Big boost R5 For sale £6500

[Jonnykane]

First post!

Renault 5 gt turbo.
This car is not for the faint hearted. Running a standard compression set up and big boost this car moves with responsive bottom end, low lag and up to 31 psi of boost this car shifts.
Running a less powerful engine and smaller turbo this car dyno'd at 220 bhp and would hit over 130 quite easily.
Full spec.
Engine
1.4 K-Tec racing engine, running hybrid BB tuning 330R roller bearing turbo with strengthened Garret housing. T5 actuator. Fully forged bottom end, machined crankshaft, (con-rods, pistons), standard compression pistons, steel liners, K-Tec 285 cam, gas flowed head, port matched, k-tec head gasket, up rated pushrods, valve springs and valves on a multi-angle set-up. Polished inlet manifold and group A carb with oversized jet. Tubular turbo manifold with 2.5 inch turbo elbow, down pipe and tiger side exit exhaust. Front mounted intercooler, mocal oil cooler with braided oil pipes, K-Tec radiator. Stainless steel boost pipes with twin Group A dump valves. Viper air filter. Samco water, oil and vacuum hoses. K-Tec polished Header tank, swirl pot, oil catch tank, brake reservoir cover, rocker cover and turbo heat shield. Up rated starter motor, alternator and engine mounts. High flow fuel pump. Standard gear box with group N clutch. In-car adjustable boost running from 14psi up to 31 psi. At the moment this is running 21 psi, Safe but effective.
Body
K-Tec racing front and back bumper. Carrisma spoiler. Tarmac side skirts and arches. Morrette twin headlight conversion. Fibre glass bonnet with clio 16v vent. Sprayed in one off black to purple pearl.
Suspension, brakes and wheels
Avo coilovers (fully adjustable), 16" OZ super turrismo alloys. stainless steel front strut brace. (also have stainless steel rear strut but not fitted). Braided brake lines, K-Tec big brake package with drilled disc all round and red stuff pads.
Interior
6 point sparco role cage. Cobra Suzuki buckets with Sparco 6 point harness's. Astra GTE digital dash. Racex digital gauges (boost, oil pressure and water temp). B&M short shifter gear stick. Leather gater. Sparco steering wheel. Flooring and boot is light weight alloy checker plating
Summary
0-60 is sub 5 seconds and a rough top end of 140.
There is a slight spot of rust on the driver's side door. I have had an estimate to repair all paintwork and this is coming in at around £250.
This car has over £35k of receipts and is basically a track car built for the road. All work has been done by professionals. For insurance purposes this car has been valued at over £20,000 and selling purposes I have been told I should be looking between £8k and £12k.
Reason for sale is relocation and family commitments.
This is an ideal toy for someone wanting something ridiculously fast but with low insurance costs. Handles extremely well and gives you scary acceleration. Ideal for days at the drag strip and can be a lot of fun when driven correctly.
No test pilots. You will not drive this car until money has been exchanged. If you are wanting to come for a test drive then I will be driving due to insurance and nature of the car but once experienced you will want to buy!!!!!!!

Pics on request

[matty j]

Wasn't this on eBay yesterday? Think I seen the pic but would be worth putting pics up

[car.crash]

It's like all the tuning catalogues under 1 bonnet.

[Penfold aka The Dealer]

Insurance value of over £20K............ I call BS!!

T2's would be insured for this much, but a GTT..... No way.

£6,500 for a car that needs paintwork & has rust showing (where else is it hiding i wonder)

Good luck with the sale..... Sort the paint work out & lower the price (a lot) to get a sale is my serious advise

Here is the advert on pistonheads...
http://pistonheads.com/sales/3984895.htm

& here is my thread i started when it was up for sale att £8,500
http://rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=24953

[THE MASTER]

go on penfold you know you wonna own that beast :laugh::laugh::laugh:

[LiamR]

Can anyone else see the cuckoo perched on the spoiler in his pics??

It must be getting ready to fly to cuckoo land...along with his valuation!!:p

[chris]

It's like all the tuning catalogues under 1 bonnet.

Bloody hell car crash that means urs is worth 10 grand lol

[Matt Cole]

See my post number 17 of Penfolds thread!:sad2:

[SCHWARTZ]

& here is my thread i started when it was up for sale att £8,500
http://rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=24953[/QUOTE]

Can't believe its even too expensive for raidergtt:wasntme:

[Slammed 66]

Somebody please go view this car and get the owner to take you on a 1/2 hour test drive at 31psi. :jerkoff:

Ross

[matty j]

It's a bargain for someone who hasn't got a clue and plenty of cash to spunk away ........... Ali g?

But then the purchaser could break it and make 20k :p :rolleyes:

[westy94]

Ha ha what a dreamer? Lol

[r5_scotty]

:eek: sh*t me! is he sure! hold on this is good! means myn is worth more than i thought !:laugh: lol he needs to rethink this lol

[5alldaway]

if he can film it doing the 140mph i will buy it off him :)

[Penfold aka The Dealer]

Just out of interest what do people think its worth?

Personally asking price £3k, accept over £2500....

[dangerous dave]

The sellers paid his £25 membership fee and can try sell it for a 2 million pounds for all I care...

Good luck, you'll need it...

My advice, break it because no one will pay more than £2500 and they will only pay that to break it..

[Bigfoot]

My advice, break it because no one will pay more than £2500 and they will only pay that to break it..

Im struggling to see even 2.5k worth of parts on there, let alone go 4k to make it even worthwhile breaking the parts if you pay for £2.5k

As said 2.5k to 3k as you say, rust, damaged items, not sure what kind of track road car with that kit on :sad2: wind break is more like it, definately wont be the fastest thing out there and doubt 31psi is doing much even if you managed to fuel up to that.

[philg]

Good luck :coffee:

[TOMTOM]

It's a weapon alrite.lol:D oh dear.

[jesus in the seat of a 5]

"this car is not for the faint hearted", my intrest allways stops there...:laugh:, to be fair it doesnt look awfull, not my thing at all but come on this is rtoc.... flea bay....:laugh:

[r5_scotty]

least if you brought this five you could do your ironing on the spoiler while your out!:laugh:

but all joking aside everyone has different taste. if we all done the same thing it would be very boring!
i rekon for 2.5k someone would have it. best off on ebay i think.

o and does he have paperwork to prove the insurance value? :coffee:

[frano81]

i rekon this is one of those where the wife says "you've got to sell it", and he's said, yes honey, no honey, three bags full honey! And then after six months, he'll be saying "i've no idea why i cant sell it"......

[philr5t]

My timing is ****e I should have saved the money I spent on my engine and bought this beast

[JRP]

Turn it in. Good luck, hope you sell it before the market changes, might advertise mine in this case.

[Gttnutter]

2k is all its worth with the damage.

[D4WNO]

Hi there, could you please edit your thread title as per this sticky at the top of the forum? http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=37 (http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=37)

[Jonnykane]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Right Everyone, Just to get things straight. It's not myself that valued it. In order to get full insurance on this I had to get it valued by 2 independant insurance companies, both saying it would take over £20k to rebuild (parts, labour). At that its under direct replacement at £14k. Thats price back if the car was written off. The thought has crossed my mind!!!!!!! r5 scotty, paperwork is with it!!
Regarding the damage its more or less touch up on the door. I could source you a door and get the paint, basically I just cant be arsed to have it done myself or even do it myself. You wouldn't even notice it if you wasn't looking for at but I took the courtesy of telling people cos it is there. The chassis is solid and all panels perfect. And when ever I take it out it gets more or less stripped down at the beginning of the year and again at the end and checked over making sure everything is structurally sound. Breaks, suspension is all brand new. The car had the engine put in around 18 months ago and has been driven maybe 2 or 3 times since then, when purchased I wasn't happy with the build quality on this so had it stripped down again and rebuilt making sure everything was done to the best possible standard. I do second the comments made bout K-tec. When its out it is driven at 14 psi, when i'm having a play about in it then 21psi and for track purposes it does run at 31psi but obviously if you guys had actually run one at that you'd know yourself your looking at a quarter mile before shutting it down. Thats it, seems pointless but fun if you pick your moments. This does not get hammered. I respect it too much for that and thats why I said no one to drive it before some money is exchanged cos guaranteed you always get some dick trying his luck in something like this and to say the mrs cant even press the clutch down and turn the steering wheel when its parked up what you expect!!!!!! Anyone that knows 5 turbo's then i'd be happy to let you out in it.

[Adey aka Ewok]

5er says it wont last 4 full bore quarter mile runs at 31psi

[philr5t]

What has been done to the engine mate any mods

Cheers Phil

Sorry mate just seen the spec on the first thread apologise :agree:

[Jonnykane]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

who knows how many quarter mile runs i'll get at that. someone earlier was saying its high compression which can understand at that your all thinking that then it'll blow, its just standard compression. With the old block that was low compression I got a full summer out of it running 31psi and then it was one night I was racing an M3 and it blew the head gasket but I new mysefl I was pushing it and i'd run it over nearly a mile on and off. I know the bottom end will take it, top end, well you all know what they're like. All i can say is that its been well looked after, dont see many this clean and when it comes to running, its warmed up for a good hour, even looking at 15 min just ticking over before I even move it, everything is checked during this that its running right. Oil and water is always getting checked before and after running and it gets a full oil change bout every thousand miles, its just had one done and i'd say its probably only done around 700 miles since the engne had been put in, when I run it I run for short blasts and then cooled correctly. When its turned down and running 14 on low and 21 on high it runs all day long giving it correct cooling between opening it up, sure you all know its all about the cooling with these.

Btw, thanks to everyone regarding comments on price, to tell the truth I wasn't sure what to put it up for, speaking to people and lookin at guys on pistonheads having standard 5's with a bigger turbo and the intercooler tampered with selling them at 3k then i thought the price on this wouldn't be so bad, at the end ofthe day the engine itself cost 4k and like i said its done about 700 miles!! you never know what rich kids are looking on pistonheads!!!

I'm open to offers, i've got all receipts and if it doesn't go soon i'm going to start breaking it.

[Josie172cup]

I think this this guy deserves a medal, obviously not for the car. In my opinion (which is all it is) checkerplate aluminium is the chaviest material to use on a car. This car may as well have a full burberry paint job and a photo of a staffy on the bonnet.

Anyway getting back to the point. Jonny has had to read through endless posts of folk slagging off his car and has kept his calm and even reposted.

Good on you Jonny

Shame on you RTOC :tuttut: :p

[kentraider]

if u do break it...first dibs on the cage..an the forged bottom end too....;-);-)

[Big Steve - Raider]

Anyway getting back to the point. Jonny has had to read through endless posts of folk slagging off his car and has kept his calm and even reposted.

Good on you Jonny

Shame on you RTOC :tuttut: :p

:agree::agree::agree: I second that Josie!! Good on you Jonny for rising above the criticism & not having a rant back!!!

Everyone's got an opinion & they don't always agree with yours.

Good luck with the sale/breaking whatever you decide! :niceone:

[Mart]

I'll 3rd that :agree:

And people wonder why rtoc member numbers are dwindling... :rolleyes:

[Penfold aka The Dealer]

Johny, if you do break it you will mostly likely get the money your after for the car.....

& no doubt a fair chunk of that pretty quickly... A car like yours appeals to a very limited market now days as most people are after the oe looks etc...

Good luck with the sale/breaking :agree:

[SirSamuelOfBuca]

how you set it up to fuel at 3 different boost pressures?

[Jonnykane]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Well SirSami, That my friend is a pain in the arse. As you know under fueling and over fueling can cause serious issues, engine running seriously hot and over detonation in the cylinders. Luckily having the car for so long I've become wise of this and generally take it and have it set up, depending on what i'm taking it out for. At the end of the day whats a hundred quid when i've spent so much on it. Also when running it at 31psi I have the timing altered so it revs a little higher, power band is higher. At the end of the day I'm not a mechanic, I leave that to the professionals. And no that doesn't mean i send it to K-Tec for the comedians in the room which i've noticed half you guys are actually ktr gear anyway!

[Jonnykane]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

As all you guys are probably wondering why the kit, spoiler, bits and bats.

The car was originally built in 2003/2004, when the BB Tuning/K-tec/Carrisma kinda phase/look was in, big spoilers, fat bumbers and being like 20yr old with a load of money to blow, well what you expect.
I stripped the car right down to a shell, it has had everything replaced, demon tweeks must have had a right christmas party when they saw my account balance.

It originally had a tarmac kit on and I wanted to keep the side skirts and arches and then give it a little face lift, at that time everyone was going badboy and then fat bumbers and i didn't totally wanna go with this theme, twin heads hadn't been done for a while so why not, the rest i've already explained earlier. Lightweight checker plate, well its easy to keep clean and with the stuff i've used, no expense spared its actually pretty light. I understand it would be lighter with nothing in it but i wanted it to look tidy. Seats and cage, you see so many with a pointless rear cage so i decided to go for the full lot, stiffens up the full car and trust me the handling is so much better. Even lads with impreza's and evo's have said its on par with them. It really has made a difference. Seats and harness wise. I've always seen them with either leather interior or the clubman stylle seats, so why not push the boat out and six point harness's, well what else would go with the seats. Regarding the digidash and dials. I already had a digidash and to get exact reading on the engine temps/pressure/boost then digital is better than anything else so why not keep with the theme. And down to colour i was told no one could do me a black pearl/flip, so i had the colour mixed myself and in the summer you'll be able to tell why.

I fully understand times have moved on and to tell the truth i'd love to bring it back up to date. I know for a fact its got a lot of potential but I dont have the time or the money, let someone else have a go at it, by the sounds of things putting it back to the original body is the way to go.

You see so many people these days buying an engine/block for what, grand and then piling money into it (philr5t what did you spend on yours???????). turbo (grand), cooling(grand), even the exhaust for a full system(grand) then you got dressing and then a shell for around the same and then piling more in on paint, kit, interior, wheels, suspesion, brakes. If you get the correct gear it does make that difference. why not buy something with a more or less brand new engine, solid shell and running gear and all it needs is a new outfit/kit and you got yourself a nice 5. I bet half the guys on here have spent a fortune on there's and dont like to admit it and the only reason they criticise is that they dont like to admit it to themselves how much money they've put into it, either that or the mrs will see the post and go mad at them or they've bought parts from a scrappy and just bolted em on and never looked at going the whole hog and doing it properly. If you was to try it yourself with time and money you'd be looking in excess of £10k/£15k in just parts. Hell just for the tyres i bet you'd pay nearly a grand!!!!!!


Just to point out what i'm getting at with the above and the whole critism part which alot i've not ignored guys. Penfold, your on a renault TURBO owners club site, commitee member and secretary (isn't that a girls job) and your not even running a turbo!!!!!!!!!!! only kidding dude but you know what I mean, where all here cos we have a passion for 5's. The shape the power, the legend it was and still is!!!!

[LiamR]

Jonny - I take back what I said and apologise.

I saw the low number of posts you had made and thought you had joint just to sell your car at an inflated price.

U do seem like a nice bloke and good luck selling the car. But like others have said, sadly you will prob get more money breaking it up.

Why not keep it, sell the bling bits and make it oe :agree:

[markey b]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

As all you guys are probably wondering why the kit, spoiler, bits and bats.

The car was originally built in 2003/2004, when the BB Tuning/K-tec/Carrisma kinda phase/look was in, big spoilers, fat bumbers and being like 20yr old with a load of money to blow, well what you expect.
I stripped the car right down to a shell, it has had everything replaced, demon tweeks must have had a right christmas party when they saw my account balance.

It originally had a tarmac kit on and I wanted to keep the side skirts and arches and then give it a little face lift, at that time everyone was going badboy and then fat bumbers and i didn't totally wanna go with this theme, twin heads hadn't been done for a while so why not, the rest i've already explained earlier. Lightweight checker plate, well its easy to keep clean and with the stuff i've used, no expense spared its actually pretty light. I understand it would be lighter with nothing in it but i wanted it to look tidy. Seats and cage, you see so many with a pointless rear cage so i decided to go for the full lot, stiffens up the full car and trust me the handling is so much better. Even lads with impreza's and evo's have said its on par with them. It really has made a difference. Seats and harness wise. I've always seen them with either leather interior or the clubman stylle seats, so why not push the boat out and six point harness's, well what else would go with the seats. Regarding the digidash and dials. I already had a digidash and to get exact reading on the engine temps/pressure/boost then digital is better than anything else so why not keep with the theme. And down to colour i was told no one could do me a black pearl/flip, so i had the colour mixed myself and in the summer you'll be able to tell why.

