Running in?

[bernard]

Ive recently fitted a engine into my 5 I changed the big ends and mains and also fitted a new cam do I need run it in if so how many miles and what speeds, revs should I stick to. I did give the car little bit of stick today as I just got it mot d and was exited:)

[smithsgtt]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

they recommend 500 mile at a steady 50 then increase more till 1000mile

[RICHIE]

depending on what cam you have im sure some needed to be reved at a constant revs for so long to stop it pitting. alot of members will tell you they thrash there car from the minute its built, i do it this way

[bernard]

I was just wondering if it would'nt be quite as in important as the pistons and liners are have already been run in.

with the cam on start up its so the cam gets enough oil thrown on by the cranksharft

[Penfold aka The Dealer]

I just drove mine as mormal, ie: 4-5k rpm fast driving, but every now and then upto 7k rpm for overtaking.

I have never ran a engine in gently, never had an issue, had a few new engines and all pushed as hard from the start as they would normally.

Also worth Changing oil & filters regulary in the early stages, 500miles, 1000m, 2000miles then 3000 miles...

[Kris M]

hi mate, did you manage to get the bits posted ??? :D

[Penfold aka The Dealer]

hi mate, did you manage to get the bits posted ??? :D

U talking to me? If so nope, had a F*ckin cold from hell, but over my parents tomorrow, should have it out at the post office tomorrow or sat.

[raj]

if its a new cam/followers id hold the revs @2k rpm a while for things to settle. after that, drive it as you would do.

[bernard]

thanks for the advice, is it necessary to check/redo valve clearances after driving it for while?

[rs250nut]

I did after 500 miles and re tourqued the head

[raj]

thanks for the advice, is it necessary to check/redo valve clearances after driving it for while?

if youve already had the car up to temp then you can retorque the headbolts.
make sure the cars cold before you do this though.!
once youve retorqued them you can move on to the valve clearances.
:)

[5teve L]

Yeah, you need to run the cam in, hold at 2k revs i think...
Bottom end, as long as you lubed it & got the oil in the oil pump it should be fine, if it's going to fail it will from day 1 :D, i hope you didn't mix the end caps up as they only go on the rods they came off mate :)

[bernard]

Yeah, you need to run the cam in, hold at 2k revs i think...
Bottom end, as long as you lubed it & got the oil in the oil pump it should be fine, if it's going to fail it will from day 1 :D, i hope you didn't mix the end caps up as they only go on the rods they came off mate :)

yeah I run the cam in that way, I didnt mix the caps up I made sure everthing went back the way it came apart. Steve what noise were you getting with that engine as its abit rattly/knockie when cold I take its just down to the forged pistons?

[5teve L]

yeah I run the cam in that way, I didnt mix the caps up I made sure everthing went back the way it came apart. Steve what noise were you getting with that engine as its abit rattly/knockie when cold I take its just down to the forged pistons?


Yep, slight piston noise with those i'm afraid ( i'm sure i mentioned it :confused:), they've always done it, Scoff said they rattled a bit in his when cold as well. Didn't affect the running of it though in either builds :D ;)

[bernard]

Yep, slight piston noise with those i'm afraid ( i'm sure i mentioned it :confused:), they've always done it, Scoff said they rattled a bit in his when cold as well. Didn't affect the running of it though in either builds :D ;)

yeah it was mentioned mate, It seems a common thing when searching about on the net, It performs fine no problem Ive just drilled out my 2nd stage at 1.15mm and im going to put the boost up to 18psi :)

[bernard]

just been for a long drive and im loving the new engine pulls like a train all the way to 7k, I cant stop overtaking people :rolleyes:. Ive got a bit of a oil leak though I think its coming from crank oil seal on the timing chain cover the sleeve which goes over the cranksharft looks a little worn is this a common problem??

[Andrew Cooke]

when running in keep it under 7K and overtake a few cars to really bed everything in tight.

Re-your leak, everything is possible with these old cars, but generally the leak is from the 1/2 round seal between the timing cover and sump.

[5teve L]

Did you push the seals back into the old positions, i did this & had a leak, i put it down to pushing it back into an already worn surface, try pulling it out a few mm onto some fresh metal ;)
Also slap loads of sealant on the u seals as they like to leak from there as well as Andy says.
Clean up under there run it up & have a look for drips.
Have to admit that engine did pull really well when i put those pistons in, did you run low comps before or standards ??

[bernard]

my last engine was totally standard and on 130.000 its no wonder im so impressed with the power now. the seal was a few mm back when I first ran the car and still leaked I then pushed it fully in and still got the leak, did you have a leak from there as I found a elastic metal ring in the sump:laugh: perhaps I will see if I can get a new sleeve.

Andrew I say 7k but was properly more 6.5k plus I live in devon and it doesn't take much to over take anyone:laugh: but I think I will take it a bit more steady at least in till I change the oil.