View Full Version : James5 with Yet another GTT
So update is car is now back together with a new crank, bearings, new under piston oil squirters, New Grp N oil pump, New Greedy oil pressure kit and I replaced the rear discs after one of the bearings collapsed and the disc cracked.
All I need to do now is add coolant and play with map settings for the 630cc Injectors I have added:agree:
turbo ted
17-08-2015, 21:27
Well done James glad to here she all back together I like to hear the results of the new oil pump when she running hot as I have new oil which I have not fitted yet :):):)
Well done James glad to here she all back together I like to hear the results of the new oil pump when she running hot as I have new oil which I have not fitted yet :):):)
:agree: Will keep you posted hoping it's as good as using a 5mm spacer, little scared to start the ole girl at the mo LOL will get the courage up over the next few day's.
good work mate.... cant wait to see this on the road:agree:
FlashbangGtt
18-08-2015, 20:04
:dearme:
good work mate.... cant wait to see this on the road:agree:
That's why we call it the eclipse, miss it and you'll be waiting months for the next one..
Sorry James :p
:dearme:
That's why we call it the eclipse, miss it and you'll be waiting months for the next one..
Sorry James :p
:agree::agree: Dave I have to agree
https://youtu.be/tvl7hFHmmws
https://youtu.be/tvl7hFHmmws
All I got from that was my double din consol with the Renault cover.... Now with added hole and gauge... Philistine
https://youtu.be/1rF9hpya5eE
https://youtu.be/JBDaWT4vRcs
not bad jim i could throw you a tow road lol
Sounds awesome James, be coming in this to the meet? :cool:
Sounds awesome James, be coming in this to the meet? :cool:
Cheers, Should be attending the surrey meet in the 5. Got a few things to do before hand like adjust the gear stick selector every time I try to go into 1st it goes into blodoy reverse :-(, want to fit the wasted spark setup aswell next and then fit the bigger 630cc deka's. Then it's ready for mapping
not bad jim i could throw you a tow road lol
RAC card never leaves the 5 :D
Well suppose I should update the thread the car has been running faultless for over 500+ miles, the car is about to go through it's 5th oil and filter change. I even spent last night out with friends and we covered 63 miles of pretty much thrashing are car's other than one stop (My old silver evo 6 was in the group aswell). Other than cornering the 5 kept up with no issue's. So was good just need to get it mapped properly now.
I am also picking up some part's this eve as I was going to wide track the car and have sensors on each corner on the ABS ring's so I can have boost by gear and launch control installed properly.
So the part's I will have this eve are from a Clio Mk1 172, that will be 172 Hubs, 172 Driveshaft's, 172 Front Calliper's and disc's, 172 rear disc's (Have ABS ring's on), valver wishbone's. I am now on the look for a later valver ABS complete rear beam so I can swap over the entire setup and getting a little wider track at the rear aswell as front
god phil comes up with the idea and you nick it and get all parts before him pmsl:laugh:
god phil comes up with the idea and you nick it and get all parts before him pmsl:laugh:
:laugh: It's because I want to be Phil :agree: Have to admit I was looking into this over the last few weeks, I almost purchased a complete valver a few weeks back from Amarjit but due to lack of space and the fact it was not abs type I had to pass up. I was trying to avoid the 172 stuff due to the extra work needed to fit them, hub's skimming for strut's then the issue of it giving an extra 7mm width each side. Then there's the camber issue and how to sort that (was hoping elongating the lower strut might work. Then the driveshaft's mods cut and weld to GTT shafts for correct lengths not just a case of swapping the hub end onto the GTT over due to size and internal difference's so I have been advised :-(
Assume I may have to look for longer track rods but I am tempted to change the track rods to some rod end bearing's :agree:
You can run with the existing 5 rear beam and use wheel spacers James? Using spacers on the rear won't be an issue to the geometry like it is when they are used in the front.
As for abs pick ups you could weld a bracket on to hold the abs sensor in place I believe others have done this.
Or another idea which I believe would work and possibly provide you with abs sensor mounts is to convert the 5 rear beam to the 172 rear stub axles. This should also widen the rear track and the abs 172 rear stub axle should have the mounts ready for the sensors. It also allows you the option to use the rear camber shims that are available.
You can run with the existing 5 rear beam and use wheel spacers James? Using spacers on the rear won't be an issue to the geometry like it is when they are used in the front.
As for abs pick ups you could weld a bracket on to hold the abs sensor in place I believe others have done this.
Or another idea which I believe would work and possibly provide you with abs sensor mounts is to convert the 5 rear beam to the 172 rear stub axles. This should also widen the rear track and the abs 172 rear stub axle should have the mounts ready for the sensors. It also allows you the option to use the rear camber shims that are available.
Lewis 172 rear stub axle's would they bolt on or need some major modding to fit?
Some modding required. According to Matt@coderedmotorsport "Heat up the stub, knock it out with a big hammer, cut the small flange off, grind/file it flat, modify the threads to accept countersunk bolts, bolt on 1*2 stubs with shims if you have some. Easy peasy!
Did it to one of the R5 gt turbos we race and my mk1 16v. Valvers use m8x1 bolts on the standard beam. The bolts are too short to re-use.
172 use 3 m10x1.5 and 1 m8x1.25 thread.
Drill out all 4 holes to 8.5mm and tap in a m10x1.5 thread into the beam.
And also drill out the fourth hole on the stub axle bigger to accept the m10 bolt. Top left one I believe.
You could in theory just find 4 longer m8x1 bolts use the standard holes and create a shim insert in the 172 stub axle to close up the hole.
But seeing as all the standard renault stuff fits I just bought 2 extra m10 bolts."
Images borrowed from Clio Sport
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/8443/s6ir.jpg
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/4418/5pbw.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6981/re8x.jpg
Clio 16v std rear width
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/10/x0vt.jpg
Clio 16v rear beam with 172 Stub axles
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/819/4sem.jpg
Lewis many thanks great help, defo going to do that,:agree::agree::agree:
Good ole mod! Allows you to set camber too!
Why don't you just get 16v abs hubs for the front?
Or even easier, Clio 2 non sport hubs (exactly the same)
Only a small update, Cam cover off and sent to CTM for some Hydro Dipping, and ECU has been sent back to Scoff as IGn 2 output is not working. Car again now back of the road:cry:
:(
It still worked if I wanted to keep it on dizzy using the IGN 1 output but the intention always was to use the wasted spark setup I had it was only when I went to put in wasted that I realised something was not right would only run on 2 cylinders, so a voltage test showed IGN 2 not doing anything. hoping scoff can fix what ever needs doing within the ecu.
I have installed the wasted spark setup awaiting the ECU return, I have also added to the loom for launch control Digital input 1 and the MVSS and SVSS wires for the hub sensors
Some modding required. According to Matt@coderedmotorsport "Heat up the stub, knock it out with a big hammer, cut the small flange off, grind/file it flat, modify the threads to accept countersunk bolts, bolt on 1*2 stubs with shims if you have some. Easy peasy!
Did it to one of the R5 gt turbos we race and my mk1 16v. Valvers use m8x1 bolts on the standard beam. The bolts are too short to re-use.
172 use 3 m10x1.5 and 1 m8x1.25 thread.
Drill out all 4 holes to 8.5mm and tap in a m10x1.5 thread into the beam.
And also drill out the fourth hole on the stub axle bigger to accept the m10 bolt. Top left one I believe.
You could in theory just find 4 longer m8x1 bolts use the standard holes and create a shim insert in the 172 stub axle to close up the hole.
But seeing as all the standard renault stuff fits I just bought 2 extra m10 bolts."
Images borrowed from Clio Sport
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/8443/s6ir.jpg
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/4418/5pbw.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6981/re8x.jpg
Clio 16v std rear width
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/10/x0vt.jpg
Clio 16v rear beam with 172 Stub axles
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/819/4sem.jpg
Lewis do we know ho much wider doing the 172 rear stub axle conversion will make the gtt?? using these bit's??
Will add about 1cm each side iirc
Will add about 1cm each side iirc
:agree:Cheers Arthur looking at my current setup I should have enough clearance at present for that as I am running ET37 Alloys and only 7" wide aswell
Got a couple of update pic's from CTM this morning on my cam cover looking good apparently still not finished it yet, think some more clear coats and a polish up. I only went for a white background and a honeycomb effect, didn't want anything in your face. Now thinking of getting my cam pulleys done in a flame effect orange.
I also picked up all the 172 hub's, shafts, calipers, discs and I had to remove the stub axles of the clio myself last night what a bugger why do Renault use torx bolts on areas prone to heavy rusting :-( still I got them off after destroying several torx sockets
The clio phase 1 172 bit's, this discs and pads are apparently new and DS2500 lets see when I strip them down to clean everything up, they need a bloody good clean up.
Cam cover looks cool. Do they apply this like a transfer in a dip?
Looks like they bodged a bit but it wont be seen once you have the plastic cover in place?
Really liking the cam cover. Will be a nice addition to the bay :smokin:
Cam cover looks cool. Do they apply this like a transfer in a dip?
Looks like they bodged a bit but it wont be seen once you have the plastic cover in place?
Yeah I noticed that also luckily it's under the plastics. From what I have seen its applied exactly as yiu describe
I'm not sure if the O/Side driveshaft is correct, did you get the parts from a clio 172 with the phase 2 front end?
I'm not sure if the O/Side driveshaft is correct, did you get the parts from a clio 172 with the phase 2 front end?
The parts came off a green Phase 1 172 Exclusive I didn't remove the front end it was already off the car inside it, I took the stub axle's off though:agree:
Your right it does look different quick search and its a 182 version that bolts to the rear of the block.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391234226435?clk_rvr_id=897568462801&rmvSB=true
You need the one piece 172 shaft without the additional support onto the rear of the block for the widetrack conversion.
Alastair
17-09-2015, 09:08
You need the one piece 172 shaft without the additional support onto the rear of the block for the widetrack conversion.
But how wide is wide...:wasntme::smokin:
:agree::agree::agree:
But how wide is wide...:wasntme::smokin:
:agree::agree::agree:
See the 182 shaft might be ok as I am going to have to cut these down anyway seeing as I am not going full wide track I am merely fitting the 172 hubs only but that alone gives me a 14mm wider track in total at the front and about the same at the rear with the 172 stub axles in place some 1 deg neg camber at the rear using 172 shims:agree:
Hydro cam cover fitted (not best of lighting for pic though), Ill get another tomorrow:agree:
turbo ted
21-09-2015, 22:02
Your going to hate me james the second bigger breather on rocker cover drill it out bigger with 8/10mm drill bit;)
Your going to hate me james the second bigger breather on rocker cover drill it out bigger with 8/10mm drill bit;)
:laugh: noooo :laugh: if it's your recommendation I will do it. What's the reason for opening it up more?
Your rocker cover reminds me of a duvet and curtain set I had back in the 90's..... :cooter:
Your rocker cover reminds me of a duvet and curtain set I had back in the 90's..... :cooter:
LOL it is pretty oldskool style.
Daylight pic attached
Well now I am not so depressed lets talk about my last couple of day's. I had mapping done on the 07/10/2015, I fitted new Siemens Deka 630cc injectors. took the 1hr 20min drive to Surrey Rolling Road for Ed @ Fusion Motorsport to map my R5.
The results were ok not as good as I hoped as he kept it safe and said my exhaust manifold was causing a massive restriction. I ended up with 330.5bhp @19psi which isn't to bad at that boost. I was hoping for another 50bhp on top of that he did say he could have got me that but the manifold temperatures would have been way to high and as said I had a restriction on the ex manifold side. Downside to the map is the car won't start on a cold start :-( but then that side always takes a few day's to sort so I will attempt to do this part myself with help form the adaptronic forums.
Anyway the car came of the rollers and the turbo was rather loud just on idle (Bearing noise) we did a small road test and all seemed fine. 5mins into my journey home with no traffic I called the RAC to take me home. the GT2871r bearing core had failed:-(
On the road side I pulled the oil feed off and had a look and cranked over poured out fine, the oil pressure gauge is also T into the turbo oil feed and the pressure was perfect, I removed the core adaptor and again this was blockage free, now I tried to look down the turbo core and has they have a restrictor built in on these I couldn't see any blockages. Removed the air filter pipe and the turbo has very small amount of play but when bearings spun sounds awful.
Couple of pic's attached
Looks like I know what my restriction might have been seeing as the log manifold has been proven for 400bhp on a few car's now.
Turbo now off, trying to rtn it to the company I got it from but from what I have read and speaking with a good friend whom is a turbo specialist warranties don't cover BB core's so now crapping myself. I bought the item through ebay shop (yes genuine garrett) and I last night opened a paypal dispute, so let's see what happens on that.
Couple of pic's of turbo, blades all good and housing all still good, would appear to be the bearing gone only, but on a BB believe the bearing and rear wheel / shaft would need replacing and that's if a turbo company would sort.
Seem to have not much luck with this car :( that's what I am worried about with the turbo on mine. spending out a lot of cash to then go like that
Seem to have not much luck with this car :( that's what I am worried about with the turbo on mine. spending out a lot of cash to then go like that
Tell me about it, I haven't found anything wrong with the setup yet, drained the oil and looks really really clean and I ditched the oil filter aswell even though the oil and filter only covered the run to the RR and the session (So less than 80miles on it).
Well new Turbo core ordered :cry:
I also decided to ditch my complete original turbo oil feed setup including adaptors, So a trip to my local Pirtek (Crawley) and they made me a brand new line with all new adaptors for £67 :eek:
I was hoping to use the small bit of cash I had put aside for the car to get a decent manifold and downpipe made or pick up a 2nd hand one doesn't look like that will be happening for some time now :crap:
I still need to sort out the cold start map but can't do anything until the turbo is sorted and the hopefully get the car to pod on the 24th
James, are you running a restrictor in the oil line to the RB turbo? I'm sure we used to on the Nissans.
