View Full Version : Turbo Toaster
I know this won't go down well with some of the ppeps on here or any other forum for that matter but I've raised the rear suspension on my 5 20mm, why have I done this, so I can get the stance closer to the factory setup, just abit lower and stiffer in an attempt to improve the handling, that and so I can soften the rear damper settings cus my spine won't take much more
U know those days when u should have stayed in bed, well when I put the engine back in the 5 I was must have been having 1 of those days as I just found I'd put the rear mount together wrong aswell as the brake pad inccedent of which we'll never talk.
Good news I've found what was causing the vibration, turns out I'd snapped 1 of the bolts that holds the wishbone in half, a new bolt and bye bye vibration :D
Now if I'd could just get the brakes working again and fix the oil leak (damn sealing paste) it'll be all good
Seems Renault have replaced the old sump sealing paste with some new stuff, not cheap but it comes in a cool mini sealent tube, they claim it'll never leak, well only time will tell on that
Seems Renault have replaced the old sump sealing paste with some new stuff, not cheap but it comes in a cool mini sealent tube, they claim it'll never leak, well only time will tell on that
To be honest matey I gave up buying Thixo from Renault ages ago couldn't be arsed to keep paying Renault prices so now just use Loctite sump sealant and it has never leaked on me yet and used it on a few sumps now with no probs:D
Save the pennis on one part for the 5 and then spend the saved pennis on another part of the 5:laugh:
I use the mastixo paste, Only £6 a tube so not really expensive?
From what ive seen it sets better than most instant gasket, i had to lever my sump off after using it! I ran out of it when re-fitting my sump, Used the payen stuff i got with the bottom end set & thats started to leak..
I use the mastixo paste, Only £6 a tube so not really expensive?
From what ive seen it sets better than most instant gasket, i had to lever my sump off after using it! I ran out of it when re-fitting my sump, Used the payen stuff i got with the bottom end set & thats started to leak..
£6.00 is that all it is :laugh: the last time I went was about a year ago and they wanted £15.00 ish for it.
markey b
10-06-2009, 14:39
mine has got the GSF cork gaskets, and its not leaking a drop, which makes a nice change for my car lol
mine has got the GSF cork gaskets, and its not leaking a drop, which makes a nice change for my car lol
that is a change for yours, usally its its steam from the cracked liner lol
I use the mastixo paste, Only £6 a tube so not really expensive?
From what ive seen it sets better than most instant gasket, i had to lever my sump off after using it! I ran out of it when re-fitting my sump, Used the payen stuff i got with the bottom end set & thats started to leak..
wheres the best place to get that from mate ???
Well that all singing all dancing sealing paste from Renault that they claim will never leak, leaked and very badly I might add, had I not had an eye on the oil pressure gauge I'd be writing about how I missed the french car show cus I was busy pulling my engine out to replace the fecked bearings:mad:
Fortunatly a mate gave me the last of his sealing paste and on the saturday morning I got the car up on axle stands and resealed the sump again, this time it was fine and it made it all the way to rockingham and back with no probs
Did you give the paste 24hrs to go off, Works fine for me...
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
here ya go alex, HRK in da house...
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a190/mark_wsmcuk/redline125.jpg
superb photographs!! :cool:
is it a cap carbon on the WHITE GT ?
Did you give the paste 24hrs to go off, Works fine for me...
It had 48hrs to go off before I tryed it:(
You can tell I've finished running in the engine because on the way to and from FCS the 5 did 42.8mpg and today it just did 29.1mpg:D ya gotta love the boost
Pete@Backyard Racing
20-06-2009, 23:22
turbo toaster? is this the same car that had the huge rs500 intercooler hanging out the front end a few years back?
turbo toaster? is this the same car that had the huge rs500 intercooler hanging out the front end a few years back?
Nope, it was near standard when I got it and its only had a forge front mount
Some times these cars really puzzle me, ever since I refirbed the brakes there has been what sounded like an air leak but I haven't been able to find it, today I spent a couple of hours getting a ferw jobs done ready for mapping on tuesday, plumb the wastegate upto the boost control solanoid, make up a new set of HT leads, adjust damper settings, adjust the timing.
Now the brakes seem normal again but I've done nothing to them, sometimes you gotta love these self repairing cars:D
Markey Mark (BD)
27-06-2009, 19:02
turbo toaster? is this the same car that had the huge rs500 intercooler hanging out the front end a few years back?
Thats a different car mate
Just got home from a mapping session at Emerald, a quick chat to Dave and he sorted the timing issue I couldn't in just a few seconds (damn he's good) and then it was on with the mapping.
Just before I converted it to EFI it made 189bhp and 193ft lb at 20psi and here's the print out from the latest session
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/7psimap.jpg
Yep thats right 120bhp and 125ft lb at 7psi and unfortunatly thats as far as we got due to a pin hole leak in the manifold gasket causing unstable idle and the fact I was sent non supressed HT leads instead of supressed leads causing a misfire at mid to high range, Dave felt it would be better to sort these out before trying to wind the boost up any further and risk somit breaking, I had to agree with him and returned home, but at 6grand with the wastegate open and the screamer unleashing HELL :D
Andrew Cooke
30-06-2009, 17:38
not bad, that's 14hp up on a standard engine at that boost :agree:
not bad, that's 14hp up on a standard engine at that boost :agree:
yep but it should make more at that boost once I've fixed the air leak and replaced the HT leads but to be honest that map is just for day to day driving, the other 2 maps will be the power maps for track and drag, should be interesting to see what power they put out
not bad, that's 14hp up on a standard engine at that boost :agree:
Hold onto your hats!!! :burnrubber:
You know theres only one toaster anyway!! ;)
Hold onto your hats!!! :burnrubber:
You know theres only one toaster anyway!! ;)
hey after nearly 8 months with only a 4500rpm rev limit and boost that does what ever it likes, it feels bloody quick again:D
just gotta do a couple of things and then I can wind it up and make some serious power again :D
hey after nearly 8 months with only a 4500rpm rev limit and boost that does what ever it likes, it feels bloody quick again:D
just gotta do a couple of things and then I can wind it up and make some serious power again :D
go'go GO !!
:burnrubber::p
go'go GO !!
:burnrubber::p
You wouldn't believe how much fun I had with only 120bhp on the way home, god how I've missed being able to rag it
Right I've changed the HT leads for the proper resistive jobs and there is a slight improvement but the air leak is defo causing problems but I've got a feeling I may have miss diagnoised where it is, till now I've been asuming the manifold gasket is leaking but what I forgot the brakes are still knackered.
So my first job is to drop into Renault monday afternoon and get a fresh master cyclinder seal as I think I may have screwed up the install of the last one.
Oh and by the way, SCREAMER PIPES RULE :D
TNT ANDY
16-07-2009, 22:30
Any further on Oli???
Wasn't the master cyclinder seal, next job, engine out, new servo and pray it works cus the dreaded MOT is up at the end of the month:scared:
turbo ted
16-07-2009, 23:26
you d'ont need to take the engine out to change the servo just take the driveshaft off and it drops down and comes out under your wheel arch;)
you d'ont need to take the engine out to change the servo just take the driveshaft off and it drops down and comes out under your wheel arch;)
Really, but it'll still be a bitch to get the master cyclinder off and not cover myself in brake fluid
markey b
17-07-2009, 20:30
Really, but it'll still be a bitch to get the master cyclinder off and not cover myself in brake fluid
yo dont need to undo any of the brake lines... 2x 13mm nuts and move the master cyl out the way
turbo ted
17-07-2009, 20:43
un bolt the master cylinder from the servo do not disconnect the brake lines pull the master cylinder up out of the way by bending the pipes then unbolt the servo from foot well undo pin from brake pedal push servo out it does come out with the master cylinder still connected but it is very very tight its alot less work than taking a engine out and you d'ont have to bleed the brakes just make your knuckles bleed instead:D
un bolt the master cylinder from the servo do not disconnect the brake lines pull the master cylinder up out of the way by bending the pipes then unbolt the servo from foot well undo pin from brake pedal push servo out it does come out with the master cylinder still connected but it is very very tight its alot less work than taking a engine out and you d'ont have to bleed the brakes just make your knuckles bleed instead:D
Oh good, I've been looking for a way to waste some blood lol
Damnit, last year just before the MOT I replaced the horn and the drivers side headlight as both were knackered, this just before the MOT both need replacing again as the horn had stopped working and the headlight has a bloody great hole in it from a large stone.
Fortunatly MarkyB came to my rescue with a spare headlight and horn, even more fortunatly I got my horn working again :)but I did have to change the headlight :(
Yes its offical, the problem with my brakes was my doing:rolleyes: looks like I hadn't quite got the master cyclinder square on to the rod in the servo cus when I took it off the rod was sitting on the inside lip and doing nothing, oh well, live and learn, at least I have brakes again, but now I have another problem, seems I've made them to good, it locks all four wheels with hardly any effort, wonder if I can bodge a ABS system on to it
TNT ANDY
19-07-2009, 13:09
Fecking sparkies!!!
:cooter:
Fecking sparkies!!!
:cooter:
You can talk ya house basher :wasntme:
TNT ANDY
19-07-2009, 13:27
Glad you got it sorted fella -:smokin:
Glad you got it sorted fella -:smokin:
Me too, the MOT is comin up fast and I was facing going to national day in my misses clio diesel, hardly a track weapon
have a brake have a kit kat....
:cartman:
Right since my car got resprayed my vin number on the strut top has been lost and with the MOT looming I thought best to do somit about it.
So a quick look on fleabay and 8 quid later a number/letter punch kit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Vin2.jpg
add a piece of 1.6mm ally
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Vin3.jpg
and the V5 for the toaster
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Vin4.jpg
and here we have the beginings of a vin plate, gunna take abit of practice to get it right though
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Vin.jpg
have you not took a look at this site.? (http://www.vintagsuk.com/) im sure they will replicate any vin plate, i think they require proof of such and such though!
edit: doh! i thought you ment the vin plate:ashamed:.
have you not took a look at this site.? (http://www.vintagsuk.com/) im sure they will replicate any vin plate, i think they require proof of such and such though!
edit: doh! i thought you ment the vin plate:ashamed:.
The vin number and the plate went missing during the respray.
