GTT Sill Replacement

[Woznaldo]

I've got to replace my LH Inner and Outer Sill and LH Jacking Point but would like to know if I need to brace or support the car before removal, or is it OK to leave it sat on its wheels?

Cazerooadoo's C2 GTT project (hope you don't mind mate) looked like it was sat on its wheels and the body shop have only spliced in part on the Sill? Was the old Sill cut at those points for a structural reason? Pic below:

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6186/6098470654_df4f93b3d1_z.jpg

It's going to cost a shizzle load just to get the new parts to Oz so I might tackle the job myself with the help of a mate who is handy with a welder to save some cash.

I also want to know if it's easy to swap over to Torx Screw In Hinge Pins instead of thr Roll Pins I have now. Is this an easy job?

[Woznaldo]

Just found this thread but it doesn't really answer my question, or at least not al of it.

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=24123&highlight=Sill+Replacement

[Woznaldo]

Also, I know I'm going to need these too!

77 03 080 051 - Clips
77 03 072 289 - Rivets

Sold in packs of 10.

£23 all in (not sure if that price is still good now?..)

Or are there some Vauxhall equivalents that will do the job at half the price?

[Woznaldo]

I just want to know about the bracing at the moment so I call pull the old Sill off.

[Matt@CodeRedMotorsports]

You don't need to brace it, also depending on how bad the sill has gone, you won't need the rivets either. When I did the race car one I cut it below the swage line.

[Woznaldo]

Thanks Matt, I might cut the Sill in the same area and then check condition.

[Woznaldo]

I've started my Sill removal by drilling out the spot welds using a Spot Weld Drill Bit. I've taken Matt's advice and marked a cut line below the Sill Rivets so I don't have to worry about putting them on the new one, but I'm not sure where to take the cut at the front of the Sill where the initial damage was found?

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa40/woznaldo/The%20Yellow%20Peril/IMG_2781_zps042135a1.jpg

Any advice from the Body Work specialists among us?.....

[michael tierney]

one thing to look out for(nearly caught me out....mount the sill with skin-pins/clips and if u have the door off put it back on to make sure u have enough clearance at the bottom!!

[Woznaldo]

Rather than ask how much someone would charge to change an Inner and Outer Sill and Jacking Point, does anyone know how many manhours are involved for an experienced welder/body shop (sort of place that can do suicide door conversions etc), not including respray.

I know this is sort of a 'how long is a piece of string' type question, but my shell is in quite good condition and the rust is limited mainly to the Jacking point so should be fairly straight forward.

Thanks in advance. :)

[Brigsy]

If the rest of thr sill is solid, just replace the first few inches? Will save a world of pain.

[GTphil]

When my mate did my jacking points for me he also had to do a largeish patch in the drivers floor pan the front 50cm or so of the outer sill and about 25cm of the inner sill. Also a decent sized patch above the jacking point on the drivers side, I stripped the car out for him and did some of the prep/paint, it took him 13.5 h

[Woznaldo]

Thanks for the replies, I've been told about 10 hours of work for Inner, Outer and Jacking point on one side?

[GTphil]

For a full inner and outer and jacking point that is probably on the money;)