View Full Version : Engine failure
It happens to us all but under these circumstances it was a bummer.Acc pedal was stuck under the matt and from a cold start,first time in a few weeks the obvious happend.Like a nob i panicked and didnt turb the ignition off quick enough.Plenty of swarf in the sump,big end shells were the worst.Mains were ok to a certain degree.Possibly they were on there last legs before the over rev,although the engine was smooth and felt strong.Crank is in the machine shop having a full grind.Was thinking about just replacing the bearings but that would be silly so the whole lot is coming apart.Just after advice really on how to clean the whole oil and coolant ways.Just looked in my expansion tank and theres like sand in the base,orange stuff with some fresh swarf mixed in.:confused:
:( sorry to hear this. No OE rev limiter can be so dangerous!
Nottswoody
22-07-2014, 21:56
Take the block to the shop they cleaned mine for £15:agree:
What a bummer, doesn't take much in terms of lack of oil at high revs to lunch a crank......
I'm guessing you will have had to do it sooner rather than later anyway, they sort of have a habbit of either being bomb proof of being pulled apart every few months. What happened was probably on the cards anyway this little incident probably just accelerated the process......literally.
Machine shop to clean the block is a good shout, mine was hot washed, then painted in POR 15 engine enamel. No prep required just needed a few coats. I also used a brush and was worried once i was done about all the brush marks. However by the next morning it was smooth and shiny with not a brush mark in sight. It lasted 4 years three engine failures and god knows how many oil leaks and it still looks gloss black even in bits on the garage floor.
Is your turbo ok? Mine has somehow managed so far to survive three failures, now i have said that it will be blowing smoke like Bob Marley on a sunny Sunday afternoon when i put it all back together.
Worth doing the job to the best your wallet can stretch. Also a chance to get things spotless as i know you like your five clean.
Even better chance to do a few upgrades while your at it. :agree:
What a blow. I was always worried about the engine over revving so I invested in a limiter. Well worth buying once you've got it back together, about £100 new.
If I was you I'd strip everything back and take the block and head down to the engine shop to have it cleaned out in their parts washer and get them to blow compressed air through the oil ways.
So do you think that the over reving was the icing on the cake?The conrod bolts were tight.The mains were ok so no oil contamination.No blueing so no oil starvation.Detonation?possibly.This wasnt a tired engine it only had 3k on it with two oil and filter changes possibly three in that time.Too much load?Would running 20lb of boost on a turbo that made full boost at 3k cause this.
Probably just too many revs I imagine.
Have you shown anybody the pictures of the bearings? What did they say? Often the answer to what happened can be worked out.
If it hadn't been run for a few weeks then hit with 7k or over immediately after starting maybe the oil pump was not making enough pressure. Do you have an oil pressure gauge at all, what was it reading normally before the engine shat it's pants.
Det would show up on the gasket/valves/head and piston crowns as tiny little dents and sometimes very small holes in the piston crown.
Nottswoody
23-07-2014, 16:42
The bearings looked no worse than mine when I stripped it and that wasn't rattling.. They score quite quickly even when I turned the engine over by hand with the new it left a faint mark.. It's got to be the over revving surly?
When ever i have had oil pressure issues, it's always been the rod bearings that have come off worse.
If the revs were that high immediately with a stone cold engine that hadn't been run for a few weeks, I would be expecting that to be the cause.
The heads off and all looks good.To my untrained eye theres been no det.Carbon build up on the middle two pistons and thats about it.No scoring to the liners,they look like they was only honed yesterday.How do i get the liners out? I want to keep the pistons in the liners if possible.:agree:
If you have the head and gasket off off and you disconnect the conrod caps from the underneath, the pistons and liners should come out from the top with a bit of shove, I think.
Keep an eye out for the liner seals and make a note of the position of conrod caps and bolts.
No bent valves I take it? Like Trev said, the liners/pistons will push out which can require a bit of force. Take the sump off and push them out from the bottom.
if the liners dont push out easy then your need to tap them out using a piece of wood,just a little tap to free them upwards,if your just removing one then secure the rest with washers and bolts where the head bolts would go.
you will need a new liner seal!
check the oil pump whilst your at it,give it a good clean.
:agree:
Turns out my crank is scrap.No2 big end journal is cr:confused:acked
Turns out my crank is scrap.No2 big end journal is cr:confused:acked
Dude that's a crapper
Turns out my crank is scrap.No2 big end journal is cr:confused:acked
at least ya found the fault though, plenty of cranks around id also advise if you get one to get it to a machine shop to check the journals before installed otherwise it could be sump off again and that's not worth the aggro boss:agree:
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