Very handy site that, espcially when I need to copy a motor:D
MOT day and for the first time in the 3years I've owned my GTT I decided to get a proper test done, no cutting corners, no oh thats close enough on the emissions kind of test, a proper one, done by the strictest tester I know.
Big mistake
Took him all of 45mins to come up with 5 major faults and 4 advisories :cry:
The failures:-
1) Sidelights seem to be more blue than white
2) The brake lights stay on perminatly
3) The number plate mount is insufficiant
4) CO2 emissions too high
5) Hydrocarbon emissions too high
The advisories:-
1) Near side wheel bearing has minor play
2) Minor oil leak
3) Near side rear tyre down to within 2mm of wear indicators
4) Near side rear wearing unevenly
First off the failures
1) I had normal sidelight blubs in the glove box. Done
2) I hadn't adjusted the brake light switch when I did the servo, a couple of turns. Done
3) 2 Tie wraps through the mesh in the front Grill. Done
4) & 5) Plugged in laptop and checked which load site it was sitting in at idle and reduced the ijector duration until the car was close to stalling. Done
That got it a pass, but I wasn't happy with advisories
1) The front wheel bearings were only a month old so out came the torque wrench, nope hadn't done it up enough, play gone. done
2) Cleaned the oil away and went for a blast at full throttle, no oil leaking. Done
3) & 4) ah well ya can't win em all, the tyres have done 4 trackdays and over 10,000miles
Anyway, the Toaster is now the most legal it has ever been since I bought it :D
Roll on national day :D
Penfold aka The Dealer
01-08-2009, 19:29
Oli, you dont happen to have the phone number of the company who sold you the metal stamp kit do you??
Also you can buy blank vin plates on ebay. :)
Oli, you dont happen to have the phone number of the company who sold you the metal stamp kit do you??
Also you can buy blank vin plates on ebay. :)
This is the company
http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/magnifying.glasses.and.tools
Typical, for the first time in nearly fours years of owning the 5 I was a week away from national day with 100% confidence that it would make it with no problems
Spoke to soon, went out to it this morning and the battery was flat, dunno why, I was only driving it 4 hours before hand and my volt meter has been showing a constant 14volts since I got it back on the road, oh well on goes the charger, hopefully just a cold snap that it didn't like
All sorted, a quick top up of the battery fluid and a nice long charge of the mains and all is well again, even found time to dig out my track wheels, can't wait:burnrubber:
Because I was lazy, I didn't make a support for the wastegate and as the inevitable happened, the weight cracked my manifold, fortunatly my mate Alex has already fixed and given me strict instructions to make a breacket so it doesn't crack again, so thats why I ordered 4 rose joint track rod ends for a gokart, why you may ask, so I can make this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/WGSupport.jpg
1 End will bolt to the gear box directly below the wastegate and the other end goes on the end of 1 of the wastegates mounting bolts, I'm make 2 of these to connect to the wastegate and another 2 to take the weight of the turbo off the manifold aswell.
I've also got another pair coming but 1 with an left hand thread so I can make a adjustable altenator bracket that doesn't need 2 people to tighten it.
Andrew Cooke
26-08-2009, 18:45
sounds a bit like my turbo support stick, and alternator tensioner :)
Are your joints all steel, or with PTFE liners?
sounds a bit like my turbo support stick, and alternator tensioner :)
Are your joints all steel, or with PTFE liners?
All steel, got any pics of your alt tensioner, it'd be interestin to see how you did compared to how I was plannin on doing it
Andrew Cooke
27-08-2009, 12:59
#252 in my build
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=5149&page=6
took the 5 for mapping today it went well, until a few issues came up
the first being it seems the valves arn't sealing properly when they close, a reseat of the valves should sort that.
Second we checked the valve lift and each lobe came up different, infact they inlet valve lift varried by upto 2mm and the exhaust by upto 3mm, sounds like its eating itself to me, I have 2 standard cams in my shed so 1 of those should sort it.
Third being the main problem, although we got 19psi out of the turbo, for some reason the vnt didn't adjust, I'm thinking the actuator is fooked.
you're going to run full efi and a VNT with a standard camshaft ? that would be an astronomical waste ;)
there are a few good reasons
1. I have the cam already
2. The highlift I was using never did make much of a difference
3. I'm in the process of buying my first house so I can't afford to keep throwing money at it, I will have make the best with what I have
markey b
12-09-2009, 00:38
you're going to run full efi and a VNT with a standard camshaft ? that would be an astronomical waste ;)
mine is a vnt on a std cam :scared:
markey b
12-09-2009, 00:39
oli, you'll have to make me an offer i can't refuse on my naughty cam :cooter:
oli, you'll have to make me an offer i can't refuse on my naughty cam :cooter:
A mars bar and a packet of ready salted crisps
markey b
12-09-2009, 09:40
A mars bar and a packet of ready salted crisps
make it salt and vinegar and i'll let you touch it x
make it salt and vinegar and i'll let you touch it x
deal :laugh:
Went to a pub meet of a local forum today but before I went I had a play about with the actuator but didn't have a chance to try it until I was on the way home.
Feck me Mr Sulu!!! did you just hit the warp speed button!!!
it got to 3000rpm and I got 12psi of boost with the vanes turned and feck me did it go like an utter **** http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_eek.gif :burnrubber:
I think I'm onto somit, I had used a bleed valve to get the vnt to increase boost beyond the factory 10psi but used the external wastegate to control it but the moment I closed off the bleed valve as if it wasn't there I got me boost back http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_biggrin.gif
1 of the other issues I had on the dyno was the leak down test showing no. 1 & 2 loosing alot of pressure, since the only things I haven't down that would account for this area valve reseating and valve guides I've had a word with my local machine shop, basically it'd be 48quid to reseat the valves and fit the guides, the guides would cost between 4 and 9quid each, just need to find out what there made of, anyone know?
just read this whole thread
an wow uve had some problems, think yr on par with me lol
keep it up any more power figures and graphs yet
markey b
15-09-2009, 15:33
just need to find out what there made of, anyone know?
metal... :cooter:
randalls can do bronze guides for about £8 each fitted last time i checked
Last edited by markey b; Today at 15:34. Reason: removed the 'lol'
:laugh: Billy will be proud :agree:
metal... :cooter:
randalls can do bronze guides for about £8 each fitted last time i checked
Helpfull as ever Butterworth:rolleyes:
markey b
15-09-2009, 18:33
:laugh: Billy will be proud :agree:
LOL
The new Bill J
15-09-2009, 18:51
:D
:D
ay up turkish boy...feelin licky??.....:cooter:
On saturday I decided to pull my finger out and get on with tweaking the boost control settings, so out came my laptop, exstension lead and my desktop monitor (the laptop battery died long ago and now the screen has packed up) a few clicks and I saved all of Dave's latest mapping efforts and then I began tweaking the settings.
The boost was being held back till about 3250rpm so I set the solinoid to open fully so I could see what the turbo would do, saved it and and went for a blat, spent 10mins getting everything nicely warmed up and then flicked the map switch and planted it.............. and then quciklyknocked it into neutral and got ready to cry:eek:
It revved up but didn't accelerate, only made a nasty grinding noise then seemed to go but started missfiring, I flicked the map switch back to 7psi I drove home but every time I got it on boost it started missfiring again :cry:
In dispair I parked up and went inside for a beer or 3 :beer::beer::beer:
Sunday morning I decided to have a look at the damage but couldn't find anything, so I figured I'd killed a spark plug and went to remove the first plug cap which fell to bits in my hand, so do the next 1, the other 2 had nasty looking cracks in them (I should explain I was using solid phenolic supressed plug caps which had a 10k ohm resistor inside to help block any electrical noise), with a local pub meet fast approching I got desperate and got an old set of HT leads and robbed the rubber boots and together with a spare set of plug terminals, I replaced the plug caps and crossed my fingers hoping they'd work.
Well bugger me if they didn't work but also work better than the plug caps, it now idles smoother, picks up from idle much better, revs more freely and drives alot more smoothly, why the feck didn't I do this sooner:scratch:
Oh well, leason learnt, took it out for a short blast last night to try again, didn't quite get the results I wanted and started heading home, till some ****er in an audi A3 thought he'd sit 2inches off my back bumper, so I let him past, flicked the map switch and planted it, feck me it went like a stabbed rat :burnrubber:, just had to remember to wave to the ****er as I sailed by :D
It did start to lean out higher up the rev range and the boost did start to creep but thats only cus the wastegate was being held shut by the solinoid and was letting the VNT's actuator do the boost control.
This weekend with some help from MarkyB I'm hoping I can get the settings correct so the boost doesn't creep anymore and richen up the mixture so the head stays in contact with the block.
good stuff oli,keep at it fella!!!
:agree:
Really do need to get the passenger side CV boot replaced, its not got any holes in it but keeps letting the grease out, a quick blob of cv grease and all is well again for another month :laugh:
Really do need to get the passenger side CV boot replaced, its not got any holes in it but keeps letting the grease out, a quick blob of cv grease and all is well again for another month :laugh:
zip tie..
:agree:
zip tie..
:agree:
Done that 3 or 4 times, didn't work
markey b
30-09-2009, 00:41
stainless tie, thats what renault use from the factory, a plastic one will never go tight enough
stainless tie, thats what renault use from the factory, a plastic one will never go tight enough
I know this but haven't had the time to get it done
Fecking A, I got the screen on my laptop working again, this means all I need to do is get a working battery and I can do mapping on fly :D
Andrew Cooke
30-09-2009, 18:56
you want something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Power-Inverter-150W-DC-12V-220V-All-purpose-adaptor_W0QQitemZ400075226485QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK _CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5d26577d7 5&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
you want something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Power-Inverter-150W-DC-12V-220V-All-purpose-adaptor_W0QQitemZ400075226485QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK _CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5d26577d7 5&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
I had a 150w inverter but the laptop killed it so I got a 300w invertor, only problem with it, is that it connects direct on to the battery terminals, not idel when driving along with someone in the passnger seat tweaking settings.
I could wire a cig plug on the end but I'm too lazy lol, besides I want a laptop that works with putting a drain on the car in any way.
Couldn't be arsed to get another battery for me laptop so I hooked up my inverter as Mr Cooke said and went and done some testing this morning, I've got the boost to sit around 11 - 12psi all the way round to the 6grand limit (7 when it goes for proper mapping) also got the fueling to sit near enough perfect aswell but there is one major problem with this new boost setting
I need new underware :eek: feck me it took off like a stabbed rat and showed no signs of slowing down at 130 :eek: if this is what it does at 12psi, what the feck is it gunna do at 22psi :scared:
Andrew Cooke
03-10-2009, 15:22
took the 5 for mapping today it went well, until a few issues came up
the first being it seems the valves arn't sealing properly when they close, a reseat of the valves should sort that.
Second we checked the valve lift and each lobe came up different, infact they inlet valve lift varried by upto 2mm and the exhaust by upto 3mm, sounds like its eating itself to me, I have 2 standard cams in my shed so 1 of those should sort it.
Third being the main problem, although we got 19psi out of the turbo, for some reason the vnt didn't adjust, I'm thinking the actuator is fooked.
just spotted this. As far as I know, not all standard cams are the same, check the lobe lift on the ones you have, the best I've measured is 5.6mm.
just spotted this. As far as I know, not all standard cams are the same, check the lobe lift on the ones you have, the best I've measured is 5.6mm.
I have the original cam that this engine left the factory with, bearly had 60,000miles on it when I took it out
Andrew Cooke
03-10-2009, 18:57
I have the original cam that this engine left the factory with, bearly had 60,000miles on it when I took it out
but how much goodness does it contain?
http://www.rtoc.org/cam/?cam=std+GTT&lsa=&cam2=std+GTT+2&lsa2=&rocker=1.5&advance=0&vc=0.2
but how much goodness does it contain?
http://www.rtoc.org/cam/?cam=std+GTT&lsa=&cam2=std+GTT+2&lsa2=&rocker=1.5&advance=0&vc=0.2
Looked mint when I oil and bagged it.
Seems the extra power is showing up another problem, the clutch is whats making the grinding noise, I recon the centre splines are on the way out, an annoyed phone call on monday it is then
markey b
03-10-2009, 21:22
Looked mint when I oil and bagged it.
Seems the extra power is showing up another problem, the clutch is whats making the grinding noise, I recon the centre splines are on the way out, an annoyed phone call on monday it is then
at least puttin the stabilser bar in means that its gonna be clutch or diff, my money is on the clutch centre plate
at least puttin the stabilser bar in means that its gonna be clutch or diff, my money is on the clutch centre plate
I'll find out today when I strip it down, it let go on the way home last night, glad I'd stripped the car, was hard enough pushing it for a mile, a full fat r5 woulda been a killer
Got the box and clutch out this morning and the splines fooked, so I spent the rest of the day mopping MarkyB's raider, damn that was hard work, was never gunna look great, the thing is every panel painted in every different shade of raider blue:eek:
markey b
04-10-2009, 21:03
Got the box and clutch out this morning and the splines fooked, so I spent the rest of the day mopping MarkyB's raider, damn that was hard work, was never gunna look great, the thing is every panel painted in every different shade of raider blue:eek:
cheers boyo! your hard graft will be rewarded as i'll order a clutch 2mora and you get free 'deliver and fit' lol
markey b
04-10-2009, 21:04
my money is on the clutch centre plate
:agree:
cheers boyo! your hard graft will be rewarded as i'll order a clutch 2mora and you get free 'deliver and fit' lol
cheers bud
Damn no forward gears but I have reverse, sounds like a linkage problem but that was a ok before hand, oh well, further investigation required then
Bloody hell, I'm knackered, I've not had a day off work in 2 weeks and still have another week to go and hopefully moving house at the weekend and yet I just spent the last 4 hours taking out my old gearbox and fitting the new...... ish gearbox.
Its not completely back together but another hour would see it done, I would've finished it tonight but I've run out of light and my roast dinner is nearly ready so it can wait till mid week.
Its not completely back together but another hour would see it done, I would've finished it tonight but I've run out of light and my roast dinner is nearly ready so it can wait till mid week.[/quote]
No excuse, get out there with a floodlight and finish it :D;)
Its not completely back together but another hour would see it done, I would've finished it tonight but I've run out of light and my roast dinner is nearly ready so it can wait till mid week.
No excuse, get out there with a floodlight and finish it :D;)[/QUOTE]
I will but not tonight, to tired
I've finally got the time to finish putting the 5 back together and the results ain't good, the gearbox cleaned up a treat and looks great and it went in so easy but it went abit wrong when it came to the testing http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_sad.gif
For MarkyB's quater mile time, its gunna get an even bigger whooping, the old girl lives again http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_biggrin.gif
There's a few small details to sort but the main thing is it works but I can now get on with making it go fast and that should be fairly easy http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_biggrin.gif http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_biggrin.gif http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_biggrin.gif
TNT Tricky Nicky
22-10-2009, 23:44
Good work oli.
I had the same problem with one of my boxes, clutch was slipping so parked it up on driveway, whipped the engine/box out changed clutch, stuck it all back in same day and low and behold, reverse worked fine just couldn't go forward, wouldn't engage any gears.
Never did find out why, swapped it for a spare, it took it's place in the shed with the intention of having it looked at to find the problem but never did, got taken away in the back of a car I scrapped, if you find out why post it up as would be interesting to kno. I did ask the wizard, I think he was :smokin: as said I had put the clutch plate on back to front :scratch:
markey b
23-10-2009, 12:17
For MarkyB's quater mile time, its gunna get an even bigger whooping, the old girl lives again http://galleryserver.myff.org//smilies/icon_biggrin.gif
is should hope so, but you'll never have as much torque ah ha ha ha!
I've had a volt meter mounted in my dash where the old digi clock used to be but it never matched any of the other gauges I have and now its given up and died, so I decided to sort out somit different, now instead of going out and buying a new gauge I decided to box clever and pulled an old battery terminal out of my garage, it has a built in digi volt meter, I'd still be using it if the terminals didn't strip there threads. Anyway I decided to take the meter out and mount it in a plate so I can have it on the dash.
First off here's the old terminal
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Volt%20Meter/1.jpg
The meter removed from the terminal
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Volt%20Meter/2.jpg
I tapped the screw holes which also act as the live terminal to 3.5mm so some socket front screws would fit, next up I made a live lead and connected it to the gauge using the mounting screws
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Volt%20Meter/3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Volt%20Meter/4.jpg
Next I got an old neon control box and removed the lid and marked where I need to cut
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Volt%20Meter/7.jpg
After drilling out a series of tiny holes and popped out the centre bit and got going with a file to smooth the edges
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Volt%20Meter/8.jpg
The finished product, now the mount is only a temp to see if it would work, eventually I'm going to make a new mounting plate out of carbon fibre
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Volt%20Meter/9.jpg
I did test it on an old battery but that was nearly flat and the led display didn't show up
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Volt%20Meter/6.jpg
Right next up I've had a crack at the heater control panel on my dash, I've had a stainless steel plate over the top for ages which allowed for a 52mm gauge inplace of the digi clock but now I wanted something different so I took the old stainless panel out and got some off cuts of carbon fibre.
First off here's the old panel
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Htr%20Control%20Panel/H1.jpg
A nice shiney bit of carbon
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Htr%20Control%20Panel/H2.jpg
A quick mask up and place the old panel over the top and draw round it
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Htr%20Control%20Panel/H3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Htr%20Control%20Panel/H4.jpg
Some carefull cutting with a hacksaw
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Htr%20Control%20Panel/H5.jpg
Next using a dremil I've cut out the fan switch and heater temp and direction knobs
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Htr%20Control%20Panel/H6.jpg
Now again with the dremil I've cout the holes for the new volt meter
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Htr%20Control%20Panel/H7.jpg
The finished articul, looks so much better than the old job and cost me nothing but time :D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Htr%20Control%20Panel/H8.jpg
bonsoir a toi !
je passe actuellement en gestion sybel avec allumage jumostatique ! (sur mon second GT TURBO )
et je doit faire comme toi , enlevé ma tête de delco et déplacés mes fils de bougie !
pourrais tu me donner le lien (voir tout les détails) de ce qui t'as permis de faire tes fils de bougie !!
car a pard chez CGB , je n'est rien trouver !!!
merci d'avance pour ton aide .
good evening you has! :cool:
I currently pass in jumostatic management sybel with lighting! (on my second TURBO WP)
and I must make like you, removed my distributer and moved my sons of candle!
could you give me the bond (see all the details) what you aces allowed to make your sons of candle!!
because has pard at CGB, I is not nothing to find!!!
thank you in advance for your assistance. :agree:
markey b
31-10-2009, 11:59
james's carbon heater panel has inspired you then oli? lol
james's carbon heater panel has inspired you then oli? lol
Didn't know he had one, I'm thinking I'll make up a few of these and see if anyone on here wants em
bonsoir a toi !
je passe actuellement en gestion sybel avec allumage jumostatique ! (sur mon second GT TURBO )
et je doit faire comme toi , enlevé ma tête de delco et déplacés mes fils de bougie !
pourrais tu me donner le lien (voir tout les détails) de ce qui t'as permis de faire tes fils de bougie !!
car a pard chez CGB , je n'est rien trouver !!!
merci d'avance pour ton aide .
good evening you has! :cool:
I currently pass in jumostatic management sybel with lighting! (on my second TURBO WP)
and I must make like you, removed my distributer and moved my sons of candle!
could you give me the bond (see all the details) what you aces allowed to make your sons of candle!!
because has pard at CGB, I is not nothing to find!!!
thank you in advance for your assistance. :agree:
I'd love to help you Xenon but I can't understand your english let alone your french
If anyone on here can speak french and translate for me that'd be helpfull
bonsoir a toi !
je passe actuellement en gestion sybel avec allumage jumostatique ! (sur mon second GT TURBO )
et je doit faire comme toi , enlevé ma tête de delco et déplacés mes fils de bougie !
pourrais tu me donner le lien (voir tout les détails) de ce qui t'as permis de faire tes fils de bougie !!
car a pard chez CGB , je n'est rien trouver !!!
merci d'avance pour ton aide .
good evening you has! :cool:
I currently pass in jumostatic management sybel with lighting! (on my second TURBO WP)
and I must make like you, removed my distributer and moved my sons of candle!
could you give me the bond (see all the details) what you aces allowed to make your sons of candle!!
because has pard at CGB, I is not nothing to find!!!
thank you in advance for your assistance. :agree:
I think he is roughly saying:
good evening,
I am currently working on wasted-spark ignition with sybel management [a brand, I guess ?] (on my second gt turbo)
I must do as you have, remove my distributor and move my HT leads. Can you give me a link (to see all the details) of what allowed you to move your HT leads.
