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w35ty
28-04-2013, 14:45
Run my car in.. Thought id turn boost up abit to 1.2 bar.. Running well but now bottom end sounds like its knocking again :( had enough! Only rebuilt it christmas and back to square one.. Dunno whether to get another crank, bearings etc and give it another go or just leave it and not drive it and get rid of the c1j..and go b18ft Head doing :crap:

GT Josh
28-04-2013, 15:06
Cheaper conversion I'd say is the f7p. Can pick up those lumps daft cheap

dangerous dave
28-04-2013, 15:19
Can't you just give the bottom end to a machine shop, let them sort the clearances bearing etc and bolt it back together..

James5
28-04-2013, 15:41
Can't you just give the bottom end to a machine shop, let them sort the clearances bearing etc and bolt it back together..

I am with Dave not in the way Dave dreams off :laugh: but give the bottom end to machine shop to sort and match bearing's .

F7p isnt really a cheap option if your turboing one. B18ft on the other hand is fairly cheap.

Markey Mark (BD)
28-04-2013, 15:48
Real bad luck mate, know you spent all of Christmas rebuilding a new engine (ground crank, bearings, rings etc) and for it to do this again really does get to you

As mentioned you can just sort another bottom end out but know you been keen on doing a conversion, i'd say work out what route you deffinately want to go and do that

Brigsy
28-04-2013, 16:02
Definitely bad luck mate. However id still say stick to the old c1j as they are ok when everything is right...id be stripping it down to see what has failed.

w35ty
28-04-2013, 16:10
Really dont know what to do just sick of throwing money away and its my any car so not being able to drive again now aswell is annoying.. Just money all the time :crap: just want it to work! Cuz i dont wanna get rid of it just sick of the hassle...

B18ftMOJO5
28-04-2013, 16:33
Bad news mate.. Get a b18ft. Drive it all day everyday with no worries.

TNT ANDY
28-04-2013, 17:12
Really dont know what to do just sick of throwing money away and its my any car so not being able to drive again now aswell is annoying.. Just money all the time :crap: just want it to work! Cuz i dont wanna get rid of it just sick of the hassle...

Chin up fella - bottom ends a piece of cake, engine in, head on. Not so bad, bet you can have it stripped down in a morning.

Don't worry about £££, there are lots of people paying £££ more than that every month to drive a 2013 car about, this is peanuts.

Chin up fella, your with the rest of us, been there, done that and at 39, I'm just getting to know it's not worth getting upset about, just suck it up and carry on.

Feel the love.

Tony Walker
28-04-2013, 17:35
What's the oil pressure like? Did you check the pump when rebuilding?.

w35ty
29-04-2013, 07:08
oil pressure is like 3bar start up after its wamred up and running drops to just over 1... It had a refurb kid put in when my turbo went but i still recon thats the cause :crap: gonna order one of the fully refurb ones from cgb i think so then i know its like new, decided its the last time i spend on this engine now just wan it to het me through this year then gonna go conversion i think

w35ty
29-04-2013, 10:43
Iv messaged cgb after the oil pump recon they do for £159.99 asked him for rtoc discount and said no :crap: anywhere cheaper that does like a new oil pump?

westy94
29-04-2013, 10:47
Speak to mike phase1 16v turbo

I'm sure he can help

Brigsy
29-04-2013, 10:49
New rotors for an old pump is usually more than enough mate. Check the prv isnt jammed. Id say your oil pressure loss is due to poor tolerances on the crank etc.

You should see at least 45psi at 3k rpm on a hot engine.

SCHWARTZ
29-04-2013, 11:50
Cgb do a discount of 10% if you say your with renault5gtturbo.com but your better off going to mike as said you could buy a whole b18ft for that:eek:

w35ty
29-04-2013, 15:14
It had the refurb kit (rotor arm) put in when turbo went just before christmas(before rebuild) im only getting 1bar really when warm and goes to about 2-2.5bar at 3000rpm(stack gauge)

w35ty
29-04-2013, 15:15
Do i do away with the crank and try another iv got and have that machined?

w35ty
30-04-2013, 13:31
just bought one of them refurb oil pumps from cgb... £165 posted:crap: gonna take sump off tonight hopefully crank aint too bad so can jus replace bearings

GTphil
30-04-2013, 14:09
If i were you i would be putting up some pictures of the old pump, including the scoring marks inside the pump housing to see what people think, if all looks ok then i would definitely at least pull the crank out and get it checked by a pro.

if you spend £160 and it does it again that might be curtains for the c1j.

w35ty
30-04-2013, 14:44
Already bought it now :crap: il upload pics of the pump and crank when i take sump off tonight hopefully if weather stays ok..

