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cook1981
16-09-2012, 16:02
Hi folks I'd just like to know what's involved in fitting a new starter motor, I've got a refurbished one sitting around that I bought from cgb a while back, any tips welcome, I'm quite handy with spanners but know mechanic so all wisdom is welcome

cook1981
17-09-2012, 09:14
Hi folks I'd just like to know what's involved in fitting a new starter motor, I've got a refurbished one sitting around that I bought from cgb a while back, any tips welcome, I'm quite handy with spanners but know mechanic so all wisdom is welcome


Has no one changed one before, what I'm really looking to find out is if there is any issues with access, or any tips that would help

tubbyG
17-09-2012, 09:23
Take off the drivers wheel and jack up that side - It will give you a bit more access and allow you to pull the motor out through the arch once you have unbolted it. - Disconnect your battery also.

I undo the starter bolts from above by reaching under the turbo, its really easy on mine as I don't have the std air box or heat shields in place, but if your 5 is in std trim I guess you you willl need to remove these first

cook1981
17-09-2012, 10:51
Take off the drivers wheel and jack up that side - It will give you a bit more access and allow you to pull the motor out through the arch once you have unbolted it. - Disconnect your battery also.

I undo the starter bolts from above by reaching under the turbo, its really easy on mine as I don't have the std air box or heat shields in place, but if your 5 is in std trim I guess you you willl need to remove these first

Thanks for the reply I'll give it a try at the weekend :)

chezzer85
17-09-2012, 12:38
Can be a bit of a nuckel busting job from what i remember, 13mm stubby spanner is a must, as not much room.

BILLY-R5GTT
17-09-2012, 13:07
Disconnet the battery first :)

The best way is to take your drivers wheel off to get it out and you can also see the wires and bolts on the starter, one spade connector for the solenoid and 1 x 13mm nut to hold the live wire from the battery and the other wire from the loom.

with the wheel off you can use a ratchet with a couple of extension bars to get the 13mm nut off if need be or you can use a stubby 13mm if you squeeze down the rear of the engine.

3 x 16mm bolts to hold the starter on, the two top bolts you can can get to with a socket, ratchet and extension bar, the lower one you will be best using a 16mm spanner to undo it because a bit of the gearbox restricts access to it.

Do you have all the standard heat shields and brackets on your exhaust? These will have to be removed i.e. starter heat shield, manifold heat shield fitted with various 10mm bolts and a 13mm bolt on your exhaust bracket that holds it to the back of the block.

You may be able to remove the starter with the down pipe undone from the elbow on the turbo and moved out the way, or you can always remove it completely if you want a little more space...

and make sure you don't loose the dowel from between your gearbox and starter when you take it off, if this is missing when you put it back on you will have trouble turning it over. It has to be there for alignment :agree:

enjoy! :D

Chunk
17-09-2012, 16:04
I find it pretty easy to jack the car up and do it from underneath. My downpipe and exhaust are really easy to remove so I just get them out the way and pull it down.

Check you have a locating dowel fitted on the new starter motor

cook1981
17-09-2012, 18:31
I find it pretty easy to jack the car up and do it from underneath. My downpipe and exhaust are really easy to remove so I just get them out the way and pull it down.

Check you have a locating dowel fitted on the new starter motor

I might go down the route of taking the down pipe off as I've got one with a bung and a brand new afr gauge lying around to, how do you get the wiring into the cabin for the afr? This is the reason its never been fitted

Kris M
17-09-2012, 19:03
Either drill a hole or use the hole where the o.e boost gauge / speedo enter the cabin