay but not from the relay to the fan motor...

Spooky
14-06-2009, 18:14
Right, I've got round it...

I'm going run the relay via the rad switch, using pins 1 and 3 which will both go to the battery via a fuse.

I've just tried this with the fan switch bridged so I imagine it will work when the car is running...I hope :D

A 20 amp rated fuse should be fine...again...I hope :laugh:

I will update this tomorrow when I will get myself an inline fuse holder :smokin:

Spooky
15-06-2009, 10:39
Before I attach the inline fuse and start the car up...is what I've described in my previous post a good idea ?

:)

Spooky
15-06-2009, 11:50
Bump!

:d

Big Steve - Raider
15-06-2009, 12:22
Correct me if i'm wrong but are you running a wire directly from the +VE side of the battery, through the Temp Switch in the water pump then to a relay which goes to the battery???

The Purpose of the relay is to switch a high current supply with a low current signal i.e. a dashboard switch only runs at 5 amps but it switches the relay which controls 25 amps for example.

The correct way of wiring up the Rad Fan is as the drawing attached to the bottom of this post:

SIMPLES :D

phase i 16 v turbo
15-06-2009, 12:35
Take the positive and earth from the alternator, less length of wire runs needed but use the pin out as in the diagram kindly provided.

Big Steve - Raider
15-06-2009, 12:37
Take the positive and earth from the alternator, less length of wire runs needed but use the pin out as in the diagram kindly provided.

Good idea! :niceone:

Spooky
15-06-2009, 13:04
Steve, from your diagram, my SWITCH supply will come from the battery via the alternator...so if you started at the top of that diagram, I would be seeing a 20a fuse which would then split into pin 30 then into the fan switch...

I'm doing what your saying but slightly different'ish :wasntme: