setting up a 36-1 trigger wheel

[Red October]

Im stuck.

Fitting the 36-1 triger wheel and scoffs tdc and bracked what is the correct position of the trigger wheel? Or how do I set it up. Cheers in advance.

[Dave Reed]

Taken from Scoff's efi parts site.

Fitting instructions:
1. Set engine at exactly TDC. Lock it via the flywheel teeth.
2. Remove 19mm head (12mm thread) bottom pulley bolt.
3. Remove the thick thrust washer.
4. Fit the bolt through the trigger wheel and bolt it back up finger-tight, leaving the original washer out.
5. At this point the wheel needs to be able to turn by hand (not tightened up). The wheel should be sitting flush with the face of the bottom pulley.
6. Remove the 2 10mm bolts/studs where the bracket needs to locate.
7. Install the bracket into place screwing the bolts back in through the 6mm holes in the bracket.
8. Check that the trigger wheel can spin without catching the tip of the crank angle sensor. There should be aprox 1-2mm gap.
9. Check that the engine is still at TDC.
10. Align the 'gap' in the trigger wheel with the tip of the crank angle sensor.
11. Slowly turn the trigger wheel CLOCKWISE while counting the teeth as they pass by the sensor.
12. Stop when the sensor is aligned with the 9th tooth after the gap. (90 degrees).
13. The Gap should now be pointing roughly at the 3 O'clock position. (with the sensor at 12 O'clock)
14. Tighten the bottom pulley bolt as normal checking that the trigger wheel does not move.
15. Do not worry if you get it half a tooth (5 degrees) out. It will be possible in the ECU software to fine tune the angle to match.

Note 1: It is strongly advised that you weld the original C1J pulley wheel to the crank-hub (the cast removable section that pushes on to the end of the crankshaft). It is possible for the pulley (and so trigger wheel) to slip otherwise over time. Further tack welding the trigger wheel to the pulley will ensure that it cannot move at all, but should not be essential.)

Note 2: If you are using this kit with a MegaJolt or other EDIS based system then it is important that you get the timing as close to 90 degrees BTDC as described above. These systems do not usually have as much scope for correction as a full standalone.

[Red October]

Cheers dave.

[Red October]

Next question is.........

To accomodate fmic pipework I got a campus pulley and belt, problem is with the belt route it looks mighty tight between the trigger wheel, efi parts tdc bracket back to the alternator. It doesnt look like it will all fit correctly. Or am I flapping over nothing? Or will the belt catch and snap? Cheers in advance.

[BluntyR5GTT]

stop bloody faffing n get it in :laugh:

[Logg]

stop bloody faffing n get it in :laugh:

As the man says just fit it.

I've no issues with mine.

Have you welded the campus pulley to the crank insert thingy? I'd advise you do otherwise you'll find your timing wheel may slip.

[Red October]

As the man says just fit it.

I've no issues with mine.

Have you welded the campus pulley to the crank insert thingy? I'd advise you do otherwise you'll find your timing wheel may slip.

Tell me more logg please. It sound simple what your saying, ill have a tinkle in the morning.

Blunty..........tweedie spotted it and was being defeatist about it lol