[I think he's asking you what wasted-spark coil and HT leads you used]
I think he is roughly saying:
good evening,
I am currently working on wasted-spark ignition with sybel management [a brand, I guess ?] (on my second gt turbo)
I must do as you have, remove my distributor and move my HT leads. Can you give me a link (to see all the details) of what allowed you to move your HT leads.
[I think he's asking you what wasted-spark coil and HT leads you used]
I guessed it was somit to do with the ignition but didn't have a clue what, cheers Scoff.
This is where I got my HT leads from
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/
The coil pack was from a ford fiesta zetec
I guessed it was somit to do with the ignition but didn't have a clue what, cheers Scoff.
This is where I got my HT leads from
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/
The coil pack was from a ford fiesta zetec
thank you for information!!
and sorry for my English who and very bad!! :ashamed:
No worries chap, my french is rubbish so don't worry about it
markey b
05-11-2009, 23:42
your sister in law is french! lol
your sister in law is french! lol
I know:laugh:
Its been ages since I last did an update, so here we go.
First things first, the last Time I posted I'd just got a 14psi wastegate spring but hadn't fitted it
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/WG14psi.jpg
I did finally get around to fitting it and for the first time in over a year my 5 was boosting as it should and was going bloody fast.
Unfortunatly the same night I went to the misses place but enroute I hit a slight snag, namely this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/OilLeak.jpg
One of the oil lines to the external cooler shifted and got caught by the auxiliy belt resulting in the oil making a bid for freedom:(
With abit of help from a mate I got it back home and stripped it down the next day only finding the damaged pipe after removing the head thinking I'd damaged that somehow.
Since the head was off I decided to take advantage and change the cam, port and polish the head and get the new valves guides done.
I've also made a few changes to the airfilter, namely it sits well behind the headlight enclosed in carbon.
First off I made some cardboard templates
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20AF%20Location/DSC00676.jpg
Then transfered the templates onto a sheet of carbon that I've already covered with masking tape.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20AF%20Location/DSC00677.jpg
After abit of hack sawing and some drilling the panels are ready, here they are in there final location, with abit of old red vacuum hose around the edge to neaten them up abit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20AF%20Location/DSC00678.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20AF%20Location/DSC00679.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20AF%20Location/DSC00680.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20AF%20Location/DSC00681.jpg
Just to see how it'd look, I've sat the airfilter on the inner arch
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20AF%20Location/DSC00683.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20AF%20Location/DSC00684.jpg
Since the lower piece won't need to move anymore I removed the masking tape and fixed it permantly
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20AF%20Location/DSC00685.jpg
Next thing I've done is much to my annoyence is sell the VNT and return to a normal type of turbo, I would love to have got the VNT working properly with EFi but time and money are now against me as I've bought a house, but the good news is I got 600quid for it, so that'll pay for the new turbo, the mods to fit it, the head work and the mapping and still leave 200quid after.
Thanks to JP who sold me his spare T25/28 hybrid
First things first you'll note the front housing is the same size as the front housing on my VNT (on the right), but its been matched to accept a slightly larger compressor wheel.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20Turbo/DSC00660.jpg
It had a few bits missing, oil return, oil feed, actuator, all easy fixes with my stock of old turbos, there's a hybrid T2, the starion turbo off my S13, an actualy S13 turbo and a Saarb turbo.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20Turbo/DSC00661.jpg
The Saarb turbo kindly donated its oil return.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20Turbo/DSC00662.jpg
The lack of actuator is no problem as I had no intention of using it, a quick chop of the mounting bracket and the actuator off the Starion turbo and I have all I need to sort it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20Turbo/DSC00666.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20Turbo/DSC00667.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20Turbo/DSC00668.jpg
A session with a blow torch and the metal is glowing orange, ready to be bent round the brackt to lock the wastegate shut.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20Turbo/08122009790.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20Turbo/08122009791.jpg
next job the coolant lines, my VNT didn't have water cooling, this one does, so out come the silicone coolant hoses, but there's a problem, one of the hoses is suposed to come from the carb but I don't have a carb any more, so out comes the stanley knife, some jubilee clips and some ally tubing, job done, nice shiney coolant lines.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20Turbo/DSC00670.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20Turbo/DSC00671.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20Turbo/DSC00673.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/New%20Turbo/DSC00675.jpg
With the relocation of the header tank to the scuttle area a number of coolant lines will pass through the area the factory oil catch can would sit, so its gotta be moved, out came some old ally sheet and I made up this mount, should do the job nicely
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/OilCatchCanMount2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/OilCatchCanMount.jpg
While I've got the car in bits I'm also thinking about the handling side of things, for a long time I've had to have the front colover set fairly stiff to stop the body rol, even with polly bushes on the antiroll bar.
I've been looking at the mk1 megane and its much larger roll bar and weather it could be made to fit an R5, a quick trip to a scrappy and 5quid later I have a mk1 megane roll bar
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/DSC00733.jpg
Now all I need is the time to make it fit
what does the bar measure ? I thought the R5 non-turbo models were on the whole bigger than the GT Turbo bar.
what does the bar measure ? I thought the R5 non-turbo models were on the whole bigger than the GT Turbo bar.
Well the stock one on mine was 19mm, the megane job is 25mm, only a 6mm increase but with polly bushes should do the job nicely.
I think the ends will need chopping down abit but should work, can't see why not, I took it off the car myself and the subframe was near as damnit the same as a GTT's
Alastair
18-01-2010, 00:02
Well the stock one on mine was 19mm, the megane job is 25mm, only a 6mm increase but with polly bushes should do the job nicely.
I think the ends will need chopping down abit but should work, can't see why not, I took it off the car myself and the subframe was near as damnit the same as a GTT's
Should fit ok with a bit of a chop ;) Although i would be interested in measuring the stiffness of a few ARBs, i tried doing a deflection test in my vice with various bars but couldnt get repeatable readings...
Should fit ok with a bit of a chop ;) Although i would be interested in measuring the stiffness of a few ARBs, i tried doing a deflection test in my vice with various bars but couldnt get repeatable readings...
Would be interesting to get exact figures but in the absense of those I'll go for bigger is better, morning ladies;)
BluntyR5GTT
18-01-2010, 08:01
iv just spent quite a bit of time reading through this thread and boy has it been a rollercoaster if only you had put a normal turbo on there in the first place lol, what is the actual sepc of the engine, and how much has it cost to do the efi conversion if you dont mind me asking
Andrew Cooke
18-01-2010, 13:22
Well the stock one on mine was 19mm, the megane job is 25mm, only a 6mm increase but with polly bushes should do the job nicely.
I think the ends will need chopping down abit but should work, can't see why not, I took it off the car myself and the subframe was near as damnit the same as a GTT's
When you find that doesn't fit grab yourself a williams/R19 bar, it's 23mm. You'll need to trim and reshape the ends a bit, but I'm sure it'll fit (I use one on my widetrack).
When you find that doesn't fit grab yourself a williams/R19 bar, it's 23mm. You'll need to trim and reshape the ends a bit, but I'm sure it'll fit (I use one on my widetrack).
:agree:
i was told to use that bar
Woznaldo
19-01-2010, 07:44
When you find that doesn't fit grab yourself a williams/R19 bar, it's 23mm. You'll need to trim and reshape the ends a bit, but I'm sure it'll fit (I use one on my widetrack).
Just to clarify, does it need to be R19 '16v' model?
Just to clarify, does it need to be R19 '16v' model?
Its a good bet as that was the range topper, now to find one in a scrappy, thats gunna be fun
Andrew Cooke
19-01-2010, 13:13
Just to clarify, does it need to be R19 '16v' model?
good point, I *think* so..
Right progress this year has been slow, well actually I've done feck all on the car this year, so I've pulled my finger out and got on with a few things.
First off cheers to Scoff for the excellent uprated rear engine mount, looks the nuts in red
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Newrearmount.jpg
Got that in place straight away
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/newmountinplace.jpg
Also fitted some clips to the brake lines to tidy them up abit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Brakepipeclips.jpg
This is kinda how the coolant lines have been routed, there's still bits I gotta do before there finished though
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/newcoolantroute2.jpg
markey b
02-02-2010, 15:23
Its a good bet as that was the range topper, now to find one in a scrappy, thats gunna be fun
i had one at mine for bloody ages..... now its been scrapped.... i had the whole subframe with arms, hubs and shocks etc from my old cabby
i had one at mine for bloody ages..... now its been scrapped.... i had the whole subframe with arms, hubs and shocks etc from my old cabby
one word for yo Butterworth....... PPPPPPPRRRRRRRRIIIIIIIIICCCCCCCKKKKKKKKKK
one word for yo Butterworth....... PPPPPPPRRRRRRRRIIIIIIIIICCCCCCCKKKKKKKKKK
gta be faster than that ollie you wollie!!!
:cooter:
gta be faster than that ollie you wollie!!!
:cooter:
I'd better run more boost then :burnrubber:
Right been at it again
Since the header tank is now sitting in the scuttle area I figured I should give it a clean
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Scuttleclean.jpg
Both the coolant lines from the heater matrix are now finished and fixed
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Coolantrun.jpg
Turns out OCD can be usefull, its a damn sight cleaner than it was before I started
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/OCD.jpg
markey b
04-02-2010, 18:43
lookin good oli!
dont suppose u got any spare alley tubing for the header relocation :p
lookin good oli!
dont suppose u got any spare alley tubing for the header relocation :p
You wanting to do the same are ya?
I do have some left yeah, you'll need lots of jubilee clips, some rubber gromets and alot of patience aswell
markey b
05-02-2010, 00:35
yeah, been meaning too for ages but too lazy to work out pipe sizes lol
yeah, been meaning too for ages but too lazy to work out pipe sizes lol
You lazy git, wait for me to do it then take advantage of everything I've learned:rolleyes:
I guess I could help ya
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BMS1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BMS2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BMS3.jpg
Yay my BigJim downpipe turned up today and I gotta say its fecking beautiful, fits perfect, gives about 20mm of clearance of my ktec manifold (thank god, was quite worried about that) and best of all it lifts the centre section up 2inches meaning the exhaust doesn't hang down below the normal lower line of the car, so no more scrapes on speed bumps or during high speed B road blasts :D
Gotta heat wrap it and fit proper like but its utter sex in metal
Loving the project keep up the good work:cooter:
Got some proper pics taken of the downpipe
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BJDP2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BJDP3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BJDP.jpg
compared to the ktec downpipe I had before
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/OVN.jpg
heat wrapped
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/HWAF.jpg
and fitted
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/HWAF2.jpg
clearence off the ketc manifold
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/HWAF3.jpg
the new found clearence underneth
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/HWAF4.jpg
the ktec exhaust manifold flange was massivelley thick compared to the inlet manifold flange and caused a minor leak, so to solve that I attacked the manifold with an angle grinder and took enough metal to even them up abit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FA3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FA.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FA2.jpg
Right more stuff done and gettin bloody close to finishing it :D
Firsthings first, over night parts from Shanghi
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/ONPFS.jpg
A quick cut
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/TCTH.jpg
And my airbox is finally finished
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FAFE2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FAFE3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FAFE.jpg
Next up the head, I'd dropped it off at a machine shop back at the start of january for new inlet valve guides, face skim, 3 angle cut valve seats and valves cut in, when I went to pick it up I got abit of bad news, turns out the exhaust valve in no.4 was bent and had cracked the valve guide :cry: dowt you could see it in the pic, I could hardly tell with it in my hand
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Bentvalve.jpg
Anyway after a brieff moment thinking, damn the head is scrap and I need to clean my spare head up, they delivered good news, they'd already fitted a new valve and exhaust guide, done all the other bits and made sure it was in perfect working order, top fellas they are at Randalls
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/RFH.jpg
Last but not least, I decided to give a few metal pipes a clean and repaint, after an hour of rubbing with a high grit aluminium oxide paper, a couple of coats of primer applied
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Newshineybits2.jpg
Next 6 coats of red
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Newshineybits.jpg
They still need to dry fully before I can lacquar them though
Andrew Cooke
09-02-2010, 22:51
do you have washers under the manifold nuts? It doesn't look like it, I think you should have.
btw, I've made stepped washers in the past to correct for differences in manifold thickness :)
do you have washers under the manifold nuts? It doesn't look like it, I think you should have.
btw, I've made stepped washers in the past to correct for differences in manifold thickness :)
I do normally, the manifold was bolted to my spare head at that point to make sure everything fitted properly
I'm at the stage now that I need to prep the head before it gets bolted on, so we'll start by making it look nice
THe end plate and belt guide repainte in red
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/ENDPPaint.jpg
Stripped the inlet manifold and cleaned it up
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/CUM.jpg
One of the new oil breather hoses
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/OBH.jpg
The end plate reassembled
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EPF.jpg
The head half built
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/HAS1.jpg
The head back together and ready to go
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/HAS2.jpg
looking good, do you run an external wastegate then?
looking good, do you run an external wastegate then?
Have done since july last year, I coulda done away with it with this turbo but I love the sound it makes so much plus its a 37mm gate where as the internal gate on the turbo was only 28mm so it'll be able to control the boost alot easyer
Got quite abit more done to the car, the new 285degree piper cam and adjustable vernier are in and timed up, thanks Handy Andy.
Was gunna spend all out the weekend just gone get it back together but not all went to plan, thursday night while undoing the clutch cover plate bolts 2 snapped off in the flywheel, leading to this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EF.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EF2.jpg
Ohwell got on with a couple of other bits, the old clutch cable was abit cooked and when I got it out was 20mm longer than the brand new one I got from renault :shock:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/OCC2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/OCC.jpg
I've fitted a soft pedel conversion to the clutch to make it alittle better to drive
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/SPA.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/SPC.jpg
Went to a scrappy with Andy to lend a hand pulling a few bits he needed off a motor and had a stroke of luck, found an R5 with nearly brand new headlights
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/NHL.jpg
And it also had a mint condition rocker cover, it even still had the sticker for the plug gap on it
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/NRC.jpg
Got those for 30quid, not bad considering 1 new headlight is 60quid
Had a result on ebay and got a chrome altenator bracket for a fiver
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/CAB.jpg
Got alot of stuff yesturday, the head is back on and for the most part the engine is built back up but the stainless gasket I had for the manifold to turbo has gone missing, which is really annoying cus I put it with the turbo elbow gasket and thats still there.
The new clutch arm is very close to the rad fan but clears the rad itself just fine, another 10mm longer and I'd have to move the fan but it should be ok
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/CAC.jpg
I got some new 6mm vacuum hose instead of the 4mm I've been using up to now for the wastegate lines plus I've also routed it in a way so it looks abit less tatty but I'm gunna add some little clips to tidy it up some more
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/NWVP.jpg
Here's the new layout albeit still needing some bits finishing
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/NRLO.jpg
Had a result on ebay last night, I got a GT Tuning ram raid induction kit for an R5, back in the day these were dyno proven to gain 7bhp, Its gunna need alittle bit of modding to sit behind my airbox but should go nicely
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTRR.jpg
Update time, I've modded the GTTtunning ram raid kit to suit my carbon airbox and hopefully improved its flow aswell, I'll post up some pics of that when I have 5 mins.
I've had the car running and on the road for 3 days now as a shaked down to make sure everything is right and when I say shake down I mean SHAKE down, Scoff, your rear engine mount is excellent mate and would be absolutely perfect for a drag and track only car but I think its just that little bit to stiff for a semi road car, shame it looks the muts nuts, oh well my fault for thinking it would be ok on the road.
Can't believe how quick this day has come round, its monday 22nd march and I'm off to Emerald for mapping, fingers crossed all will go well, I'm confident the engine will be ok, its the gearbox that concerns me right now.
Expected power, well I was hoping for around 220bhp but Handy Andy seems to think it'll be 235bhp min, I'm not so sure but hey we've bet a dominos pizza on the result:agree:
markey b
22-03-2010, 14:50
i recon what ever it comes out at, it'll still be less than my ginger one :cooter:
Adey aka Ewok
22-03-2010, 17:04
how she do?
i recon what ever it comes out at, it'll still be less than my ginger one :cooter:
:laugh:...always go for the ginger or feisty red ones for a bit of fun..:cooter:
TNT ANDY
22-03-2010, 17:33
:laugh:...always go for the ginger or feisty red ones for a bit of fun..:cooter:
gingers rule!!!
C'mon Oli - Watcha get
:confused:
markey b
22-03-2010, 18:27
once you've posted figures, then work out bhp per £ spent.... :cooter:
just kiddin dude, i have alot of time for your old wagon :agree:
This is the standard GTTuning ram raid induction kit, basically a K&N element for a R5 GTT with a throttle body trumpet in one end.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTRR.jpg
But this is the down fall, the trumpet starts a good 2inches up inside the filter
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT3.jpg
Stripped down
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT2.jpg
Cardboard template
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT5.jpg
Bottom plate
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT4.jpg
Repositioned trumpet
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT6.jpg
And the filter in its new home
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/GTT9.jpg
After mapping today I had to give it a squirt on the way home and at 14psi it decided to brake its own bonnet mounts at the front and make a bid for freedom :shock:
So abit of modding is in order, the standard bonnet mount with the factory circlip
removed for quick release
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BP1.jpg
Abit of drilling and a clip, job done
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/BP2.jpg
TrixNFlix
22-03-2010, 19:22
Nice work oliver, you've got some good ideas, i like alot.:):agree:
I guess its time to report on the mapping
Well it started fairly badly, having damaged an intercostal muscle (I can't spell so don't say it) I couldn't investigate a misfire the car had under a certain amount of throttle, I had to hope it was just down to the fact the car now has a piper 285 cam, ported head and new turbo and needed mapping but alas it wasn't.
At first Dave thought it was the overlap on the cam being to much but a quick check of valve lift disproved that, so he got down to some mind bending mapping work, the guy is bloody impressive to watch.
Although it wasn't a mapping issue Dave was able to map around it as such until a time as I can Id the problem and sort it so he can finish the job properly.
I asked Dave to set the car up with 3 boost levels, 8psi for day to day driving and motorway crusing, 14psi for track use and 22psi for drag use.
Well best get on with the results, can't tell you how much it made at 8psi as I forgot that print out.
At 14psi it made 169.9bhp and 172.4ft lb
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/14PSI.jpg
And at 22psi it made 211.5bhp and 203ft lb
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/22PSI.jpg
Now straight away looking at those graphs you can see somit ain't right as the power drops off fast after around 5500rpm to 6000rpm, Dave is convinced the cam is too wild to work properly with my efi plenum but I think the cam timing is out so at some point I'm gunna have to whip the timing cover off and go over it to find out for sure.
In the mean time, I'm off, gotta go find me a scooby to waste :D
Andrew Cooke
22-03-2010, 20:03
does he know that a 285cam doesn't have 285deg duration?
you might want to show him this:
http://www.rtoc.org/cam/?cam=std+GTT+2&lsa=&cam2=Piper+285&lsa2=112&rocker=1.5&advance=0&vc=0.2
do you have an original 285 with 112deg LSA or the newer one with 110deg? Either way that's a pretty mild cam.
does he know that a 285cam doesn't have 285deg duration?
you might want to show him this:
http://www.rtoc.org/cam/?cam=std+GTT+2&lsa=&cam2=Piper+285&lsa2=112&rocker=1.5&advance=0&vc=0.2
do you have an original 285 with 112deg LSA or the newer one with 110deg? Either way that's a pretty mild cam.
When I told him he dissappered off for 20mins and came back after calling piper and getting the specs direct from them, he then change his mind about the overlap and began looking at other things.
It was the 285 out of Handy Andy's old engine, you'd have to ask him which one it is
Andrew Cooke
22-03-2010, 20:15
do you have access to the fuel and ignition maps?
do you have access to the fuel and ignition maps?
Can do, just gotta pick up me laptop tomorrow and I can send em to ya
Right I have a list of things to check they may have caused the problems from yesterday, but I'd like ideas from you guys on what it could be so I'll try and discribe the problem as best I can.
