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gttjames
27-01-2009, 18:34
What is the time scale to replace these? My cars on 110,000, got no history with it so have no clue if its been done. Sounds a little tappy (allthough the manifold gasket is blowing abit so might be this, need to do gasket first)

Whats it like to do, anyone give me a quick run down of what ill need to remove to get to it etc, also is there any seals/gaskets il need?

thanks

And just a quikie, need to remove spoiler but couldn't see how it was held on, couldnt find any nuts/screws, dont tell me its bonded on?

raj
27-01-2009, 18:59
jack the front end up! i find the higher the better.
place no#1 piston at tdc(make sure the mark on the flywheel is lined up with the marking on the gearbox).
drop the oil.
remove sump.
you may want to undo the bolt securing the sump to degass pot pipe and move the pipe to the side.
remove the crank pulley.
remove the crank pulley base(cant remember its proper name).
remove timing cover.
at this point i alway check that the -&+ on both the cam and crank pulley are facing directly at each other using a steel ruler.(not nessesary if you only replacing the tensioner,but would do if your taking the chain off).
undo the 2 bolts securing the chain tensioner(take care not to loose the flat plate thats between the block and the tensioner).
remove tensioner.
-----
fit the base plate with the new tensioner, you'll need to depress the tensioner to fit it.
make sure the tensioner is applying tension to the chain, i alway pull the tensioner towards the chain and it simply locks itself tense.
refit the timing cover using a good amount of sealant.
refit the crank pulley base.
refit the half moon seals.
refit the sump using a good amount of sealant(this may take you a few attempts so abit of practice angling without the seal would be a good idea:cooter:.
refit the crank pulley
refit the sump to degass pot pipe if you moved it out the way.

franks your mums mum who is really hughbert from down the road:D

gttjames
27-01-2009, 19:09
:cry:oh dear, mission lol. Nice one raj.

So il need some new 'half moon seals', and is there a seal on the sump/timing cover that il need to renew. thanks

raj
27-01-2009, 19:12
:cry:oh dear, mission lol. Nice one raj.

So il need some new 'half moon seals', and is there a seal on the sump/timing cover that il need to renew. thanks

sealant on timing cover and sump. make sure you use a good amount.

markey b
27-01-2009, 19:23
dont use stickaflex either.... i had a leaky sump for 2 years because i assumed it was something else, but stickaflex goes hard lol

renault do thixo paste for about £1.99 a tube :eek:

gttjames
27-01-2009, 19:27
cheers lads, so thixo from renault is the stuff to use.

Anyone know about spoiler removal?

raj
27-01-2009, 19:32
cheers lads, so thixo from renault is the stuff to use.

Anyone know about spoiler removal?

dont bother going out your way to buy thixo.!
ive been using carplan sealant available from most motorfactors for years and never had a problem. it comes in a big tube that you put in them guns. cost about £3.

i cannot stress enough... use a very good amount of sealant.!! slap it all over the shop:agree:
this is the stuff i use, i think the look of the tube has changed now http://www.performance-oils.co.uk/acatalog/Silicone.jpg

gtmatt
27-01-2009, 19:34
i used renault thixo thought it was the best stuff did the job perfect :)

Nick k
27-01-2009, 23:39
cheers lads, so thixo from renault is the stuff to use.

Anyone know about spoiler removal?

Spoiler' Bonded on!!! enjoy :)

gttjames
27-01-2009, 23:55
Spoiler' Bonded on!!! enjoy :)
:sad2: nothins easy lol. Ill have to see about geting it sprayed on the car then, its faded

Sparkie
28-01-2009, 00:02
Spoiler' Bonded on!!! enjoy :)

fail... ;)

there are clips that are bonded onto the spoiler, these are then pushed onto the small dowels that stick up out of the tailgate. you will just have to yank/lever it off carefully, and then rescue as many clips as possible and stick them back onto the spoiler with glue, before refitting.

Sparkie
28-01-2009, 00:07
couldnt resist shortening it, to the 'ive done it a few times now and my way is quicker than your way' version.:cooter:



jack the drivers side up

you may want to undo the bolt securing the sump to degass pot pipe and move the pipe to the side.

remove the crank pulley.

remove the crank pulley base(cant remember its proper name).

remove timing cover.- undo the bolts by reaching above and below the wing

at this point i alway check that the -&+ on both the cam and crank pulley are facing directly at each other using a steel ruler.(not nessesary if you only replacing the tensioner,but would do if your taking the chain off). if they arent then move them round by using a screwdriver on the flywheel.

undo the 2 bolts securing the chain tensioner(take care not to loose the flat plate thats between the block and the tensioner).
remove tensioner.
-----
fit the base plate with the new tensioner, you'll need to depress the tensioner to fit it.

make sure the tensioner is applying tension to the chain, i alway pull the tensioner towards the chain and it simply locks itself tense.

refit the timing cover making sure the half moon seal is stuck in place using a good amount of sealant. - you might have to trim the 'ears' off the seal to get it to fit..

refit the crank pulley base.

refit the crank pulley

refit the sump to degass pot pipe if you moved it out the way.

raj
28-01-2009, 00:38
lol trust you:cooter:

im not a fan of removing the timing cover without removing the sump first. was a right ufkin ballache when i tried it:disagree: plus im not liking the idea of snipping away at the halfmoon seal. not one for folks who get wound up really quick:brickwall: :sad: