Boost Controller and "t" piece

[s3irios]

Hello everyone, i know this is a topic covered enough, although i only have a "security" question. I also know that adjusting pressure from actuator is best and safest, BUT my actuator goes up to 14 psi so it needs changing. Atm thought of testing a boost controller.

I've bought the classic chinese one shown below.
Connected everything fine but the boost was then uncontrollable and always full (the most i let it go was 19 psi where my fuel is safe too).I thought maybe i had to unwind the actuator, unwinded it fully but still same.
Then checked the t piece, inside in the carb side it has a small ball and a spring that holds it in place against the other side (actuator). Whatever i tried doing boost was always full.
Then i just removed the ball and the spring from the t piece, winded the actuator a bit again, and everything was ok. I'm now able to adjust boost from 8 psi and above. I now have it at approximately 16 psi.
As i said fueling is checked through aem gauge , BUT is it safe to use the t piece without the ball inside?

Sorry for the long post!:agree:

[SirSamuelOfBuca]

I was gonna get this one but got a simpler one in the end.

Have you got it connected up ok? The carb shud be going in to it where the ball bearing is so it pushes it down when the pressure builds up it pushes it down.

The tighter it is the higher the boost.

Sorry if i am teaching you to suck eggs!

[s3irios]

haha no worries mate, when i opened the t piece the spring was on the nipple pushing the small ball tight in the hole in the center towards the side of the actuator.
At this time i was unable to adjust the boost and it was max. oonly when i removed the ball i was able to adjust the pressure. Know it's weird:wasntme:

[Romil Davda]

The bit of kit you have has been put together as product, I would not advise using the kit other than as designed.

I was going to suggest you got the pipes in the wrong way? (i.e. swap the pipes going into the boost controller) The arrow is the direction of the flow or air, so this should go to the wategate/actuator.

[SirSamuelOfBuca]

The bit of kit you have has been put together as product, I would not advise using the kit other than as designed.

I was going to suggest you got the pipes in the wrong way? (i.e. swap the pipes going into the boost controller) The arrow is the direction of the flow or air, so this should go to the wategate/actuator.

This. sounds like you have it back to front :confused:

[s3irios]

Ok so i found the picture below. The spring goes in first then the ball. THey had it in the way around... Oh well typical chinese assemblement of mock-off products :P

Going to try this way and report back just for general knowledge. Ty all for help! :)

[Romil Davda]

This. sounds like you have it back to front :confused:

lol no mate... I've been playing around with actuators, boost controllers and dump valves over the last few weeks. If only my problems were this simple!

[SirSamuelOfBuca]

i mean his sounds back to front yours is how its done! :)

[Romil Davda]

i mean his sounds back to front yours is how its done! :)

LMAO :agree: - It's been a long day!

[SirSamuelOfBuca]

Haha very long like everyday!!!

[Brigsy]

If it works fine without the ball and spring in dont worry about it. Its only a bleed valve;)

[Phoenix Autosport]

the ball and spring is just a cheap way to do a non return valve so that muck doesnt get sucked in when you let off the throttle ;)
it will appear to work the same without but its best to have it in there

[s3irios]

Cheers guys.
Well no luck still. I replaced the ball and spring the correct way, and it had always max boost, seems that the balls doesn;t let air to pass at all.
Removed it again and from then boost is uncotrollable again but stable at 15 psi. I wind the controller full in (closed) same. I undind it fully (open-leaking air) same maybe with very little difference like hlaf psi more.

What i forgot to metion is that i use the boost controller as an in-car controller. Everyone i see with this particular controller, they leave it to the engine bay with a relatively short pipe run.

Maybe the bigger pipe run plus the tight pipes (the transparent ones used for gauges and oxygen :P) don't leave much air to leak as it should? :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

[Brigsy]

If it were mine id rip it off and set the actuator for the max boost you want to run mate :)

[s3irios]

I'm describing why i got into putting this little demon. Max actuator psi is 14.5 Gotta change it and here's not cheap at all. Just wanted to try it this way and to be honest i wanted it for 2 more reasons.
1) minimize boost when i leave the car to a garage for servicing etc
2) it looks freaqin AWSOME inside the car :wasntme:

[Romil Davda]

TBH (and I have only just learnt this), get the psi on your turbo to what you want, best if you can get the actuator to do this without a bleed valve but you’re looking at spending about £100 for a forge actuator with the correct spring installed. Once your psi is set, get the CARB sorted (along with your afr gauge of course). Once this is done, I would leave the boost as it is.

Set it up, tune it, leave as is... (this is my opinion only)

1) take it to a garage which you trust and know that the trainy mechanic wont blast it up the road...

The last thing you want to hear is "bloody hell mate, your cars quick init", I just had to turn the other cheek and not respond!

2) fit your incar boost thingy, you dont have to connect it up! (just remember, when you decide to remove it, you'll be left with a hole)

[s3irios]

That's the way i dealt with the car and boost till now. Seeing i can lift th boost up as my fueling is capable of hadling it thought of doing it. As i said actuator had different plans plus wanted a way of upping the boost a bit for the moment without having to think to spend more money as the last 2 months alone i've spent almost 1,5k.
I agree with you it's just that it shouldn't be such a big issue adjusting n' using a darn bleed valve :sad2: . And as i saw today the issue is that i actually need a second one too in order to get past the 16 psi barrier of the controller. Ofc that's a big no-no as i already had enough trouble with this one.
About the garages u mentioned... I've tried almost all on a 15 km radius from me as i've been playing with cars the last 12 years, and still i can't find one that i can rely on. I don't want to mention most of the looks and expressions i get at most garages. "oh no an old 23 year old car has come to my shop for attention. G T F O from here"
:laugh::eek::laugh:

[SirSamuelOfBuca]

hmm is it the standard t2 actuator you are using?

if so have you got it setup to using just one port in to the actuator?

[Romil Davda]

And as i saw today the issue is that i actually need a second one too in order to get past the 16 psi barrier of the controller.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TURBOSMART-PERFORMANCE-PRODUCTS-BOOST-TEE-SLEEPER-TURBO-BOOST-CONTROLLER-NEW-/251111380214?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a776794f6

Great bit of kit, i got this on my skline (or did have untill I pinched it for the R5), can bleed from 1psi upto 30psi... The newer ones go up to 40psi :ashamed:

[s3irios]

I got a Garrett T25 it has an actuator with only one port. ;)
I guess if i don't try using it for in-car and place it in the engine bay it will be ok, or better, but damn it it looks so cool :wasntme:

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg96/s3irios/IMAG0033.jpg