View Full Version : Gay Fecked Tubular Manifold
I bought this manifold from K-TEC about 3.5 years ago, it was on my last 5 before I broke it, and it's spent the last 2 years in my garage. It's covered about 3 thousand miles. I dug it out a couple of weeks ago with the intention of flogging it on ebay. To me horror on closer inspection I found the welds around the flange which attaches to the turbo have come apart. I went on K-TEC's website and found they have changed the design because this is clearly a common problem. All I can say is I was a complete mug for buying it in the first place. But is it repairable though? :crap:
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee264/hubbellw/08052009268.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee264/hubbellw/08052009278.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee264/hubbellw/h.jpg
Just get it re-welded.
j.d
In the first picture the crack extends beyond the weld, can this still be fixed?
Tiny Tim
24-05-2009, 10:07
I'd be wanting an exchange personally.
Hello?
I saw you post Mart and Agree just get it re-welded
I'd be wanting an exchange personally.
Yeah - me too. I've already contacted K-tec and they said unless I can provide a receipt they're not interested. I've looked everywhere for the receipt but no joy. :scratch:c
Andrew Cooke
24-05-2009, 10:15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mart
:scratch:
Pfft - I'll be the first to say it.. just get it re-welded
:D
Penfold aka The Dealer
24-05-2009, 10:21
Bad customer service from K-Tec there.... they should have a copy of the transaction/sale to you as they have to keep records for 6 years!!:mad:
Although technically the buyer should always keep a reciept... but K-Tec should be more helpfull. Its the product that has f*cked up.
Tiny Tim
24-05-2009, 10:22
Pfft - I'll be the first to say it.. just get it re-welded
:D
Good idea Briccles :agree:
Tiny Tim
24-05-2009, 10:23
Bad customer service from K-Tec there.... they should have a copy of the transaction/sale to you as they have to keep records for 6 years!!:mad:
Although technically the buyer should always keep a reciept... but K-Tec should be more helpfull. Its the product that has f*cked up.
Yep, they use Sage.. it'll be on record.
I'll get it re-welded.... I just didn't know if that was possible. Is there anyone on here local ish to me who could do it? :)
Andrew Cooke
24-05-2009, 10:25
Yep, they use Sage.. it'll be on record.
password "letmein" by any chance :laugh:
Yep, they use Sage...
If not, you're stuffed.
Boom boom, tisch...
Tiny Tim
24-05-2009, 10:28
If not, you're stuffed.
Boom boom, tisch...
:laugh:
Oh dear.
If not, you're stuffed.
Boom boom, tisch...
Oh look.. Tumbleweed :D
as said they do keep all transactions on file. i had mine welded the other week not because of failure just to allow my inlet to fit but i was also going to have a bracket to made to take the weight of the turbo as this is were the problem lies
At least that post wasn't 'invisible'... :rolleyes:
as said they do keep all transactions on file. i had mine welded the other week not because of failure just to allow my inlet to fit but i was also going to have a bracket to made to take the weight of the turbo as this is were the problem lies
:agree: Same problem with the cheaper/ebay special Evo manifolds out there. They're great at first, but due to the lack of bracing, and/or the header walls are too thin (material wise), they crack after a few months use.
Andrew Cooke
24-05-2009, 10:34
At least that post wasn't 'invisible'... :rolleyes:
do you have the same invisible post problem with your new MLR chums?
do you have the same invisible post problem with your new MLR chums?
Funnily enough...
Big Supes
24-05-2009, 10:35
It's pretty common for stainless manifolds to crack around the welds.... especially if the exhaust is supported by standard rubber mounts.
Would you be up for selling it damaged??
Big Supes
24-05-2009, 11:23
Get in line then.
:cooter:
couldnt help myself but jump in then aswell!
Just get it welded, should only be about £20.