Brigsy
30-04-2013, 14:48
If its knocking i dare say the crank will need a grind at least...best off whipping the engine out

w35ty
30-04-2013, 15:03
Rekon mate? If thats the case i wont bother taking sump off il just strip pipes off etc tonight might use other crank iv got i think thats in good con still

djinuk
30-04-2013, 15:51
As already said chin up mate.. after owning jap cars now i can honestly say we are so lucky with r5's.. for example jap sr20 and ca18 bottom ends commonly let go.. more so you can grind the cranks, so you have to buy good 2nd hand cranks, which are circa £300.. then bearings etc on top... we really are lucky..

phase i 16 v turbo
30-04-2013, 15:56
Agreed! Try and find an RS500 head for under £1k secondhand

:D

R5MJH
30-04-2013, 16:03
ive had knocking from the rod/gudge/piston before its not necessary the crank mate did ya check rods etc when you installed it before

w35ty
30-04-2013, 18:13
I had the pistons and rods off member on here when i bought block off him
They were standards machined for lower comp, he said theyd any done 1000miles and they looked ok to me.. so i dunno? Im jus gonna take engine out i think and see whats what

w35ty
30-04-2013, 19:14
just about to start draining oil and taking apart.. Really want this doing by the weekend but paydays friday and dont think il get parts in time :crap: plus bank hol gives me extra day to work onit...

Dave Reed
30-04-2013, 19:15
I had the pistons and rods off member on here when i bought block off him
They were standards machined for lower comp, he said theyd any done 1000miles and they looked ok to me.. so i dunno? Im jus gonna take engine out i think and see whats what


I can assure you Westy they were fine mate, it was all new stuff and only fitted to my old engine for the milage I told you :)

Tony Walker
30-04-2013, 21:30
It should be fairly obvious once you remove the bearings as to whats making the noise.

w35ty
30-04-2013, 21:45
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/w35ty/Photo30-04-2013085329PM_zps6ddda31d.jpg (http://s35.photobucket.com/user/w35ty/media/Photo30-04-2013085329PM_zps6ddda31d.jpg.html)

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/w35ty/Photo30-04-2013084908PM_zpsde04ea8d.jpg (http://s35.photobucket.com/user/w35ty/media/Photo30-04-2013084908PM_zpsde04ea8d.jpg.html)

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/w35ty/Photo30-04-2013084902PM_zps94e0daea.jpg (http://s35.photobucket.com/user/w35ty/media/Photo30-04-2013084902PM_zps94e0daea.jpg.html)

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/w35ty/Photo30-04-2013084833PM_zpse4f9649e.jpg (http://s35.photobucket.com/user/w35ty/media/Photo30-04-2013084833PM_zpse4f9649e.jpg.html)

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/w35ty/Photo30-04-2013084706PM_zps470016d2.jpg (http://s35.photobucket.com/user/w35ty/media/Photo30-04-2013084706PM_zps470016d2.jpg.html)

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/w35ty/Photo30-04-2013084654PM_zpsd8503bca.jpg (http://s35.photobucket.com/user/w35ty/media/Photo30-04-2013084654PM_zpsd8503bca.jpg.html)

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/w35ty/Photo30-04-2013084646PM_zpse91f1f73.jpg (http://s35.photobucket.com/user/w35ty/media/Photo30-04-2013084646PM_zpse91f1f73.jpg.html)

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/w35ty/Photo30-04-2013084634PM_zps6c86218d.jpg (http://s35.photobucket.com/user/w35ty/media/Photo30-04-2013084634PM_zps6c86218d.jpg.html)

w35ty
30-04-2013, 21:48
well managed to get sump off after work to have a look, took few piucs what people think?

i only took one of the caps off to have a look, didnt look to bad to me? started to go dark so called it a night.. going to take rest off tomorrow and main caps too,

the rag pic is what i cleaned out of bottom of sump, fair bit of filings :(:(:(

Tony Walker
30-04-2013, 21:50
pump doesnt look good :(

w35ty
30-04-2013, 21:51
I can assure you Westy they were fine mate, it was all new stuff and only fitted to my old engine for the milage I told you :)

yeah looked all good to me and believe what you told me, dont think its them anyways..

w35ty
30-04-2013, 21:53
pump doesnt look good :(

i thought that and that didnt look like that 500 mile ago, well the rotor part isit? looks scored to f**k now.. iv ordered a new refurb from cgb the whole thing so least thats that

Tony Walker
30-04-2013, 21:56
Looks like alot of grit/crap/swarf has been through it. once back together id definetly run it gently without a turbo on for a bit and do a few oil changes.
I think a second hand pump with new internals would probably be the best route. and machine flat the part that clamps on to the top of the rotor as oil pressure can be lost there too.

w35ty
30-04-2013, 22:04
Without turbo on? and i ordered the refurb one which was £160 inside machined or something so it says on the ad..

