View Full Version : cam time.
so after having a cam pully and springs sat on my workbench for the best part of 6 months i though it best i get it fitted. this then turned into a full engine strip down and rebuild.
so for the last few weeks the block has been cleaned inside and out. painted and the bottom end clutch ect has been balanced. picked up the crank today and got started.
just a few questions i can turn the bottom end by hand but feels a bit stiff is this just to not being fully oiled yet or just down to new parts or both
The bottom end should turn over fairly easily, there are a few tight spots but nothing major.
How tight is it?
turns easy enough but just like you discribe tight in places. all new bearings and lots of oil used when fitting together. just worring about things as i expected it to be turning freely all the way round if that makes sense.
Sounds fine, if you had to swing off the ratchet then you need to worry, should be no more than a small amount of force.
Best way to make sure is use assembly lube and keep turning over as you go. Assembly lube pretty much stays put until you put oil in, at which point it dissolves. Don't worry tho people have been putting engines together with just oil for years and all has been well. Turning it over by hand doesn't produce anywhere near the load when the engine is running and trying to pull the car ;)
cheers phil. might get some of that lube for the build things have not yet been torqued up yet so can remove and apply it to all the parts. been about 10 years since i last built a engine complete so just wanted to make sure all was going ok.
not bad a 3 week project turned into 5 months. but all is now finished along with a few more bits.
engine spec is
285 fast road cam and vernier pully
uprated springs
balanced bottom end
rehoned liners
green box clutch
EFI
T28 turbo
after mpping its now at 213BHP @24.6 PSI.
it also has good tourqe numbers.
so just need to get the lag down a bit now but as its a t28 going to take a bit of work.
Nice one! Always good when it all comes together :agree:
Wooohooo well done mate. :agree:
got a one piece 2 1/2 inch downpipe. but have also just ordered a side exit as I found out the exhaust on mine is only a 2 1/2 inch for the first 2 inch then down to 2 inch. need to track down a raceland manifold now to have the exhaust gases hitting the turbo in even pulses and see if we can get the lag down a bit.
Good how it carries on making power even after the tourq starts to drop off, what did you set the 285 too?
Bet it pulls nice high up in fourth :cool:
Make sure you brace the turbo or downpipe if you fit a raceland manifold mate or it's likely to crack mate.
I think cgb are selling tubular manifolds that are the same as phil has on his red monster powered five. Think the runners are bigger than the raceland one so more flow. ;)
phil I set it at 112 must of measured and checked about a dozen times to make sure it was correct. it pulls like a train was amazed what a difference the cam made.
logg I still have the existing brackets and have got hold of a flange so I can make a support for the turbo. I will be using a existing bolt hole from gearbox to engine some steel bar and a longer bolt to take the weight of the turbo and downpipe. ill have a look at cgb site later.
Good lad. :)
When I fitted the efi manifold with the raceland manifold me and Big Dan had to take a grinder to the inlet manifold to help it fit. Just a warning like.
iPhone link to posh looking fannymold.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=160966943171
Romil Davda
07-09-2014, 19:20
I was just about to post up my non-cracked Raceland manifold for £125. You can have first dibb's if you want? Can get a pic if needed, as i'll need to take some for the for sale post! Let me know.
cheers logg wont be the first time ive had to trim something to make it fit. got the scars to prove it. :)
romil
if you could get us a pic that would be great.
thanks
Hi ya dude after some advise hopeing you can help was goin to,order a 285 cam from gt turbo spares but mike messaged back sayin re bring or blank I ain't got a clue can you help, also I'm getting adjustable pulley and valve springs is there any thing else for the engine I would need hope you can help thanks alot
go for the blank cost a little more but worth it. a regring is where a old cam is reprofiled. a blank is cut to the spec you want. do what you can while the engine is in bits and as funds will allow. I had my bottem end balanced new shells /bearings ect.
side exit and downpipe now fitted. a little bit louder round town but what a sound on the motorway. :) that much fun was going to do another lap of the m60. :laugh:
B18ftMOJO5
10-09-2014, 17:05
side exit and downpipe now fitted. a little bit louder round town but what a sound on the motorway. :) that much fun was going to do another lap of the m60. :laugh:
Good stuff Roy. :agree:
Ok thanks a lot will get a blank then
Romil Davda
14-09-2014, 14:23
Can't upload pics from my iPhone. Are you on FB?
Romil Davda
14-09-2014, 14:25
Pic
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