At low rpm under heavy load it misfires continusly but will rev past it and rev cleanly after all the way upto 7000rpm
The power drops off fast after 5500-6000rpm but with a 285cam and a turbo of this size it should keep pulling beyond 7000rpm
The idle speed is all over the place and sometimes it will cut out at juctions and the like
And finally its not making the power it should, JP and Handy Andy recon its at least 20bhp down
Any ideas?
Main jet too big... :wasntme:
Sorry, I'm not able to help but I've been more interested in this project again in the last few months since you've been more focused again. Good luck getting it sorted. It must already be bloomin' fast.
Main jet too big... :wasntme:
Sorry, I'm not able to help but I've been more interested in this project again in the last few months since you've been more focused again. Good luck getting it sorted. It must already be bloomin' fast.
put it this way, there's a section of duel carriageway near me thats used for cough testing cough, and it just blew my old best top speed into the weeds at only 14psi, I'm too scared to use 22psi yet:scared:
This is the ignition map at 22psi
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Ignition.jpg
A this is the injection map at 22psi
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Injection.jpg
TNT ANDY
24-04-2010, 11:56
Hi Oli,
Just looking at your maps there, am I reading this right??? It looks like you're too rich top end, I would have thought that 12.00 - 12.50 afr would be more in the park for max power. :confused:
Looks like you're at about 10.25 WOT Maybe a little too safe:confused:
it looks too rich as it's spooling too. leaning it out a little there will help spool the turbo. your ignition map looks fine enough on the whole, up until about 80% tps, then you have more timing going in ? Thats quite a bit of timing for a C1J, are you low compression ?
no scoff he is running standard compression, seems strange as hi five is running a similar set up, could it be his throttle body causing the probs, as it has a 75mm tall neck on it before hits the body of the manifold,(all of the over inlet manifolds used seem to have the throttle body directly fitted to inlet )maybe causing flow issues?:confused:seems strange how everybody else with efi has no probs with the 285 cams, oli is also running a cheap fuel pressure reg which may also be adding to probs (90%) duty cycle@22psi, any ideas ? i am only guessing here:scared:
forgot to add cam was at 110 when fitted ,think oli has tryed 6 +/-degrees to see if it made any difference:crap: he also had this misfire (problem )with his old vnt ,but the t28 seems to have highlighted the problem more sinse being fitted:confused:
Right best I clear up a few details
1) The missfire isn't a mapping issue and Dave did his best to map around it which means some of the numbers aren't perfect for the engine
2) Although I'm using standad comp pistons the head has had a couple skims so if anything the comp ratio is up
3) The missfire I had with the VNT was in the same missfire I have now but I only had a 275cam then, I'm guessing with a 285cam its showing up more
4) The fuel pressure reg isn't great but it is holding enough pressure to do the job so thats not the cause, but I'm still going to change it as its a cheap and nasty piece of kit and I'd rather not loose an engine due to a cheapo reg
5) I've gone over everything I can think of that may cause the missfire and the only thing I haven't been able to disprove is the flow design of the inlet manifold, fortunatly TNT Ross has come up trumps with one of those modded stock gtt manifolds with the injectors mounted in some exteneded runners, so I'm try that and see what happens
Hi Oli
I definately think you need to re visit the timing > 80% throttle, it looks a bit scary to me. I'm assuming Dave monitored for knock when mapping your motor ? Maybe the over rich AFR is calming things down :)
When you say misfire, do you mean ignition or injector related ? Can you log a pull to check that the ECU isn't loosing sight of the crank etc ? Does it only happen at a specific RPM then clear ?
no scoff he is running standard compression, seems strange as hi five is running a similar set up, could it be his throttle body causing the probs, as it has a 75mm tall neck on it before hits the body of the manifold,(all of the over inlet manifolds used seem to have the throttle body directly fitted to inlet )maybe causing flow issues?:confused:seems strange how everybody else with efi has no probs with the 285 cams, oli is also running a cheap fuel pressure reg which may also be adding to probs (90%) duty cycle@22psi, any ideas ? i am only guessing here:scared:
Honestly don't know andy, all I can tell you is that I took my time with glenn's to make sure that it was as good as it could be. I wouldn't worry too much about the duty, AFR's in the 10's might explain most or all of that. I guess fuel pressure was checked under load too ?
I've tried the standard timing map you sent me Scoff and the miss is still there so I don't think its a mapping problem.
Yeah Dave monitored for knock.
Dave showed me the log at the end of the day so I could see it wasn't anything to do with the ecu (he's had a few people say its his fault but it turns out was thiers) I'll admit Dave proberbly doesn't know enough about the C1J to map it perfectly but the basics are still the same as any other engine.
It happens from around 2400rpm to 3200rpm but only at more than a quater throttle it will miss but will rev past and pull clean all the way to 7000rpm.
I've had the injectors flow tested which came back clear, I've tried a dozen different spark plugs, no change, HT leads have been changed twice, no change, the coil pack has been changed again no change.
The thing that makes me think manifold aswell is the fact the power drops off fast after 5500rpm-6000rpm even though the turbo is still holding boost perfectly, JP said somit about it still making more power after 7000rpm so it can't be that.
Tell ya what Scoff, if this manifold of Ross's doesn't sort it, at Frog of the pod I'll take you for a blast and you can see for yourself
Earths, fuel filter?
I've had extra earths to my engine and the associated electrics ever since I bought it.
The fuel filter was brand new when I did the conversion, is still mint
What about the ECU? How is that earthed?
What about the ECU? How is that earthed?
Earthed through its own casing to the metal work next to the battery and has a dedicated earth the battery as per the Emerald instructions
Oli, OK seems a bit weird doesn't it. Can you not be sure that it's an ignition cut or a fuel thing ? Is it just lacking power or is it popping a lot out of the exhaust ?
What sort of dwell do you have set for your coil(s) ? (sorry, can't remember if you were wasted spark or not)
Oli, OK seems a bit weird doesn't it. Can you not be sure that it's an ignition cut or a fuel thing ? Is it just lacking power or is it popping a lot out of the exhaust ?
What sort of dwell do you have set for your coil(s) ? (sorry, can't remember if you were wasted spark or not)
Its a full on missfire, engine struggles for s second then clears, puffs of smoke out the exhaust, power drop off all the usual signs of a missfire.
I have no idea on dwell, wouldn't even know where to look but I can ask Dave.
Its a single ford zetec coil pack with wasted spark.
I've got a new fuel pressure reg as the old one was a little bit cheap for my liking, plus it was a pig to set up the pressure.
I've also borrowed a different efi manifold to test weather its my manifold or not, got abit of fabrication to get the air temp sensor relocated and a new throttle cable clamp but should be up and running in a few days
Right some progres, well I say progress more like doing right what should have been done right first time over a year ago :mad: The guy who made the parts for my EFI connversion has caused me nothing but grief and he will get whats coming to him and before anyone makes any comments along the lines 'I told you so' just feck off because that isn't very helpfull.
First off the fuel pressure regulator which I was told was a exspensive quality part that was going to go on his Lancer turned out to be a 22quid job off ebay
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Nigels%20Screw%20ups/FPR.jpg
Then he over tightened the -6 fuel hose fittings stripping half the threads causing a minor leak
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Nigels%20Screw%20ups/FPR2.jpg
And then to finish it off he drilled and tapped 2 holes in the side for the mounting bracket, these holes went right into the body of the regulator and when I took it off petrol came out, this is the worst bit about it as the regulator was holding the fuel at 3bar of pressure at idle wnd that would rise the boost pressure increased
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Nigels%20Screw%20ups/FPR3.jpg
Next thing he did wrong that I'm sorting now is the inlet manifold that he spent a year designing and making and told me his friend who worked for a wrc team flow tested it. I asked a mate Alex to have a quick look at it on the car and what he said made me take it off and get it checked for myself.
What the guy had to tell me was not good, he looked at it for about 30seconds before saying it was scrap metal and that there was no point flow testing it, I asked him to do it anyway and test a standard GTT inlet manifold, the results that came back were aweful, in his opinion I was better off going back to a carb than to continue with this manifold the the carb manifold although not great flowed better and more evenly across the cyclinders than the EFI one.
You can see from this pic the throttle boddy is not centrel the runners causing the outer 2 to get less air, infact no.4 hardly got any. You can also see that throttle body is not fitted directly to the plenum chamber but on a sort of tube causing the air going in to be aimed at the inner 2 cyclinders.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Nigels%20Screw%20ups/Manifold2.jpg
This is the view down the throttle body hole showing the poor welding that came through to the inside, unfortunaly this is the best bit but I can't get a clear pic of the worst bits.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Nigels%20Screw%20ups/Manifold3.jpg
This is the view just inside the head end of the runners, you can see the inside of the runner hasn't been blended into the flange, infact there is a ridge that causes a flow disruption.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/Nigels%20Screw%20ups/Manifold.jpg
To most the problems above would cause the end of a project or at the very least make them go back to a carb, but after getting 40+ mpg and over 200bhp with a dodgy manifold and regulator I figure its best to finish what I've started.
My first job the fuel pressure regulator, a quick call to a supplier and I have a FSE motorsport regulator with -6 fittings sitting on my doorstep, unfortunatly thier idea of red looks more pink to me :( but hey aslong as it works I'm happy.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EFI%20sort%20out/DSC01058.jpg
I made a decent bracket for that doesn't move around or require drilling holes in the regulator.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EFI%20sort%20out/DSC01057.jpg
This is the new manifold, it use the throttle body from a Lancia Delta Intergrale but needs a few mods to make everything fit right.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EFI%20sort%20out/DSC01059.jpg
Some more pics of the new setup.
First off the new throttle cable clamp, see Nigel very simple piece of angle ally with some holes in it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EFI%20sort%20out/TL.jpg
This bit has all the vacuum ports on it plus the two one way valves at the rear for the brake servo and breather system
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EFI%20sort%20out/OWVP.jpg
The new manifold with my injectors and fuel rail fitted and a much better injector angle pointing almost straight at the back of the valves.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EFI%20sort%20out/Newinlet.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EFI%20sort%20out/RONI.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EFI%20sort%20out/SONI.jpg
And here you can see how it looks fitted, just gotta get Alex to chop off a pipe from the throttle body and balnk the hole and weld abit of ally on a boost pipe so I can tap it for the air temp sensor and then I can try it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EFI%20sort%20out/IIP.jpg
Tony Walker
13-05-2010, 22:13
Dont want to sound negative on the old manifold, but even with my limited manifold knowledge that looks a million times better. Great project mate and love your enthusiasm lol Glad you kept your chin up after all that crap.
