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Harrison01
07-05-2009, 12:44
can anyone recommend a wheel repair co. in the bedfordshire area that also paint wheels.

thanks

gttjames
07-05-2009, 20:33
Your not to far from me, in our area theres 'wickedwheels', 'pristine', or search there net there should be loads about, and im sure most bodyshops will do it for you. Why not try yourself?

Or theres a guy down the road from me that i know pretty well, he does them. Allthough we are about 30mins from bedford

Billy-G
07-05-2009, 21:08
Do it yourself, its very, very easy.

I used the following guide on 2 old TSW alloys I had as a trial, and bugger me if the 2 alloys I did didn't come out just beautiful.

I'll be doing the alloys on my day to day driver when I get a chance.

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1957263&posted=1#post1957263

Alastair
07-05-2009, 21:09
It depends on how far you want to go, are you just sanding out some light scuffs and repainting or are you needing to fill gouges?

Most bodyshops will strip and re-paint for you although it is easy enough to DIY

Harrison01
09-05-2009, 11:44
well i would do it myself but the turbines i have are pretty well badly corroded so much so the finished surface is lifting all over the wheel and also in the fan effect on the wheel. its a bit of a pain trying to sand this part due to the size, shape and amount of them...

wrightygtt
09-05-2009, 13:03
Do it yourself, its very, very easy.

I used the following guide on 2 old TSW alloys I had as a trial, and bugger me if the 2 alloys I did didn't come out just beautiful.

I'll be doing the alloys on my day to day driver when I get a chance.

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1957263&posted=1#post1957263


To be honest I wouldn't do it like that, its fine for DIY, but the paint wouldn't last a couple of weeks, getting filler/ primer on the tyres then thinning it off after you've painted would mean also wiping off your fresh paint! You could save your self some time by getting the beads broken/ mask them up, giving the wheels abloody good degrease and wash down, using a scotchbrite to key the whole alloy, dry the alloy out before doing your repairs,

if the kerbing is on the outside of the rim don't make it hard on your self by having to sand back the scratches you've made with the 80 grit, protect the rest of the alloy with masking tape and use a sander with 80 grite then add filler using a spreader/ business card or blade leave to dry (although liquid alloy is better as it doesn't fall out) and sand with 180/ 320 grit, wet flat using 1000 wet and dry paper, degrease wheels again, dry/ blow using air, mask up, and prime with light coats only, use a heat gun or even your/ladies hair drier for 10 minutes, BUT KEEP THE HEAT MOVING, don't aim it in one spot, before applying another coat of high build primer. Leave to dry. Then flat/sand again using 1000 wet and dry paper, degrease, blow away any dust particles, then your have a sound base to start painting on....

scratcher
09-05-2009, 20:50
There's a place in Woburn thats good. I'll find the name of it and let you know.

Big Steve - Raider
11-05-2009, 08:50
There's a place in Woburn thats good. I'll find the name of it and let you know.

Pristine

phase i 16 v turbo
11-05-2009, 10:14
I have got an account with these guys and they have always done a good job.

http://www.lepsons.com/