stuTHC
24-02-2009, 21:05
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD>Adjusting the gearstick linkage
contributed by Rich Russell
Difficulty engaging gears? Check the linkage before changing the gearbox!
The gearstick is connected to the gearbox by a metal rod. This can get bashed, bent or worn, resulting in difficulty engaging gears - especially 2nd and 4th.
The rod rotates left and right when you move the stick left and right - this moves the gearbox selector up and down. So if you can't get reverse or 5th, you may need to twist the bar one way or the other.
The rod moves forward and backward in the opposite direction to the way you move the gearstick - so if you can get 1st, 3rd and reverse, but 2nd and 4th pop out of gear, bounce off (especially at high revs) or grind then the rod isn't pushing forward enough. If you can't get 1st, but 2nd is alright, then the rod doesn't go back far enough -etc...
In order to adjust the link rod, you'll need to get to the clamp at the bottom of the gearstick. The only way to do this is to get the car up on ramps or axle stands (don't do it on a jack, you may have to use some force to release the clamp, and you don't want the car to fall on you!).
Remove the spring from the bottom of the gearstick, this is there so that the gearstick doesn't wobble around too much and pop out of gear on bumpy roads!
You should put the car in gear (2nd is the best for this), so you know that the gearbox and stick show the same gear!
Then undo the 13mm nut and bolt securing the clamp to the linkage. The rod slides over a slightly smaller one on the bottom of the gear stick. Measure the distance between the end of the rod and the hinge to the stick (ie the amount of inner rod visible). It should be 5-6mm if nothing is worn or bent.
You will probably need some WD40 to loosen the grip, then tap gently with a hammer to free it so you can slide the link rod over the gearstick one. You may have to wiggle the gearstick to free it - but make sure you know what gear the gearbox is in when the link rod comes free!
If you need the rod longer (can't get 2nd, 4th), move it out a bit- 5-6mm is where it should be. Obviously if you need it shorter or twisting slightly, do that.
Refit the clamp, and check you can engage all the gears - it's useful to have someone watch the selector on the gearbox itself to check it is going in properly. If the clamp's not tight enough, you may find the stick moves excessively and you don't feel it 'clunk' into gear.
Readjust if necessary. Refit the anti-wobble spring.
Lower the car, and check that you can move in first and reverse at least (ie drive the car forwards and backwards a metre or two). If all is well, take it for a test drive, checking you can engage gears under various conditions (low revs, high revs, up hills etc).
All the gears should feel the same when going in (sort of a double clunk) - and you should have to move the stick by about the same distance from neutral for all (remember 5th is a bit further right than the gap from 1st/3rd).
If you still have problems after this - you may need a new gearbox, which will cost you anywhere between £50 (2nd hand, do it yourself) and £600 (recon, garage fitted) - so it's worth spending an hour checking the linkage which costs nothing!
</TD><!-- Spacer --><TD width=15> </TD><!-- Images --><TD width=200>https://www.rtoc.org/articles/i/gearlink/slink.jpg (https://www.rtoc.org/articles/i/gearlink/link.jpg)
Linkage clamp
https://www.rtoc.org/articles/i/gearlink/sstand.jpg (https://www.rtoc.org/articles/i/gearlink/stand.jpg)
Car on axle stands
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
contributed by Rich Russell
Difficulty engaging gears? Check the linkage before changing the gearbox!
The gearstick is connected to the gearbox by a metal rod. This can get bashed, bent or worn, resulting in difficulty engaging gears - especially 2nd and 4th.
The rod rotates left and right when you move the stick left and right - this moves the gearbox selector up and down. So if you can't get reverse or 5th, you may need to twist the bar one way or the other.
The rod moves forward and backward in the opposite direction to the way you move the gearstick - so if you can get 1st, 3rd and reverse, but 2nd and 4th pop out of gear, bounce off (especially at high revs) or grind then the rod isn't pushing forward enough. If you can't get 1st, but 2nd is alright, then the rod doesn't go back far enough -etc...
In order to adjust the link rod, you'll need to get to the clamp at the bottom of the gearstick. The only way to do this is to get the car up on ramps or axle stands (don't do it on a jack, you may have to use some force to release the clamp, and you don't want the car to fall on you!).
Remove the spring from the bottom of the gearstick, this is there so that the gearstick doesn't wobble around too much and pop out of gear on bumpy roads!
You should put the car in gear (2nd is the best for this), so you know that the gearbox and stick show the same gear!
Then undo the 13mm nut and bolt securing the clamp to the linkage. The rod slides over a slightly smaller one on the bottom of the gear stick. Measure the distance between the end of the rod and the hinge to the stick (ie the amount of inner rod visible). It should be 5-6mm if nothing is worn or bent.
You will probably need some WD40 to loosen the grip, then tap gently with a hammer to free it so you can slide the link rod over the gearstick one. You may have to wiggle the gearstick to free it - but make sure you know what gear the gearbox is in when the link rod comes free!
If you need the rod longer (can't get 2nd, 4th), move it out a bit- 5-6mm is where it should be. Obviously if you need it shorter or twisting slightly, do that.
Refit the clamp, and check you can engage all the gears - it's useful to have someone watch the selector on the gearbox itself to check it is going in properly. If the clamp's not tight enough, you may find the stick moves excessively and you don't feel it 'clunk' into gear.
Readjust if necessary. Refit the anti-wobble spring.
Lower the car, and check that you can move in first and reverse at least (ie drive the car forwards and backwards a metre or two). If all is well, take it for a test drive, checking you can engage gears under various conditions (low revs, high revs, up hills etc).
All the gears should feel the same when going in (sort of a double clunk) - and you should have to move the stick by about the same distance from neutral for all (remember 5th is a bit further right than the gap from 1st/3rd).
If you still have problems after this - you may need a new gearbox, which will cost you anywhere between £50 (2nd hand, do it yourself) and £600 (recon, garage fitted) - so it's worth spending an hour checking the linkage which costs nothing!
</TD><!-- Spacer --><TD width=15> </TD><!-- Images --><TD width=200>https://www.rtoc.org/articles/i/gearlink/slink.jpg (https://www.rtoc.org/articles/i/gearlink/link.jpg)
Linkage clamp
https://www.rtoc.org/articles/i/gearlink/sstand.jpg (https://www.rtoc.org/articles/i/gearlink/stand.jpg)
Car on axle stands
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>