welding advice.

[jack joy]

My 11 turbo failed it's mot ,on 2 paches of rust, one the jacking point and the other bit ,in the arch. If I get a patch welded over the rust holes, will this trap the corrosion ? haven't really had any welding done before ,so don't know the correct way of sorting this.
thanks in advance
p.s hope you all had good xmas!!!

[Scoff]

you really need to cut it out else it'll come back and bite you in the ass in a years time, water always finds a way in!

jacking points are the most horrible of welding jobs, not a good one to learn on :D but its only metal so all do-able.

I've done the jacking points on a few r5's and one R11, they're pretty similar. it's normally the very bottom flat that rots, you might get away with cutting it out and welding some fresh plate in. sometimes they like to rot away from the floor too.

it's a horrible job because your on your back, welding up into the air is never nice, compounded by the grease and underseal that's hard to get out of all the nooks and crannies. its best to scrap/grind as much of the underseal and crap off as you can then burn the rest out from between the layers and out of the corners with a blow torch (fire extinguisher / water at the ready). get it as close to bare metal as you can before you start to weld.

there is some access holes leading into the "inside" of the jacking point through the floor, pull the carpet up and you see them. you'll need to get some underseal into the inside of the jacking points once your done so they don't rot from the inside-out (which is how they tend to rot in the first place!). you'll notice water likes to get up inside the jacking points through the holes then sit there.

until last christmas my car was held together with paint pretty much, I spent 2 weeks on the floor, one jacking point literally fell off in my hand, only the underseal was holding it up! I replaced jacking points, inner sills, outer sills, sections of rear arch, all 4 bumper mounts and bits of chassis rail. I should have scrapped the shell really.

[Penfold aka The Dealer]

You could just use fibre glass if your just after a quick fix through an mot (Remember to do a good job and to cover the whole underneath in underseal as it will hide the Fibre Glass but will be fine if the MOT Tester pokes where you have used fibre glass it will still be strong)... learn to weld later in the warmer months if you want.

Its a bodge job but it will do... some cars are made of Fibre Glass remeber!

[Scoff]

You could just use fibre glass if your just after a quick fix through an mot (Remember to do a good job and to cover the whole underneath in underseal as it will hide the Fibre Glass but will be fine if the MOT Tester pokes where you have used fibre glass it will still be strong)... learn to weld later in the warmer months if you want.

Its a bodge job but it will do... some cars are made of Fibre Glass remeber!

remind me not to buy a car from you :D

[jack joy]

Just bin out to get some glass fibre compound:D Thanks very much for the advice though,I assume welding + waxoyl=fire,so best be thorough in clening it all out!

[Brigsy]

Fibreglass is a right bodge, fix it once & properly imo.

[Scoff]

Just bin out to get some glass fibre compound:D Thanks very much for the advice though,I assume welding + waxoyl=fire,so best be thorough in clening it all out!

:(

[rs250nut]

Its a bodge job but it will do... some cars are made of Fibre Glass remeber![/quote]


But they have a steel or aluminium chassis to bolt to.