I fully understand times have moved on and to tell the truth i'd love to bring it back up to date. I know for a fact its got a lot of potential but I dont have the time or the money, let someone else have a go at it, by the sounds of things putting it back to the original body is the way to go.

You see so many people these days buying an engine/block for what, grand and then piling money into it (philr5t what did you spend on yours???????). turbo (grand), cooling(grand), even the exhaust for a full system(grand) then you got dressing and then a shell for around the same and then piling more in on paint, kit, interior, wheels, suspesion, brakes. If you get the correct gear it does make that difference. why not buy something with a more or less brand new engine, solid shell and running gear and all it needs is a new outfit/kit and you got yourself a nice 5. I bet half the guys on here have spent a fortune on there's and dont like to admit it and the only reason they criticise is that they dont like to admit it to themselves how much money they've put into it, either that or the mrs will see the post and go mad at them or they've bought parts from a scrappy and just bolted em on and never looked at going the whole hog and doing it properly. If you was to try it yourself with time and money you'd be looking in excess of £10k/£15k in just parts. Hell just for the tyres i bet you'd pay nearly a grand!!!!!!

And the biggest joke, penfold, your on a renault TURBO owners club site, and your not even running a turbo!!!!!!!!!!!

ouch with the personal digs! anyone wanna buy my orange one for £6495? :laugh:

[Penfold aka The Dealer]

Haha, your right I dont own a turbo atm... But had over 20 in 10 years...

As said good luck selling the car......

[Jonnykane]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Markey b, nice motor mate, go on, honestly, what would you put that up for if you was to sell it???????

[Mart]

Haha, your right I dont own a turbo atm...

Yeah, shame on you. You should've bought the Evo... :wasntme:

[Jonnykane]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Penfold, cheers mate, and sorry bout the dig. Like i said i was only having a giggle, did actually think bout doing that conversion myself :agree:

[rs250nut]

Most people on this forum would have had a car like yours a one point, with big body kits, big boost etc and because it does not conform with the current "O.E" trend people will take the Michael. It's only a matter of time before it all comes round again, because a few members started putting their cars back to factory condition others followed, the same will eventually happen with this sort of build, heck if everyone was the same in this world it would be a boring place to be.

[markey b]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Markey b, nice motor mate, go on, honestly, what would you put that up for if you was to sell it???????

enough to buy an E46 M3 :agree:

[soapymech]

Most people on this forum would have had a car like yours a one point, with big body kits, big boost etc and because it does not conform with the current "O.E" trend people will take the Michael. It's only a matter of time before it all comes round again, because a few members started putting their cars back to factory condition others followed, the same will eventually happen with this sort of build, heck if everyone was the same in this world it would be a boring place to be.:agree:personaly i find a standard 5 a boring place to be but each to there own!

[Jonnykane]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Rs250nut, like your style. partly why the thing got built, saying that i wanted something a little different hence not following the full trend. tarmac skirts, k-tec bumbers, carrisma spoiler, 16v bonnet vent and twin heads, taken the best looking items at the time) and it doesn't actually look out of place for that era.

Fact is you see a load of 5 turbo's drive past, which one stands out from the crowd?the one thats different. Which car is it most people go see at shows? the one running stupid power and thats had that little more done to it than any others. Most lads have gone for jap cars these days and why's that? its all the same argument. People follow cos they dont have idea's themselves, but then you do something a little different and people will jump on you cos you've actually looked outside the box.

[Jonnykane]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

soapymech, yellow spec, think thats the spec of the spare engine. thats pretty old school aint it??? and by the way, fat arches, love it :agree:

[Big Steve - Raider]

But had over 20 in 10 years......

20 In 10 Months more-like! :rolleyes: ;)

[Penfold aka The Dealer]

20 In 10 Months more-like! :rolleyes: ;)

Nope last 10months has been 4...;):D

[soapymech]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

soapymech, yellow spec, think thats the spec of the spare engine. thats pretty old school aint it??? and by the way, fat arches, love it :agree:thanks i can say i get loads of attention in this and it realy stands out against the standard look, im kind of the same thinking as you i just wanted somthing different but didnt want to stray to far from standard colour, features and engine. my engine is around 12000 miles old and still going strong:devil: i have hand on heart no regrets:smokin:

[car.crash]

I think you should keep it and come to some meets. You seem a sound bloke with a minted car. Stay in the club dude :)

[chris]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Rs250nut, like your style. partly why the thing got built, saying that i wanted something a little different hence not following the full trend. tarmac skirts, k-tec bumbers, carrisma spoiler, 16v bonnet vent and twin heads, taken the best looking items at the time) and it doesn't actually look out of place for that era.

Fact is you see a load of 5 turbo's drive past, which one stands out from the crowd?the one thats different. Which car is it most people go see at shows? the one running stupid power and thats had that little more done to it than any others. Most lads have gone for jap cars these days and why's that? its all the same argument. People follow cos they dont have idea's themselves, but then you do something a little different and people will jump on you cos you've actually looked outside the box.

Guess what your saying is diffrent strokes for diffrent folkes lol should take it to national day it is old school looking i would love to see it up close it aint my thing but it aint my car lol i am doing mine oe on outside but not cos i am following its just the way i roll lol :smokin:

[SirSamuelOfBuca]

I saw you put this up for sale ages ago. its a shame you will struggle to sell with all the body kit. If it was standard bodykit you would probably sell it in 5seconds :/ :(

Gl mate

[Josie172cup]

Its the spoiler that makes it look over the top. Try looking at it again and imagine the spoiler wasnt there. it looks pretty tidy, certainly better than mine :cry:

[Jonnykane]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

I've actually got a cosworth spoiler for it that'll go straight on, dont know if you've seen them, little bit bigger than standard but then has a smaller version of the whale tail that sits half way down the rear window. Think i mentioned before thats going with it too.

[phase i 16 v turbo]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

I've actually got a cosworth spoiler for it that'll go straight on, dont know if you've seen them, little bit bigger than standard but then has a smaller version of the whale tail that sits half way down the rear window. Think i mentioned before thats going with it too.

Cosworth spoiler? Which one? They are very heavy.

[Jonnykane]

basically a miniture whale tail but designed the 5 turb, sits low at the back of the car, not big at all, think it came part of the tarmac kit

[Trevhib]

:scared: Not sure that will add anything.

[Ian S]

The problem you've got here Jonny is that you're a new kid and are talking to older combat hardened troops many of whom have clocked up a lot of race track laps or / and 1/4 miles passes or /and years at 7500rpm on B roads and know the score with engines and most everything else to do with making a 5GTT fast and driving it fast.

I think you've not yet had a fast 5. My 5 with it's nearly standard but correctly tweaked engine and 24psi would most likely be making more power and torque than whatever you think yours is. I barely spent anything to get there and many of the people here are the same as mine.

Your sales spiel and claims do not impress us at all and only serve to illustrate your lack of experience, how little you know about 5's and how far you've yet to travel to catch us up.

Welcome to the RTOC. :) Please read the FAQ, the articles, the buyers guide and be guided by the many people here who know what they're talking about :)

Or, are you just wanting to sell the car and move on?

[kentraider]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

I've actually got a cosworth spoiler for it that'll go straight on, dont know if you've seen them, little bit bigger than standard but then has a smaller version of the whale tail that sits half way down the rear window. Think i mentioned before thats going with it too.

im not sure who makes it but are you talking about a 3 piece spoiler...like the old rs 500??

[Slammed 66]

The problem you've got here Jonny is that you're a new kid and are talking to older combat hardened troops many of whom have clocked up a lot of race track laps or / and 1/4 miles passes or /and years at 7500rpm on B roads and know the score with engines and most everything else to do with making a 5GTT fast and driving it fast.

I think you've not yet had a fast 5. My 5 with it's nearly standard but correctly tweaked engine and 24psi would be making more power and torque than whatever you think yours is. I barely spent anything to get there and many of the people here are the same as mine.

Your sales spiel and claims do not impress us at all and only serve to illustrate your lack of experience, how little you know about 5's and how far you've yet to travel to catch us up.

Welcome to the RTOC. :) Please read the FAQ, the articles, the buyers guide and be guided by the many people here who know what they're talking about :)




Or, are you just wanting to sell the car and move on?


:goodpost:

Sorry but I couldn't agree more. Strip it for bits and hope for 2k at best or try your luck on eBay with a 99p start and see what it goes for.

Have you got any timing slips for it at all? I'm honestly not trying to be harsh but I'm afraid you don't come accross as being that knowledgable with regard to Renault 5s. Neither am I really but I've had my fair share of them over the last 13 years and have the cracked liners to prove how well over 30psi suits an engine.

Genuinely i wish you good luck with it but please wake up and smell the coffee and adjust your pricing. I really can't imagine who'd pay a grand for cooling (sic) and a grand for an exhaust.

As I said best of luck :agree:

Ross

[5alldaway]

The problem you've got here Jonny is that you're a new kid and are talking to older combat hardened troops many of whom have clocked up a lot of race track laps or / and 1/4 miles passes or /and years at 7500rpm on B roads and know the score with engines and most everything else to do with making a 5GTT fast and driving it fast.

I think you've not yet had a fast 5. My 5 with it's nearly standard but correctly tweaked engine and 24psi would be making more power and torque than whatever you think yours is. I barely spent anything to get there and many of the people here are the same as mine.

Your sales spiel and claims do not impress us at all and only serve to illustrate your lack of experience, how little you know about 5's and how far you've yet to travel to catch us up.

Welcome to the RTOC. :) Please read the FAQ, the articles, the buyers guide and be guided by the many people here who know what they're talking about :)

Or, are you just wanting to sell the car and move on?

couldnt agree more really

as for the spoiler i think ive seen those floating about, think its a prima racing jobbie

[Jonnykane]

not been funny but i've been stripping down and building 5's for around 9/10 years now, just cos i've never bothered joining a club means nothing!!!!!
yeah you can get the same power but look at things like reponse, lag, running time, over revving, all little things which when you put them all together make that difference. More cooling means longer you can run it at full bore without the head giving way, then you look at over heating in the cylinders and melting a piston. over revving causing you to bend a valve or spin a shell on your bottom end. Just timy little things you dont think of but when it happens you wish you'd taken that step before hand to stop it!!!!!!!

[Ian S]

little things you dont think of but when it happens you wish you'd taken that step before hand to stop it!!!!!!!Which is why being with a club like this is not nothing :) It's all been done so many times you can ask first and not make the same mistakes, learn the easy way not the hard way. Learn a ton of stuff you'd never think of or figure out for yourself. Unless you read all the books, go and get a variety of degrees in automotive engineering, science, electonics, etc, and 100 years of experience under your belt.

All that stuff in your post are merely the simple basics that many people here all know :) .

Many of us chose a bigger turbo, higher boost and the consequence of more lag. It's worse around the suburbs and great on the open road and lanes.

Over revving is a nonsence statement. The limit with C1J appears to be lack of oil delivery and consequent ovalising of the camshaft bearings at 9000 plus revs. Also the rods come off too often.

Charge cooling or water cooling? We know all about both of those. I manufactured thermocouples specially to give us fast enough charge temperature response times. People have been fitting low temp stats since the year dot. And the copper cored rads that leak, etc. Some people even drill a new channel and pipe work to get coolant behind chamber no. 4 as that suffers the most from piston expansion and consequent bore scoring. I had my bores honed out but a few thou to avoid this. Pressurised the crank case a bit above 18psi but that's the lesser evil.

Melting piston crowns!! Who does that? Well Scoff did a bit but the C1J's he works on are making 450bhp or so now. His 2 litre is making 700 or so.

You didn't mention det'ing, the main problem with turning up the boost. Did you know about that issue? Do you have an AFR gauge plumbed in? Know your charge temps? How much advance do you use? Do you adjust the timing sensor? Swap the wires? Use water injection? The water gave some people 3 extra psi before det'ing? Did your better charge cooling mean you could get another psi or two?

Carbs mods; the list is long. Some people would do dozens runs on a rolling road, small adjustment between each run.

If you look at the bottom of this article you'll see what we feel is pretty much the definitive list: http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=22002 :)

[Jonnykane]

i agree with stuff you've said, i've read manual after manual on 5's and tried and tested, for example even removing the thermostat after using a low temp, bigger cooling fans. generally bigger turbo's do mean more lag hence returning to standard compression pistons and skimming the head more to create higher compression. But then too much compression then leads to other problems. I understand you guys have all been in the business for years hence why i'm taking on board most of your comments but just cos i've signed up doesn;t mean i dont know a thing or two about the car.

And yeah i know about detonation, not setting up correctly when running, too strong or too weak a mix. when it comes to setting up like i've said in earlier posts i'm not a mechanic so i get other people to sort that out but when it comes to components then my old man used to work on a team that used to do hill climbing so when it comes to little idea's that improve the running and performance i've had a lot of imput from that. Magazine after magazine. like i said manual after manual, i've thought about water injecting the cylinders which i believe scoobi's actually come with as standard now on some models. again water cooling onto the intercooler to change air pressure. even as far as CO2 but to be wuite honest the car does what i want and it has taken just about everything thrown at it. The only other step i took was strengthen the internals and then never run it after that.

[Ian S]

With communities like this club there is a sharing of knowledge. You've tried to go it alone and have found some things for yourself. Now you're here you can share in the collective and short cut to whatever end result you're looking for.

[Jonnykane]

Just read the bottom of that thread and basically thats just standard stuff which i can promise you i tick all the boxes there and i'm sure most you guys was thinking i hope so anyway lol

[Jonnykane]

but thats the thing, i've had the result i'm after and not looking to improve anymore, its up for sale for a reason, family commitments meaning baby on the way and cant see the mrs wanting me to take the new born up the road in it. Plus I'd have to fork out on a new baby bucket!!!!!!!!!

[Mart]

i've read manual after manual on 5's and tried and tested, for example even removing the thermostat after using a low temp

Which manual told you to do that? (removing the 'stat).

[Matt@CodeRedMotorsports]

Which manual told you to do that? (removing the 'stat).

It's mentioned in one of the basic 'cup manuals' found online a couple of years ago.
I think it was translated from a French site.

[Mart]

Someone fecked up the translation then :laugh:

[Matt@CodeRedMotorsports]

Someone fecked up the translation then :laugh:

They must have fecked up the translation in the MR 276 coupe version of the cup manual too, it's mentioned in there too.:D

[lee1707]

One thing I like about this club is the support from a great wealth of people from all walks of life including young and old. As Ian has stated, many people have lots of years trying different things on a gt turbo to gain that little bit more power, better handling or go crazy.
You have to remember that these cars are 20+ years old and some have spent a lot of money on so called bolt on goodies that give 50+bhp or an abortion of a body kit that will give more downforce and grip to find out that if they had just asked a question or spoke to someone first they could of been £1000s better off instead of learning the hard way. I also took the bait back in 99 with my first 5 after paying money for a so called engine build by a previous tuning company for it to fail only a few months later. On strip down we found that all that had been changed was gaskets and bearings! Not what I had paid for.

I would hate to see this club going the same way as so many others, fair enough some people think they know everything and some actually do but do we need to take the p**s when some guy posts an ad that other laugh at.

I would say, take the information and advice that people give with a thanks and instead of what you think you know, you might even learn something. If you doubt the advice even ask the question again. Most magazines from the 1990's were full of polished bolt ons and unrealistic power outputs from someone that spent silly money with a so called tuning company to get a mug shot in fast car etc

Anyway good luck with the sale of your car and the birth of your child.

[Jonnykane]

cheers Lee :agree:

[Matt@CodeRedMotorsports]

Personally, I'd keep it.
Sorn it, pop it away under cover, get some more standard looking exterior and get it up to a less lairy look.
Then, when 'little 'un is old enough, take it to shows, drag meets etc and love it again!!

Thing is you will probably get rid of it either whole or in parts, then hanker after another later on after having a nose around or driving one.:crap:

But then agin thats me talking.....and I have tons of renault ****e stacked and stored all over the country:laugh:

[Jonnykane]

Can I just say guys (following Lee's comment), over the years i've looked at so many things yes i've been fascinated by the shiny engine bay but big power has been what i've looked at. yeah engine dressing is nice but when it comes down to the internals everything is legit. we've had the engine in bits and checked as the first engine i got (as Lee said) wasn't what it said on the tin. This possibly why i've spent so much, gone the whole hog for summat that performs well (and it does) and some of you guys might be surprised if i start bringing it along to meets, and for something that looked the part in the right era. I'm not a beginner on the modding/tuning seen. But i've never once done it for a feature, i've only ever done it for myself. I take all comments on board cos i'm not daft, you guys know your stuff and like me have a passion in the car so do your homework.

Thanks guys

[GT Josh]

Effort. If you Put as much into your kiddo as the car no doubt you'll be a good dad :)

[Mart]

They must have fecked up the translation in the MR 276 coupe version of the cup manual too, it's mentioned in there too.:D

I know, I have a copy. What I meant, is that it isn't wise advice, but guessing you know that anyway...

[Jonnykane]

Cheers Josh:agree:

[Jonnykane]

I know, I have a copy. What I meant, is that it isn't wise advice, but guessing you know that anyway...

it doesn't actually matter about the thermostat. all that does is hold the water in the head till its up to temp, take it out and you get longer warm up but better flow as the waters heating, smoother and all round better for the engine. rather than the water get up to temp and then the thermostat opening to letting the water through and then cold water entering the head again. you 'll find you get better flow too by taking it out, what does matter is having a low temp fan switch and a more powerful fan to cool it as your running!!!

[Mart]

Ok.

[Brigsy]

it doesn't actually matter about the thermostat. all that does is hold the water in the head till its up to temp, take it out and you get longer warm up but better flow as the waters heating, smoother and all round better for the engine. rather than the water get up to temp and then the thermostat opening to letting the water through and then cold water entering the head again. you 'll find you get better flow too by taking it out, what does matter is having a low temp fan switch and a more powerful fan to cool it as your running!!!

I dont know who told you that but its a load of bs mate.

[Nottswoody]

I'm sure it says in the Haynes it essential for the 5 to run correct temps..

[Adey aka Ewok]

it doesn't actually matter about the thermostat. all that does is hold the water in the head till its up to temp, take it out and you get longer warm up but better flow as the waters heating, smoother and all round better for the engine. rather than the water get up to temp and then the thermostat opening to letting the water through and then cold water entering the head again. you 'll find you get better flow too by taking it out, what does matter is having a low temp fan switch and a more powerful fan to cool it as your running!!!

Hahahahahahahahaha

[Eugein Offord]

Ok.

:laugh:


your the best.........

[JRP]

Ok.


LOL

[Ian S]

it doesn't actually matter about the thermostat. There are three items in parallel in the cooling circuit. Main Rad, Heater Matrix, Turbo. The water pressure and flow is somewhat balanced between them.

You might reduce the water flow through the heater matrix and turbo. Then over heating the oil in the turbo and damaging it (the oil) which then can set rock hard in the turbo oil ways and damage the turbo bearings and shaft.

Also in the winter for road use without the stat in the pipe it may never warm up. The oil may be too cold, too thick and not lubricate the engine which then would be damaged.

And the rapid warm up might be important if you want to drive off straight away as your oil will stay too thick and not lube properly; see above.

I think from what you've explained any buyer on here would be wise to strip your engine and turbo check for damage.

[Alex]

This hole is getting deeper.....

[Josie172cup]

This hole is getting deeper.....

i think he needs a new shovel

[Adey aka Ewok]

All these years I thought the thermostat was a temperature regulation device, how wrong was I, I'm going to take them out of all my cars now so I can go flat out all the time

[Ian S]

A hotter engine will have closer tolerances due to all the metal expanding.

I don't know it but I expect at some level engine manufacturers allow for this in the design, expecting the gaps to bit a little wide until the designed temp has been reached.

That Renault have the oil going through the side of main rad means it's going to stabilise at about 90°C. The oil thickness will be known for that temp and allowed for in the complete design of the oil pump, pressure settings, flow from it and through the engine parts.

So even if you ran a thinner oil, having carefully looked at the data for viscosity change and, for the lower engine temp you've chosen, matched it's viscosity to what the original would have been at 90°C, you've still got wider engine tolerances to have to allow for.

You might get lucky though, with the original oil, it will be thicker at the lower temp and 'fill' the gaps a bit more. But manufacturers need long term reliability so I would expect have to know that they're doing and use maths to put the engine together rather than here-say and guesstimation. 5GTT Cup racers may only need reliability for an hour then they can take the engine apart for an inspection.

[JimGTT]

Christ!!! Just read through this ad! Since when can a guy not just advertise his car for what he thinks its worth and either sell it or have to have a rethink if he gets no interest. Instead of being slated!!!! for his views, and telling him he has not got a clue etc. A bit harsh! The club goes on about wanting new members, but how do we expect to get them if they join and all we do is give them S***. Id be asking for my money back... Weather he has paid his membership to sell or to continue to being a member, does it really matter( he has paid his membership!)

My opinion keep your views to yourselves unless asked and let people get on with selling cars!!

Rant over!

Good luck with the sale Jonny.

[Ian S]

I think quite a few people here have tried to be helpful.

We all know that just because someone spent £30k+ on their 5gtt over a period of years does not make it worth more than a few thousand. Trying to ask for several times that will always provoke a rebuttal from the 5GTT 'intelligentsia', even if it a polite one. To some extent they are protecting other members from being duped by false claims, even if the claims were not deliberately intended to mislead.

