Lowiepete
05-04-2016, 14:13
Hello Folks,
Introduction
The detailing market has grown to the point where there's now almost a potion
for everything. Some of these are just based upon marketing hype, however, a
pre-wax clean and its attendant potion is still very much a mainstay of the full
detailing process.
This missive describes what the process sets out to achieve and what look for in
the results that follow. Quite unlike polishing, which is a process to either
reduce or remove swirls, the pre-wax clean does just that - it deep cleans.
At What Stage Does a Pre-Wax Clean Take Place?
This list gives an idea of of a full ground-upward detail... a thorough wash,
de-tar and / or de-iron - either of these require a good rinse at least,
clay bar treatment or clay cloth clean,
pre-wax clean.
Choosing a Pre-Wax Cleaner
Pre-wax cleaners generally come in two types, those containing very fine
abrasives that assist the chemicals and those that rely entirely upon their
chemical content. There is a third type, but these are more generally known as
All-in-One (A-I-O) products because they also contain some element of paint
protection within their formulation.
Probably the first choice will be the purely chemical cleaner. On a fairly well
maintained car, the use of abrasives at this stage is probably not necessary.
A comparison of 3 pre-wax cleaners is the subject of a separate article.
The Aim of The Pre-Wax Clean
This can be summed-up in 3 words: very clean paint. A chemical cleaner will work
by dissolving the dirt that's buried in the paint that shampoos won't touch.
PWCs also help dissolve and remove oxidisation damage.
The cleaner that you can get your paint at this stage will pay dividends later,
especially if you are intending to use a sealant as your protective coating.
Sealants can have bonding issues if they are applied to less than clean paint.
This won't be immediately obvious, it's not like it's going to fall into little
piles all over your garage floor; it's just that the protection won't last as
it should. If your sealant doesn't last as long as everyone else claims, then
it's probably this process which will need amending in future.
To Pre-Wax Clean, or Not?
The advent of the clay-cloth can, in some circumstances, remove the need for the
pre-wax clean. Certainly, in the absence of paint oxidisation the way that the
clay-cloth draws out the dirt can make this process redundant. This has been my
experience when doing this clean with ONR in the wash bucket.
What Result Do I Look For?
There is one thing that very clean paint does exceptionally well; it beads
water! Beading on all last stage products (LSPs) indicates absolutely nothing.
They certainly don't indicate any level of existing protection. That's not say
that beads don't look pretty, they certainly do!
This photo shows what can be dragged out of what might first appear
to be clean paint. The cleaners shown form part of a comparison review.
http://s5.postimg.cc/53p2yeuk7/sppadstest1.jpg
Clean paint is also very smooth to the touch - in fact, very clean (and polished)
paint can shine as well as, or even better than, even the most fancy of LSPs.
While I'm at the myth-busting, all any LSP should do is provide its protection
and it should bend the light according to your desires. That's right, it's all about
a trick of the light!
The Tools & Process
There are two different tools to use with PWCs, one is a microfibre pad, the
other is a firm white foam pad. In my article about MF cloths I've mentioned
that its cleaning power should not be under-estimated. You'll need 2 or more
of either pad.
To get the best from the MF pad, you should first spread a little PWC and
immediately start working it fairly firmly. Do no more than a very small test
area and keep an eye on what's being removed and gathering in the pad.
Working with the foam pad requires a bucket of warm water with a drop of
shampoo in it (I use Optimum No Rinse). The pad needs to soak for a minute or
three so that it softens a little. Apply a few drops of PWC and apply it to the
paint, again starting to work it briskly straight afterwards. You won't need as
much pressure with this pad. As with the MF pad, keep a close eye on what's
being removed from the surface.
Before...
http://s5.postimg.cc/zenz7plpz/merc1305.jpg
After...
http://s5.postimg.cc/9ab9cbwhj/merc1307.jpg
You'll now have a clearer idea of how much work is ahead of you. When the PWC
has dried, buff it off with a clean MF cloth. To ascertain just how clean the
paint is, use your second clean pad and repeat the process. If yet more dirt
is removed, then you have plenty to keep you occupied for a while.
With either of these cleaning methods you need to keep your pads as clean as
possible. My preferred method is with the foam pads as these rinse out a bit
easier. Don't be tempted to over-use the potion! More cleaning fluid usually
means more mess and harder buffing-off, rather than cleaner paint.
If there is plenty of dirt to remove, then work in small patches, say about a
square foot at a time. This will make the cleaning process a bit less tiring.
If the surface is fairly clean to start with, then a bigger area like a quarter
of a roof can be tackled.
Once clean, it's important to keep the surface dry and as dust-free as you can.
What Happens Next?
You have now reached point where a thorough surface assessment can be made. If
you have a machine and there's evident swirling, you will probably be going
down the polishing route. Otherwise, you'll probably consider a filler-glaze.
Note that if you do, then that will determine the longevity of what's applied
over it. If you're doing a Winter preparation detail, this might not be a
good idea.
Choosing LSPs will be the subject of a separate article.
Conclusions
There's no doubt that, when needed, the pre-wax clean is an essential part of a
full detail. I have found in certain circumstances that a patient clay-cloth
clean can obviate the need for this stage altogether. That's certainly the case
on paint that's well cared for. However, if you find that you're removing a fair
bit of ingrained dirt or oxidisation, the sense of achievement at the end is
tangible.
The more care and attention that you put in at this stage means better ease of
cleaning later and a longer lasting LSP. When working by hand, this can be the
hardest task in the whole detail, but it brings the greatest rewards with it.
Regards,
Steve
Introduction
The detailing market has grown to the point where there's now almost a potion
for everything. Some of these are just based upon marketing hype, however, a
pre-wax clean and its attendant potion is still very much a mainstay of the full
detailing process.
This missive describes what the process sets out to achieve and what look for in
the results that follow. Quite unlike polishing, which is a process to either
reduce or remove swirls, the pre-wax clean does just that - it deep cleans.
At What Stage Does a Pre-Wax Clean Take Place?
This list gives an idea of of a full ground-upward detail... a thorough wash,
de-tar and / or de-iron - either of these require a good rinse at least,
clay bar treatment or clay cloth clean,
pre-wax clean.
Choosing a Pre-Wax Cleaner
Pre-wax cleaners generally come in two types, those containing very fine
abrasives that assist the chemicals and those that rely entirely upon their
chemical content. There is a third type, but these are more generally known as
All-in-One (A-I-O) products because they also contain some element of paint
protection within their formulation.
Probably the first choice will be the purely chemical cleaner. On a fairly well
maintained car, the use of abrasives at this stage is probably not necessary.
A comparison of 3 pre-wax cleaners is the subject of a separate article.
The Aim of The Pre-Wax Clean
This can be summed-up in 3 words: very clean paint. A chemical cleaner will work
by dissolving the dirt that's buried in the paint that shampoos won't touch.
PWCs also help dissolve and remove oxidisation damage.
The cleaner that you can get your paint at this stage will pay dividends later,
especially if you are intending to use a sealant as your protective coating.
Sealants can have bonding issues if they are applied to less than clean paint.
This won't be immediately obvious, it's not like it's going to fall into little
piles all over your garage floor; it's just that the protection won't last as
it should. If your sealant doesn't last as long as everyone else claims, then
it's probably this process which will need amending in future.
To Pre-Wax Clean, or Not?
The advent of the clay-cloth can, in some circumstances, remove the need for the
pre-wax clean. Certainly, in the absence of paint oxidisation the way that the
clay-cloth draws out the dirt can make this process redundant. This has been my
experience when doing this clean with ONR in the wash bucket.
What Result Do I Look For?
There is one thing that very clean paint does exceptionally well; it beads
water! Beading on all last stage products (LSPs) indicates absolutely nothing.
They certainly don't indicate any level of existing protection. That's not say
that beads don't look pretty, they certainly do!
This photo shows what can be dragged out of what might first appear
to be clean paint. The cleaners shown form part of a comparison review.
http://s5.postimg.cc/53p2yeuk7/sppadstest1.jpg
Clean paint is also very smooth to the touch - in fact, very clean (and polished)
paint can shine as well as, or even better than, even the most fancy of LSPs.
While I'm at the myth-busting, all any LSP should do is provide its protection
and it should bend the light according to your desires. That's right, it's all about
a trick of the light!
The Tools & Process
There are two different tools to use with PWCs, one is a microfibre pad, the
other is a firm white foam pad. In my article about MF cloths I've mentioned
that its cleaning power should not be under-estimated. You'll need 2 or more
of either pad.
To get the best from the MF pad, you should first spread a little PWC and
immediately start working it fairly firmly. Do no more than a very small test
area and keep an eye on what's being removed and gathering in the pad.
Working with the foam pad requires a bucket of warm water with a drop of
shampoo in it (I use Optimum No Rinse). The pad needs to soak for a minute or
three so that it softens a little. Apply a few drops of PWC and apply it to the
paint, again starting to work it briskly straight afterwards. You won't need as
much pressure with this pad. As with the MF pad, keep a close eye on what's
being removed from the surface.
Before...
http://s5.postimg.cc/zenz7plpz/merc1305.jpg
After...
http://s5.postimg.cc/9ab9cbwhj/merc1307.jpg
You'll now have a clearer idea of how much work is ahead of you. When the PWC
has dried, buff it off with a clean MF cloth. To ascertain just how clean the
paint is, use your second clean pad and repeat the process. If yet more dirt
is removed, then you have plenty to keep you occupied for a while.
With either of these cleaning methods you need to keep your pads as clean as
possible. My preferred method is with the foam pads as these rinse out a bit
easier. Don't be tempted to over-use the potion! More cleaning fluid usually
means more mess and harder buffing-off, rather than cleaner paint.
If there is plenty of dirt to remove, then work in small patches, say about a
square foot at a time. This will make the cleaning process a bit less tiring.
If the surface is fairly clean to start with, then a bigger area like a quarter
of a roof can be tackled.
Once clean, it's important to keep the surface dry and as dust-free as you can.
What Happens Next?
You have now reached point where a thorough surface assessment can be made. If
you have a machine and there's evident swirling, you will probably be going
down the polishing route. Otherwise, you'll probably consider a filler-glaze.
Note that if you do, then that will determine the longevity of what's applied
over it. If you're doing a Winter preparation detail, this might not be a
good idea.
Choosing LSPs will be the subject of a separate article.
Conclusions
There's no doubt that, when needed, the pre-wax clean is an essential part of a
full detail. I have found in certain circumstances that a patient clay-cloth
clean can obviate the need for this stage altogether. That's certainly the case
on paint that's well cared for. However, if you find that you're removing a fair
bit of ingrained dirt or oxidisation, the sense of achievement at the end is
tangible.
The more care and attention that you put in at this stage means better ease of
cleaning later and a longer lasting LSP. When working by hand, this can be the
hardest task in the whole detail, but it brings the greatest rewards with it.
Regards,
Steve