View Full Version : oil.is it worth getting fully synthectic??
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Which oil is everyone using?i can never make my mind up on which one to get..
anyone run a 5/50 fully synthectic?just been to halfords and they a have a 5/50 fully synthectic oil,labelled for track use.do you think this would be suitable for hard driving in a five?or is it to low a number for cold starting? :confused:
i dont know about fully synth. ive always used 20w 50 semi or 15w 40 on the odd occasions.
all depends if semi synth brings her out in a rash:p
Mudslinger
15-09-2008, 17:49
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Ive always stuck with the Mobil 1 Motorsport 15W/50 using the 0w/40 mobil 1 always made the engine sound like the tappets were needing adjusted .
Chris Hebden
15-09-2008, 17:54
I use 10-60 fully synthetic, went well!
tobester
15-09-2008, 18:06
I use 5w/40 fully synthetic. I also stick some teflon additive in there too:)
I just bought 15w/50 Mobil 1 full synthetic from halfords
I just put 15/40 or 15/50 in mine.. did regular oil changes as well :)
Northerner
15-09-2008, 19:21
I just put 15/40 or 15/50 in mine.. did regular oil changes as well :)
How regular is regular?
I just bought 15w/50 Mobil 1 full synthetic from halfords
Excellent choice.
I use Silkolene, same viscosity. Lovely stuff:)
GSF now sell silkolene oil btw
they stock 15w50 too.... 1 litre, 5 litres or 20litres...:agree:
Sparks, how much for 5L of the 10w/50 Pro S stuff?
How regular is regular?
As soon as it went black. lol.. 1000 miles sometimes... never drove the car that much you see..
Think it was silkolene stuff...
or is it to low a number for cold starting? :confused:
The lower the number the BETTER it is for cold starting.
My gtt when cold was quite a bit better with the 0W40 in it than thicker oil, even with the Valvoline 5W50 it was not as 'free' feeling.
If it's of any concern, the lower the large number the better the mpg can be.
With the Castrol w60 in, the engine felt like there was something wrong with it. Holding back. Cold or hot.
Cheapo semi synthetic ftw. Ive used 10/40w comma for years, never had any problems, even with my hard track/fast road abuse. Its all about the regular changes...
So you haven't tried any others too see if they are better? :)
Hard and fast is not what does the damage in road cars. It's the first 10 minutes. So people on the 'aunt Maud' cycle where the engine rarely gets fully warm need more protection than Sunday drivers who start up and go for a blast every now and then.
Also water accumulation in the oil does for the engine. Again some oils and low daily mileage, as opposed to the same low mileage but the whole weeks worth in one go, will go wrong sooner than others.
Anyway, if like me you do regular engine changes it doesn't matter as far as wear goes what oil you use.
If you're revving to 7k5 or above then maybe a better oil will help the engine to free some bhp. One that lubricates less well will be sapping power as that power will be used to turn the engine rather than the road wheels.
I used fully synthetic in another car, i recall it leaking out of everywhere that didn't leak prior to changing.
I used semi for 30k daily miles in my gtt, before it became a weekend car. i have done at least 50k since. Long/short journeys 7 days a week, 5k changes no bottom ends departing, good oil pressure all times. Enough to convince me not to change for something twice the price.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
i was thinking that a thin oil when cold may not be good on a 5,as it may make it tick abit?but as some of you guys have used that grade,i will probably go for the halfords 5w/50 as its £35 + free set of halfords professional screwdrivers,seems like quite a good deal.
I have my gtt from 1992, used Elf semi 10W40 from Renault dealer, was dealer serviced car. After many years of mixed use, by about 75k miles I suppose, the turbo was becoming noticeably less free. Then it jammed. Was full of backed on oil.
Fully synthetic is supposed to not do that. True or not, I don't know.
But, either way, the engine was a lot better when cold with the 0W40 in, so I stayed with that. And it didn't leak out anywhere.
thin oil when cold may not be good on a 5,as it may make it tick abitThe whole point of the thinness when cold is that it lubes BETTER :)
I suppose there is one caveat to that, if the oil pump is too worn or the bearings too worn then there might be lower oil pressure when cold. My engine was a new build that I used the 0w40 in. But old oil pump.
It well worth having an oil pressure gauge that works.
Anyone got any other methods apart from taking the alternator off for changing oil filter? I was thinking take the grille off and reach through?
hand through the drivers side arch/inner wing, with wheels on full r/h lock.
car.crash
16-09-2008, 00:14
my method is leave it all together and take the filter off. then refit a new filter.
youngscottie
16-09-2008, 18:43
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
I used fully synthetic in another car, i recall it leaking out of everywhere that didn't leak prior to changing.
I used semi for 30k daily miles in my gtt, before it became a weekend car. i have done at least 50k since. Long/short journeys 7 days a week, 5k changes no bottom ends departing, good oil pressure all times. Enough to convince me not to change for something twice the price.
i put 0w40 mobil 1 in and my crank seal started leaking:cry:
but as luck would have it it cured itself after about 5/600 miles
the engine feels less held back with the thin oil and at around £24 at cosco the mobil 1 is worth a try ( this was on a new build dont think i would change a tired engine from mineral oil to synthetic)
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
These are good for oil, special offers every so often as well:) http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-681-car-oils.aspx
There latest offer;
Dear Subscribers,
We are giving you a fantastic special offer for just two days.....15% off all products on our website!
That means 15% off all;
Im with Brigsy, i use cheapo Halfords own 15-40 Change every 3 - 5 k :)
The 8mm square hole thing for the sump plug, how do people get it off? I dont have any tool that can get it off...ive heard people say take off the metal bit between door handles but no idea what they're on about?!
Get yourself down to Halfrauds and get yourself an 8mm sump plug removal tool matey only a couple of £'s or use a pair of mole grips.
I use a door handle bar, with a handle still fitted to make a nice lever. :)
If you don't know what we're going on about, find a standard door handle in your house. You'll probably find a small grub screw on the handle - remove it. Now pull the door handle off - you'll see the bar. If you pull the other handle it'll come out. Then when you've done your oil change, put it back in the door, refit the other handle and do up the grub screw.
oh lol, silly me thought door handles on the 5...theres me taking the door cards off trying to find what people were on about :cry:
I use the back of punch works a treat everytime! :smokin:
Always worth getting the proper tool IMO, the amount of time you change the oil soon repays itself for the £6 odd you paid for the tool :)
I always use halfrauds 15/40 semi synth, the 1 time I didn't things went wrong
To remove your oil filter without removing any other parts or going thought the wheel well, use this type of tool......its the same as Renault use and the only one that works.
Oil filter tool (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VEHICLE-OIL-FILTER-WRENCH-TOOL-BRAND-NEW-CAR-BIKE_W0QQitemZ220281478310QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item 220281478310&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14)
For your sump plug, buy one of these (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-PIECE-FILL-DRAIN-SUMP-PLUG-KEY-TOOL-SET-CAR-AUTO_W0QQitemZ170261530027QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item 170261530027&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14)
Chris:)
Cheers gona get that oil filter tool, took me a while to get the damn thing off!
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.