Dont want to sound negative on the old manifold, but even with my limited manifold knowledge that looks a million times better. Great project mate and love your enthusiasm lol Glad you kept your chin up after all that crap.
Yep, just wish I'd done all the work myself the first time round and I coulda saved loads of cash and time.
The manifold I'm using now is basically a modded GTT manifold so can't go to far wrong, would like to know who made it though
Andrew Cooke
13-05-2010, 22:53
Yep, just wish I'd done all the work myself the first time round and I coulda saved loads of cash and time.
The manifold I'm using now is basically a modded GTT manifold so can't go to far wrong, would like to know who made it though
I forget his name, chap in Ireland, he's being doing all sorts of interesting castings from twin solex, to SU, to EFI. It'll come to me :ashamed:
TNT Tricky Nicky
13-05-2010, 22:58
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/member.php?u=349
that's the guy
Andrew Cooke
13-05-2010, 23:05
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/member.php?u=349
that's the guy
:agree:
Excellent, cheers Tricky Nicky
BluntyR5GTT
14-05-2010, 15:58
just read all through this thread brilliant project and iv got the biggest respect for you not giving up when hitting problems and actually making a 100 times better set up in process :agree: should hike the power up a bit as well
TNT ANDY
14-05-2010, 19:49
Looking v-good Oli - did it go on ok? Mine was a chore to get on due to poor machining round where the nuts tighten onto the studs. Could hardly get a spanner onto most of them.
Keep up the good work chappy.
Andy
Needed abit of a filing to a get a spanner on but that I was ok with that, it was getting it bolted to the head that was the Asre of a job, would be easy with the head off but I didn't want to waste a gasket just to save abit of skin :wasntme:
TNT ANDY
15-05-2010, 08:48
Needed abit of a filing to a get a spanner on but that I was ok with that, it was getting it bolted to the head that was the Asre of a job, would be easy with the head off but I didn't want to waste a gasket just to save abit of skin :wasntme:
1-2-3------- skin
Thats you that is!
Are you going with the 60mm throttle body? Will this not be a bit snappy? I've no evidence as to whether this will be so, but it seems to be an issue amongst fellow tuners in the 1.4 engine. I had an adapter made up and am using a 40mm Mondeo jobby.
BluntyR5GTT
15-05-2010, 13:19
a good compromise between andy and os throttle bodies could be a 48mm or 52mm tb off a k series engine (52mm was on the zr160)
I had a 55mm mitsubishi starion body before and at first I thought it was snappy but after a couple of weeks it became like second nature, yeah there proberbly is a point at which openning the throttle any further makes no difference as the engine can't flow enough air but I'm not really bothered, the fact is it made over 200bhp, did 40+mpg, was smooth to drive in town, cruised along at 70mph on motorways without even blinking and did all that with some pretty serious problems, can't wait to see what it'll do now those problems have been sorted
Top staying power :agree: Looking forward to your next session on the road/rollers.
looking much much better :) the new manifold is one of michael's castings i'd say, sorry if I missed you saying you knew that already.
looking much much better :) the new manifold is one of michael's castings i'd say, sorry if I missed you saying you knew that already.
Had been mentioned but thats ok.
Would like to know if anyone else has tried one yet and if so how well did it work, is there anything I need to keep an yeye for
Got a hold of Alex saturday morning, he nipped to his workshop and did the bits I needed even though he wasn't gunna be there, top bloke, cheers fella :thumbleft:
This is what he did, the throttle body with the pipe removed and a proper bung made
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EFI%20sort%20out/DSC01066.jpg
The new boost pipe with abit welded on the side so I can drill and tap it to take the air temp sensor
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EFI%20sort%20out/DSC01070.jpg
Gave the boost pipe a go with my ally polishing wheel and this is how everything now looks
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/EFI%20sort%20out/DSC01073.jpg
With help from Handy Andy I got the 5 idlin smoothly on thursday night and the fuelin safe up to 7k at 7psi at full throttle, although its not a perfect map across the rev range at part throttle as I found out on the way to Pod on friday mornin as exactly at the right revs and throttle load for crusing at 70mph was abit lean but thanks to my latest ebay purchase a laptop costin 21quid I was able to adjust the map enough to make it safe.
I dont know everything about mapping but I know enough to map it safe using a base gtt ignition map I got from Scoff, thanks again Scoff:agree: top work on your 10.3
Right its been 2weeks since I got the manifold setup running and there have been no problems, this makes me concerned as my 5 runs its best right before it blows up spectacually lol.
Anyway I haven't been able to do much map tweaking as the battery in my newely aquired laptop lasts for about half a second :( so I've gotta buy a new one but I have been able to tweak it a little by using a inverter but that doesn't seem to like hard acceleration :D
home from FCS 2010 and fellin smug
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/FCS2010trophey.jpg
Tony Walker
13-06-2010, 23:43
Congrats, :)
jesus in the seat of a 5
14-06-2010, 06:25
well done oli, you deserve that buddy, keep up the good work my ole friend, was good to see you sunday.....:)
Thanks peeps.
jebus let me know how you get on with the wiring and altenator on ya cup car, can't be having that on a trallior all day and not blasting round a track
R5GT-GOO
14-06-2010, 10:30
:agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::)
well done!!!!
TNT ANDY
23-06-2010, 22:30
Far too much, mostl cus I did it myself and learnt what does and doesn't work by blowing it up half a dozen times lol
And............................................... .....................................
C'mon now Oli - it wasn't all you fault.
And............................................... .....................................
C'mon now Oli - it wasn't all you fault.
Ok over the last year the problems with the car have been Nigels fault but before that 80% of the blow ups have been down to my lack of knowlodge, the other 20% would be down to the piss poor advice from BBPT and thE ****e parts they provided
Yay I've had some work to do on the car http://torque.myfreeforum.org/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif http://torque.myfreeforum.org/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif http://torque.myfreeforum.org/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif
Failed its MOT on saturday so I've been sorting the repairs, both bottom ball joints were shot and the rear brake pipes have been kinked where the torsion bar hit the chassis legs during a spirited launch over a hump back bridge lol
All done now, just gotta get it retested on saturday http://torque.myfreeforum.org/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif
Tony Walker
06-08-2010, 22:13
lol spirited?? u must of been aiming for the heavens.
lol spirited?? u must of been aiming for the heavens.
Maybe a little ;)
Maybe a little ;)
:dearme:
Its been awhile since I last posted about any problems with the 5, because its been running sweat as:D............................. until last week :(
First off the heater matrix I fitter 2 years ago shat itself into the passenger foot well so thats by passed for now.
There's a knock coming from the passenger side front wheel, I think its wheel bearing, again.
The gearbox is getting worse and its getting harder and harder to select a gear.
The part throttle problem hasn't got any worse but it is annoying me so that needs sorting.
And I'm fed up with having a silly hard ride just so the car will handle.
The oil leak last year did more damage than I thought as the bottom end is just starting to make itself heard.
So this is my plan for christmas time
Engine out
Build up spare block with balanced crank, new bearings, new rings, forged pistons and the 215mm clutch conversion.
Smaller throttle body to reduce the snappyness low down, I think 60mm is just to big on an engine that factory had a 25mm, I recon a 45mm will be a good compramise between power and driveability.
New gearbox, a GTT box would be nice but I'm looking into early laguna diesel boxes for the longer 4th and 5th gears.
Strip, straighten, smooth and repaint engine bay.
Clio 16v wide track conversion to give 35mm extra width and a thicker anti roll bar.
Longer front springs to raise the front 15 maybe 20mm so the coilovers can be softened abit.
Raise the rear torsion bar 25mm to give a more factory suspension geometry.
New front tyres as I can't drive round on R888's all the time.
Dashboard out to replace heater matrix and find out why the side air vents don't do anyhing anymore.
Not alot but hey I need somit to do on the cold winter nights:(
TNT ANDY
10-10-2010, 18:10
Its been awhile since I last posted about any problems with the 5, because its been running sweat as:D............................. until last week :(
First off the heater matrix I fitter 2 years ago shat itself into the passenger foot well so thats by passed for now.
There's a knock coming from the passenger side front wheel, I think its wheel bearing, again.
The gearbox is getting worse and its getting harder and harder to select a gear.
The part throttle problem hasn't got any worse but it is annoying me so that needs sorting.
And I'm fed up with having a silly hard ride just so the car will handle.
The oil leak last year did more damage than I thought as the bottom end is just starting to make itself heard.
So this is my plan for christmas time
Engine out
Build up spare block with balanced crank, new bearings, new rings, forged pistons and the 215mm clutch conversion.
Smaller throttle body to reduce the snappyness low down, I think 60mm is just to big on an engine that factory had a 25mm, I recon a 45mm will be a good compramise between power and driveability.
New gearbox, a GTT box would be nice but I'm looking into early laguna diesel boxes for the longer 4th and 5th gears.
Strip, straighten, smooth and repaint engine bay.
Clio 16v wide track conversion to give 35mm extra width and a thicker anti roll bar.
Longer front springs to raise the front 15 maybe 20mm so the coilovers can be softened abit.
Raise the rear torsion bar 25mm to give a more factory suspension geometry.
New front tyres as I can't drive round on R888's all the time.
Dashboard out to replace heater matrix and find out why the side air vents don't do anyhing anymore.
Not alot but hey I need somit to do on the cold winter nights:(
Sounds like a plan. And final mapping? you can't keep using the 'it hasn't been fully mapped' excuse when things don't go as well as expected.
I know but hopefully this time things will go better, baring any major problems I've covered everything.
With any luck it'll be ready for mapping in january
been trying to find a gearbox for the 5 but haven't found one yet and fter going out in a mates astra vxr i've realised his car with only minor mods is as fast as mine with major mods and he can thrash his all day long without worry where as mine wouldn't last.
I'm tinking I may go down a different route in the new year but for now I have to do something about the oil leak and knackered gearbox so I will pull the engine out over chrismas just to sort these bits till I decided exactly what I'm going to do long term
Andrew Cooke
22-10-2010, 22:24
there were some nice oil puddles outside mine :D
Did you find out the code for the box you're thinking of?
Tony Walker
22-10-2010, 22:26
There will allways be someone faster, stick with the car you love :D, i drive different cars everyday, modern cars can and are very quick but have no where near the character.
Andrew Cooke
22-10-2010, 22:48
oh yeah, what's controlling your boost, and how is it all connected?
there were some nice oil puddles outside mine :D
Did you find out the code for the box you're thinking of?
Sorry about that:scared:
Nope, gotta ask Handy Andy, he's the man who knows
There will allways be someone faster, stick with the car you love :D, i drive different cars everyday, modern cars can and are very quick but have no where near the character.
True but I can't let a 5 get beaten by a vauxhall, I could spend loads more on a C1J and get it up to 260bhp maybe 280bhp and he wouldn't stand a chance but it'd keep dying
oh yeah, what's controlling your boost, and how is it all connected?
I have the same solinoid as you controlled by the ecu to work the external gate
True but I can't let a 5 get beaten by a vauxhall, I could spend loads more on a C1J and get it up to 260bhp maybe 280bhp and he wouldn't stand a chance but it'd keep dying
Just stick a different engine in there,I'm sure your setup would pay for a big chunk of the conversion.think my set up just about payed for mine,except mapping/wiring
Andrew Cooke
23-10-2010, 10:57
I have the same solinoid as you controlled by the ecu to work the external gate
ahhh, that will make the throttle snappy. If the ECU doesn't have throttle dependant boost try a separate boost controller with the sense and solenoid pipes on the intercooler side of the throttle. What happens is the ECU will be trying to hold the boost in the plenum, so the throttle won't do what it's supposed to do.
To be honest, even if the ECU has throttle dependant boost I'd still try a separate boost controller.
Short term try connecting the wategate up conventionally (with the pipe on the intercooler side of the throttle), maybe with a bleed valve, it won't spool as early as with a boost controller, but you'll see if it helps the throttle sensitivity.
ahhh, that will make the throttle snappy. If the ECU doesn't have throttle dependant boost try a separate boost controller with the sense and solenoid pipes on the intercooler side of the throttle. What happens is the ECU will be trying to hold the boost in the plenum, so the throttle won't do what it's supposed to do.
To be honest, even if the ECU has throttle dependant boost I'd still try a separate boost controller.
Short term try connecting the wategate up conventionally (with the pipe on the intercooler side of the throttle), maybe with a bleed valve, it won't spool as early as with a boost controller, but you'll see if it helps the throttle sensitivity.
I had the wastegate hooked up with a bleed valve before I hooked up the solinoid when I first fitted the current manifold, was about the same, I think the 60mm body is just too big, I good session in a scrap yard should turn up somit thats 45mm, I recon that'd be spot on
well the turbo toaster has gone and done it!!!:scared:
a f7r hybrid is soon to be powering his white phase 1:D
well i say soon , more like about march/april time next year:laugh:
just got to sort out pisons/ gearbox and log /tubby style manifold to bring the turbo around the side of cylinder head:)
sorry oswald if i spoilt your little secret;)
well the turbo toaster has gone and done it!!!:scared:
a f7r hybrid is soon to be powering his white phase 1:D
well i say soon , more like about march/april time next year:laugh:
just got to sort out pisons/ gearbox and log /tubby style manifold to bring the turbo around the side of cylinder head:)
sorry oswald if i spoilt your little secret;)
nah thats ok fella but this won't be happening that soon, end of next year more like, I want to get 1 last season in with the C1J now the efi is done I need to see what it can do before I go F7P
nah thats ok fella but this won't be happening that soon, end of next year more like, I want to get 1 last season in with the C1J now the efi is done I need to see what it can do before I go F7P
~~~~BANG!!!!~~~~:laugh::laugh:
I've had the 5 off the road for 3 weeks now but haven't done anything to it until today, with abit of help from Andy (more like standing around smoking fags and telling me to just drop the F7r in now) the engine is out and on a stand so I can't find and fix the oil leak, replace the clutch bearing, sort out the starter wiring thats got abit crispy and clean the bay of all the oil thats leaked.
Oh joy the next few weeks are gunna be messy:sad2:
:p a days work to fix and refit , pull your finger out (while i watch and smoke );):laugh:
:p a days work to fix and refit , pull your finger out (while i watch and smoke );):laugh:
Well I can't complain too much, you did pay for the MaccyD's.......................... wait a sec yes I can cus I gave you a fiver towards it :D
Tony Walker
12-12-2010, 00:57
Can you search for most viewed threads? This has nearly hit 10k
Yikes its been a while since I was on here and alot has happened.
First off over christmas I took out the C1J to sort an oil leak and replace the clutch bearing and while its was out I dummy fitted the F7 engine thats going to replace it later this year, it fitted just fine and I got on with refitting the C1J
and thats where everything went wrong:(
I've pulled apart that engine god knows how many times, I can practically put it together blind fold but the last few weeks things didnt go well, it took me a week to refit the starter and thats with the car up on axle stands, turbo off and no driveshafts :(
After that I find 1 of the clio 16v shafts I'm fitting has a CV boot held on with plastic cable ties:(
And then the thread on the gearbox filler hole strips out when I fit the plug:cry:
I broke the bolts that hold the downpipe to the rest of the system.
I lost 1 of the breather hoses.
1 of the studs in the back of the turbo sheared off.
And yet more of the wiring loom proved to be poorly made.
The can of petrol and box of matches insurance job started looking very tempting
:cool2::cool2: just hurry up and get saving for the f7 engine transplant , oh ive got big booossttt on its way:cooter:
:cool2::cool2: just hurry up and get saving for the f7 engine transplant , oh ive got big booossttt on its way:cooter:
Told ya Andy, i'm building up a stash of parts as we speak
On sunday MarkyB kindly opened his workshop so we could replace meater matrix.
Annoyingly this'll be the second time I've done it but this time went really well and the old matrix was disposed of in the proper manor, namely with a lump hammer.
Cheers for the assist there MrB, much appricated, as was the centre consol you donated, only problem it made my switch panel redundent and the switches didn't suit the new factoryesq look so I went on fleabay and ordered a pair of rocker switchs with built in LED's, they turned up today and I got busy with my dremil and fitted them to the blank the goes between the passenger window switch and the central locking switch.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/os8472/17022011647.jpg
Nice work mate good to see are your window switches connected and wired up now only ask as I am having a few probs putting mine on toggle switches
Nice work mate good to see are your window switches connected and wired up now only ask as I am having a few probs putting mine on toggle switches
I never disconnected the window switches, just made a new ally panel for them to sit in but never had room for the central locking switch.
What sorta problems you having?
Well the 5 has been up and running for 2 weeks now and apart from a dodgy sounding gearbox all seems well.
While the engine was out i replaced the throttle body to manifold gasket with gasket paste and she now idles alot smoother and slower, she's turning over at 600rpm, me thinks the was a air leak and with it now sorted i need to get the laptop out and tweak the idle settings aswell as set up the new boost soilnoid and then its time to give her some death :)
TNT ANDY
23-02-2011, 13:58
Good work Olski, you'll after get It properly mapped now.
Good work Olski, you'll after get It properly mapped now.
No point fella, the c1j won't be in there much longer, the cash is better spent on it's replacement
markey b
23-02-2011, 18:41
c1j = mission aborted :-(
s'pose it did cost a fortune in mapping ;-P
c1j = mission aborted :-(
s'pose it did cost a fortune in mapping ;-P
Wasn't that much but defo more than I'd planned on, shame really, I would've liked to have seen what it could do but I just can't justify spending anymore money on it.
Not when I can get so much more power more easly from an F7 with none of the reliability issues
then markey shouldnt be laughing at ya as much lol:burnrubber:
as long as it gana have a turbo?
then markey shouldnt be laughing at ya as much lol:burnrubber:
as long as it gana have a turbo?
Its always gunna have a turbo :D
Ah c0ck it, typical french, I knew it was going to well, less than 2 weeks on the road and she's spat her dummy out and split a coolant pipe at 120mph (on the track officer:scared:)
took all of half an hour to remove the cheap **** chinese coolant hose and replace it with a sfs job, all good and running again.
Spent the best part of last saturday at Mr Butterbeans unit whipping the gearbox and a few other choice parts of his black 5 he's breaking (cheers for those bits fella).
I swapped out the passenger side window motor to find it was slower than mine so mine went back in, i must of sacred it as its working perfectly now. Swapped out the drivers door lock because doesn't always unlock to find it now unlocks but doesn't lock even on the key, so thats me getting out the passenge side for now then.
Oh well at least the collection of f7r bits is going well
Just a few snaps of the F7R progress
some of the bits, including, head set, bottom end set, new dipstick tube, water pump and various new bolts
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.php?albumid=1316&pictureid=15193
An F7P Cam cover that was totally ****ed when i got it now nice and smooth and red with a home made carbon plug cover
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.php?albumid=1316&pictureid=15194
The engine dummy fitted with the turbo to the side but it won't be going there now
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.php?albumid=1316&pictureid=15195
:cooter::cooter: loving the cam
cover....... now get buying the rest,the french toast show is not that far away :D
:cooter::cooter: loving the cam
cover....... now get buying the rest,the french toast show is not that far away :D
Yeah I know, all in good time, block, crank and flywheel have to go away first, then its pistons and rods on order and building can comence :D
TNT ANDY
04-03-2011, 06:40
Yeah I know, all in good time, block, crank and flywheel have to go away first, then its pistons and rods on order and building can comence :D
Chop Chop Oli - want to get amongst it with you on the track, just to see how an EFI C1J stacks up against the FRFFFFRRRFRFRFRFRF.
Chop Chop Oli - want to get amongst it with you on the track, just to see how an EFI C1J stacks up against the FRFFFFRRRFRFRFRFRF.
Should be interesting, in the corners you should have the advantage due to the extra weight of the f7r over the c1j but because i'm using a relatively small turbo coming out of the corners i'll rain you back in and pass you on the straights, that is if you don't use a million psi of boost :)
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