EFI Wideband

[Coops]

further to my thread about flat in the top gears, i'm now going to source a wideband setup for the car

few questions

best make and model for a reasonable price that will do the job? dont want one with all the bells n whistles, just enough so i can see whats going on and use it for mapping

as the engine is already an F7P with standard efi, it has a bosch lambda sensor on it for the ECU, can i just tap into that with a wideband or will i need to replace the sensor also/run second sensor (drill and tap new hole in downpipe??)

any input much appreciated

cheers

Coops

[Rob@Backyardracing]

I use the LM1, had it a few years now and its been knocked bashed and passed from cars to cars and still works great with good results and easy to use and i think pretty cheap these days. There is newer ones out there but i havnt read in to newer kits..

[TNT!hammond]

same as rob , got an lm1 never had hassle with it , tried the 'pretty' lc1 looked great ,worked about aswell as an ashtray on a motorcycle :)

[Coops]

sounds okay lads, more info please

can i hook it up parallel with current lambda sensor

how much is the kit i need

are there options for kit and what do i need for basic get it up n running

where can i get it from?

cheers

[TNT!hammond]

coops , i got mine from grahame goode online , i got the lm1 kit, it comes with all you need inc a weld on boss for the exhaust. im unsure if you can run the sensor in parrallell but for what it takes to drill and weld the exhaust for another sensor that comes with the kit id just do it. wiring is simple as you can either use the cigarrette lighter socket or hard wire it in. As i said all comes with the kit :) the only prob i know people have had with these is the data cable is an old style which new laptops rarely have a port for BUT you can get a adaptor that uses usb :) hope that helps

[Scoff]

you can't hook it up in parrallel. besides the existing sensor you have will be narrowband, your new kit will come with a wideband sensor.

[Coops]

sound, downpipe off job then

hows best to align the 2 lambda in the gas stream? presumable dont want one directly behind the other, and how close can they go?

[Scoff]

sound, downpipe off job then

hows best to align the 2 lambda in the gas stream? presumable dont want one directly behind the other, and how close can they go?

anywhere in the downpipe really, aslong as it's not immediately behind the turbo and providing that the wire exiting the sensor is pointing somewhere upward of horizontal. also be sure not to run the engine with the power to the sensor switched off, it has a heater in the sensor that needs to be powered up else you'll foul it and kill it. always remove once tuned or leave it connected up :)

[Coops]

whats wrong with the LC-1? only got an offer on a group buy for one 165 quid

good idea or bad idea?

[Ashy]

wouldn't bother with an LC-1, how much is an LM1 these days? There are better bits of kit (IMO) on the market that do a lot more for not a lot more!!

I use this http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/ZR-2/ZR-2.htm

with this http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm

Costs about $650.00 all in (with shipping) which isn't bad tbh, it allows you to log boost v's RPM v's AFR v's Lambda v's EGT's + any other 5v imput you want to log....

Great if you want to fit it to your car and leave it in place but not so good if you want to use it on different cars as its a fairly perm install!!

(Sh!t just checked the exchange rates, $1.45 to the £1.00!! Blimey thats crap, it was nearly 2:1 when I bought mine)

[Rob@Backyardracing]

Agree, doller crap at mo, pretty much why the civic project has slowed, plus shippment seems to have gone up then you need to add the uk Vodka and Tonic bill too... :(

[Coops]

am after the reason the lc-1 is so much worse than the lm-1 is all, i cant warrant spending 350 quid on a wideband, 200 is the budget but as the lc-1 is on a deal its tempting, so i need to know why supposedly pants in comparision to the lm-1

[allanr5gtt]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)


anywhere in the downpipe really, aslong as it's not immediately behind the turbo and providing that the wire exiting the sensor is pointing somewhere upward of horizontal. also be sure not to run the engine with the power to the sensor switched off, it has a heater in the sensor that needs to be powered up else you'll foul it and kill it. always remove once tuned or leave it connected up :)

i ran my lm1 the other day for about 30-45 mins not power up just to get me home (saving on power) as my battery wasn't charging. how do i if i have killed the sensor? and also what is the % reading that flashes up now and then?
thanks

[fishead]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AEM-6-in-1-Gauge-Type-Wideband-UEGO-Controller-30-4100_W0QQitemZ200304416449QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Di agnostic_Tools_Equipment?hash=item200304416449&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318

i've had mine a long time, no complaints at all

[Rob@Backyardracing]

am after the reason the lc-1 is so much worse than the lm-1 is all, i cant warrant spending 350 quid on a wideband, 200 is the budget but as the lc-1 is on a deal its tempting, so i need to know why supposedly pants in comparision to the lm-1

Peeps have had trouble with the readings as they give out ramdom numbers etc which isnt what you want when charging along on boost setting a car up, i couldnt take that risk anyway... Ive never had one just saying what ive heard.. Im sure someone will add more comments to this....................:coffee:

[Coops]

scoffs denounced them n all, so maybe aem job listed on ebay link? its more than likely going to be a permanant fixture in the car so thats not an issue, not going to be swapping it from car to car or anything