Need help with b18ft links [Archive]

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Nottswoody

29-06-2013, 10:14

Hi guys its hard finding threads on b18ft builds as I only have the iPhone.

Could you help out and let me know who's got threads and links?

Thanks for the help :)

Andyturbo!

29-06-2013, 10:22

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=19258

May help ya pal

Nottswoody

29-06-2013, 10:31

Brilliant thanks

Nottswoody

29-06-2013, 11:25

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=19258

May help ya pal

It can't be that easy surely :)

Andyturbo!

29-06-2013, 11:35

:laugh: it seems that way from that thread but some how I can't see it lol

Nottswoody

29-06-2013, 12:09

:laugh: it seems that way from that thread but some how I can't see it lol

Or there is this

#2
davebem
ClioSport Club Member

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Re: Volvo 1.7 Turbo Mods
Theres some useful stuff on this website.

http://www.volvo-480-europe.org/index.php
Reply With Quote
11-11-2008, 21:44 #3
n0rm
Banned
Join Date
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Posts
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Re: Volvo 1.7 Turbo Mods

heres an interesting read ive bookmarked from RTOC mate, there are a few pointers that may indeed help you along the way

1.7 turbo conversion

WHAT ENGINE?
Instead of buying those awful 1.7 renault engines and trying to put a turbo on them you should resort to something else - volvo 1.7 turbo engine commonly found in volvo 440/460/480. Contrary to popular belief, stated on various R5GTT boards, this is a RENAULT engine, you can actually find Renault markings on the block, which is absolutely identical to any F type engine Renault makes (those are 1.7 L in R5 GTE/GTX or other renaults, as a mater of fact 1.8/2.0 16V is also a F block). What was added in volvo is some low compression pistons, Garrett T2 (yes a T2!) turbo, and a complete set of trick Bosch LH jetronic fuel/ignition management. What is trick about it is the fact that it incorporates boost control but more about it later.
The engine develops only 120 HP, but that is with very little boost, probably 0.4 bar, and with a very restrictive cat/exhaust.

BUYING
Ok, the engines in 440/460/480 turbos are identical, and I suggest you find the best you can. If you are in a position to buy a good one from a 440 then I suggest you buy the gearbox too. The reason is simple, 440, in contrary to other 4xx volvos, and R5GTT, has a different gearing, which will not give you any more top speed, but the gears are stacked together a bit more, and 5th is a direct 1:1, which is much better if you like to drive fast somewhere else than on the motorway.
I actually bought both a gearbox and the engine from a 440 and can say that the box is a straight swap for a GTT one, while I somehow find the changing action much better, more precise.

Electronics
When buying make SURE that you get all the electronics, since there are two boxes, one for the fuel, other for the ignition. The ignition box has a small pipe to which vacuum/pressure from the intake manifold is connected.
The wiring loom usually looks like a a big tangled bunch of wires, something that no one can manage, but in reality it consists of 3 sets of wires, which are connected together by some plastic clips:

1. Wires for the lights and indicators - to be separated and thrown away
2. Bosch fuel/ignition wiring loom. Can be identified by two big connectors for the ECU's. Take it out carefully. It also has a bunch of relays which control the fuel pump and ignition.
3. Special wiring loom which is used for the turbo/injector cooling. Now, like GTT, a volvo turbo engine also has a fan which blows air onto the fuel injectors, but it also has a water pump that circulates water through the turbo, even when the engine is shut off (similar pump can be found on R19/Clio 16V). Those are controlled by two (or is it three?) sensors, which you can find under the turbo (on the water line), and screwed to the intake manifold. I took this off and threw it away, did the same thing with the water pump. The pump gives you an added bit of protection, but only if you are stupid enough to shut the engine off immediately after a hard run.

Exhaust
Apart from the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached, which I presume you will take with the engine, you should also take the turbo downpipe, which fits neatly in the GTT with no modifications, and is made to a much higher standard than anything you (or any "tuner") can make. It is also pretty hefty in diameter. If you want you can also take the catalytic converter, which hosts the lambda sensor.
I took the cat, but used a drill to take out the ceramic catalytic converter inside, so I ended with a empty box.

Intake
Make SURE, and I can not stress this enough, to get the airflow sensor. It is a hot wire type, and probably costs more new than you will pay for the whole engine. It is worth checking if the wire is broken, since it can happen, especially if the car was damaged in an frontal accident. Also worth checking is the rubber flexible pipe going from the sensor to the turbo, if broken it will give you headache. Mine was completely destroyed and I had to improvise. It also houses an recirculating type dump valve.

Misc
It is highly unusual to find an engine complete with the intercooler, since it will probably be damaged in the accident, but try to get as many coolant/intercooler hoses as possible, since you will find them useful later.

Ok, you just bought the engine, what is next?

Checking it out
First, open the cam belt cover and examine it or replace. F type engines have, besides the cam, oil pump driven from the belt also. Just above the pump drive you will find a 1/4 inch oil line going under the exhaust manifold to the turbo. This can sometimes crack also. I had to replace mine and did so with the engine in the car which was a pain. Do not buy the original item, but have it made out of a braided flexible teflon hose... much better.

WHAT TO MODIFY

Tuning
Ok, I guess you are not satisfied with 120 horses, so do something about it.
First of all, you do not need the CAT. You can just bolt it off or do what I did and drill the ceramic core out of it. The CAT also houses the lambda sensor, which you can just plug out (it will increase the consumption somewhat but will improve power/driveability). I kept the sensor, but just plug it in when I need to go to MOT.
volvo engine has a very weak wastegate, which is connected to the turbo housing by a little silicone line. On it, you will also find a little electromagnetic valve. This valve is used by ECU to control the boost. I did the following and am suggesting you to do the same: remove the boost control, and change the wastegate. You can not use the one found on the GTT, since there the turbo is turned the other way round, but should buy a normal T25 wastegate. I took mine from a big T25/32 turbo that I am using for my 1.8 16V. I have mine adjusted to 0.6 - 0.8 bar, which might not sound like much but is plenty.
One of the major problems with this volvo engine is that the ignition controler also has an overboost switch. Unlike the GTT, on which it was possible just to plug it out, on the volvo you can not tamper with it. The result is that with this ECU it is not possible to go above 0.9-1 bar.
T2 turbo on 1.7 engine is a bit small, I admit. It is actually a bit bigger than your standard T2 turbo found on the GTT. Tuners would probably call it a STAGE 1 hybrid . If you like your power immediately, and available from low on the rev range, the standard turbo is your best bet. I could see a bigger (T25) one... but I would have to change the electronics to cope with the increased boost. I am not thinking of that, since I have a 1.8 16V turbo waiting to go in.

PUTTING IT IN
Engine mounts
Ok folks, it might say volvo on the intake manifold but it is a normal Renault F type engine. So, the gearbox engine mounts fit, you just need to change the one engine mount that is found on the block. You need the complete mount, not just the rubber, since the metal part that bolts onto the block has a different bolt pattern.
If you want to use your old GTT gearbox you will have no problems, bolting pattern between the GTT engine and a F type one are very similar, and the GTT box has holes for both types. The only thing to chnage is a little metal guide, usually found pressed in the gearbox, around the bolt, near the right driveshaft. You just need to pull it out and place it in the hole nearby. Do not worry, you will see it.

Exhaust
As I said before. Make sure you get the downpipe. You can use it with or without the CAT body, you just need to have someone connect the exhaust. You can use your old GTT one or make a new one. Modifying the GTT one is a 10 minute job at your exhaust specialist nearby.
Do not use an restrictive exhaust. Standard R5GTT one is no good and will rob you of power. Aftermarket ones are ok for the most part.
I first made a side exit one, no silencers, and that one was FUN FUN FUN, but just too loud. Now I use a straight through pipe, 2 inch dia. with no silencers, which exits in the normal position. It is also a bit loud but much better than the side exit one.

Oil cooler
volvo engine uses a sandwich type oil cooler, with the engine coolant water passing trough. This is no good for two reasons: First, it does not do a very good job, and more importantly, the filter sits too high on the block and interferes with the radiator fan. For a while I actually could not install the fan...
I did the following: Use the block that is used on the standard GTT 1400 engine, mounted under the oil filter. It will fit the volvo engine perfectly. Either run the oil through the radiator like on the standard car, or install an external cooler (what I did). I like the cooler found on Opel (vauxhall) Kadett/Astra.

Engine cooling
First of all, remove that stupid electric water pump that you will find on the volvo engine. I is a nice idea but just complicates things. Also remove its wiring loom.
Connect the turbo to one of the water jackets coming out of the head. Water exiting the turbo should run directly to the pump. There is a large metal pipe running around the block in front. It also collects the water from the cabin heater. Do not worry about this, there are plenty of places to connect this.

Top cooling hose, going from the head to the cooler is not a problem, it is straight and not a problem to connect. The hose going to the pump is another story...

F type engines have their water pump positioned lower down on the block, and the pump intake is facing toward the gearbox, instead down as found on the standard 1.4 turbo engine (C type engine).
Additional complication for me, was the fact that I was using a R5 Diesel radiator which itself is much bigger than the standard item, and together with the intercooler covers the whole cars' front.
What I did is find a Renault 25 radiator, which has both intake and radiator exit positioned on the same side. I had to modify it, so that I can turn it upside down, so that the intake/exit sits closer to the gearbox. This gave me a direct line from the head to rad, and a nice, almost straight line, with only one L bend for the lower line. This was by far the biggest modification I had to make to make this engine work.

Intercooler
Now, I have not seen the original volvo intercooler, since it was damaged too much, so I can not speculate, but I used a normal GTT intercooler. I removed the thermo flap long before. Connecting the turbo and engine intake with the intercooler is best left to your creativity, I used a combination of Volvo and Renault hoses, and some pipes I made myself. One thing to watch out for is the first little silicone elbow used by Volvo on the turbine exit. It is a "samco" type rubber, and should definitely be used. Just make sure, with the engine out, that it is properly connected and use a strong clip so that it will not fall off. It is a pain to mount later on, and is difficult to identify a leak there.

This is about it... If you haven't taken your engine out before, let me remind you that this is best done by removing the front subframe. I actually changed the whole engine myself, with basic tools and some improvised lifting jack used lift the engine off the subframe. It took me a two days to exchange the engine, two more weeks to connect everything.... Not a big job if you have time.

What to expect
Ok, let me put it in this way: 0.6-0.7 bar boost, straight through exhaust, no air filter yet, The car spins its wheels through 1, 2, and if the roads are dirty, even 3rd. This is on A520 Yokohamas, 195/45 15. I did some acceleration tests, and while spinning wheels prevent me from posting a good 0-60 time, in high speed acceleration (50-70 and above) it is faster than Civic Type R (old 190 HP one) I could outrun Accord Type R's without problems. Even on standard gearbox, it will do 140 mph, and will get there VERY quickly. On one occasion, at that speed my rear spoiler flew off.
Best of all, I must have spent 600 pounds at most for the whole conversion.

if you ever need any in depth tuning advise just PM me mate, i had a highly tuned 480 lump in my RWD/mid engined R5GTT

philg

29-06-2013, 17:23

Mine ;)

Nottswoody

20-07-2013, 20:05

Picking the lump up tomorrow off Marky mark :) looking forward to some injection in my 5 no more looking at the gauges every second :eek: looking forward to some b18ft fun..

Ashy

20-07-2013, 22:00

no more looking at the gauges every second

Yeah right! That'll never happen!

Nottswoody

20-07-2013, 22:37

Well I run 23psi on my daily 1.4 c1j so I'm always on the edge and paranoid. At least with a 1.7 and about 15-18psi I shouldn't be pushing it as hard plus no more carb issues. But in three yrs iv had the t2 the t25 the t28 cammed not cammed built and rebuilt engines I'm bored and need a change from the c1j so I will try the b18 and when I'm bored of that who knows :) I'm more about the build always liked my jigsaws as a kid this is just another.

Red October

21-07-2013, 13:42

Paul your a c1j judas

Nottswoody

21-07-2013, 16:19

Paul your a c1j judas

Iv served my time with the c1j iv driven it daily for 3yrs time for a change. :p

Slammed 66

21-07-2013, 16:53

The b18 is a great engine but don't expect it to be more reliable than a c1j. I could quite happily take an axe to mine at the moment while trying to figure out why it's not running right. 1bar is the most you want to run on a t2 turbo after having the scoff mod done on your ecu. Anything above this will start pinking but a bar should see 160-170 horses.

I've got a t28 on a tubular manifold, Saab red injectors, ep cam and after fitting adaptronic I'd like to see 230bhp at a safe boost pressure 18-19psi hopefully.

Ross

Nottswoody

21-07-2013, 17:38

philg

21-07-2013, 19:29

T2 on mine, 1 bar and the car made 170hp 240torque :)

Nottswoody

21-07-2013, 20:12

T2 on mine, 1 bar and the car made 170hp 240torque :)

So pulls well with the t2 then? I'm really looking forward to the change and the torque figures seem very well

philg

22-07-2013, 06:53

So pulls well with the t2 then? I'm really looking forward to the change and the torque figures seem very well

So much so, that the spare t25/28 I have, has sat in the garage for 2 years :)

Nottswoody

22-07-2013, 13:16

So much so, that the spare t25/28 I have, has sat in the garage for 2 years :)

Dam I just sold a mint one.. T2s are easier to get should I need one but I'm hoping by turning the boost down it will last me longer than at 23psi :)

GT Josh

22-07-2013, 13:20

Haz' car had a big t28 on it, wasn't massively laggy and went like **** off a shovel. T2 way to small imo

philg

22-07-2013, 13:58

Haz' car had a big t28 on it, wasn't massively laggy and went like **** off a shovel. T2 way to small imo

Bollicks, it all depends what your using it for. Yeah 1/4, or motorway blasts yeah ok. For the track, mine spools so fast and has loads of torque to pull you out of a corner. Lets face it your lucky if you can find a uk track with a straight that you can get much over 100 mph.

Haz

22-07-2013, 14:19

so you have tried a bigger turbo to compare then??

Nottswoody

23-07-2013, 15:24

Dudes I'm going to my local factors for plugs leads dizzy and arm and a thermostat..

What year should I say? Volvo 480 turbo G plate? Is that the one?

Nottswoody

23-07-2013, 18:56

Dudes I'm going to my local factors for plugs leads dizzy and arm and a thermostat..

What year should I say? Volvo 480 turbo G plate? Is that the one?

££70 for parts not too bad happy with that so far :)

Nottswoody

27-08-2013, 23:06

Right 5s off the road time to get the b18 in.. Don't expect quick progress as the mrs is having a hard pregnancy and I work long shifts.. I now have all the parts needed with thanks to Marky mark and eBay :)

Question..
Is the biggest restriction the ecu? And what's all this stand alone stuff?

What I have is my t28
B18 engine with n/a cam
Lightened flywheel
My box
Green box clutch
T5 injectors & standard to get it up running
New alloy rad (china special but looks good)
And a few other bits in the pipe line.

What else could I do..

As in the film

I want the world and everything init!!

Ideas? Pros cons of the b18..
:coffee:

Nottswoody

08-09-2013, 14:18

Suppose I'd better get this started then its been off te road two weeks but I haven't done anything. (Mrs is in and out of hospital) better crack on.. Got two hrs to myself as the mums got my lil one..

Thinking of painting my bay.. Would a run down then primer then rattle cans do the job? Obviously taking my time.. If china can doit surely I can I'm not after a show finish. What should I buy?

robw

08-09-2013, 15:06

You could use halfords cans or something but it will be soft and wont last very long, I did it this way before it's worth using better paint if poss, something that will be harder. Next time I will use 2k paint

Nottswoody

08-09-2013, 15:54

Well just the engine mounts todo then she's out.. Suprisingly quick when your leavin everything on.. Out of time now so will be another day.. Noticed the t28 front has movement I am having it rebuilt anyway but is that the seals?

I might just stone chip the bay or is that too gash :)

Chris Beer

08-09-2013, 20:24

I might just stone chip the bay or is that too gash :)

I Stonechipped my bay, got carried away after doing everything else but even though its paintable I want to flat it back now but can't see it being a nice job really.

Depends what your looking to achieve from the bay? If its show and having it looking great then stonechop probably isnt for you lol

Nottswoody

08-09-2013, 20:27

I Stonechipped my bay, got carried away after doing everything else but even though its paintable I want to flat it back now but can't see it being a nice job really.

Depends what your looking to achieve from the bay? If its show and having it looking great then stonechop probably isnt for you lol

Not for show bud.. Mines just all scratched up.. I'm not for bonnet popping but while the engines out I though I might aswell do something with it.. Too tight to have it sprayed..

Chris Beer

08-09-2013, 21:09

You could chip it which would be nice and easy then paint it after if you cant be arsed to prep the bay lol. But it would look like an inner wheel arch after

chris

08-09-2013, 21:21

I sprayed mine myself mate do you have a compressor ? I wouldn't use stone chip personally

Nottswoody

08-09-2013, 21:23

You could chip it which would be nice and easy then paint it after if you cant be arsed to prep the bay lol. But it would look like an inner wheel arch after

I can live with that :) its my daily so no point trying to be shiny.. Just want it to hide the scratches there's no rust just scratched up through the yrs.. Stonechip it is.. Thanks

Nottswoody

08-09-2013, 21:25

I sprayed mine myself mate do you have a compressor ? I wouldn't use stone chip personally

No bud nothing like that.. The 5s staying with me so I'm happy with the stone chip.. After all it won't make it go faster :)

Nottswoody

15-09-2013, 15:25

So dudes while taking the bumper off iv noticed the part were the bolt holds the bumper is completely shot.. Can I buy this panel? Or is it make one up? It's actually flapping in the wind lol so while I'm doing the engine I want this doing. Or had anyone got one?gg

chris

15-09-2013, 15:48

You can buy them mate quite easy to make also :agree:

Nottswoody

16-09-2013, 16:41

Week off starts tomorrow.. C1j out and b18 in :) cutting here chopping there and lots of new stuff.. Been waiting for this for months.. Told the mrs just man time this week before new baby arrives..

Benjibrady

16-09-2013, 17:30

Im starting mine at the begging of next month, so will be seeing how you get on with a watchful eye. Let us know how you get on.

V Man

16-09-2013, 17:43

I also have a b18 project that needs finishing but have to get my garage floor finished first. So hopefully couple weeks we can compare notes!:)

Nottswoody

16-09-2013, 18:26

No probs guys I will update as much as i can I see no issues getting it in so far it will be the pipes and wireing that I need help with but I'm lucky to have a very good friend :) my main worry is getting my t28 rebuilt by east midland turbos.. Well if they will that is.. Everything else I think I have now. Just waiting on the postie to bring more treats.. I will break its back this week but I don't think I will finish it as I need a little bit of welding on my inner wing and cross member is coming out for a very very large ic lol also going to re do all my breaks as well.. Re lower the front and valet all the interior aswell.. Just a bit to do. Can't wait

Nottswoody

18-09-2013, 07:37

So yesterday I started the b18 conversion.. C1j came out easily 2.5hrs this time :) engine swoops a dam sight easier than engine build lol..

So I sent my t28 off to midland turbos and they said its a cossie front and 200sx rear and won't know if they can rebuild it till they open it up.. Thankfully the movement was up and down but not in and out so hopefully it won't be to messed up in there.. But that's what you get running 23psi on your daily driver :) they said it could be from £180-£360 if knackerd.. I will find out today..
Next I swopped my green box clutch to the b18 as its only 6months old..

Then I found out that you need to take all the dowls out of the 5 gearbox and remove the dowls out of the b18 block as they don't match but the bolt holes do.. When fitting the gearbox take the tdc sensor off as it clashed with the water pipe on the block.. To get the tdc guard back on you will need to modify it a Little by grinding the holes away and keeping just a little of metal for the bolts to grip and hold.. I took off about 5mm and now fits nice.. Also I need to modify the flywheel guard as that dosnt fit nice but you will see what needs doing.
Everything else fits a treat so far..
Today will be chopping out the cross member for a massive ic thanks to Marky mark.. And then remove all the c1j parts out the bay. Aei and fpr etc etc rub the paint work down and a fellow member thundercat will be helping me today :) we need to have the ic fitted by the end of the day to progress with things. So far no real headaches.. Will save pictures for last. Or load them up on rtoc fb page..

Tell you what though my backs getting to old for this lifting engine **** lol I only have scaffold A frame so its bloody annoying having to keep putting wheels back on and lowering and pushing the car out the way on your own..

Nottswoody

18-09-2013, 18:07

So today we cut out the cross member took out all the none needed items out te bay.. Got my turbo rebuilt from midland turbo for £318 which stung but needed doing. Tomorrow some welding needed for brackets to hold the huge ic in place. Then paint the engine bay.. If I get that done tomorrow me and thundercat will be happy.

All going well so far..

James5

18-09-2013, 18:44

Sounds like good progress any pics :-)

Benjibrady

18-09-2013, 19:55

sounds like your getting on well mate, are using ta gtx engine mountt or drilling out the standard one?

Nottswoody

18-09-2013, 20:17

Sounds like good progress any pics :-)

I only have the iPhone to upload and my photo bucket is locked.. I will do them towards the end of the week.. Im too poor for a pc/laptop and the mrs says I will just watch porn anyway..

Nottswoody

18-09-2013, 20:19

sounds like your getting on well mate, are using ta gtx engine mountt or drilling out the standard one?

From what I can see this block came off of a 5 so on the right hand bolt hole there's about 3 washes to space it.. I'm guessing its moved the angle so a standard mount will fit I'm hoping to have it in by the end of the week so will let you know if that works..

Nottswoody

19-09-2013, 08:57

Guys what you think to rubbing the bay down with 800 grit then prima then red hammarite? Got to be worth a go? Works well on my rads in the house.. Not red obviously :) it's not like your going to see a lot of it anyway..

rs250nut

19-09-2013, 08:59

800 will be far to fine for primer, is it rattle can primer or proper stuff?

Nottswoody

19-09-2013, 09:04

800 will be far to fine for primer, is it rattle can primer or proper stuff?

Anything that comes out of wickes this morning :) so just really rough paper then prima then smooth then paint? Never done this really

rs250nut

19-09-2013, 09:29

If its rattle can primer I would use 240-320, let it go off over night unless you can bake it, then flat that for top coat with 800 wet.

Trevhib

19-09-2013, 11:45

Good progress and advice :)

Markey Mark (BD)

19-09-2013, 20:04

From what I can see this block came off of a 5 so on the right hand bolt hole there's about 3 washes to space it.. I'm guessing its moved the angle so a standard mount will fit I'm hoping to have it in by the end of the week so will let you know if that works..

I spaced the engine mount out abit so it was little bit easier to to put the bottom rad water hose on, with the gt mount in place that gets abit tight ;)

Nottswoody

19-09-2013, 21:03

I spaced the engine mount out abit so it was little bit easier to to put the bottom rad water hose on, with the gt mount in place that gets abit tight ;)

That makes sense as that was the last thing I looked at today and said the same it's going to be tight there..

Nottswoody

19-09-2013, 21:13

Well the ic and rad are now fitted thanks to thundercat a true gent doing it for me cut the panel out welded new brackets on to hold the huge ic on.. You can now stand onit and it wouldn't budge.. It's back in my hands now tomorrow I will paint the bay hopefully if all is well as the mrs is back in hospital. Picking up my t28 tomorrow from East Midlands turbos so will see what type of work they have done but I'm confidant it will be mint as there pretty big compony now and 5 mins up the road.. Ended up costing a pretty penny but i hope it will be worth it.. Pictures are on rtoc fb group as I can't put them on here yet. Thundercat drilled my wings to fit my ic pipes through.. Need to get the engine in by Monday as I'm back to work Tuesday.. But we will see as I will be out with my daughter this weekend. Family First :)

Things coming on nicely just need to work all the angles and lengths of the pipe work and order them from a site called 800bhp very good service and fast delivery..

Again thanks to thundercat I wouldn't of been able to do this without his help..

Nottswoody

20-09-2013, 08:30

Nottswoody

20-09-2013, 10:42

http://www.midlandturbo.com/

This who iv used as you can see there well established.. I'm guessing the two year gaurentee won't apply to me lol but I will ask see what they say..
Free next day delivery. Took two days for my turbo. I will pick it up today an see how good it is..

So I just got back from these guys and my t28 is now mint.. £318 full rebuild with 360 bearing etc etc blah blah..

Anyway so I asked will the 2yr warranty stick and he said yes they will pick it up from your house no matter were you are but and there's always a but if they can't fix it ie blown to bits there's a charge..

I asked what type of turbos will you do and they said if its been built they can recon any turbo out there.

I noticed they marked the actuator and he said if that's broken warranty void so I will just bleed it.

Top service great place well recomended..

Obviously I have to fit it first. Included was all new studs gaskets etc

Well chuffed..

:D

R5MJH

20-09-2013, 12:57

So I just got back from these guys and my t28 is now mint.. £318 full rebuild with 360 bearing etc etc blah blah..

Anyway so I asked will the 2yr warranty stick and he said yes they will pick it up from your house no matter were you are but and there's always a but if they can't fix it ie blown to bits there's a charge..

I asked what type of turbos will you do and they said if its been built they can recon any turbo out there.

I noticed they marked the actuator and he said if that's broken warranty void so I will just bleed it.

Top service great place well recomended..

Obviously I have to fit it first. Included was all new studs gaskets etc

Well chuffed..

:D

i had a skoda diesel turbo for my cab from here many moons ago and it lasted longer than the oe mate:laugh:

Nottswoody

21-09-2013, 08:03

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.php?albumid=1539&pictureid=9494

Nottswoody

21-09-2013, 08:13

I give up trying to put bloody pics up. I can load them to my profile but not on my thread.. It let me do one link and now it won't doit.. For those intersted its the first 6 I think.. Or can someone put them up there?

No work being done till Monday now back to a couple of hrs a day..

Jonny5

21-09-2013, 11:57

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zpseaa502bc.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zpseaa502bc.jpg.html)

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zps9d65e572.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zps9d65e572.jpg.html)

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zps5bd81bb4.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zps5bd81bb4.jpg.html)

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zps44287a03.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zps44287a03.jpg.html)

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zps24605f51.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zps24605f51.jpg.html)

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zpsed362609.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zpsed362609.jpg.html)

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zps8fa9821d.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zps8fa9821d.jpg.html)

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zps0f6b12cc.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zps0f6b12cc.jpg.html)

Nad-5GTT

21-09-2013, 12:53

Shame you didn't get a big intercooler:D is there no structual loss when cutting the cross member off? Looking good though. Just a quick one what happened to the c1j engine then? When's the f7p conversion happening:cooter:

Nottswoody

21-09-2013, 13:47

We will be bracing the crossmember with a beam later but all the weight is on the subframe really anyways.. The c1j is in my garage with all the parts to put it back should I want to.. And f7p will be next year probably. I get bored very easily as you know.

Just for clarity I only removed the c1j because of oil leaks and I didn't see the point fixing those putting it back in to be the same so I thought I'd try some efi first on the b18.. F7p is just way out my price range at the min.. (2nd child on the way) but maybe next year sell te c1j and parts and the b18 and parts that might put me on the way to f7p or any other conversion that maybe out there by then.. Personally I think I would of had my fill by then. Two kids and a 5 don't really mix..

Nottswoody

22-09-2013, 19:20

Well not a very successful day today painted my bay black today so couldn't do anything in there. Found that I need a new oil feed for my turbo as for the Volvo lump the end is a lot further away than the c1j so a trip to pertec in the morning.. Then hopefully get this lump I tomorrow once iv bolted the turbo down and got the oil feed on as it looks a pig to do when in the car. And I'm on the phone to Cgb that have took the piss with a delivery.

Apart from that the mrs is back out of hospital for now and baby is ok so that's all that really matters.

Benjibrady

22-09-2013, 19:52

Looking good mate nearly there

Nottswoody

23-09-2013, 10:52

Someone call the POLICE I just got robbed by pertec lol £57 for a braided oil feed.. But atleast I can crack on and get the turbo fitted then hopefully her the engine in today.. Back to work tomorrow

Nottswoody

23-09-2013, 17:30

Well engines in. I want to thank thundercat and Marky mark for all there advice and help I nearly made a big mistake not turning the turbo housing round that would of been a bitch I was just putting the engine in when they noticed on a fb photo I had done earlier. The back mount was a bit of a bitch and out of line but with a couple of hammers from underneath it went in.. That's it now back to work tomorrow I will only get a couple of hrs at a time now so god knows how long this will take now.. Since I will have to bike to work everyday that will be my motivation.. All good fun so far only a couple of snags but nothing I can't handle..

Jonny5

23-09-2013, 20:14

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zps15bf63a7.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zps15bf63a7.jpg.html)

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zps064438db.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zps064438db.jpg.html)

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zps99348eea.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zps99348eea.jpg.html)

V Man

23-09-2013, 22:15

Beautiful! Now wire it up and off ya go;)

Nottswoody

26-09-2013, 20:02

:rant:
******* 5 lol 12hr shifts are not helping too tired to do anything the small Jobs seem Tito be taking for ever.. I didn't read or listen to peeps that said I ha to move the dowl in the gearbox for the starter motor otherwise it will grind so that was a ******* to get off but got there in the end but I still don't see how it will help a it just seems the same to me.. Then I had a **** time trying to fit my exchaust as it was solid and needed twisting to get it to fit.. Smashed my face with a bloody spanner lol while under there.. Cross threaded my gearbox thread for the driveshaft so had to get that sorted.. But I'm getting there slowly pity works so busy at the min but I really need the OT at the min.. Apart from that were golden :):)

Nottswoody

30-09-2013, 16:01

Quick question to all you b18ers dose the main fuel line go to the fuel pressure reg and the other to the opposite on the fuel rail? Iv only got an hr to play today.. I'm guessing that's the way they go? Cheers

Nottswoody

07-10-2013, 17:43

Quick update. Got the starter going and lights on the dash through the 5s wiring loom thanks to thundercat aka mr smith :) new driveshafts fitted gearbox oil is in. The Volvo loom is in place and just needs connecting to everything. Petrol pipe connected and brake servo to.. Started work on all the water pipes which was easy Enough with c1j hoses and used a Saab main water pipe from the thermostat to rad fit perfect.. Boost hoses are fitted from ic upto turbo but waiting on parts from throttle body to ic I can't get a tight enough 180 pipe so far.. Getting there though.. All good fun so far :)

Nottswoody

07-10-2013, 17:54

T2 on mine, 1 bar and the car made 170hp 240torque :)

Just re noticed this 240 torque that sounds fun :agree:

Nottswoody

07-10-2013, 17:57

I also have a b18 project that needs finishing but have to get my garage floor finished first. So hopefully couple weeks we can compare notes!:)

Have you started yours yet bud?

Nottswoody

07-10-2013, 17:58

Im starting mine at the begging of next month, so will be seeing how you get on with a watchful eye. Let us know how you get on.

Have you started yours yet bud?

V Man

07-10-2013, 19:15

Have you started yours yet bud?

Na. But I took the day off today and began the run of a 10mm electric Cable to the garage so when the blooming floor is in the welder and grinder will be ready at hand. Just waiting for the farmer next door to shift the earth I dug out before concrete goes in.

Then its tinker time and time to squeeze as many horses as possible out the bad lad.:agree:

Jonny5

19-10-2013, 18:33

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zps4963efe9.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zps4963efe9.jpg.html)

Nottswoody

19-10-2013, 18:50

Nearly there all piped up just no time still.. So looking forward to getting this back on. The ground.. Good thing though I'm back on my bike lol so loosing some bellie :)

Things todo..

Tap into c1j loom place the ecu in the bulk head strut brace back on..
Shocks back on then wheels.

Then jack up the back change the fuel pump and put new calipers on the back and were good to go.. Happy happy happy.

And all before the mrs drops the baby lol.

Jonny5

20-10-2013, 17:37

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zps2dd0e475.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zps2dd0e475.jpg.html)

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zpsd42333a6.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zpsd42333a6.jpg.html)

Nottswoody

20-10-2013, 19:49

Sorry OE guys had to chop te **** out of the bumper.. The bonnet was fun fitting also.. Onwards and upwards.. On a good not though all mods declared.. £264 new insurance quote.. Happy happy happy..

Nottswoody

24-10-2013, 17:00

How's this for a pisstake.. My insurance is due on the 1st from Adrian flux quoted £624 so shopped around and flux direct (same compony) says £216 all mods blah blah comprehensive and able to drive others. Then another compony I used to be with called brentacre phones and I said waisting your time bud your not going to beet them.. £198 same deal.. Insurance company's are a joke.. £3000 classic car and 3000miles just shows it pays to shop..

Nottswoody

25-10-2013, 18:33

So she's back on the floor and on all four wheels :) but something I didn't take into consideration was clearance of my boost pipes through the wing to the wheels :ashamed: so iv changed the piping arrangement and we have about an inch clearance :confused: I hope that's enough travel lol or I'm buggerd lol I can't move it any more without re welding the wings and cutting again apart from that she's all good and thundercat (Mr smith) will be finishing the wireing off real soon..

Left todo is
Oil filter
New rear calipers
Fuel pump
Wireing
Water and oil
And start her up :)

An hr here n there is all I get so not doing bad but babies imminent :dearme: running out of time..

Nottswoody

28-10-2013, 20:54

Pads done
Handbrake cable done
Underseal done..

Fuel pump tomorrow
Oil filter then fill her up with oil
Fill her with water and coolant
90% there :)
It's now a race till Monday to get this finished :D

Nottswoody

03-11-2013, 14:58

I'd say I'm 96% there just a few ends to tie up but out of time :( on the other hand baby is out tomorrow :) thanks to thundercat for giving me his expert help on this build and info and parts from Marky mark.. Soon as I get some spare time I will finish it off.. Very tight spots in the bay especially that bottom hose was a ******* lol all because I wanted a huge ic lol.. I have to take the alternator off then the oil filter just to get at it.. Then you can just about get one click on the wrench. Apart from that happy so far..

Benjibrady

03-11-2013, 15:30

Where abouts did you feed the wiring around the engine bud as mine is looking a bloody mess at the moment :disagree:

Nottswoody

03-11-2013, 20:23

Where abouts did you feed the wiring around the engine bud as mine is looking a bloody mess at the moment :disagree:

Mine is chopped to the beAr bone.. I've chopped it into the r5 loon and round the r5 drivers wing then across the strutt nrace then choped into the aei hole into the batterie hole all ecus are in there nice n tidy

Benjibrady

03-11-2013, 20:46

If you get a second could you stick a picture up? Mine is looking very scruffy at the moment. Was going to stick the ecus inside the car as I have my power steering pump where the battery used to go. Tbf I haven't taken the loom about so it's a very thick bunch of wires atm.

Jonny5

03-11-2013, 21:17

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u410/JonnyR5-2008/image_zpsf26ebb9a.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/JonnyR5-2008/media/image_zpsf26ebb9a.jpg.html)

Nottswoody

11-12-2013, 15:21

Really thinking about just going for it and forking out for standalone.. Anyone got all the results on a b18 with t28? I can see the bonus getting smashed :) go!!!

Nottswoody

02-01-2014, 19:00

These cars go moldy quick :( I went in the garage for the first time in 5weeks and the seats and steering wheel have gone white.. Think she's trying to tell me something..

V Man

04-01-2014, 17:15

Nottswoody

05-01-2014, 09:03

How's it driving? Have you managed a good run out yet.....you've got the injectors , turbo, cam and intercooler so shouldn't you just need an unrestricted ecu and a maf bypass hole and get a 200+ bhp??

Hi bud.. I haven't had it running yet as we had our 2nd child 8 weeks ago so I have other priorities at the mo.. But I will get back in the garage soon I really am starting to miss the old gal.. But yes your right I have all the gear to hopefully be hitting 200+ I'm saving for standalone at the min and then let scoff do his magic with her but that's a while a way at the mo.. I'm in a predicament at the min :) engagement ring for the woman I love or standalone sooner lol.. I really need and want both :crap: just waiting to see what my bonus is like this month..

V Man

05-01-2014, 18:34

Hi bud.. I haven't had it running yet as we had our 2nd child 8 weeks ago so I have other priorities at the mo.. But I will get back in the garage soon I really am starting to miss the old gal.. But yes your right I have all the gear to hopefully be hitting 200+ I'm saving for standalone at the min and then let scoff do his magic with her but that's a while a way at the mo.. I'm in a predicament at the min :) engagement ring for the woman I love or standalone sooner lol.. I really need and want both :crap: just waiting to see what my bonus is like this month..

I would hang fire on the stand alone and have a crack at bypass and standard ecu. Tim who recently broke his b18 was nigh on 230 bhp on standard ecu.....

Nottswoody

05-01-2014, 18:56

I would hang fire on the stand alone and have a crack at bypass and standard ecu. Tim who recently broke his b18 was nigh on 230 bhp on standard ecu.....

What and why did it break bud?

V Man

05-01-2014, 19:29

I think he said it was head gasket maybe? Not sure.look on YouTube for b18 Regy5gt and you'll see it on rollers at scoffs. Same setup ad you making 230bhp on standard ecu.

Nottswoody

07-01-2014, 20:38

Nipped in the garage for a spare hr I had.. Few qs for you..

Should the main fuel feed go to the regulator or to the beginning of the rail? At the min I have it to the fuel reg??

Also were should the earth from the dizzy go to? I haven't got one (read in a post it needs one?)

Also I can't hear the pump go when cranking but it dose when I bridge it to live.

Cheers guys I'm no sparky

Benjibrady

08-01-2014, 03:36

Should the main fuel feed go to the regulator or to the beginning of the rail? At the min I have it to the fuel reg?? Yeah to the fuel regulator

Also were should the earth from the dizzy go to? I haven't got one (read in a post it needs one?) somewhere on the chassis, should be a thin brown wire coming off the part of the loom that plugs into the coil
Also I can't hear the pump go when cranking but it dose when I bridge it to live.
Double check that you've soldered to the correct yellow ignition? Seems to be a common problem. Also, I know it sounds stupid, but check all the fuse and relays around the pick connector block as that's what it was one mine didn't turn over ;)

Nottswoody

09-01-2014, 21:02

Quickly swopped the fuel lines tonight batteries in charge for the morning. Let's see if that sorts it out :ashamed: hopefully get an hr free on it tomorrow..

Thundercat

10-01-2014, 00:03

Fingers crossed buddy, well overdue being fired up!

Haz

10-01-2014, 01:12

fuel feed should go to end of rail, reg is the return.
dizzy earth is just a small engine earth, so long as you have a decent engine earth its fine. the borwn earth by the coil is the earth for the coil.
i guess if the fuel pump isnt priming then it could be the switched ign live for the ecu's could be on the wrong ign live, wants to be on one thats on 2nd click. also are the ecu's matched with loom, later versions have an extra live.
if the fuel pump will run when bridged then thats ok and the fault is somewhere else.

Nottswoody

10-01-2014, 15:49

She's alive!!!!! :yeah:

Nad-5GTT

10-01-2014, 17:55

Well done matey, I've not followed this build as much as the c1j one so forgive me for asking is this nearly finished and ready for the road.

Nottswoody

10-01-2014, 18:17

Well done matey, I've not followed this build as much as the c1j one so forgive me for asking is this nearly finished and ready for the road.

Bar putting the car on the floor and re flushing it out.. Cleaning it taxing it she's good to go :)
What happens then is anyone's guess. But she ran fine for a good hour revved the nutts off it an it flutterd the turbo so hopefully were all good. Fuels abut all over the place but I will know more when I get it out there.. But again back to family life so she can stay In the garage for another couple of weeks..

Ha a lot of help from great members and I thank you all..

V Man

10-01-2014, 19:14

Go woody! Well done:)
Now...get boostin and report back

Nottswoody

11-01-2014, 06:50

Go woody! Well done:)
Now...get boostin and report back

It's not taxed bud or I would of been out already.. Few other things I want doing now only little things but no rush... Main thing it's running and thank you to all that helped. Won't be driven till pay day at least..

Trevhib

11-01-2014, 10:40

Great work. This was a big undertaking. Let us know how it goes on the road. :)

As you say above, the club's done you proud here :agree:

Nottswoody

17-01-2014, 17:31

So went for the first run with the b18 and it was all :agree: much better pick up think I'm running about ten psi on a t28 with standard ecu.. Picks up really well but too much traffic so iv filled up and waiting till later to go and see what's really going on..

V Man

17-01-2014, 22:31

Cool. So pretty lively with a t28 then. What sort of rpm is the turbs spoiling?
Will be interested to hear how it goes on a funt out.:agree:

Nottswoody

17-01-2014, 23:51

Cool. So pretty lively with a t28 then. What sort of rpm is the turbs spoiling?
Will be interested to hear how it goes on a funt out.:agree:

Monster ;) 1st spin 2nd spin 3rd spin then grips and pulls and pulls some more. Instant tourque steer very happy boy today.. Few things to do still as always.. Tomorrow cleaning all day and need to sort the knocking back box out.. Apart from that happy happy happy :) so far I'm glad I chose to doit..

B18ftMOJO5

18-01-2014, 08:27

well done mate, id love to know how different the T28 runs with the b18ft engine, I take my missus to see her friend in derby occasionally. will try and hook up with you next time im down. :agree:

V Man

18-01-2014, 09:06

Monster ;) 1st spin 2nd spin 3rd spin then grips and pulls and pulls some more. Instant tourque steer very happy boy today.. Few things to do still as always.. Tomorrow cleaning all day and need to sort the knocking back box out.. Apart from that happy happy happy :) so far I'm glad I chose to doit..

Like the sound of that. I will have the same setup as you so looking forward to it.:smokin:

Nottswoody

18-01-2014, 09:41

Like the sound of that. I will have the same setup as you so looking forward to it.:smokin:

I spent a couple of hrs out on the roads and I'm more than happy there when you want it and a nice drive if you don't. Afrs are good and so much more stable than with the carb. Early days and all that but I hope it will be fun for a while. It's definatley heavier front end when cornering and I can't imagine my tyres are going to last long on track. Pulling out of the Islands was fun.. And typically I didn't see one sports motor to play with lol.. As above I'm very happy with b18 so far..

Nottswoody

20-01-2014, 22:14

Right then guys... Hit my first hurdle went out friday and it ran like a dream.. Now wont start at all.. Checked everything all pipes all hoses everything is new getting fuel got compression and spark but still wont start.. Arfter many hrs mucking around i can only think the spark isnt strong enough to fire her up.. Now should the spark be blue? As mine is a light orange if that makes sense? Whats the correct term for the coil? Im looking on ebay but nothings coming up.. The unit were the king lead comes off im thinking that might be on its way out.. Anyone got a part number? Cheers its bugging the crap outa me as it ran so well friday..

Haz

20-01-2014, 23:55

Is the battery fully charged? is the fuel pump priming whilst cranking?

Nottswoody

21-01-2014, 06:35

Is the battery fully charged? is the fuel pump priming whilst cranking?

Hi haz
Batterie is new and fully charged fuel pump is new and I can't hear the fuel pump when cranking as the chambers are full spark plugs are wet about four times iv checked. New relays. Even when I bridge it to get the pump working it still won't fire up and that's with the pump on all the time. Truly am puzzled with this one.. Will have another go later..

Haz

21-01-2014, 09:46

Nottswoody

21-01-2014, 15:45

Fuel pump is wired in with injectors, so if that's not priming, they aren't working.
Chambers are full ?? Chances are the plugs have got wet while your bridging it.
Is the tacho fluttering during cranking?

Well I just tried again and your right it's no turning the pump on from the key if I touch a wire to the + and to the relay it starts the pump.. I just don't get how it worked fine for a couple of days but not now.. I didn't touch a thing.. Just put two more new relays in and still nothing.. Is it going to be me putting a switch to the pump? Thanks haz..

Haz

21-01-2014, 17:15

Lots of items are linked in the loom, you've tested the pump is fine so the ecu isn't telling it to turn on.
Does the tacho flutter?

Nottswoody

21-01-2014, 18:09

Lots of items are linked in the loom, you've tested the pump is fine so the ecu isn't telling it to turn on.
Does the tacho flutter?

What's the tacho bud? What I did was take a plug out and turn it over and lots of fuel came out the plug hole and when it clears it self it tried to run :confused: put the plug back in it then seems to flood it's self again.. Even though I haven't heard the pump go.

Tried bridging the pump and get it running but nothing.. It's hard to explain over here something's a miss and it's doing my head In :coffee:

Fact is I haven't a clue :cartman:

Trevhib

21-01-2014, 18:15

Tacho = rev counter (usually) :agree:

Nottswoody

21-01-2014, 18:27

Tacho = rev counter (usually) :agree:

Ooooh right in that case it worked fine Friday and now it dosnt.. :coffee:

Trevhib

21-01-2014, 18:36

I think Haz was saying, does the rev counter needle flutter (i.e. make tiny movements), while you're turning it over. :agree:

Nottswoody

21-01-2014, 18:41

I think Haz was saying, does the rev counter needle flutter (i.e. make tiny movements), while you're turning it over. :agree:

Not now guys.. So are we thinking crank sensor?

R5MJH

21-01-2014, 18:53

Not now guys.. So are we thinking crank sensor?

sounds like it:agree:

Nottswoody

21-01-2014, 19:03

sounds like it:agree:

No way of testing these? I'm using the one off my old 5

Nottswoody

21-01-2014, 20:26

No way of testing these? I'm using the one off my old 5

Well took it off looks ok cleaned it stuck it back on and now no spark at all :devil: will order one tomorrow.. I was getting used to bit pissing about with cars.. See what happens with a new one..

Just one thing is the volvo flywheel in the same place as in is it thicker? The reason I say this is I left the guard off this time dose it need to be spaced in any way? Or straight fit? Thanks for the help guys

Haz

22-01-2014, 01:18

Possibly the crank sensor, but if your getting a spark before then it should be ok, it should read around 250 ohms with a multimeter. The guard should go on after sensor then bolts in, so doesn't need spacing. Is it on correctly, wrong spacing could cause it not to work. Worth checking connectors esp where Volvo meets Renault too.
Which wire have you used for the tacho? Some use a direct from the coil neg, others the green wire in the main Volvo loom connector which is linked to injectors. I guess the latter with spark but no fuel.
Where is the Volvo switched live attached, thin grey or grey/white in same connector, should be to second click of ignition. Again should be ok if there's a spark.
Engine earth ok?
The only concern is that the fuel pump isn't priming but sounds like its flooding the engine. Unless its because your manually bridging the pump, that's normally due to blowing the outputs of the ecu, which leaves the injectors fully open.

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 08:58

Jonny5

22-01-2014, 09:28

Should have kept the carb :rolleyes: :)

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 10:28

Should have kept the carb :rolleyes: :)

**** the carb.. I was well happy with it Friday... Just a bit of teething issues as with any god dam motors :)

Orderd a new sensor for £14 might aswell eliminate that out. Orderd some scuttle covers to hide the ecus..

See how we get on..

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 16:09

I really an shite at electrics but I got a meter I watched my you tube vid so now I'm a expert (not)

Right so iv tested

Batterie = 12.54
Ecu large 1 pin gets 12.53
Small ecu gets 12.39
Alternator gets at + 12.53
Relay = gets 12.50
Injector plug 0.62

All on 2nd click of the key..

Haven't tried turning it as I'm on my own..

What else guys?

Haz

22-01-2014, 16:21

That's about right as they are all kinda linked.
Timing ecu, black one, pin 5 and 6 should be live too. Check relay ecu's that you already have and check they are still live during cranking, albeit they will drop to around 10v

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 16:24

That's about right as they are all kinda linked.
Timing ecu, black one, pin 5 and 6 should be live t

Yer sorry 5-6 was the same..

What's my next step then haz? Should there be power at the loom side of the crank sensor? As there isn't or dose that happen at turn of the key?

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 16:31

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 16:34

Sorry the crank sensor from loom reads 2.92 on the 2nd key is that right? Haven't tried turning it

Haz

22-01-2014, 16:37

Sound, so long as they all stay live during cranking they're good. Tdc sensor should only be during cranking, when the ecu see's the engine turning it should turn the fuel pump on.
Assume it's just that sensor then.
Did you check it's resistance, 200 ohm setting on meter.

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 16:38

Sorry the crank sensor from loom reads 2.92 on the 2nd key is that right? Haven't tried turning it

2.92 even when cranking it.. I'm guessing that a wrong?

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 16:40

Haz

22-01-2014, 16:41

Ah, the decimal point just moves along for each meter setting, so would read 292, so not like its dead. Faulty wiring? Is the connector on loom and sensor still good, plug it into the loom and check resistance from the Volvo side of the loom, should read the same.

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 16:47

Slammed 66

22-01-2014, 16:49

This is starting to sound similar to the issues I had with my b18

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 16:50

This is starting to sound similar to the issues I had with my b18

Please tell me you've fixed it :sos:

Haz

22-01-2014, 16:53

Well, there's you fault. You got another sensor to try?

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 16:57

Well, there's you fault. You got another sensor to try?

Orderd one this morning haz will be here tomorrow..

Let's hope it is that nice easy fix :) if not back to the drawing board...

Thanks for everything it's much appreciated

Haz

22-01-2014, 16:59

Which Volvo loom do you have, 2 or 3 pin tdc connector? And are you bench testing the sensor or is it in position?

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 17:01

Which Volvo loom do you have, 2 or 3 pin tdc connector? And are you bench testing the sensor or is it in position?

There wasn't a connector on there it's spades and it's fitted to the car

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 17:03

There wasn't a connector on there it's spades and it's fitted to the car

And I have the orange ecu if that helps?

Slammed 66

22-01-2014, 17:14

Please tell me you've fixed it :sos:

Haz did :niceone:

Haz

22-01-2014, 17:20

Spades can be problematic, better to just twist the wires for testing, solder in for permanent.
Don't think it matters which way round it's wired as the ecu should figure that out but should be red to yellow, black to white iirc.
Yours was a dodgy relay that was still clicking but not sending the power through wasnt it Ross? That was a head scratcher!

Nottswoody

22-01-2014, 17:21

Well there are three wires close but only using two if that makes sense? As I say it worked awesome Friday I was chuffed with it and I'm sure the ecu is already unlocked as it flu with plenty of boost (gauge wasn't working) but if there's more to get out the car I'm scared as it was pretty mental as is.. But then again iv been driving a fiat for three months :)

Slammed 66

22-01-2014, 17:28

Nottswoody

23-01-2014, 18:17

That was it mate. Bloody thing still isn't running happy though so when the new engine is fitted and got some miles on it, I'm going for adaptronic.

Alright guys it's not the crank sensor tried it this time and it's blown the fuel pump fuse?

Nottswoody

23-01-2014, 18:25

Alright guys it's not the crank sensor tried it this time and it's blown the fuel pump fuse?

Also at the fuel pump it's self positive reads 0.2 with the ignition at 2nd turn.. I can still hear both relays click at the key..

B18ftMOJO5

23-01-2014, 19:51

Did you try a new ignition coil.? Mine died on me intermittently ladt month it was a dodgy coil. Changed now all good.

Nottswoody

23-01-2014, 21:02

Did you try a new ignition coil.? Mine died on me intermittently ladt month it was a dodgy coil. Changed now all good.

All readings are ok from the coil bud..

I think its something on the loom maybe even the ecu now.. Iv bridged it so the pump runs and this time the plugs were not wet..
Bridged it from the fuse box to sidetrack the fuel relay in the loom and that still didnt work..

Next step i think take all the loom out and strip it back.
Can i test the ecu in anyway? :brickwall:

Out of interest what coil did you get? I cant seem ti find a replacement the shop keeps showing me a differnt coil to the one i have.. Do you have a part number?

Well and truly baffeled

Haz

23-01-2014, 21:28

Be careful just bridging and bypassing unless your sure, you can damage the ecu.
It shouldn't blow the fuel pump unless the pump is faulty and sticking causing too much current draw. I think that is something your doing?
Fuel pump shouldn't go live until the timing ecu sees the engine spinning, then the relay is earthed via the ecu. So on the 2nd ign click only one relay should click.
Stripping the loom back is a pita, I wouldn't, testing continuity between connectors to ecu connector is easier.
So have you changed the tdc sensor?

B18ftMOJO5

23-01-2014, 21:34

Got it off ebay for £15 for a five gt. Try and find you the link runs lovely now.:)

Haz

23-01-2014, 21:50

Coil pack won't be off a gtt mojo, they have an aei unit.

B18ftMOJO5

23-01-2014, 21:55

Your right haz my bad i think it was for the volvo 1.7 engine

Haz

23-01-2014, 21:59

Coils don't tend to fail unless they have been bumped and got hairline cracks in the tip.
You can replace just the coil,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-NGK-Ignition-Coil-Pack-VOLVO-900-Series-940-2-3-L-P-Turbo-Saloon-1995-97-/330959114808?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d0eb35238

This type works to but I wouldn't pay that! Just so you know what to look for.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-S70-P80-2-4-Turbo-Saloon-1-Terminal-Fuel-Parts-Coil-Pack-Genuine-OEM-/360837614471?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVolvo&hash=item5403990b87

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Meat-Doria-Ignition-Coil-Volvo-S70-2-4-Turbo-1996-2000-/191008677638?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVolvo&hash=item2c79011f06

So long as the connector plugs in it will probably work, could be Renault, Volvo Saab etc.

Nottswoody

24-01-2014, 02:07

Nottswoody

24-01-2014, 15:06

So then checking continuity iv watched yet another you tube "how to" what areas should I be checking all the plugs again? Icu/injectors/etc etc

Haz

24-01-2014, 18:47

If you have a Hayes you could test from the ecu connector pins to component pins but I can't see the loom being at fault.
the timing ecu goes live on ign second click, it stays live during cranking and should see the engine turning then turn on the fuel pump relay and that the pump, trigger the fuel ecu to turn on injectors, supply power to turn on the coil which should give the spark.
So if your getting a spark then timing ecu should see the engine moving so ecu, coil and tdc should be ok. If the plugs stay dry, the injectors arent opening or there may just be no fuel there. if earthing the relay to the fuel pump and getting the fuel around the system and after some cranking they are still dry, and getting a spark then it's possibly wiring between the ecu's, ecu and fuel pump relay, ecu to injectors or the main loom earth (coil pack and engine lifting eye ones). If you test continuity between all that and it's good then poss an ecu fault.
I do still feel the fault is not loom based though.

Nottswoody

24-01-2014, 19:28

Could spark plug gap be a prob? They are new but I was just thinking iv been testing only one plug spark when cranking over

Haz

24-01-2014, 21:15

Not really unless too far open/closed, more so on boost/high revs.

Benjibrady

24-01-2014, 22:04

Nottswoody

24-01-2014, 22:58

Was just saying to haz mate, mine appears to have developed a very similar (if not the same problem) as yours, if I work anything out I'll let you know.

Just out of curiosity what was your afr's like?

Afrs were stable really bud.. Iv just tested a few things for continuity and got some very strange readings im just not sure if im doing it right.. Will look into it a bit better tomorow/sunday

I think it was 13s/14s on tick over and more 12s/13s running but leaned out on full boost
It dose sound the same as yours bud.. Bloody things but if i can get it to run aswell as the night i did have out init i will be happy

Benjibrady

24-01-2014, 23:09

Afrs were stable really bud.. Iv just tested a few things for continuity and got some very strange readings im just not sure if im doing it right.. Will look into it a bit better tomorow/sunday

I think it was 13s/14s on tick over and more 12s/13s running but leaned out on full boost
It dose sound the same as yours bud.. Bloody things but if i can get it to run aswell as the night i did have out init i will be happy

Your fueling sounds very similar to mine once I'd leaned off tick over.

I reckon we've missed something somewhere if I do find anything I'll let you know

Nottswoody

24-01-2014, 23:19

Your fueling sounds very similar to mine once I'd leaned off tick over.

I reckon we've missed something somewhere if I do find anything I'll let you know

:agree:

Nottswoody

25-01-2014, 13:57

:agree:

Lets have a few hrs looking at these wires.. Really wamt this runnig now :mad: want my mrs to have her car back and get the 5 as my daily again.. I hope it's something small

Benjibrady

25-01-2014, 14:17

I've had a read back through and what is worthy of note is that I also blew the fuse for the fuel pump a couple of weeks ago, replaced it and didn't think anything of it. Wonder if there is the potential for a voltage spike?

Nb: a couple weeks back my loom as stripped & everything cut out of it & couldn't see an problems so I don't think it's something to do with the loom.

I'm starting to think that possibly shorting the terminals on the pink connector has fried the ecu. I'm tempted to get another but it's not going to be for a while as unfortunately my cash flow is running thin.

casper

25-01-2014, 14:31

Hi Paul.Had a reed through your thread but just incase i have miss read anything.Are you saying your getting fuel,good spark and compression but still wont start?

Nottswoody

25-01-2014, 15:06

Hi Paul.Had a reed through your thread but just incase i have miss read anything.Are you saying your getting fuel,good spark and compression but still wont start?

Pump works when bridged but still wouldn't start

I'm not getting a power signal to the injectors now at the plug all six females have no power signal..

Nottswoody

25-01-2014, 15:22

Pump works when bridged but still wouldn't start

I'm not getting a power signal to the injectors now at the plug all six females have no power signal..

I have power from inside the car of the old relay side I have power to the volvo relay

But why do both module relay and pump relay click at the same time when I turn the key to the second position? Is that right?

I'm now thinking the injectors haven't got power

Iv got an old rtoc write up I will get back in the warm and read up a bit

Nottswoody

25-01-2014, 16:37

So I stripped back were the join is for the wires

On the 2nd turn of the key

Grey and red = have a reading of 0.6

Blue and brown = 0.69

Grey has 11.92

So grey n red are the fuel pump

Grey is run position

Blue and brown the rev counter?

Are they right?

Haz

25-01-2014, 18:30

Old relay, the fuel pump one? That should be bypassed connecting thick grey/red from fuel pump relay to white wire on gtt fuel pump, I just snip on o/s sill loom and join there.
I don't think the blue/brown needs connecting, I forget what it for, possibly join into starter wire, or ign live.
Both relays shouldn't click, all the red wires should be live, grey/red during cracking and running, green/yellow should be earthed via ecu.
If the ecu is faulty I think something electrically has damaged it so putting another on could result in the same. If the injectors are the wrong impedance that can cause the outputs to blow

Edit : brown/blue is rev counter signal from ecu.

Nottswoody

25-01-2014, 18:45

jesus in the seat of a 5

26-01-2014, 01:00

its coming along nicely

Nottswoody

26-01-2014, 03:40

The shark says you need a c1j... Youre gay and doo. You need a date..

Well that's not very helpfull now is it..

B18ftMOJO5

26-01-2014, 07:21

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120633921440?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 that's was the coil I used.

jesus in the seat of a 5

26-01-2014, 08:17

Well that's not very helpfull now is it..

glad shes up and running...sounds great

Nottswoody

03-02-2014, 19:23

Headache time with the b18 :mad: constantly running 10s on the Afrs :scratch: change the maf so it's not that standard injectors what could it be? Puzzled :coffee:

Markey Mark (BD)

03-02-2014, 19:31

Too much fuel pressure is one possibility

The position of the MAF unit makes a difference too so maybe worth playing with different positions

Nottswoody

03-02-2014, 19:47

Too much fuel pressure is one possibility

The position of the MAF unit makes a difference too so maybe worth playing with different positions

It starts off fine 14s then straight to 10s then when you rev it it starts to cut out then back to 10s :scratch:

Nottswoody

03-02-2014, 20:10

Too much fuel pressure is one possibility

The position of the MAF unit makes a difference too so maybe worth playing with different positions

Moved the maf so it's closer to the turbo and instead of going to 14s it went to 13.7 then back to 10s? :scratch:

Markey Mark (BD)

03-02-2014, 20:14

Ideally you want the MAF as far from the turbo as possible, as close to the front and as high up in the engine bay as possible too

Nottswoody

03-02-2014, 21:44

Right now I just want to burn the dam thing. Had a bit of a wiring fault so I need to strip back the loom and check it all over that's going to be a mission and a half..

Right so far checked for leaks and found none
All boost hoses tight all clips tightened
New ecus as I fried the last ones with said electrical fault

So I may need a new loom anyone got a good one?

Haz

03-02-2014, 21:55

Some info missing on the thread, always helps with diagnostics ;)
I went over to lend a hand on Saturday whilst visting Ron. Quick look over and something wasnt right. Fuses were 30amps, they should be 10amp, and one had severely melted leaving the metal behind.
Upon opening the fuel ecu it smelt burnt out too.
The main Volvo loom around the alt had managed to work it's way onto the belt and cut into 5 wires, 2 being live others sensors. They weren't fused together although did need pulling apart. Seperated and taped them up.
Popped on a spare fuel ecu (and a modded timing ecu but won't effect fuelling) and fired up fine. Idles fine but rich.
Re plumbed the icv into the boost run instead of the intake pipe.
Adjusting throttle body idle jet doesn't do much.
There is a 70-50 reducer straight after the afm, I have suggested to fit the reducer onto the turbo and enlarge the existing run.
The problem is when blipping the throttle it will stutter and bogs as it richens up. Gradually rev it and its not so bad. Ecu is possibly relying on map only.
Similar whether afm is plugged or unplugged so would normally assume afm fault, but fuelling does differ.
Another afm has been tried with the same results.
I still feel the melted 30amp fuse will more than likely mean melted and possibly fused wires within the loom. Maybe not, but that's were I would start next since it ran ok prior to the above.

Nottswoody

03-02-2014, 22:09

Thanks haz

Hard for me to write all that on my Phone..

Iv peeled back about a foot from the relay box and all looks ok so far I also peeled back cut a re joined the part were it caught the belt but still the same. Checked a bit of continuity from negative to the loom ecu parts and all had readings (what they mean I do not know but it made the noise) so I'm guessing they seem fine.. But iv given up tonight and tomorrow I'm going to take the loom off and strip it as haz has sergested.. I was only rushing as I couldn't be arsed to bike it but back on te bike I go..

Do you think I could of damaged the injectors? And would it be worth me putting that other rail I have on the car?

Haz

03-02-2014, 22:40

Continuity testing needs to be done properly with a manual. Sounds like your testing if each wire is connected to earth? You need to test point to point, ie ecu pin x to coil pin x.
Yes you may have damaged injectors and in that case yes change them, but if the loom fault is still there then you could damage them again, same for the ecu.
It's not a nice job but I say strip it, you can just change it but I like to make sure where the fault is and at least your only buying what you need ;)

Nottswoody

05-02-2014, 16:25

Right then let's pull this loom out and have a look.. Not looking forward to this there's far too many wires..

So am I right in thinking I could thin the loom off all none needed wires?

Haz

05-02-2014, 17:49

It's not bad, just messy. Wd40 on a rag should clean the tape glue off the wires. The tough bit is where the extra wrap is where you have it coming through the bulkhead as it's got extra sticky blu tac in there (remember to sort that too or will become another problem).
If your unsure use cable ties every 6" or so to and at T off's to keep the loom simple for re wrapping.
Yes you can chop some out the loom, like test points and unused sensors, and shorten where required but I wouldn't advise it until it's back running as it should if your unsure which ones to cut anyway.

Nottswoody

06-02-2014, 23:08

Markey Mark (BD)

07-02-2014, 08:31

Well after a very messy night stripping the loom down I don't think it's that all the continuity seems to work out ok.. Next went to stripping the throttle body down to get at the throttle postion switch as it maybe suspect.. Also the water temp sensor is reading way off what it should be..

So new water sensor next try that then if not that throttle sensor if not that then a very big bonfire on my drive..

Bloody cars :brickwall:

If you have connected the volvo water sensor to the 5 gauge on the dash it will read alot higher than the C1J so don't worry about that too much, the engines do run alittle hoter

Trying to rack my brains too as to what it could be, strange how it ran sweet at the beginning then all of a sudden stopped

Haz

07-02-2014, 09:47

I'm surprised it's not the loom. You did check every inch of the loom visually, not just continuity test?
Mark I think he means the ecu temp sensor, front of the head. That needs to read correct, think the values are in Hayes. If it is way out that will cause it to over fuel of it thinks it too cold and cut out and not restart if thinks it's too hot. It would explain fueling and could be why it won't rev freely.
With the tps, it will run unplugged, just not as responsive, so if it's the same plugged in/out then I don't think it's that.
This is a very weird one, if it was running good prior to the wires on alt belt issue it is electrical, something blown?
Remind me, which wires were cut through? I know there were 2 ign lives so they were putting power to sensor signal wires, was it temp sensor/afm?

Nottswoody

07-02-2014, 09:59

That's correct haz it was one of the wires to the temp sensor as you know I'm rubbish at explains the multi meter but the sensor read something like 900 when Hayes says it should read 22 or something like that so I'm guessing it's telling the ecu it's cold? As I mentioned it runs at 14.7 for 5secs ten will go down to 10-11 and stay there on the Afrs For £9 I will change it lucky enough gsf has the sensor..

Haz yes I fully stripped the loom bloody messy it was but glad I have done now as iv learnt a lot..

Markey Mark (BD)

07-02-2014, 10:50

Ah thats cool Haz, thought he meant the dash gauge sensor ;)

Haz

07-02-2014, 11:36

Nottswoody

07-02-2014, 15:46

Could be the setting on the multimeter as the settings just move the decimal point, testing the resistance could be 900, 90 or 9. Haynes will give a temp to check it at too. Either ways it's not what it should be.
The 5 secs delay will be the auto choke map, not sure which sensors it will use, but then as it changes it must be getting a duff reading.
Double check with Gsf, I think they only sell the temp gauge sensor.

So the old sensor = 9.47 oms
New sensor reads 5.96 oms on the meter reading that looks like headphones :) it's the only way I can discernible it.. Anyone confirm anything? Haven't put it together yet.

Haz

07-02-2014, 16:38

Nottswoody

07-02-2014, 16:44

What does Haynes say it should be and at what temp?
Are they both on the bench? Or is one still in the head? Cold coolant will give a different reading to one that's been sat in the house.
If they are side by side, get it in and give it a try ;)

Haven't got the Hayes my bud has.. Getting changed now to go see iv been looking on the net but dosnt tell me jack..

Nottswoody

07-02-2014, 16:57

Haven't got the Hayes my bud has.. Getting changed now to go see iv been looking on the net but dosnt tell me jack..

:( nope not that back to the drawing board

Nottswoody

07-02-2014, 17:54

:( nope not that back to the drawing board

Haz/mark anybody :scared: iv noticed now re looking at the loom that the grey and red wire from the injector connector ha been joined to a green wire that isn't connected to the car at all now would that be an earth or dose it need power? Only just noticed it but I never had that connected in the first place :scratch: that grey and red hose to the fuel relay and then to the injectors I think

Nottswoody

07-02-2014, 21:41

:( nope not that back to the drawing board

Quit for today iv tapped up every nick in the wires iv retapped all the joins that was in the loom iv checked every connection to all the loom plugs cleaned all sensor prongs and now gave up as it's bloody freezing.. Tomorrow spend an hour or so re wrapping up the loom then putting it all back in.. Tidy it all back up get it back to how it was and try her again.. If it's still the same I can only think of taking the injectors out :scratch: I don't know what else todo. :coffee:

B18ftMOJO5

07-02-2014, 22:22

Hope you get it sorted soon mate. Be worth it once its done.:smokin:

Haz

07-02-2014, 23:46

The green wire in the pink connector? Think that's for the Volvo clocks, mpg.
Will see if I can dig out the list of which pins to test and what the values should be.

Nottswoody

07-02-2014, 23:57

The green wire in the pink connector? Think that's for the Volvo clocks, mpg.
Will see if I can dig out the list of which pins to test and what the values should be.

The grey and red wire is to the old fuel pump rely that you saw in my car bud.. The green wire I spoke of has been solded to the grey wire in the loom but it was behind that hard plastic so I'm thinking it must of been original? I seriously can't visually see anything the matter anywhere. Only things left I can think of is manifold gaskets? But I think mark put new on I know the inlet has new gasget on or injectors.. :scratch:

Nottswoody

07-02-2014, 23:58

Hope you get it sorted soon mate. Be worth it once its done.:smokin:

Cheers bud

Haz

08-02-2014, 00:14

Can you take a pic of where you mean on the loom, generally grey/red are live with ign, injectors go to green. It joins under the plastic and heads towards the relays, but not in the pink connector?
Have you checked the condition of all 4 plugs, if they all look the same then injectors should be ok, but you may have one that's worse.

Haz

08-02-2014, 00:18

While checking the loom did you also peel back the rubber boots on the connectors to check the wires/terminal are good too?

Nottswoody

08-02-2014, 00:21

While checking the loom did you also peel back the rubber boots on the connectors to check the wires/terminal are good too?

Yep and pushed them all in and did another beep test for continuity and they all read 6? I don't have an orange block it was an already alterd loom haz.. I have the grey n red defiantly going into the car and that grey and red go into the injector plug so I'm guessing your right it's a live for it..

Haz

08-02-2014, 00:29

K, pretty sure it's the mpg wire then, doesn't need connecting but is live do make sure it's insulated.
Testing all the sensors has got to be next then, just need to find the details, laptop has been down a few weeks now :(

Nottswoody

08-02-2014, 13:56

:scratch::( put it all back together and it's still exactly the same.. What's next? Injectors out? :scratch:

Nottswoody

08-02-2014, 16:46

Well I found a cracked injector could that be the issue? Don't shoot me I'm grabbing at anything here but it's definatley split all across the nib of it.

Also I have some 850 t5 part number 0280150785 injectors I could put on will they be ok?

Nottswoody

09-02-2014, 16:49

Another wasted weekend got abosulutley no we're

So next I can only think the fuel reg could be knackerd?

Any one got a fuel reg?
Well and truly stumped and bored of it now.. And I'm in bad books from the mrs AGAIN..

Nottswoody

15-02-2014, 13:53

Trevhib

15-02-2014, 14:03

Was it not the injector(s) then :(

Nottswoody

15-02-2014, 14:07

Was it not the injector(s) then :(

Nope new plugs and injector still exactly the same iv tested the fuel reg with a car pump and it seems to be holding well and not leaking so I'm also thinking it's not that.. So iv gone back to what haz says and maybe the loom is fuzked just about 12" feels rigid compared to the rest but it's on the ignition side of the loom and idle ecu not the main ecu that fried :scratch:

Markey Mark (BD)

15-02-2014, 15:14

If the wires are very hard them yes it sounds like they are burnt mate

Nottswoody

15-02-2014, 15:46

If the wires are very hard them yes it sounds like they are burnt mate

I wouldn't say very hard but harder.. I have no probs cutting and joining the normal wires but there are three thick black wires but when I took the coating off they seem to have a couple of thin wires within each covered by wire then the black coating are these ok to cut a long as I join them but they won't have any outer wire covering them.. If you get my drift

Nottswoody

15-02-2014, 19:28

I haven't tried another yet but my temp suddenly went through the roof. Looks like my new thermostat if ****ed don't tell me that could be the cause? I will go bonkers if it is... Tried it in boiling water and it didn't budge.. No way surely not!!

Nottswoody

15-02-2014, 20:25

Nope not that either that's it everything's coming off tomorrow sick of pissing about breaking my back having to doit round everything..

How many earths should I have?

Nottswoody

18-02-2014, 13:26

Iv bought an adjustable fuel reg anybody know what psi it should be for the b18 or what it should be with my set up? Cheers

B18ftMOJO5

18-02-2014, 20:20

I had a diffrent one on haz told me to keep to the normal b18ft one as the other aee trouble setting up....ask haz mate.....:agree:

Nottswoody

18-02-2014, 21:14

I had a diffrent one on haz told me to keep to the normal b18ft one as the other aee trouble setting up....ask haz mate.....:agree:

Iv got it at 45psi at the min and runs well so it can't be far off when I get the car running right in the first place I will have a play with the adjustable..

Haz

18-02-2014, 22:42

Right then new one.. Don't shoot me as I'm no electrition.. Toward the ecu plug the wires seem really rigid when you try to bend them.. Could this mean they are burnt? Same wire further down feel easy to bend. Perhaps it's nothing it's just a thought because I can't find f£)k all else

If you mean towards the timing ecu, the wires are tighter packed, but i thought you have stripped the entire loom to check for melted wires?? Until you have looked at every inch of the loom you won't know if it's faulty.
The black thicker wires are screened, like a tv coax. Ideally these don't want to be chopped, but if you want to shorten them do so from an end either ecu or sensor so there are no breaks.
Not sure how you mean you've test the fuel reg, but it wants an inline gauge between fuel pump to rail, the test was to see if it was sticking making more pressure than std. Std should be 45psi. The regs mojo mentioned are the rising rate ones, can be a pain to setup. Sounds like it's not the reg?
Is the stat the correct way round. It will open slowly in boiling water, but should open.
There's 2 earth's in the Volvo loom, by the coil and the injectors.

Nottswoody

19-02-2014, 08:44

£300 later still at the same spot. Iv given up now mr smiths coming tomorrow to help as iv exhausted my few talents and I'm just going round in circles..

Benjibrady

19-02-2014, 12:36

I do genuinely feel sorry for you mate. I couldn't work out what was wrong with my afr's either.
I would have said it was timing but it is difficult to tell. I'll be interested to see what the outcome from mr smiths visit is.

Haz

19-02-2014, 13:18

Nottswoody

19-02-2014, 13:48

The loom still needs to be fully checked, it may not be that but until it has been there's nothing else that's changed since before the first outing where it ran ok.
Ben, how would the timing affect running rich? There's 2 seperate ecu's.

Haz iv stripped the loom to the best of my ability all covers and old volvo coverings were taken off and visually checked but I'm the first to admit I still don't know what I'm doing and now iv fried my meter.. See what mr smith finds at this point iv had it with it.. I hope it's something simple something failed but as far as every wire is separated all Knicks to wires are tapped up bad bits I think are cut out and re joined..
My talents and patients have ran out. Good thing is I have spares for the next year now :)

Benjibrady

19-02-2014, 15:23

The loom still needs to be fully checked, it may not be that but until it has been there's nothing else that's changed since before the first outing where it ran ok.
Ben, how would the timing affect running rich? There's 2 seperate ecu's.

If your inlet & exhaust were opening either to early or to late in relation to the spark & the position of the piston on the compression stroke (as if the cam was a tooth out) could this not cause it to run rich?:confused:

Im trying to get my head around it, but (and this is a pure stab in the dark) if the spark was to late (i.e. the piston has already begun the power stroke) could this cause the gaseous mixture to not ignite properly resulting in the 02 lambda seeing a rich mixture.

having said all that I could be talking complete rubbish :scratch:

Nottswoody

20-02-2014, 21:07

So the very nice man mr smith came over to save me and tested everything on the loom and sensors and it all seemed to work out so that just left.. Is one of the injectors staying open? So I swopped a couple around from some spares and tried again and it only fired on three. But atleast for the first time it actually went lean so hopefully if I can get some decent injectors that maybe the fault..

So who's got some good volvo injectors spare? :coffee: :sos:

Nottswoody

20-02-2014, 22:28

It's ok I have some injectors on the way I hope it's them :)

Trevhib

21-02-2014, 10:57

Excellent effort to resolve this without having resorting to torching it :agree:

Fingers crossed that you've nailed it this time.

Nottswoody

25-02-2014, 14:30

AGGGGGGHHHHHHH :brickwall: :brickwall:

Iv tried everything it's not the injectors

So now timing can someone explain how to...

Trevhib

25-02-2014, 15:20

How can the timing have changed overnight? :(

Nottswoody

25-02-2014, 15:37

How can the timing have changed overnight? :(

God knows iv changed everything bar the loom and haven't checked the timing that's it everything else has been swopped it just constantly runs rich.. Fires up straight away at 14.9 then hits the tens.. Mega pissed off now runs out of mot tomorrow.. I truly am lost and skint because of the dam thing. ****ed off with it would be understatement :scratch: might just buy that loom off eBay cos iv had it.. :brickwall:

Markey Mark (BD)

26-02-2014, 08:26

I would try the loom, if everything was running sweet when first installed the the problems stated when the wiring loom was chipped through it could still be damaged in vaious other places when it shorted out

Will search the spare garage for you on weekend, don't get change to go in there during the week

Nottswoody

05-03-2014, 14:17

Guys can I use a volvo 480 starter motor on my 5 box? Cheers I think there cheaper new than for a 5 one..

GaryS

05-03-2014, 15:17

Nottswoody

05-03-2014, 15:31

Depends on the size of your flywheel 215mm and the 5 starter wont work as it uses 10 teeth. If u have the smaller 200mm flywheel then the 5 starter (9 teeth) will work. So count your teeth or know the size of your flywheel. Think thats right :ashamed:

Cheers iv orders a 5 one now as that's what I had onit it was the solenoid that failed onit x2 in a week they were both old one though... Thanks for the advice :)

Markey Mark (BD)

05-03-2014, 16:01

Use the Volvo starter, just remember to position the dowel on the outer lug on the gearbox not the inner

I don't think the flywheel diameters change between 200mm and 215mm clutch's, its just the mounting holes for the clutch that differ

Nottswoody

08-03-2014, 15:04

Finally sorted it :) it seems when we tried the new ecu before finding the cuts in the loom it had fried that too :mad: new ecu and everything's ok :) £300+ mistake and many late nights stripping for nothing :ashamed: bloody cars :wasntme: thanks Gary for the new ecu and thanks for all the advice guys one positive I now know every inch of a b18 literally. Now hopefully it will be a good years boosting

Markey Mark (BD)

08-03-2014, 16:01

R5MJH

08-03-2014, 16:04

indeed matey good news so what was it in the end! the wiring or ecu or both?

Markey Mark (BD)

08-03-2014, 16:41

indeed matey good news so what was it in the end! the wiring or ecu or both?

Sounds like it was both in the end, shame the new ecu he fitted before fried straight away with the damaged loom

Nottswoody

08-03-2014, 16:57

indeed matey good news so what was it in the end! the wiring or ecu or both?

The wires had like fused together a total of 5 so that killed my first ecu then we put another ecu on before we saw the wires.. Bit of a pisser really but live and learn it's a new thing for me this efi Larky. Lesson learnt

B18ftMOJO5

08-03-2014, 17:02

Great news you got it sorted. You deserve it with all the effort youve put in. :agree:

R5MJH

08-03-2014, 17:33

The wires had like fused together a total of 5 so that killed my first ecu then we put another ecu on before we saw the wires.. Bit of a pisser really but live and learn it's a new thing for me this efi Larky. Lesson learnt

im still learning too matey, well least it sorted so it all started with the wires cutting through the alternator belt, best getting boosting now boss pmsl:laugh:

Trevhib

08-03-2014, 18:33

:agree: great news

Wallace

08-03-2014, 23:41

:goodJob::burnrubber:

Nottswoody

09-03-2014, 09:10

:goodJob::burnrubber:

Mot hopefully on Tuesday then I'm going to hammer the little France/Swedish bitch :)