View Full Version : help oil leak
Ok , my r5 has always had a oily side of the block, now i didnt realise jst how bad it was until i put my new yellow samcos on it and now the oil is very apparant. It seems to be flicking onto the aux belt and then all around the engine, now ive checked the obvious suspects and i cant see any split hoses etc. However i degreased the engine and then saw clearly after a short run that its dripping onto the subframe directly below the cover for the timing chain. Would i be right in suspecting there is a camseal behind there ? and could this be the problem.
If so how easy is it to change and where i get the part from. Thanks
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id be inclined to remove the timing cover,clean up the surfaces an stick it back
on with sikaflex or some stixall sealant,its a micropolymor sealant resistant to
oil an petrol,that will stop your leak.
:)
the timing cover is just a bead of silicon sealant and the crank seal is easy enough to do just take the pulley wheel off it has a 19mm bolt pull out the metal cap making sure you dont lose the little locating key and leaver out the old seal with a flat head place new one in and re assemble
the timing cover is just a bead of silicon sealant and the crank seal is easy enough to do just take the pulley wheel off it has a 19mm bolt pull out the metal cap making sure you dont lose the little locating key and leaver out the old seal with a flat head place new one in and re assemble
the bit that can fall into the sump you mean.
;)..im thinkin of somin else i think....
ah , well anybody have a part number for that cambelt seal, its probably worth me doind both , replacing the cam seal, and resealing the timing belt cover wont it ?
ah , well anybody have a part number for that cambelt seal, its probably worth me doind both , replacing the cam seal, and resealing the timing belt cover wont it ?
https://secure.gsfcarparts.com/shop/results.asp
also its chain driven not belt;)
Markey Mark (BD)
29-03-2009, 21:41
I recon it prob be crank seal in the timing cover too, remove the cover either way re-new the seal and re-seal the cover. Make sure you put a bead of sealent along the timing cover seal along the bottom, thats a common one for leaking too so you want it to seal up nicely against the sump.
awesome stuff, ill get the seal ordered and attack this asap.
does anybody have a part number for this seal. I can only find bottom end gasket sets. And im so skint at the monemt id much sooner only buy the part needed.
Alastair
08-04-2009, 10:17
DJ I think I have a spare in the garage, I can post it if you like. You'll need to buy some Thixo gasket paste from Renault bout a fiver. Pm me your address and if I find it I'll post it m8.
Well yesterday i resealed this, pug a new seal in it, and bolted it all up. On the rubber horse shoe section i removed it , fitted and put sealant above and underneath it. I then replaced the crank seal, and then gave it a full bead of silicon and refitted it making sure that it sat on the dowels etc. I found it really awkward to get into place and when fitted it appeared that the crank was not central in the seal. Anyway i fitted the pully and drove the car to work.....
Dissaster, oil everywhere, took the pulley back off and removed the cover again, turns out the pully not being central had caused it to wear straight thru the bottom of the seal, so now i need a new one of them :( gutted. Why am i finding this job so difficult, what am i doing wrong, i manage do headgaskets etc without any problems yet this silly thing im really struggling with :( really gutted as now ive gota find a lift to work until i get to order a new seal and work out whats up with my method.
It appears whenever i try to fit the timing cover, i really struggle to get the rubber U shaped seal as the bottom to stay on.
Some people drop the sump down slightly, put the timing chain cover on, then lift the sump back up to seal it to the bottom of the timing cover
ah hmm, maybe that would make sence, wont get knacker the sumps seal to the block though ?
yeah, you`d have to reseal the sump afterward
anyone tried removing the horseshoe seal entirely and filling the gap with sealant?
i know it would would work....
hmm, well ill call gsf to order a new bottom end gasket set later on and see how quickly they can get me one to get the car bk on road.
Well i got my new seal, removed and refittied it all, all the bolts are in , and the dowels are located correct , however im not 100% happy with the fit, the seal as pushed in flush using a block of wood, however the metal key section that slots in appears to have a diffrent clearance away from the seal. However saying that it dosent look to be centreted correctly.
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Please urgent opinions of whether it should be ok would be appreciated.
i was going to replace my crank seal. havent needed to yet. i found a lose breather hose on the rocker and think thats where the oil went.
on my spare engine what i looked at to see how easy the job would be the " metal key section" like you say does sit out further then the seal...
yea , the only thing is mine seems to sit out more at the top than the bottom , as though its possible bent.. although saying that i bet the timing cover may be bent instead.
btw there are about 3 types of timing cover ive seen over the years.
one type has the crank seal flush with the rest of the cover.
ther other type sticks out a bit further, and the other...sticks out further still!
anyone tried removing the horseshoe seal entirely and filling the gap with sealant?
i know it would would work....
Yep i have done that. My sump is a ph2 baffled job & there is no horseshoe seal on the original timing chain cover, only sealant:eek:
I fitted a bling chrome timing chain cover that requires the seal, no way the rubber would fit. The metal is tight against the sump, so i just thixo'd the gap & no leaks:agree:
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