James, are you running a restrictor in the oil line to the RB turbo? I'm sure we used to on the Nissans.
I wasn't running a restrictor, but the GT28 series RB's have a built in restrictor in the core already. I have spoken to a few Turbo places ref sourcing new core's and the restrictors and they have all said not to use a restrictor. My New turbo oil line has been setup to run no restrictor but I am currently looking for a filter to go inline.
The reason I have replaced my oil line and all the adaptor's is that on close inspection after all my faults it had a couple of bad kinks in it and undoing one of the adaptors it had a some sealant or something on it's thread (I assume a past bodge by someone to stop a leak), and I wondered if the pipe is internally damaged or any of the sealant had perished overtime and got stuck in the core causing a restriction on higher flow visually I can't see any blockages in the built in restrictor and the pipe seemed to flow perfect but something might have gone through it and blocked internally so for peace of mind I renewed it all.
Seeing as the Pressure sensor is just before this feed and oil pressure was perfect even after the turbo failed.
https://youtu.be/WcY-pbu3M0Q
turbo ted
14-10-2015, 21:56
Whos doing that Is it yours been re- done James
Yep that's mine :D
Couple of pic's of the replaced bearing and then the outer balance wheels and correctly balanced wheels screen shots
Decided to take a long drive yesterday to collect my turbo so I can get on with getting thing's ready :agree: Top job done was only expecting the CHRA core to be sorted and clean but my rear housing looks brand new again :agree:
Lowiepete
17-10-2015, 13:25
...but my rear housing looks brand new again :agree:
It shows how much cleaning techniques have advanced too. The tech that's
now available is mind-blowing! Even with simple things like soaps, I'm trialling
a waterless wash that's so silky smooth you'd think you were waxing rather
than washing. Once my R5 is back on the road it'll go to a CO2 specialist,
who'll render the entire engine bay absolutely spotless.
James, I'm just in awe at the finance you're throwing into this hobby. It's clearly
well worth it :niceone:
Regards,
Steve
Progress
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh25/GTTJames/G567%20SMR/F7pt%20conversion/th_20151018_132637_zpsfyxdbksc.mp4 (http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh25/GTTJames/G567%20SMR/F7pt%20conversion/20151018_132637_zpsfyxdbksc.mp4)
Small update car has been running really well haven't had to do to much other than the odd tidy up of bit's.
Lubed the window regulators, and I replaced the Passenger side window motor as this never worked when I got the car, feels weird now having working windows :D.
I also had a slight power issue which turned out to be the F7p alternator just not good enough and my battery light would be on as soon as I had more than 2 thing's on. So I ditched the F7p 70amp alt and fitted a clio 182 110amp alternator which has sorted my issue out :-) I had to modify my lower bracket to fit this as mounting point on 182 alternator higher than my F7p one. Couple of Male and femal rose connections and some bolts and all was sorted.
Had an odd issue the other eve at the local surrey meet in which my car decided to smoke for unknown reason (was a very wet eve) the car has not done this since and compression test done and all good no leaks or loss of fluids, all I have done is raise the idle revs from 750 rpm's to 1100rpm's just in case it was a back pressure issue
Pic of the M8 Rose joint's male and female used to extend Alt lower bracket for 182 calt fitment,
Wiring the Alt is pretty straight forward, Big thick red cable to B+ on alt, the alt earths through it's body to block, the single cream / white wire (black plug) on the 172/182 alt is for the dash light.
yes james pics plz as ill need to do this at some point
Couple of pic's of the deserted surrey meet this month, weather was shocking :cry:
Silver Ph2 GTT. So few around! :crush:
Silver Ph2 GTT. So few around! :crush:
It's Efi aswell running omex 600 and Micheal Tierney inlet
Well Been playing with the ECU recently and sorted myself out with some pop's and bangs for the proper chav effect lol Doing this has caused a bit of a flammage issue with the side exit and in the I fear I am going to set fire to my sideskirt I bodged a quick heatshield out of some that high temp gold reflective stuff (Temporary until I get a rear exit system).
I also finally ditched the crappy std valver lower rad pipe that had a tendancy to split now got a decent coolant set-up with no worry of any splitting. i even recalibrated my ecu to match the gtt temp gauge:agree:
francob80
19-12-2015, 21:15
I love flames, any vids ?
I love flames, any vids ?
Unfortunately I have no vid's of the flames, I have a few of the pops and bang's but sounds so much louder in the flesh
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh25/GTTJames/G567%20SMR/F7pt%20conversion/th_20151220_142302_zpsvco9rxkp.mp4 (http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh25/GTTJames/G567%20SMR/F7pt%20conversion/20151220_142302_zpsvco9rxkp.mp4)
francob80
20-12-2015, 20:28
Haha, I get the picture.
Here is mine from earlier today - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btzg_kyI704
Haha, I get the picture.
Here is mine from earlier today - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btzg_kyI704
Mark, that's pretty cool is that using a Launch control and some rich fueling?? what have you get it set at@
francob80
21-12-2015, 12:26
Mark, that's pretty cool is that using a Launch control and some rich fueling?? what have you get it set at@
Yeah Omex launch control, fuelling isnt overly rich though. Need to up my fuel pressure a tad, it's a bit lean past 6500rpm.
Haha, I get the picture.
Here is mine from earlier today - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btzg_kyI704
sounds brilliant!!! its similar to mine (yours is better and more flames!) when riding the clutch on the armtech flat shift mode :devil:
What revs is the launch set to?
francob80
21-12-2015, 16:14
sounds brilliant!!! its similar to mine (yours is better and more flames!) when riding the clutch on the armtech flat shift mode :devil:
What revs is the launch set to?
It's set to about 5.5k at the mo, the actual limiter is set to 7500.
Small update sidey off :D and I have replaced it with a New GTTuning 2.5" Cybersport exhaust system :D
I have also been playing with the ECU further added launch control.
Oh and Rear window sticker
Video of the GTTuning 2.5" cybersport system .
https://youtu.be/T-owKDEF8LI
Well not updated this in a while but then to be honest the car has been doing very well, currently have an exhaust blow think between the turbo and manifold as my afr's reading's are rather lean and the fact I can see daylight when under the car between the exhaust manifold and the turbo shows and issue LOL and I can hear the blow as well so will be looking into that over the next few day's (Did have a gasket in place but looks like it's non existent know.
Still need to sort my cold start idle out as replaced the ICV for a enw one and it's thrown it all out again :-( I can get the car to crank idle for a bit then it just dies, does this for about 5-6 attempts then it's fine I will spend sometime at some point sorting this out.
