actuator fitting

[tom t]

i have just bought a 2nd hand bigger turbo for my car same spec as ktec 230 apparently.

its came with a cossie actuator. in the first pic. just woundering what the two small rods with the nuts on it do? and to decrease the boost do i screw the nut on the long rod closer to the actuator?

the turbo itself has still got the standard bracket for the r5 actuator. and i am confused as to how i can get this cossie actuator to fit properly.

so i was thinking maybe the two small rods are just for mounting it? and i could drill a couple of holes in the standard bracket and bolt it up. unless they are actually for adjusting boost. might get an idea of what i mean by the 2nd picture

any help much appreciated thanks

[scratcher]

the small ones will be to mount it like you said, just adjust it with the actuator rod, the shorter the rod the more boost. is the fueling set up for mega psi?

[OUTLAW]

the small ones will be to mount it like you said, just adjust it with the actuator rod, the shorter the rod the more boost. is the fueling set up for mega psi?
currently i am running around 13psi, the rod is as short as it will go, if i want to turn the boost down, how do i do that:confused:any ideas?
got a hybrid to fit but still not sure about the acuator and what psi the turbo`s set up for.....?:agree:

[Shane P]

currently i am running around 13psi, the rod is as short as it will go, if i want to turn the boost down, how do i do that:confused:any ideas?

Unwind the actuator rod

[Sy5GTT]

I've had a cossie actuator modified and fitted to a T2 bracket. I had to thread almost the whole length of the rod. Haven't fitted it yet so not sure if the boost will be set high..

[tom t]

shouldnt be to hard to mount then when i drill a couple of holes in the bracket then.

no i havent had the fueling set up. i wont run much boost untill i had this done. need to get a front mount aswell.

[Adam L]

You'll find it difficult to mount the actuator on that bracket, purely for the fact it's nearly twice the size of the stock one. To do it properly, you'll need a new bracket.

[tom t]

nytmare. was gana pm you saying ive got this turb adam. also would you have any idea to the thread of the oil feed? or any1 else? cheers

[Adam L]

I can never remember those oil feed sizes, I always have to check. There's two different types though, so that could cause a problem..

Let me find out tomorrow and i'll let you know.

[tom t]

the old turbo had an adaptor which fitted into the new one then i got a piece from pirtek from that to my new oil feed. so thats sorted cheers m8. would be handy to know the thread size though cheers.

also i managed to get the cossie actuator fitted to the turbo with the standard bracket. do they sell a proper bracket to attach the actuator to my turbo does any1 know?

i drilled two holes for the mounting studs and the actuator bolted up but it moved the rod on the piss a bit, and when i try to lower the boost the wastgate is staying open so hence reallllyyy low boost and the car sounding like a 1.0l lol.

and my m8 was thinking i could just thread the rest of the rod (also this is what Sy5GTT has told me he has done) but i think it would boost way to much.


i think i myt get away with nuts either side of the bracket to space it out though so i will give that a try. and if that doesnt work ill have to try find a proper bracket..

essaaayyyy lol

[Big Jim]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Best way to fit it (so the rod lines up properly) is to take out the two studs from the actuator, make some spacers up to sit between the bracket and the actuator and use a couple of bolts through the bracket and spacers, into the actuator body. Does that make any sense? I know a pic would be much easier but I haven't got one...

[markey b]

if ya get real stuck dude i'm only half hour down the road from ya

[tom t]

that sounds a good idea jim. do you know if the rods come out easily?

was thinking of putting my standard actuator on. but thats gana be an arse to change on the car. and i really really dont wana be taking the turbo off etc.

will take you up on that markey if i get stuck should be ok though cheers dude. might have to come and cya when its sorted ;)

[tom t]

also whats the lowest boost the cossie actuator will run? cheers

[Sy5GTT]

also whats the lowest boost the cossie actuator will run? cheers


Mine has 12psi stamped on it.

[Big Jim]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)


also whats the lowest boost the cossie actuator will run? cheers
The studs come out very easily. If they haven't got allen key holes in them then a pair of mole grips should do the job easily enough. As for boost, it depends entirely on what spring is in it, there are a few different ones and ,in my experience, they aren't marked.... Although it would seem some are :).

[tom t]

very helpfull every1 much appreciated.
yeah they have allen key holes.
also any idea where i could get some suitable rod jim? cheers:agree:

[Sy5GTT]

Heres mine on the standard T2 bracket with the rod threaded.

[tom t]

cheers 4 the pics m8. could you get a pic of which bolt holes in the turbo youve used. i think i could get it to work proerly if i moved my bracket round on the turbo but that will be an arse to do with the turbo in situ.

cheers m8.

[Ian S]

Here's mine.

Jim made the bracket for the compressor housing and the brass tubes / bolts / lengthened actuator rod.

I fitted a -12 spring that I bought from Forge. That's not 12psi. Not on the 5GTT anyway. Minimum boost was about 15psi.

Jim also bored out the two housings and put the turbo together and got it balanced.

I made the oil feed from Speedflow parts.

[Alex]

I actually wrote an article on fitting a Cosworth T3 actuator to the standard bracket - it was on the old site in the articles section.

It involved drilling the old standard actuator to free it from the bracket, and making the holes a bit bigger so you could fit a threaded rod/bolt through them and using nuts either side to space it away from the compressor housing.

I'll see if it's still on my PC at home and post it up if it's of any use?

:)

[tom t]

that looks sweeet ian. :agree:

that would be gr8 that article m8 cheers. was thinkg of using nuts to space it. rods would probally look better, but i prob wont be able to get hold of any rod.

so maybe stainless nuts will do the job:laugh:

[Ian S]

http://old.rtoc.co.uk/i/misc/btn_go_up.GIF (http://old.rtoc.co.uk/articles/default.asp?SectionID=2) Fitting a Collins T3 actuator

contributed by Alex Woolley
My standard T2 actuator wouldn’t hold 18 psi very well; this was shown up mainly on rolling roads when the boost dropped off to as low as 15 psi so I decided to buy a stronger T3 type.


I managed to find a Collins actuator very cheaply on eBay so I set about fitting it. To fit them you need to either but a new modified bracket (£15+VAT from KTR) or modify the standard one, I decided to modify the standard one. You will also need to run the ‘cup mod’ boost circuit. You may need a different wastegate adjuster but I didn’t (£25+VAT from KTR)

1, Take off the old actuator together with the bracket which is spot welded to it. It’s held on with several bolts on the compressor housing. If you have a heat shield on the turbo this will need to be removed. Take the actuator arm off the wastegate pivot, this is held on by a small circlip also remove the actuator hose.

2, Once off drill the three spot welds that hold the bracket to the actuator (be very careful if you want to keep the old actuator)! Elongate the bottom hole as shown in picture and also drill another larger hole between the 2 top holes.

3, Remove the 2 small studs on the T3 actuator and replace them with longer ones (otherwise it will foul the compressor housing)

4, Fit the bracket to the compressor housing and slide the actuator studs through the elongated holes of the bracket. Attach it by using nuts and washers on the studs giving just enough room that the actuator clears the compressor housing. See picture.

5, Fit the wastegate rod over the pivot adjusting it as necessary (I used the old T2 adjusting arm as it fitted o.k) Make sure you refit the circlip. Refit the actuator hose and make a final check everything is secured properly.

6, Take the car out and check it’s making the correct boost you want, if it’s not slacken the 2 nuts (see picture) and pull the actuator towards the front of the car (this will require effort)! And tighten the nuts in the process. If it’s making too much boost move the actuator the other way to reduce it’s preload or buy a lower rated spring which are available from Collins.



http://old.rtoc.co.uk/articles/i/autofolder/EVAFVJUZUFSFFWEVXHNI.jpg

[Alex]

Cheers Ian - saved me a job! :D

[tom t]

cheers for the pic and article wil come in very usefull.

by fitting it like that will i not need to turn the turn buckle to increase/lower boost?

just do this instead? " if it’s not slacken the 2 nuts (see picture) and pull the actuator towards the front of the car (this will require effort)! And tighten the nuts in the process. If it’s making too much boost move the actuator the other way to reduce it’s preload "

need to get round to doing it just the cars got no mot at the mo bummer

cheers

[Alex]

You can do it either way really - whichever works best for you. Doing it via the nuts just means you don't have to unclip the turnbuckle and potentially loosing the circlip! :)

[tom t]

kool. yeah that is a bit of a pain in the arse.
had to put a standard actuator on for the mo as my cossie diaphgram has split.