Ian S
23-02-2009, 19:34
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr valign="top"><td>Steering column bush replacements
contributed by Alex Woolley 27/2/04
If your steering wheel has excessive play its probably time to replace your bushes
This is a guide to show you how to do it, its pretty much the same as the Haynes manual tells you but hopefully my photos will be a bit of help to you. There are 2 bushes, one at the top and one at the bottom of the steering column they are both the same and cost £7.97+VAT each from Renault the part number is: 7703090293 or for about £10 for the pair from GSF, part number R43055. The job should take around an hour or so and its quite easy to do however you do have to take some care with your wiring!
NB: May 2009; The bearings/bushes currently cost £16.59 each + VAT.
1, Disconnect the battery negative terminal (just in case!)
2, Remove the steering wheel. It will be hard to move especially if it hasn’t been off before so when you pull it be careful not to smash it into your head!!!
3, Remove the torx screws and remove the lower shroud from the column (2 screws) (photo)
4, Unscrew the directional indicator switch mounting screws (2 screws)
5, Extract the circlip from the top of the steering column. This is what it says in the Haynes, however there wasn’t a circlip on my steering column.
6, At the base of the column remove the plastic heater pipe and unscrew and remove the clamp bolt securing the intermediate shaft to the inner column. Mark both components in relation to each other. (photo)
7, Check the position of the ignition switch is in “garage” position (so the steering doesn’t lock) then temporarily refit the steering wheel with the nut finger tight. Pull firmly towards you on the steering wheel to release the inner column from the intermediate shaft and also to release the upper bush which should come right out. Withdraw the inner column and bush.
8, Unscrew the facia to column screws (2 at the top on the outer column mounting bracket, and 1 at the bottom) remove the mounting nuts from the bottom of the column and the mounting bolts from the top of the column. (photo)
9, Disconnect the two ignition key barrel wiring plugs.
10, Withdraw the column from the car being careful not to damage any wires. Lift the facia as necessary.
11, Drive out the lower bush from the bottom of the outer column but if you use the inner column dont hammer directly on it's end as it's soft metal and distorts easily meaning the end will be badly damaged. Clean the inner and outer column.
12, Lubricate both new bushes and drive the first bush into the bottom of the outer column, between the location tabs. Tap in the location tabs to lock the bush if necessary.
13, Insert the inner column through the top of the outer column and through the lower bush. Drive in the upper bush and refit the circlip (if you have one?) tap in the location tabs if necessary.
14, Refitting is the reversal of removal, but when re-connecting the intermediate shaft to the inner column, the flat on the column must be aligned with the clamp opening. Refit all nuts, bolts and screws and refit the steering wheel. (photo)
See also:
Boards thread (http://www.rtoc.org/boards/thread.asp?TopicID=23755)
Boards thread (http://www.rtoc.org/boards/thread.asp?TopicID=26101)
Changing the rack, things you should know
There are two types of lower column and steering rack. The bottom picture shows the H reg 5GTT version. See that Renault changed the rubber lined aluminium block universal joint of earlier models for a metal all the way through one, same as the columns centre UJ. Note also that the fitting onto the rack is different to earlier models meaning there are different racks. They had either a round splined or maybe square spiggot whereas this has a flat sided smooth round one.
I (Ian S) (http://www.rtoc.org/boards/../members/member.asp?Memberid=1861) converted my E reg earlier type to the later type hoping to reduce slack in the steering (not sure if it did as there seemed to still be slack somewhere plus the tracking was out initially masking any immediate change). I had to change the lower column as well as the rack and modify my existing bulk head grommet to transfer it over to the new column as the hole in my floor was smaller than the later holes. There are later cars with both the larger hole and the earlier type column, rack and larger diameter earlier type grommet. That's why they ask for the oval plate number!
Alex RTOC Profile (http://www.rtoc.org/boards/../members/member.asp?memberid=1842) </td> <td width="15"> </td> <td width="200"> http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/XWTFLSBCKAVWDZRKLPOT_t2004_3_2_0_6_32_q60_f14_150x 112.jpg (http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/XWTFLSBCKAVWDZRKLPOT.jpg)
3
http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/YBDAQYUHNJPFBHJELJOQ_t2004_3_2_0_7_28_q60_f14_150x 112.jpg (http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/YBDAQYUHNJPFBHJELJOQ.jpg)
6
http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/BDJMKWGEQLRHJKMFWJSP_t2004_3_2_0_8_16_q60_f14_150x 112.jpg (http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/BDJMKWGEQLRHJKMFWJSP.jpg)
8
http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/VDCBNYKKYNHAKHPEUZKQ_t2004_3_2_0_9_3_q60_f14_150x1 12.jpg (http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/VDCBNYKKYNHAKHPEUZKQ.jpg)
14
http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/RPVPNEKNIGRJDIHCKECY_t2004_10_16_21_19_45_q70_f14_ 150x112.jpg (http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/RPVPNEKNIGRJDIHCKECY.jpg)
The later 5GTT bottom joint with no rubber lining
</td></tr></tbody></table>
contributed by Alex Woolley 27/2/04
If your steering wheel has excessive play its probably time to replace your bushes
This is a guide to show you how to do it, its pretty much the same as the Haynes manual tells you but hopefully my photos will be a bit of help to you. There are 2 bushes, one at the top and one at the bottom of the steering column they are both the same and cost £7.97+VAT each from Renault the part number is: 7703090293 or for about £10 for the pair from GSF, part number R43055. The job should take around an hour or so and its quite easy to do however you do have to take some care with your wiring!
NB: May 2009; The bearings/bushes currently cost £16.59 each + VAT.
1, Disconnect the battery negative terminal (just in case!)
2, Remove the steering wheel. It will be hard to move especially if it hasn’t been off before so when you pull it be careful not to smash it into your head!!!
3, Remove the torx screws and remove the lower shroud from the column (2 screws) (photo)
4, Unscrew the directional indicator switch mounting screws (2 screws)
5, Extract the circlip from the top of the steering column. This is what it says in the Haynes, however there wasn’t a circlip on my steering column.
6, At the base of the column remove the plastic heater pipe and unscrew and remove the clamp bolt securing the intermediate shaft to the inner column. Mark both components in relation to each other. (photo)
7, Check the position of the ignition switch is in “garage” position (so the steering doesn’t lock) then temporarily refit the steering wheel with the nut finger tight. Pull firmly towards you on the steering wheel to release the inner column from the intermediate shaft and also to release the upper bush which should come right out. Withdraw the inner column and bush.
8, Unscrew the facia to column screws (2 at the top on the outer column mounting bracket, and 1 at the bottom) remove the mounting nuts from the bottom of the column and the mounting bolts from the top of the column. (photo)
9, Disconnect the two ignition key barrel wiring plugs.
10, Withdraw the column from the car being careful not to damage any wires. Lift the facia as necessary.
11, Drive out the lower bush from the bottom of the outer column but if you use the inner column dont hammer directly on it's end as it's soft metal and distorts easily meaning the end will be badly damaged. Clean the inner and outer column.
12, Lubricate both new bushes and drive the first bush into the bottom of the outer column, between the location tabs. Tap in the location tabs to lock the bush if necessary.
13, Insert the inner column through the top of the outer column and through the lower bush. Drive in the upper bush and refit the circlip (if you have one?) tap in the location tabs if necessary.
14, Refitting is the reversal of removal, but when re-connecting the intermediate shaft to the inner column, the flat on the column must be aligned with the clamp opening. Refit all nuts, bolts and screws and refit the steering wheel. (photo)
See also:
Boards thread (http://www.rtoc.org/boards/thread.asp?TopicID=23755)
Boards thread (http://www.rtoc.org/boards/thread.asp?TopicID=26101)
Changing the rack, things you should know
There are two types of lower column and steering rack. The bottom picture shows the H reg 5GTT version. See that Renault changed the rubber lined aluminium block universal joint of earlier models for a metal all the way through one, same as the columns centre UJ. Note also that the fitting onto the rack is different to earlier models meaning there are different racks. They had either a round splined or maybe square spiggot whereas this has a flat sided smooth round one.
I (Ian S) (http://www.rtoc.org/boards/../members/member.asp?Memberid=1861) converted my E reg earlier type to the later type hoping to reduce slack in the steering (not sure if it did as there seemed to still be slack somewhere plus the tracking was out initially masking any immediate change). I had to change the lower column as well as the rack and modify my existing bulk head grommet to transfer it over to the new column as the hole in my floor was smaller than the later holes. There are later cars with both the larger hole and the earlier type column, rack and larger diameter earlier type grommet. That's why they ask for the oval plate number!
Alex RTOC Profile (http://www.rtoc.org/boards/../members/member.asp?memberid=1842) </td> <td width="15"> </td> <td width="200"> http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/XWTFLSBCKAVWDZRKLPOT_t2004_3_2_0_6_32_q60_f14_150x 112.jpg (http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/XWTFLSBCKAVWDZRKLPOT.jpg)
3
http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/YBDAQYUHNJPFBHJELJOQ_t2004_3_2_0_7_28_q60_f14_150x 112.jpg (http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/YBDAQYUHNJPFBHJELJOQ.jpg)
6
http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/BDJMKWGEQLRHJKMFWJSP_t2004_3_2_0_8_16_q60_f14_150x 112.jpg (http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/BDJMKWGEQLRHJKMFWJSP.jpg)
8
http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/VDCBNYKKYNHAKHPEUZKQ_t2004_3_2_0_9_3_q60_f14_150x1 12.jpg (http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/VDCBNYKKYNHAKHPEUZKQ.jpg)
14
http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/RPVPNEKNIGRJDIHCKECY_t2004_10_16_21_19_45_q70_f14_ 150x112.jpg (http://old.rtoc.org/articles/i/autofolder/RPVPNEKNIGRJDIHCKECY.jpg)
The later 5GTT bottom joint with no rubber lining
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