I have also decided to increase my braking efficiency and got hold of a set of 285mm Hi spec Calliper setup to which I am fitting Thursday morning (Day off work). :D
I also need to replace the rear dampers as they are rather soft, borrowed a set of rear GAZ to put on for now :agree:
Also had the car professionally cleaned on Saturday by a friend whom is a valeter for a living done a great job car looks like new again exterior wise :-)
Ok well the leak was not just the exhaust to turbo gasket which was half missing, but I also found 2 huge cracks in the turbo downpipe :-(
So manifold gasket replaced and turbo gaskets replaced, need to get the downpipe urgently welded as I need to use car thursday to get the 4 pots fitted :-)
Is the downpipe cracked at the exhaust flange where you had to modify it? :(
No it's got 2 huge cracks at the top end looks like they could have been caused due to engine movement as the downpipe is solid has no flex bends in it (will have to look into engine mounts aswell) even thought they are pretty new I may have damaged them with the power being run).
I was going to get custom made downpipe and manifold but fund's limited due to 4 pot calliper purchase so got a friend tig welding it up as I write this :D
Looking at the downpipe bore it's only a 2.25" downpipe so I may in the next month get a 3" into 2.5" bore one made with a flexi in it and see if that will help it flow better.
Suppose I should have updated the thread yesterday, anyway downpipe was repaired and I fitted it yesterday and have driven the car to work today :-) enjoying the nice weather whilst it last's. Popping to Hayward's Heath this morning in the 5 for a Pre-op so again will enjoy the drive later this morning :agree:
To do list
Fit HiSpec 285mm 4 pot brake set-up,
Fit G60 22.2mm Master cylinder,
Fit rear goodridge (Red brake lines),
Fit Rear Gaz dampers,
Fit new fuel pump (When it arrives),
Matt Cole
25-03-2016, 23:13
Post up how you get on with the brakes James. I have the same setup to go on and need the bigger ms.
Post up how you get on with the brakes James. I have the same setup to go on and need the bigger ms.
:agree::agree: Will do just awaiting the MS to turn up now and some better weather and I will get on with it :-) Hope it's not going to be a bugger to get the ms in place as not much space to at rear of engine now
Well Hispec calipers and disc's fitted and the std GTT master cylinder removed not the easiest to do in situ, not looking forward to getting the lines back in when new one arrives.
I also had to totally remove the drives side line from master cylinder to caliper as the connection to rubber brake line was seriously messed up bad :-( so i now need a decent spare short brake serve line to braided brake line.
Also does anyone know the thread size and type for the brake line to rubber brake pipe?? I need to get adaptor for the new lines as slightly to small
Before and after pic attached, I will replace the old bolts with new once I get it all up and running again
Ok I managed to fit the new VW G60 (22.22mm) master cylinder this eve, what was a pain is the lack of space to get the brake lines back into the servo took me a bit of time to get them in and done up properly but they are in, all I need to do now is bleed the system went to do it this eve with an eezie bleed and a tyre @ 10psi and the fluid decided to piss out the rubber pipes connectors under the reservoir (and they are brand new) looks like I may have to get someone to help and do it the old push peddle way.
Matt Cole
30-03-2016, 23:27
Excellent that. They certainly look the part behind the wheels. The one good thing about my conversion is that the ms is easily accessible. Cant upload pics at the minute..:cry:
Well managed to bled the brakes by myself today without the eezie bleed crap kit, rear's took some bleeding but all done now. Not driven the car yet though but won't get todo that for the next 4-5wks now :-(
G60 MC and GTT MC
The F7p GTT is going through it's next upgrade progression which will hopefully see me to 400bhp ish give or take turbo dependant.
3" Throttle body adaptor,
Ported and polished big valve head,
Inlet manifold ports matched to gasket,
Kent RN1601 cams,
Piper vernier's,
Kent valve springs,
Wossner Pistons,
Arrow Precision Forged rods,
ARP rod bolt's,
Upgraded main bolts,
Fully blueprinted and lightened bottom end,
215mm Helix paddle clutch (just had new pads),
Baffled Sump,
And booked in for a remap in the next few weeks but this time I am getting Scoff to work his magic and get what he can out of the setup, then come October Ill be looking at exhaust manifold and downpipe, Should be replacing the gearbox in the next month also with a bolted in diff type http://turborenault.co.uk/styles/default/xenforo/clear.png
304303043130432
Blimey, that's big spec :eek:
Blimey, that's big spec :eek:
Agreed :agree: sounds awesome!!! Looking forward to seeing this. makes a tuned 200+bhp c1j sound puny :laugh:
Well managed to get it running on Friday afternoon, had to get the ole timing light out and amend my map /ECU file to get it to run.
As I have such a long drive for mapping in a couple of weeks, I have purchased some new rubber for the GTT :-) Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3's. And I am going to replace the front brake lines as noticed one has been catching. Hopefully sort this week when i get some spare time to bleed it all.
Little video of how it sounds on idle now.
https://youtu.be/YlASFwNX73c
Matt Cole
22-05-2016, 12:26
Sounds like some overlap going on there!
Slight update since I have fitted a rebuilt clio 089 - 172 gearbox with bolted diff I am now without a speedo so I have now fitted the following :
Valver ABS N/S & O/S driveshaft,
Valver ABS N/S & OS Hub's,
I have left the O/S Valver Abs ring in situ as I think I can use this as a speed signal for my Adaptronic 440 ECU, I have removed the N/S abs ring though and fitted the OS8472 12 tooth ring in its place.
All I need to do now is make up some kind of space to allow fitment of the gtt speedo sensor as it's way to long for the hole at present.
Matt Cole
09-06-2016, 13:22
Well managed to bled the brakes by myself today without the eezie bleed crap kit, rear's took some bleeding but all done now. Not driven the car yet though but won't get todo that for the next 4-5wks now :-(
G60 MC and GTT MC
James, did you have to adjust the servo rod at all with that MS? The one I have was quite difficult to push in as the piston is longer. Got an air leak on mine when only partially depressing the pedal??:rant:
James, did you have to adjust the servo rod at all with that MS? The one I have was quite difficult to push in as the piston is longer. Got an air leak on mine when only partially depressing the pedal??:rant:
Hi Matt, no it was awkard to get on due to limited space with engine in situ but it went in with a push and has been working fine. Is the rubber O ring ok and not pinched up
Matt Cole
09-06-2016, 20:03
It sounds like it's leaking back through the servo but I think the diaphragm is ok?? It only leaks when the pedal is depressed maybe 1/4 of the full available travel.
Not updated this in a while but I still havent driven the 5 properly its basically been sat idling and the coolant pipes getting rock hard :-(
I decided to bite the bullet and pull the engine out and apart only just got around to starting to strip it down.
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how comes you took the pistons and rods out for a headgasket issue?
how comes you took the pistons and rods out for a headgasket issue?
Was block not HG the block has the hairline crack in it causing the pressure problem :-( on search for another F7p block now
Bugger.... engine stripped again!!!!! Is that a common fault or hate you just been horrendously unlucky?
Bugger.... engine stripped again!!!!! Is that a common fault or hate you just been horrendously unlucky?
Must be a common fault although my last turbo engine was fine it's the new one, but all the engine I have picked up trying to get a good block all have these crack's which cause the headbolts to lift hence pressure in the coolant :-( I have 5 f7p engines now so plenty of spare heads just blocks fecked unless anyone knows someone whom can fix them
Matt Cole
29-07-2016, 14:51
I would get it cold welded and then use arp studs instead of bolts. Might be worth a go.
I would get it cold welded and then use arp studs instead of bolts. Might be worth a go.
Cold welding be nice if the original block can be saved would save alot of agro, its trying to find somewhere down my neck of the woods that can do it.
I have been thinking about the arp stud conversion not cheap as I need to have special spacers made as I have to use and F4r kit from what I have seen of Robbie's setup.
Ouch that sucks wonder how much a bare block is from Renault 🤔
Ok so I have finally made some progress and not the route I was expecting to take, seeing as I keep picking up F7p block's that are not of a good enough quality I was offered an F7r meg engine I had to think about this as my pistons were oversized I was very confident they would fit the bore size so I thought why not:). The f7r engine benefits from extra strengthening webbing on the rear of the block.
So I stripped the head of the F7r and the block had no cracks :agree:. I then got it home and started removing the sump only to find the block had a chain driven oil pump unlike the F7p engine :-( (Wasn't expecting that) at this point I thought oh crap this is a no go, I decided to have a little play and fit one of my pistons on the rod to the F7r crank and see how it would fit and go up and down ok to which it did but I had forgotten about the 7mm extra throw in the F7r crank :-(. I then grabbed a spare F7p crank ( i have a few of these now :laugh:) placed it in situ and fitted one of the meg f7r rods and doing this has dropped the f7r piston down in the bore 7mm perfect so looks like I can use the F7p crank in the F7r block. The next hurdle is the chain driven oil pump having looked at the F7p and F7r crank ends carefully and measured I was confident that the F7p crank can be lathered down to accept the meg f7r chain cog. So today i dropped the block and the cranks downs to the machine shop discussed with them and they were confident they could do what is required (Many thanks for Mick for coming down with me was good to catch up also and I would never have found the place).
So at the end of all this I will still be running a 1.8 just in a 2.0 block with a chain driven oil pump
Few pic's attached
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(Many thanks for Mick for coming down with me was good to catch up also and I would never have found the place).
no probs jim my guys will sort it, it will be one of a kind for sure a hybrid of both engines, and a club first i believe but what actually is it:laugh::laugh:
r or p :laugh::laugh:
james you helped me enough in the past, swings and roundabouts boss
just cant wait to see it running:agree:
remember glyco bearings micks recommendation lol
Flippin' brilliant James! Super cool :cool: Take plenty of pics :agree:
The cranks have been machined for this before. Scoff machined the 1.8 crank to fit in the first f4r turbo he built. This his setup was f4r block and head with Volvo/renault 1.8 crank. Drops the compression low depending on what pistons you use. May be slightly different dependant on the f7r head combustion chamber cc's.
Good luck with it James.
hes using all the f7p stuff except block and oil pump so it should be fine buddy
F7p and r head chambers are the same so no worries their, just different valves and port's etc... bore and compression is still the same :agree:
Picked the bit's up today am please with the work just awaiting the ACL Race bearing's to arrive and I will build up he bottom end :-)
Couple of pic's of the F7p crank modified for the chain oil pump, also had the crank polished aswell (Not that pic show's this) re-honed, and the top face just cleaned and made sure flat, also had the rear of block drilled and tapped for turbo oil rtn.
I do remember now Lewis as you say scoff doing something like this now to his old F4r setup me using the f7p crank in the f7r has just made this an F7p just with a chain oil pump and stronger block
Well decided to take the day off work and I actually spent some time doing the 5 engine which needs a few parts still to be fitted ready to drop in flywheel, clutch, gearbox starter and then I can drop it back in, prob less than full day work to have it back in and ready to start.
Matt Cole
18-08-2016, 21:06
Liking them piper cams!;)
Liking them piper cams!;)
Cheer's hoping the cam's and the headwork allow me to flow for what I am wanting but am thinking my exhaust manifold and downpipe will be my restriction as everything else will do 400bhp+
Had the afternoon off work so done a few thing's on the GTT. Fitted the new vibratechnics engine mounts (very very stiff). Also ditched the alloy header tank so I can see what's going on.
Still need to fit the down-pipe properly, and need to fix a coolant leak that I have found at front of block drivers side.
Couple of update pic's
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turbo ted
22-08-2016, 23:57
Well decided to take the day off work and I actually spent some time doing the 5 engine which needs a few parts still to be fitted ready to drop in flywheel, clutch, gearbox starter and then I can drop it back in, prob less than full day work to have it back in and ready to start.
If the chain driving the oil pump now on the inside what's the timing belt gear on the pump outside gear doing now is it just an idle gear now
If the chain driving the oil pump now on the inside what's the timing belt gear on the pump outside gear doing now is it just an idle gear now
Does nothing as you say it's just an idler gear
Well managed to get out of work early today so pulled the meg lump out the 225 as the guy wanted it this eve so that's now gone. And I spend a bit more time on the 5 and found the small coolant leak was behind the front engine mount it was the pipe that goes into the block looks like it ha been slightly moved on the F7r meg lump this is only held in with a 13mm bolt so I pushed it back in hard added a little sealant to the seal and done the Nut up tight.
Just need to check it in next few days to make sure not leaking anymore and then it's engine mount and bracket back on and alternator. I also done the downpipe up aswell.
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Your making good progress on the new engine build, but For a very brief moment there I thought you had sacked the f7p/r and were going down the f4rt route :laugh:
Your making good progress on the new engine build, but For a very brief moment there I thought you had sacked the f7p/r and were going down the f4rt route :laugh:
It was tempting as I do have a spare F4rt Lump (Needs new rings on cylinder 3)
It's alive and running and covered a massive 2 mile's.
Small video of me trying to setup the 2 step
https://youtu.be/pD-8kK8LfT4
226 miles now covered
Another 2 step video thought would see what like at night
https://youtu.be/MtOn5OmLC1k
Well done!!!!!
Sounds fantastic and looks 😎 any plans to get back on the rollers for mapping?
Well done!!!!!
Sounds fantastic and looks 😎 any plans to get back on the rollers for mapping?
Cheer's Will be having mapping done once I have covered my 500 miles to make sure all good then will contact Scoff and get him to work his magic on it:agree: Imagine it will be mapped end September early Oct if all goes to plan, I want to change the exhaust manifold and downpipe before mapping though
Squeezing out every last pony...... :devil:
Is there any decent manifolds available for the f7p? Or would it need to be a custom jobbie
Squeezing out every last pony...... :devil:
Is there any decent manifolds available for the f7p? Or would it need to be a custom jobbie
No decent off the shelf manifolds :( It would have to be custom made. The log manifold can get to just under 400bhp but it's so restrictive and heat builds up quick due to it's shape and material. It's trying to find a decent stainless fabricator localish that can undertake the job as I would need to leave the car with them to sort.
Matt Cole
29-08-2016, 10:37
Excellent James and awesome stuff!
Speak with Matty off here for the manifold:
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/member.php?5843-Matty
Got to give your self a pat on the back James, this has to be the longest you've owned a car! :laugh:
Much repect and credit to you for sticking at it after reading all the latest dramas. :agree::cool:
Got to give your self a pat on the back James, this has to be the longest you've owned a car! :laugh:
Much repect and credit to you for sticking at it after reading all the latest dramas. :agree::cool:
Wow evening stranger, hope you are well been a long time? Yeah the car has had some good and bad times fingers crossed we are now on the good run.
I managed to change the downpipe over today for a custom 3" Hayward & Scott one :-) just need to change the rest of the exhaust system to 3" now hopefully in October I can get the 3" exhaust sorted and the custom exhaust manifold sorted aswell :-)
Couple of pic's of the custom 3" Hayward & Scott D/P my weld repair on a large crack and grind to clean up
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Well just done over 300 miles on running the engine in all going well so far, was getting frustrated with the lack of speedo and having to rely on the sat Nav, so thought I would have a look into the gtt speedo sensor.
I am using a clio 172 phase 1 gearbox with quaife diff, I have previously fitted clio 1.8 16v abs driveshaft and clio 1.8 16v abs hubs, the shafts are identical length to a gtt other than they have abs ring's on the end's and the hubs are the same other than bigger bearing's and abs mounting points. I knocked the passenger side abs ring off and fitted one of the OS8472 ring's he sell's and made a small spacer to allow the gtt speedo cable to fit snuggly in the clio abs sensor port. Couple of pic's attached of it almost complete.
Fingers crossed when I next use the GTT I will have a working speedo :-)
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Forgot to add done another gearbox fluid change was running the wrong stuff was recommend this
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I now have working Speedo :-)
That's a really interesting mod.. Opens up a few options for different gearboxes and ratios :coffee:
What's it like with the quaife?
That's a really interesting mod.. Opens up a few options for different gearboxes and ratios :coffee:
What's it like with the quaife?
Still wheelspins alot lol The wheel speed sensor was easy to mount thanks to the OS8472 speedo ring.
A little annoyed at the mo my car was hit whilst parked by the local Tesco delivery man delivering food to my house :-( downside is no witness's but I heard him beeping as reversing up and down the side of my house for 15-20min's. :-( the bugger didn't say anything have made complaint to tesco awaiting the 72 hr investigation) am going to get some quotes to sort
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Cracking mod for the speedo. Can't believe the damage. :crap:
Bugger!!!! :mad:...... I feel for you there. Im still hurting from when my 5 was damaged 3 years ago!
Hopefully their investigation gets the right outcome for you
As bad as it is, Atleast the damage looks just superficial and parts can be replaced.
Cheer's guy's. Speedo works perfect, also managed to get my MVSS working on the ecu aswell using the clio valver speedo cable in the back of my phase 1 172 gearbox (had to use the entire cable but only used the 3 wires at the other end (Black = GND, White = 12v+, yellow = Signal wire to ECU).
Had to calibrate the MVSS Speed sensor on the ecu manually but didn't take to long and I now have Launch control / 2step control, flatshift, boost by gear all setup by myself for now so I know it all works for Scoff.
Yeah the damage is very frustrating as I have a few event's to attend this month and was wanting a nice clean car :-( still awaiting the insurers to contact me on the damage rather annoying as would like it sorted asap.
Fitted a new -34 actuator that seems to hold 2bar of boost at 50% wastegate duty:agree:
Got mapping booked in with Scoff aswell now :-) So hopefully I can make what I want power wise now :-)
Not much to add, had a few coolant pressure issue's which would appear to now be sorted :-)
Took the car out last night for the first time in a while, yes I had some minor issue's, 1) coolant pipe had slid of the header tank (looked at header tank the swagged ends were just rubbish so it would have come of anyway),
2) Accelerator cable decided to feck up in side the metal sleeve (No spares on me so no choice but to call the RAC) luckily they had some metal inner cable removed old one and made new one up (I pretty much done the RAC man's job just with his tool's lol I was back up and running again.
Rather a chav video of my antic's last night (Mid life crisis I think).
https://youtu.be/sHt9Ug9eW3k
Matt Cole
14-11-2016, 21:52
Love it james, love the conversion. :agree:
Not much of an update but I have fecked my GT2871r think a little to much antilag :-( basically the rear of the dual bearing core cage has failed and thus caused the compressor wheel to catch the compressor housing and damage the blades, engine is fine.
I have therefore taken the opportunity to get one of the new GEN2 GTX 2867r turbo's with the .86 rear that should be spool better than the GT2871r and it will allow for a better bhp aswell so once on I will be up to Scoff for some mapping although other than my antilag setup the map I done has been doing well @ 2bar.
Ill upload some pics of turbo damage
Some pics
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New turbo has arrived and is now fitted, I am currently awaiting Scoff with a mapping date :agree:
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Matt Cole
09-03-2017, 19:09
Nice!;) should go really well that. Scoff is very busy I'm told 4 plus weeks wait for mapping :(
Nice!;) should go really well that. Scoff is very busy I'm told 4 plus weeks wait for mapping :(
Ideally I am wanting Scoff to map but if its that long a wait I might get the guy I had do it last time Map it for me again. Hoping for over 400bhp this time around
Crikey not updated this for a while, had some ups and downs. Engine had covered over 4000miles since my last update fault free so I booked it in with scoff, drove it to scoffs 5hr fault free, and 3hrs+ on the rollers and the inlet cam thrust bearing decided to disintegrate in the head whilst on the rollers, all was going well up to this point with some strong power figures.
I ended up coming back on an RAC lorry (10hrs to get home).
Anyway pulled the engine apart few day's later 4 bent valves, 1 x fecked kent cam, and the crank was badly damaged beyond repair. So a full rebuild was undertaken, new F4r clio oil pump fitted, new catcam turbos cams fitted, b18ft crank has been utilised and modified to fit, f7r meg head has been used many thanks to Mick for coming down and helping me fit the new valves.
car is back together and I have covered some good mileage and several runs at pod on low boost, i am going to get the car mapped agin over the next few weeks:D
Ill dig some pic's out and upload.
What happened re the Tesco accident??
What happened re the Tesco accident??
Finally got the buggers to pay out :-)
still have a small scuff on the front bump strip but nothing to bad but I got the rest repaired
Small Update I decided to undertake a 172 rear hub conversion on my GTT, I picked up a set of clio 172 sport phase 1 rear hubs about a year ago and never got around to fitting them.
(This is a pain in the arse job all my gtt rear hub bolts seized or snapped on me)
Benefits for the conversion
clio hub spacers,
clio camber shims,
abs sensors,
abs rings,
172 discs can be used,
the use of the abs sensors and rings is more down to the ecu I have the adaptronic 440d universal standalone so these can be wired in for all 4 corner speed sensor readings
Anyway some pics attached
Tools required
30mm Socket for stub axle bolt
18mm Socket and spanner for rear caliper bolts,
19mm 5 sided socket for caliper carrier,
torque wrench
hammer
T45 torx bits
Chisel
m10 x 1.5.. tap
8.5mm drill bit
m10x 50mm 10.9 ht Allen key head flat bolts
Angle grinder cutting and grinding disc's
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Finished conversion but need to see what wheel alignment is like and where i need to add shims
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front Jacking points on the 5 have deteriorated due to an old cage that was fitted and the holes not filled or sealed correctly so over time they have eaten away so getting them cut out and new jacking points fabricated and welded up. I also decided to get my rear tailgate badges refurbished again.
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well thanks to Goobie for the bargain cage, and some mid jacking point replacement welding
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Matt Cole
20-07-2017, 23:12
Welding looks good. I need to finish my other 5's welding this year.;)
lucky i didn't get cage absolute bargain
lucky i didn't get cage absolute bargain
James is a top guy, it's gone to a good home. :agree:
James is a top guy, it's gone to a good home. :agree:
you are too
wish ya got your fecking 5 done james just rebuilt a red 5 and sold in 2 months from scratch
Just needed paintwork but that was it goobs
remember we are here to help and local to YOU!!!!:agree:
Woznaldo
21-07-2017, 11:14
Awesome work on the 172 hub conversion. I too have had all the parts for a while now (six years I think?). I saw a Swiss guy do the conversion first and thought, as you have, the benefits are well worth the effort.
I'm planning on a wide track front too, so I'd probably space the stub axles out to match the front at the same time.
Some more update pic's, jacking point welding all done, just need to seal and that, going to get the cage brackets welded into the car tomorrow:D
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How you get on with the door trim? Do the bars clear it?
I had to loose the front door lower pockets. I just need to put thbcage back in now I've had all the brackets welded in. Just going to spray them all up before i put cage back in and carpet down
Remember, - Pictures or never happened!:cooter:
Matt Cole
22-07-2017, 20:42
Gonna do the 172 front hub swap at some point. May as well do the same at the back!:D
Gonna do the 172 front hub swap at some point. May as well do the same at the back!:D
I was tempted with the front as I have all that also but was concerned with what I would need to do to get all the camber correct. At present I just run valver similar hubs to gtt just big bearings and abs ports
Matt Cole
23-07-2017, 09:34
It's making new drive shafts James that bothers me. I cant be bothered!:eek: Are you using longer shafts and wishbones with the 16v hubs? I would do straight bolt on stuff if that was possible?
It's making new drive shafts James that bothers me. I cant be bothered!:eek: Are you using longer shafts and wishbones with the 16v hubs? I would do straight bolt on stuff if that was possible?
Valver hubs are the same length as the gtt ones :-) only difference is abs rings. I forget you use the meg box
Matt Cole
23-07-2017, 17:07
Yeah I'm using gt hubs though. So if the valver hubs are same apart from bigger bearing I might get a set and swap over.
turbo ted
23-07-2017, 22:55
You should use 172 hubs and 172 driveshaft cv as there a lot stronger than the Gtt shafts cv, as the 172 spline cv are bigger too,
turbo ted
23-07-2017, 22:58
Some more update pic's, jacking point welding all done, just need to seal and that, going to get the cage brackets welded into the car tomorrow:D
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James where did you learn to weld that looks spot on👍
Few more pic's now cage is fully in, few mods to carpet and interior plastic's to allow it to all fit nice
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Final pic for today
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It looks the business in there! :cool:
I see ya used the Allen bolts, looks a lot tidier with them.:agree:
Matt Cole
24-07-2017, 22:25
Looking great James. Some cage that. Are you happy/safe with your harness connection to the bar?
Cage is awesome am well happy with the straps being in the brace, they are properly welded in place and the bar is solid.
Just had my retrieve badges back and now fitted, it's coming on nicely just need to replace the gearbox now as pod made it really noisey on idle. I have a spare box to go in just the lack of time.
I'll upload some pics later
Well the time has come to sell the car on I fancy a change for now so this will be up for sale in the next few weeks:agree:
Another change to the gtt
Had my bonnet louvred in places I wanted
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Looks good. Where did you get that done mate? Was it pricey?
Looks good. Where did you get that done mate? Was it pricey?
The guy that used to run the company cool louveres back in the day lives in Crawley he kept all the equipment and does it on the side now cost me £140 and you can have the louveres in different sizes where ever you want. (i had it sprayed elswhere)
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Looks really well :agree:
Love the louvred bonnet look! I did have one quite a few years ago but sold it. They are subtle and functional. Really suits your car 👍
Matt Cole
27-08-2017, 18:18
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Attended a small meet today meet a couple of other GTT's
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Small update decided to get the car mapped again, had to stop mapping at 364bhp @21psi mapper said my cams needs dialling, in said loads more still to give but wants the cams done before goes further. Should be back for mapping again in the next few weeks.
No major changes other than plate change really, injectors and exhaust manifold are going to be holding the setup back
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Excellent numbers :agree: Nice to see you still making improvements to it.
What gains are you expecting once the cams are dialed?
Matt Cole
24-10-2017, 13:40
Love it James!!:D
Could the mapper not adjust your cams? Shame really as you have adjustable pulleys. I run VVT on mine and have an adjustable exhaust cam. The idea being i can adjust the ex quickly when the VVT is engaged for optimal lift.
Love it James!!:D
Could the mapper not adjust your cams? Shame really as you have adjustable pulleys. I run VVT on mine and have an adjustable exhaust cam. The idea being i can adjust the ex quickly when the VVT is engaged for optimal lift.
Cheers, unfortunately he wouldn't touch the cams :-( getting them dialled in next week, one of my friends runs a local Alfa Romeo garage and has the equipment to dial in so is going to do it next week, hopefully get it back up for mapping in the next few weeks
Excellent numbers :agree: Nice to see you still making improvements to it.
What gains are you expecting once the cams are dialed?
It's currently on low boost we are going to keep going until the injectors max out or the exhaust manifold holds it back
That’s some result James! Triple the standard cj1 power and still chasing for more, lol.
I have built something which is a little easier to get hold of parts now, still fully forged including a forged crank this time around. Base engine is a phase 1 172, (big port head)
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Matt Cole
06-02-2018, 18:25
Nice bit of f4r power James!!!;)
More of a mental note for me this really -
The 172 / 182 VVT setup is a simple on / off system, therefore on the 420d / 440 universal ecu's you just setup and aux output based on RPM (no wastegae functions is required), I will add the VVT details shortly
Matt Cole
07-02-2018, 13:04
More of a mental note for me this really -
The 172 / 182 VVT setup is a simple on / off system, therefore on the 420d / 440 universal ecu's you just setup and aux output based on RPM (no wastegae functions is required), I will add the VVT details shortly
Yes although i trigger mine on MAP. ;)
Yes although i trigger mine on MAP. ;)
You using the map2 function? any more details or screenshots from WARI as to how? Is the VVT on f4r 225 as the f4r 172 / 182?
First start, still using my F7 map with no mods, no exhaust, no icv fitted. not even got timing gun out yet either
https://youtu.be/g9rZVPC1jBQ
Matt Cole
02-03-2018, 18:44
You using the map2 function? any more details or screenshots from WARI as to how? Is the VVT on f4r 225 as the f4r 172 / 182?
I trigger the solenoid on aux out , roughly at 85kpa. I use a 172 head James mated to a 225 block and run lower compression. It's to try and get my big blower spooling. I also run a 197 exhaust cam.
Well it's up and running currently done 79 miles on the car, doing aload of mapping myself will book on the pro mapper to finish it off.
Even added a splitter to the GTT (Already caught it twice)
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Awesome 👍
Another great install James. What have you done to retain the standard bonnet?
I picked up a full 182 engine this week to strip and rebuild for a turbo conversion, so any pointers will be welcomed
Hi only had to modify the front engine mount itself to lower the engine 30mm, this gave me enough clearance for OE bonnet to fit, downside is that engine mount is solid and i can eel it through the car, all the other mounts are vibra jobs.
You will need to back convert the 182 to phase 1 inlet of get a phase 1 TB and drill and tap the phase 2 inlet to accept it. Then you can have cable throttle. Quiet a straight forward conversion, dephaser and belt are easy don't let anyone scare you that they are a pain, you do need the correct tools though, oh and change the crank pulley to the megane 225 version as it has woodruff key. All pulley on the 172 / 182 are just floating (Scary thought really)
Wish I had taken a pic of the bottom end open as I run a forged crank in this engine aswell
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turbo ted
03-04-2018, 22:48
:smokin:
Well it's up and running currently done 79 miles on the car, doing aload of mapping myself will book on the pro mapper to finish it off.
Even added a splitter to the GTT (Already caught it twice)
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Matt Cole
07-04-2018, 10:39
Very nice! Are you using the dephaser then James?
Very nice! Are you using the dephaser then James?
Yeah still using the dephaser and have vvt wired in. Stock 172 cam's, catcams springs and supertech valves:-)
Had the old car mapped @ 23psi
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new boots 195/50/15 profile going to have to raise rear a tad as they catch
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Matt Cole
05-05-2018, 18:57
Awesome James! I've been on with my fuel system to hopefully get it mapped!
Matt Cole
05-05-2018, 18:58
new boots 195/50/15 profile going to have to raise rear a tad as they catch
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I think I need a set of 15's. I'm struggling to find decent 45 series tyres
Awesome James! I've been on with my fuel system to hopefully get it mapped!
I've still not finished my surge tank setup, I have to make sure my car stays at over 1/2 tank and its fine.
Got few things to sort out before pod now
Fuel tank breather's (Pump clicks constantly when filling now),
campus filler neck fitment
Surge tank setup,
Front camber bolt fitment and setup,
I had to raise the car 10mm for clearance of the 50 profile tires and even then they catch, whilst i raised I fitted the new koni rear dampers
Main reason for going 50 was the lack of 45 choice
Matt Cole
06-05-2018, 09:47
I run 5mm spacers on the front just to give me a little clearance on the coil overs as I run a 10" spring for full damping benefit. The rears don't scrub at all but I am still on 40 series tyres. I'm not bothered about ride height as long as it clears speed bumps and handled well.
Few pics, change of plan with surge tank bought another kit mounted it in boot, just easier, now have an 044 lift pump and and 044 supply pump hopefully this will get rid of the half tank fuel starvation issue I was suffering with previously.
Raised the car 10mm for clearance on the new 50mm profile tiles, whilst at it I fitted the new koni dampers I have had for years. Had the car tracking all re-done and fitted some camber bolts at front aswell. Car feels and drives so much better now.
Hopefully be ready for pod very soon, bonnet currently at bodyshop for repairs
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Matt Cole
20-05-2018, 22:08
Looks brilliant James! How's the noise of the 044 in the Car? What sized fuel lines did you use?
danr5Gtt
23-05-2018, 21:15
Looks Great James, can't wait to see you at Pod. :agree:
few changes finally sorted my coolant issues turned out both gauge sensor for gtt clocks not working and the ecu sensor aswell all done and all fine.
Carbon bonnet fitted,
New clutch fitted,
Broke the clutch support on first attempt to drive the car :-( now looking at making a support bracket that comes of the gearbox main bolts and other places, keeps bracket in std place but secured in a few places and braces to stop it pivoting o n the thin upper bit of the bracket
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Small update as I destroyed my Jc5 130 box recently I have decided to clean and replace a few parts, recently purchased a clio Williams sub frame setup apparently triple skinned. Benefits are the rad has a nice slot to sit in now which it didn't have on the gtt frame. Had the frame and subframe brackets all cleaned and powder coated. Gloss red frame and gloss black brackets, Ill be taking a few more parts over to the powdercoaters in new year
the engine bay will be getting a spray job in the next month by GTTurbo spares
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Matt Cole
27-12-2018, 00:28
Awesome that James! Probably something I'm going to do in the future although I can't change my subframe as it's heavily modded for the ndo gearbox and radiator clearence. I might pull it off and seam weld it all to stop flexing. I guess that's why your going 16v subframe?
What gearbox are you replacing the j series with?
Awesome that James! Probably something I'm going to do in the future although I can't change my subframe as it's heavily modded for the ndo gearbox and radiator clearence. I might pull it off and seam weld it all to stop flexing. I guess that's why your going 16v subframe?
What gearbox are you replacing the j series with?
Cheers Matt, I've got a jc5 129 box I am going to use with a quaife diff, I just don't see the point in changing to the o2m when I have seen a fair few fail now on the clio turbo conversion's the same way a JC5 goes.
danr5Gtt
07-01-2019, 18:05
Looks amazing James 👍👍. You certainly will be happy once the bay has been painted too. Top work as always 😎👍
Couple of updates and still more ongoing, also got a quaiffe box sorted to fit also
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Markey Mark (BD)
01-04-2019, 07:33
Looking good mate
Matt Cole
01-04-2019, 20:19
Very nice matey. Manifold looks stout
Well, looks like this is the end of this thread for me as I have now SOLD the GTT.
I will still come to all events though just won't be in anything french.
Matt Cole
28-07-2019, 10:30
Very sad time James. Hope you stick around. 😔
Very sad time James. Hope you stick around. 😔
Best car club around won't be going anywhere
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Matt Cole
04-08-2019, 23:52
And very very nice!!!;)
Had the GTR almost three weeks now
Few upgrades,
Linney racing Discs and pads all round with billet bells,
SMT upper boost pipes with Tial BOV's ordered,
2 x rear Michelins ps4 tyres also now fitted.
I am now so skint, the family will be eating beans for the next month
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Matt Cole
23-08-2019, 23:47
Worth every penny I imagine!! 😄
2019 this seems like only yesterday. Suppose doesn’t help the car is back locally and not owned by myself.
I still have a hobby car but have moved on a little bit but do miss the gtt.
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