You must be aware that over the last 20 years there's been not stop nonsense from 'tuners' and their gullible clients using terms such as 'big boost'. It then and now generates rather irritated retorts. Doubly so from those once gullible victims who now know better.

[renault5gtboi]

Loving this thread :D makes me giggle

[Jonnykane]

yeah the stat is for that but if your monitoring it in a number of places you dont need it. Thats all i'm getting at, so come on guys what temp are you running your engine at i'll tell you now exactly what temp mine runs at and thats 76c and when its had a thrashing then it goes up to around 84c, water from the turbo runs a little higher but not massively, and thats it. and that was using the stat and after taking it out, after giving it some i've noticed it cools faster. Thats just what i've noticed, at the end of the day i'm not telling you all to do it, if you want to try it thats fine. still have that stat and if it seemed like it needed it i would have put it back, in the winter its never run so that answers that statement too!!!!!

[Ian S]

If you'd explained this kind of thing at the beginning it would have helped :)

After 15 minutes running my sump oil temp would stabilise at 90°C according to the Mocal oil temp gauge. Water at about that too. Over a 10 mile ragging the oil temp would reach about 112°C in the summer, IIRC. Water temp would stay about 90°C according to the OE gauge. With the low temp switch for the rad fan that water went to about 80°C or so. On a run, the rad keeps the water temp down, the fan only coming on at lower speed.

[renault5gtboi]

[QUOTE=Ian S;279022]If you'd explained this kind of thing at the beginning it would have helped :)

After 15 minutes running my sump oil temp would stabilise at 90°C according to the Mocal oil temp gauge. Water at about that too. Over a 10 mile ragging the oil temp would reach about 112°C in the summer, IIRC. Water temp would stay about 90°C according to the OE gauge. With the low temp switch for the rad fan that water went to about 80°C or so. On a run, the rad keeps the water temp down, the fan only coming on at lower spee

[Jonnykane]

as i've said before i take everything you guys say on board but likewise i've tried and tested stuff and just saying my findings too and if it works why not use it, i'm not giving anyone **** for what they're saying, i'm not saying there wrong and i'm right and thats what you should do, cos some of the things i have tried haven't worked. like i was told earier rather than finding things out for my self i should have maybe come on here before which is fair enough, as for the comments on price, thats 35k on parts and labour. 2 engines your looking around 6-8k alone if you was to buy them from a tuning firm and thats without bolt ons. i if you read it i've not once said thats what I think its worth, i've used quotes from the insurance companies saying if it was to be replicated it would cost around 20k to do, i've said over 35k in receipts, all your proving to everyone else is that you cant actually read!!!!!!!

[Jonnykane]

i dont think the engine needs stripping to say its done what, 700 miles if that, like i've said its a new evgine and not even been run yet lol and with that it sit for a good hour ticking over and gets checked making sure everything is is running before its even moved, thats the thing with it, your basically getting a new turbo and engine thats not even been touched apart from 700 miles and then an oil change

[Matt Cole]

it doesn't actually matter about the thermostat. all that does is hold the water in the head till its up to temp, take it out and you get longer warm up but better flow as the waters heating, smoother and all round better for the engine. rather than the water get up to temp and then the thermostat opening to letting the water through and then cold water entering the head again. you 'll find you get better flow too by taking it out, what does matter is having a low temp fan switch and a more powerful fan to cool it as your running!!!


Not to mention Cavitation and damge to the cylinder head!:confused:

[rs250nut]

Let's all heckle the new guy.......... Some of what this guy is saying is bs but maybe try and steer him in the right direction instead of taking the pi$$, we have all been there with k-tec this and gt tuning that, difference is at the time I doubt anyone at the time took the pi$$ because they were doing the same.

[Jonnykane]

Oooops, right, made a bit of a boo boo, i was talking to my old man bout the thermostat and yes it is in and a low temp one at that. When the engine was put in,(which i wasn't there) they took the thermostat in to fill the rad. I thought it had been running without it. As its only running in the summar i've been told it wouldn't make too much difference, yeah in the winter it would but its never run then so doesn't apply. Oh well, at least you guys got a laugh. (noticed on the pics the jubilee clip in place for the stat)

my bad :cry:

[DaveMayGTT]

I thought people wanted the price of the GTT to reflect its classic status. But every time a GTT is on here for a bit more money it gets slammed. Yet when people ask whats its worth everyone jumps in with the same answer. Whatever someones willing to pay. Surely then we have to find out what people are willing to pay without being scared of a bashing and a knowledge head to head and belittling session.

If I was you m8 I would get the car in the cars for sale non members area at a price you think is fair and see what people are willing to pay. If people are not willing to pay that price you decide what you want to do, not what others want you to do.

GL

[Trevhib]

Just seen the other, new thread locked. Not sure if that was fair because the other thread was posted in the section that's open to non-members to view and this one isn't. Isn't the guy just trying to justifiably widen his audience?

Not sure this thread should be moved to that section either (as a work around). I mean why would he want all the posts from other members cluttering his public for sale thread?

Just saying.

[markey b]

Just seen the other, new thread locked. Not sure if that was fair because the other thread was posted in the section that's open to non-members to view and this one isn't. Isn't the guy just trying to justifiably widen his audience?

Not sure this thread should be moved to that section either (as a work around). I mean why would he want all the posts from other members cluttering his public for sale thread?

Just saying.

i was thinking the same :laugh:

[Trevhib]

:agree:

I think there's an argument for posts not being allowed on public adverts other than the author and the committee.

Otherwise, on those adverts that are contentious, like this one has been, we could end up making the club look bad to the outside. Rather than just to the inside :laugh: