Are steel liners rated?

[BILLY-R5GTT]

Just wondering if anyone is running big boost and a set of steel liners and if you rate them or not?

I have replaced a few cracked cast liners in GTT's running big boost in the past.

Are they worth the money and how are they with the ring wear on the pistons?

I have been looking at a set for £700 but I don't know wether I can justify them yet.

Do you think if I took a cast liner to a cnc machinist they could replicate one out of steel for then less than £175? :D

[Tony Walker]

I think cracking liners is down to poor tune. Alot more is known about the 32dis now, main jet adjustment isnt needed anymore, majority of tune is through air corrector and 2nd stage adjustment, this is good for a fair bit of boost, but on long pulls the float chamber can empty in which case either a bigger needle valve is needed and/or adjustable fuel pressure. Cracking liners isnt because there weak(usually)
What sort of pressure are you hoping to run?

[BILLY-R5GTT]

Your right there Tony, there are alot more variables than just the boost pressure in an engine and when metals get hot under pressure and wrong timing/mixture is involved then other parts i.e. liners have alot more stresses on them causing failure.

Hoping to run late 20's (psi) at tops or maybe slightly more for a good quarter mile run, for everyday use i'm probably looking around 14-20 psi for reliability.

Just pricing up all the parts at the moment, I think a good carb is the secret to a more relaible engine or switching to EFi.

I won't be switching to EFi though, I worked at PCS for sometime but i'm no mechanic (many qualifications in engineering not mechanics) although I can put an engine together no problem EFi is to complicated for me and i'm not a fan of technology :sad2:.

I like to stick with basics :)

[GT Josh]

Big money. Like Tony said, if you tune correctly they shouldn't be needed. Unless running silly boost!

[danielmk323]

Your right there Tony, there are alot more variables than just the boost pressure in an engine and when metals get hot under pressure and wrong timing/mixture is involved then other parts i.e. liners have alot more stresses on them causing failure.

Hoping to run late 20's (psi) at tops or maybe slightly more for a good quarter mile run, for everyday use i'm probably looking around 14-20 psi for reliability.

Just pricing up all the parts at the moment, I think a good carb is the secret to a more relaible engine or switching to EFi.

I won't be switching to EFi though, I worked at PCS for sometime but i'm no mechanic (many qualifications in engineering not mechanics) although I can put an engine together no problem EFi is to complicated for me and i'm not a fan of technology :sad2:.

I like to stick with basics :)
Basic is good but when you get out of there range they do more bad then good 20 psi is a bit to far for the crab to handle you need to be 100% on the tune of it or you are asking for problems

[BILLY-R5GTT]

Just out of curiosity how much is an EFi conversion on a GTT?

[danielmk323]

Just out of curiosity how much is an EFi conversion on a GTT?
depends man on the ecu u use and the plenum u will make they are the big money tings but if some one ask me the 1st upgrade he need on the c1j i don't say bigger turbo or cams ect i say efi is the 1st ting to make for big power c1j you will see a new car totally if done correct if you on a budget don't boder the carb will be good

[TNT ANDY]

depends man on the ecu u use and the plenum u will make they are the big money tings but if some one ask me the 1st upgrade he need on the c1j i don't say bigger turbo or cams ect i say efi is the 1st ting to make for big power c1j you will see a new car totally if done correct if you on a budget don't boder the carb will be good

ECU can be done quite cheaply these days with Megga Squirt stuff an inlet plenum aint that bad either - I have a Skoda item in my garage which set me back £50 including fuel rail which would surfice.

In respect to the last comment I can't honestly say that that is accurate - TNT Ross is killing me power - wise and he's still on a carb with mappable ignition. He likes to let me know :laugh:

EFI really makes the car more tuneable, and yes big power can be had on both set ups, but it is a lot easier to tune the fuel and ignition with it. Depends what you want really.

I'm really impressed with the BHP figures everyone who has an F or R lump stuck in the front of there cars, but for me, it's seldom used car which when I do drive it it (usually, it's being a bit of a pig ATM) gives me great pleasure even being a lowly 1.4cc 8 valve push-rod engine.

[TNT ANDY]

Basic is good but when you get out of there range they do more bad then good 20 psi is a bit to far for the crab to handle you need to be 100% on the tune of it or you are asking for problems

Can't agree with that at all - there have been loads of cars running 20+ for years on here without issue. Sorry to be controversial.

[danielmk323]

Can't agree with that at all - there have been loads of cars running 20+ for years on here without issue. Sorry to be controversial.
No need to be sorry mate my point was 20 psi on carb can be but you need to be 100% of the tune and more up you go on boost more hard is to get it good and power wise you will not make optimal power whit the carb and standard ignition and so is a waste of money to buy steel liners better of upgrading the fuel and ignition you can have forge internals and if the fuel and ignition are not good you will destroy them in a sec and lets say it on a well set carb for 20 psi for daily drive go to work ect will be a pig on fuel :sad: the best ting of efi is duel map i have 1 map set at 1 bar the 2nd one at 24 on racing fuel one click and boom :wasntme: