View Full Version : Cracked piston liner
Well something had to wrong didnt it! after passing mot and spending £200 on it then insuring and taxing it, it has a cracked piston liner. :(
It happend when i dropped from 4th to 3rd going up a hill, just a puff of white smoke and loss of power. First thoughts headgasket later inspection reveals cracked piston liner.
How difficult are they to change with the engine insitu?
Not really after pulling it out.
Man I have had some tough love with this car. :cry:
head off.
sump off.
2 x 11mm bolts
lift piston and liner out as one.
remember a new liner seal
Well the head is off,
Sump next,
Wheres best place to source a new sump gasket/seal & liner seal? gsf?
Cheers guys.
silicone sealant is your friend....
Cheers for that sparks!
Right im going to purchase the stuff I need today online - So if anyone could point me in the right direction?
Do I need a bottom end gasket set? :scratch:
Also what sealant anyone got a good recommended brand?|
Sorry for being a total noob. :ashamed:
Cheers for that sparks!
Right im going to purchase the stuff I need today online - So if anyone could point me in the right direction?
Do I need a bottom end gasket set? :scratch:
Also what sealant anyone got a good recommended brand?|
Sorry for being a total noob. :ashamed:
you should be fine without a bottom end gasket set,a good
quality acetoxy silicone will do mate,also after you torqued
up the retaining nuts on the rod caps just make sure it can
be moved from side to side on the crankshaft journal.
:agree:
Nice one I will browse the net now! I know its kinda sad, but im looking forward to it!!
No doubt i may need advise as im doing it lol
Thanks for now! :D
I know its kinda sad, but im looking forward to it!!
Good lad - it's not sad.. I love working on them :)
Not sure if its granny sucking eggs time but be sure to mark the rod and cap so they go back together the right way!
Not sure if its granny sucking eggs time but be sure to mark the rod and cap so they go back together the right way!
Nope first time this.
Cool il make sure i steal the tipex from work! :D
Is that pretty much it?
bend the subframe lip downwards with mole grips to get to the front sump bolts.
in certain positions, the crank counterweights stop the sump being pulled off. just rotate the crank a bit and it will come off ok.
if you are gonna leave the sump off for ages the oil will drop out of the oil pump.- smear grease over the bottom of it to help pick up oil when you have finished the job.- either that or take the bottom of the pump off, and pack the pump with grease.
the cut out on the con rod/ cap face each other, and also are on the firewall/back of engine side of the block.
the conrod caps are 45Nm torque.
TrixNFlix
27-04-2009, 20:41
anyone know what the crank caps should be torqued too?:). haynes says 65nm, but haynes isn't always right. :sad2:
the cup manual states 55 to 65 nm`s for the main bearing bolts
TrixNFlix
27-04-2009, 21:03
cool.:) just me being paranoid:eek:
Rob@Backyardracing
27-04-2009, 22:41
Misky you need a set up or you will just do it again mate....;)
The car set up?
Yeh it was going to be done but only was on the road for 3/4 days before this happened. Once its fixed could you set it up?
Rob@Backyardracing
27-04-2009, 22:48
Chat on Pm, would have to be after RTOC pod event tho now...:crap:
Adam 005
27-04-2009, 22:53
Well something had to wrong didnt it! after passing mot and spending £200 on it then insuring and taxing it, it has a cracked piston liner. :(
It happend when i dropped from 4th to 3rd going up a hill, just a puff of white smoke and loss of power. First thoughts headgasket later inspection reveals cracked piston liner.
How difficult are they to change with the engine insitu?
Not really after pulling it out.
Man I have had some tough love with this car. :cry:
Any idears why the liner split:confused::confused: must have been caused by more that just changing up a gear
Yeh piston number one, pass side of piston. got a pic will upload when i get chance.
As Rob says it was wasnt set up correctly so prob the high boost combined with the poor fueling caused it.
Argh well you live and learn with these little cars! :cry:
Right finally got around to doin this.
Piston is inside the new liner, fixed the cap on the conrod etc, but when i crank then engine by hand the liner jus lifts out with the piston!!!!! :scratch::eek::cry:
TrixNFlix
23-05-2009, 16:11
Misky you need to use big washers and old head bolts to tighten down the liners to stop them moving with no head on!
Fit the head & gasket back on & it wont move. If you need to turn the crank with head off clamp the liner down with some big washers & a bolt.
TrixNFlix
23-05-2009, 16:14
I hope the other 3 liners havn't moved caus all that'd keeping them in the right place is rust and years of crap!
I hope the other 3 liners havn't moved caus all that'd keeping them in the right place is rust and years of crap!
Sweet! nah they are sound!
Right back to work cheers guys!! :agree:
TrixNFlix
23-05-2009, 16:18
Put a little layer of silicone sealant on the rubber liner seal just for extra security.
TrixNFlix
23-05-2009, 16:23
Coolio :agree:
Were the other 3 liners clamped down?
Nope but, they feel flush. Anyway way can compress them if needs be?
I Just followed the advice on here as never done this before, but its not biggie.
TrixNFlix
23-05-2009, 16:51
Tis a biggie if water leaks and mixes with the oil in block:cry:
Loosing the will to live AGAIN!!!
Torqued it up to 45nm now there is no side movement, its solid!
As much as I hate to say this, I should of got a garage to do this. FAIL. :cry:
TrixNFlix
23-05-2009, 17:12
Are they deffo in the right place as they can slide round a bit. Is the cap on the right way? The cutouts on both sides should point to the back of the block.
Yeh the cut outs are facing the back, must not be in the right place. :crap:
Think I need a new bolt anyway one is starting to round of, due trying to torque it in an arkward place.
Slightly depressing this as im desperate for it to be back together but dont want this desperation to mean I make mistakes. :rolleyes:
TrixNFlix
23-05-2009, 17:18
I assume the caps and shells were still coated in loads of oil? Don't worry will get sorted just don't give up
TrixNFlix
23-05-2009, 17:21
Misky I think me and you have had so many problems with are r5's, just gotta keep going one day all will be well. :agree:
I assume the caps and shells were still coated in loads of oil? Don't worry will get sorted just don't give up
Nope :ashamed: as they where off the shelf nice & clean.
Yeh just feel like your fighting a loosing battle, argh well time to have a rest and a afternoon kip. :) Start again tomorow. Cheers for the advice mate!
Yeh defo, our probs never end! lol
TrixNFlix
23-05-2009, 17:29
If we didn't make mistakes we wouldn't learn anything. All will feel better tomorrow morn after a decent sleep and waking up to a gorgeous blue sky. :)
TrixNFlix
23-05-2009, 17:32
Tomorrow Make sure you coat the caps and both sides of the shell in oil.;)
TrixNFlix
23-05-2009, 17:36
Also don't just put a standard nut on to replace the rounded one as they are high tensile jobbies
you should clamp the liners down before trying to rotate the crank those liner seals are very easy to nip. if i was you check and replace if nessasary. its a waste of time and money assembling it all if there not right
Nope but, they feel flush. Anyway way can compress them if needs be?
I Just followed the advice on here as never done this before, but its not biggie.
If you've rotated the crank without clamping the liners, there's a good possibility they could've moved, and as a result could've damaged/split the liner seal(s).
Imho, it's not worth the risk of putting it all back together without checking those seals first. And if you're gonna do that, you might as well fit new seals as you'll more than likely damage the originals as you pull the liners out.
For sure, as has been said, fully lubricate the shells before fitment, as if you fit them dry they'll score like feck first time you crank the engine.
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