20 quid? - I might take it down the local body shop then. sorted. ;)
Not sure the bodyshop is your best bet as they will probably only have a mig welder set up for mild steel, and the manifold is stainless, a local fabricators is where you want to go, usually down some old industrial estate, or a exhaust fabricators place if any local to you, but they probably will be less likely want to touch someone elses work. Good luck and dont get ripped off! Dont let the try it on and say it will cost loads, as it doesnt, only needs a clean up and a run of weld, they may recommend welding in a brace of some sort for the turbo like has been mentioned before.
cost me 20 quid the other week and that included him cutting and splicing it about abit. he did comment saying the weld quality of the ktec manifold was actaully quite good i do have one of the later ones though.
dingo22033774
24-05-2009, 14:34
First post!
sorry for butting in need quick help any one know what order the valves go in to adjust the tappets. eg exhaust , inlet from the flywheel side of the engine. really am stuck cheers
First post!
sorry for butting in need quick help any one know what order the valves go in to adjust the tappets. eg exhaust , inlet from the flywheel side of the engine. really am stuck cheers
i think you need a haynes manual my friend. you can do them in any order if you like as long as you set each clearance when its fully open.
dingo22033774
24-05-2009, 14:41
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
have got 1 forgot it :scratch: what valve is closest to the fly wheel exhaust or inlet :)
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
have got 1 forgot it :scratch: what valve is closest to the fly wheel exhaust or inlet :)
its easy enough to spot but its the exhaust
dingo22033774
24-05-2009, 14:47
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
cheers m8 sorry im a bit of an ametur when it comes to car engines or computers
rs250nut
24-05-2009, 22:13
The weight of the turbo wont help but the material used is **** too, if they used something like 316 it would not happen.
The weight of the turbo wont help but the material used is **** too, if they used something like 316 it would not happen.
what material are they using as it doesnt say in there description, and as far as im aware its only the weld that faild not the actual material.
rs250nut
24-05-2009, 22:25
what material are they using as it doesnt say in there description, and as far as im aware its only the weld that faild not the actual material.
Because I spoke to a person who used to make them, plus look at the corrosion on it higher quality stainless with a higher carbon content wont do that:)
Because I spoke to a person who used to make them, plus look at the corrosion on it higher quality stainless with a higher carbon content wont do that:)
so what material are they using then.
my k-tec manifold cracked last week,the thing is i have had extra strengthing plates welded on the flange part plus i have a turbo support bracket and the fecker still cracked:scratch::cry:cheap crap springs to mind
rs250nut
25-05-2009, 11:46
so what material are they using then.
I dont remember because it was a while ago and there are loads of grades of stainless, just as a quick test does a magnet stick to it?
Little bit OT but worth trying for this price:
http://cgi.ebay.fr/COLLECTEUR-INOX-RENAULT-R5-GT-TURBO-NOUVEAUTE-RACELAND_W0QQitemZ330332495420QQcmdZViewItemQQptZF R_JG_Auto_Tuning?hash=item4ce959de3c&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1526|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50 (http://cgi.ebay.fr/COLLECTEUR-INOX-RENAULT-R5-GT-TURBO-NOUVEAUTE-RACELAND_W0QQitemZ330332495420QQcmdZViewItemQQptZF R_JG_Auto_Tuning?hash=item4ce959de3c&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1526%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50)
Just get it welded. 5 min job. You can use stainless wire on a mig mind.
tobester
26-05-2009, 10:08
Whilst the manifold is off have a look at the area where the headers enter the collector, one of mine has just cracked out of there, also the flange the turbo bolts to has corroded slightly causing the two surfaces to leak when the turbo is bolted on, going to get that skimmed whilst it's off, and have a chat to the guy welding mine about some ott bracing around the collector area, knowing my luck once this is done the headers will crack out of the head flange. Maybe i'll have that done too...... alternatively just stick the standard one back on as it was fine for 20 odd years .:crap::laugh:
tobester
15-06-2009, 17:36
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.php?albumid=45&pictureid=7046
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.php?albumid=45&pictureid=7045
Determined not to have to take it off again!
Nice. I would suggest checking the flange with a straight edge to see if it's warped before fitting.... :agree:
tobester
15-06-2009, 22:16
Nice. I would suggest checking the flange with a straight edge to see if it's warped before fitting.... :agree:
done, needed skimming, wish i had supplied my spare head with the manifold bolted to it to reduce warp, hindsight is a wonderful thing!! thank you for the heads up Boris. :)
FQ200turbo
21-06-2009, 18:50
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
mine broke in the same place
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