Brigsy
30-04-2013, 23:08
Plenty of ****e in the sump by looks of it. Check all the bearings, did you plastigauge to check the bearing clearance when building it?

TNT ANDY
01-05-2013, 06:27
Without turbo on? and i ordered the refurb one which was £160 inside machined or something so it says on the ad..

You don't want any particulates damaging a turbo also, unless you have one that you don't care too much for. I have a few paper weights here if needed, no cost, just postage.

w35ty
01-05-2013, 06:46
Never used plastigauge :crap:

And i havnt got another turbo so could probs do with one what you got mate

w35ty
02-05-2013, 20:44
Ok im going to take all bigend and main caps off tomorrow as finish work early, pump should be here to by then, where can i get bearings from 0.25 was the last lot i put in for saturday? i know theres mike but dunno if theyll get here in time would like to get it back together over the weekend if poss

Tony Walker
02-05-2013, 21:44
make sure after fitting the new big end bearings you attach torque and then rotate the crankshaft one by one too make sure its not tight.

w35ty
02-05-2013, 23:08
Ok sound will do, i torqued them to what said in haynes.. Yet was abit hard at first to turn over with rachet when i rebuilt it after doing it for a while it went ok:confused:

Nottswoody
03-05-2013, 09:02
Ok sound will do, i torqued them to what said in haynes.. Yet was abit hard at first to turn over with rachet when i rebuilt it after doing it for a while it went ok:confused:

I'm sorry to hear about this bud but this is what I did

Got my crank polished the engineer then said I needed -25 bearings which I got off mike then kept all pistons and caps the same as they came off the engine. On your main bearings did you have the holes to the back of the block? And the caps with the holes too? This is a must so the oil can get in.. I had one the wrong way round so they were not matching this will kill your bearings quickly.. I also managed to mix one piston rod to the wrong cap and it wouldn't turn by hand freely.. If its tight by hand something's wrong.. I hope you get this sorted bud.. Give us a pm if you have any questions I will be around Saturday or just look through my photos as the cap holes are on There to see if its tight at any point go back a few steps and start again..

w35ty
03-05-2013, 20:56
I had mine done and he said to use 0.25 which i got from mike too.. im sure i put them in right il soon find out tomorrow when i take them all out.. and i definately put the rod end caps on the right ones they came off, il see whats what tomorrow and post up..

Nice one though buddy:disagree:

Nottswoody
03-05-2013, 21:14
That notch on your last photo has to match the notch on your rods.. Sorry if this sounds like I'm preaching but that's what I got the wrong way round on one.. Thankfully someone told me before I ran it.. I hope it helps

Tony Walker
03-05-2013, 22:12
right caps to rod and right way round. you can see them fit perfecty together as there frozen and snapped so they have a specific pattern that matches the other part.

w35ty
05-05-2013, 20:15
Will double check this sure i got them right, should be getting hoist tomorrow and engines ready to come out so will soon sort the problem an give everything a good clean

w35ty
07-05-2013, 20:23
Well engines ready to come out now, few pics i took of the damage :crap:

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/w35ty/null_zps2218b9aa.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/w35ty/null_zpsbbc7c016.jpg

Tony Walker
07-05-2013, 23:18
looks scored on that journal..... does it feel rough to touch?

Sparkie
07-05-2013, 23:44
looks scored on that journal..... does it feel rough to touch?

see the black bits stuck in the bearing :crap:

w35ty
08-05-2013, 15:16
Yeah feels rough :/ gonna whip my crank out old block later and get that machined so ready for the weekend i think

w35ty
20-05-2013, 19:47
Cranks now ready to go in along with new oil pump, so car should be back working this weekend, been slacking lately but now im back at it..

Iv plastigauged my crank and it says 0.100

The guy at machine shop told me to get 0.25 bearings

Anyone know the reccommend clearance on bearings to crank? To see if 0.25 ones will do the job.. Dunno where my haynes has gone :scratch: