Clutch problems

[Charlie]

Hi guys, I have a problem with my clutch. A bit of detail first I have the Volvo green box clutch in and the soft peddle conversion, my problem is I have no clutch unless I take the plastic stop out at the peddle box but the peddle is very high then. Also it crunches going into 2nd gear from 3rd this might be a problem with the box but until I get the clutch fix I'm not sure just in case it's not clearing correctly. Has anyone come across this problem or any idea what to try. All ideas most welcome. Cheers

[R5MJH]

we had problems in the past, the stop can be filed to get it to the next tooth on the rachet, if you remove the stop the pedal will be higher but does it clear the gears ok then?

[Charlie]

Yeah the only thing you have to press your foot to the floor and it does crunch going into 2nd gear.

[R5MJH]

how old is the clutch miles wise?

[Charlie]

New, only about 200 miles from full rebuild.

[R5MJH]

if it dont clear the gears and is new i cant see it being the clutch probably box

we got a f7 with a jc5 clio box and a valeo green outer and a soft pedal convertion and have no problems at all

[robw]

I had the same problem and I had a newish ap disc with valeo housing.
Never worked out the problem. Would also like to know as removing the stopper to get gears seemed a bit bodge.

[turbo ted]

What clutch cable are you using as they come in different lengths you want genuine Renault black cable as its the shortest travel, if you have a soft pedal conversion fitted you need to take out the plastic clutch stop at pedal and grind it down and refit until you get gears;)

[Charlie]

Not sure about the cable its a grey colour, I am going to order a Renault one tomorrow and try that. Other than that I might pull the whole lot out and go back to standard. The crunch from 3rd to 2nd is that a box problem or can the linkage be adjusted?

[robw]

I tried two clutch cables, genuine ones. Made no difference for me

[Charlie]

I'm thinking just to pull the engine and box out and change back to std but it will gut me as I have everything perfect:confused:

[R5MJH]

it maybe the same though you need to find out if the box is fubar first by removing the block and test driving

[Charlie]

That's the way I was driving it with the block out, not nice to drive like that. It's looking like everything out and get the box overhauled and the soft pedal kit removed. Not looking forward to this.:cry:

[James5]

That's the way I was driving it with the block out, not nice to drive like that. It's looking like everything out and get the box overhauled and the soft pedal kit removed. Not looking forward to this.:cry:

Sounds like cable slack, and possibly gear linkage needs minor adjustment :agree:


My 215mm Helix paddle clutch setup requires me to remove the pedal stop, and that's with brand new genuine cable aswell.

[Charlie]

What's the best way to check the gear linkage.

[GTphil]

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=4798

Gear linkage is a good shout, in the past even a very minor adjustment has helped. With my old soft pedal conversion and paddle plate or even with the valeo green box for that matter I had to use a spacer after the clutch arm. My old gtt had the same clutch cable for over 10 years and it was not genuine either. I played about with the tickness of the spacer as this seemed to set the bite point position on the pedal travel. Bodge or no bodge for me it was better than taking the whole lot out and starting again:agree:

[Markey Mark (BD)]

Clutch fork pivot bush in the box worn?
That's an easy one people miss sometimes

[Charlie]

New one fitted when putting togather

[Charlie]

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=4798

Gear linkage is a good shout, in the past even a very minor adjustment has helped. With my old soft pedal conversion and paddle plate or even with the valeo green box for that matter I had to use a spacer after the clutch arm. My old gtt had the same clutch cable for over 10 years and it was not genuine either. I played about with the tickness of the spacer as this seemed to set the bite point position on the pedal travel. Bodge or no bodge for me it was better than taking the whole lot out and starting again:agree:

That's an idea I will get a few spacers made and try that first. Cheers

[Charlie]

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=4798

Gear linkage is a good shout, in the past even a very minor adjustment has helped. With my old soft pedal conversion and paddle plate or even with the valeo green box for that matter I had to use a spacer after the clutch arm. My old gtt had the same clutch cable for over 10 years and it was not genuine either. I played about with the tickness of the spacer as this seemed to set the bite point position on the pedal travel. Bodge or no bodge for me it was better than taking the whole lot out and starting again:agree:

Thanks for the link most helpful. Cheers.