Adaptronic quizzeries?

[TNT ANDY]

Hi all, wondering if anyone might shed a little light on a problem I'm having. Fluffy won't start!

And I'm thinking it might have something to do with my LC-1 as in the live gauges window it is not reading anything at idle apart from a red 13.6 which is mirrored in the ecu data screen as the target afr. I'm sure the current afr used to be displayed and would match my innovative gauge in both the live gauges and ecu data screen. Can anyone shed any light on this?

Fluffy only does this when there is an event on the horizon.

[TNT ANDY]

Also, when I used to press the accelarator pedal down, the injectors used to click, it doesn't do that now. Very strange ?

[Scoff]

It wont start but it reads 13.6 at idle ? You've lost me andy ?

The target afr at idle will be 14.7:1 usually, unless your injectors/injector angle was such that we couldn't idle that lean, I can't remember ? Either way, that won't stop it from running. If the afr data is invalid the ECU will switch to open loop.

Check for spark and injector pulse. Start with the basics :)

[Scoff]

I just read your text andy, not sure when you sent it sorry, I don't pay much attention to phones :)

If the plugs are dry there is no injector pulse. Map should read 100kpa, not 100kpa at standstill. In the F2 live data window, can you see how many milliseconds of injector is being applied during cranking ? And does the RPM show something sensible while cranking ? Expect at least 150rpm.

It might also be worth re-uploading your map incase something has corrupted somewhere, but I can't imagine what.

[TNT ANDY]

Hi Scoff - there is a spark and the injectors all fire when tested from the ecu data screen. I'm not sure if they are firing when cranking or not. I checked the plugs after cranking and they where all dry. There is good fuel pressure at the FPR gauge and it smells of petrol in the garage. I'm at a bit of a loss tbh. I'll get back on it tomorrow, might just see if the fuel is getting past the fpr and go from there.

[TNT ANDY]

I just read your text andy, not sure when you sent it sorry, I don't pay much attention to phones :)

If the plugs are dry there is no injector pulse. Map should read 100kpa, not 100kpa at standstill. In the F2 live data window, can you see how many milliseconds of injector is being applied during cranking ? And does the RPM show something sensible while cranking ? Expect at least 150rpm.

It might also be worth re-uploading your map incase something has corrupted somewhere, but I can't imagine what.

I'll look at these tomorrow evening see if things look ok from what you're saying.

Cheers bud

[TNT ANDY]

It wont start but it reads 13.6 at idle ? You've lost me andy ?

The target afr at idle will be 14.7:1 usually, unless your injectors/injector angle was such that we couldn't idle that lean, I can't remember ? Either way, that won't stop it from running. If the afr data is invalid the ECU will switch to open loop.

Check for spark and injector pulse. Start with the basics :)

Sorry, that's really badly worded - it reads 13.6 static, not at idle, in red.

[Dave Reed]

Could well be fuel related.. Possibly your fpr is stuck in bypass ie flowing all the fuel back down the return line.. Or could be as simple as your return pipe has come off and the fuel is dumping on the floor???

[Dave Reed]

To add to the a above is your tps giving you a value in the windows screen?

[Tony Walker]

like said, start basic crank it and see if you have spark/fuel, crank sensor connected/good gap?

[TNT ANDY]

Hi Dave,

Yup the fuel return is good, the tps is working ok registering from 5% - 100% WOT.

[TNT ANDY]

Chris / Dave,

I put the battery on charge last night after I had give it a fair bit of stick last night. Turned it over this morning and he fired up no hesitation. he's not been out in over a week, and despite it sounding to be cranking over very well there was not enough in the battery to get him started.

Hopefully just need to keep it on trickle charge if not using it regularly (the battery is new BTW)

Thanks for your help chaps.
:agree:

[Dave Reed]

Wicked glad it was something simple :agree:

Lol I should of said about the battery, as this happened to me recently, car sounded like it was turning ove fast enough, but when I looked at the ECU the lights were going out when cranking :wasntme:

[TNT ANDY]

Wicked glad it was something simple :agree:

Lol I should of said about the battery, as this happened to me recently, car sounded like it was turning ove fast enough, but when I looked at the ECU the lights were going out when cranking :wasntme:

Ha ha - have you got an addaptronic unit in place. Mine does the same, the Led's are never overly bright.

[Scoff]

Glad it's going Andy. The lights, unless they're assigned functions, will light only dimly once the ECU is running. But, if they flash on and off as you crank the engine it means that the ECU's supply is dipping below 9v and it is resetting. :)

[markey b]

Chris / Dave,

I put the battery on charge last night after I had give it a fair bit of stick last night. Turned it over this morning and he fired up no hesitation. he's not been out in over a week, and despite it sounding to be cranking over very well there was not enough in the battery to get him started.

Hopefully just need to keep it on trickle charge if not using it regularly (the battery is new BTW)

Thanks for your help chaps.
:agree:

i bet you double and triple checked the polarity of the charger ;)

[Dave Reed]

Ha ha - have you got an addaptronic unit in place. Mine does the same, the Led's are never overly bright.


Yeah i've been running mine since early last year..

And Chris has answered my other question as to why they are not normally that bright :D

[Scoff]

Dave/Andy, you can assign functions to the LED's in the Aux out tab. Think of the LED's as additional aux outs, so you could assign one to "fuel pump" and it would light the LED when the pump was running. Or you could assign one to "coolant temp" and set a threshold so that the LED would light if coolant temp got too warm, for example. :)

[Dave Reed]

I really should read that thick thing I took the time to print of at home (the manual lol)... But I'm a man, and can work everything out by guessing :D

TBH I only noticed the LED's when I had troubles getting her up and running, well actually that's a lie my dad noticed haha..

[DaveL485]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)


Chris / Dave,

I put the battery on charge last night after I had give it a fair bit of stick last night. Turned it over this morning and he fired up no hesitation. he's not been out in over a week, and despite it sounding to be cranking over very well there was not enough in the battery to get him started.

Hopefully just need to keep it on trickle charge if not using it regularly (the battery is new BTW)

Thanks for your help chaps.
:agree:

Mine wouldn't start without a jump/boost after standing for a while, even though it would spin over. The battery + cable wasn't thick enough and the voltage drop when cranking was resetting the Adaptronic every cycle so it never got to start before resetting over and over.

Changed up for some better terminals and super-thick 35mm 240 Amp cable and it's much better now. Also fitted a cutoff on one of the terminals so I can disconnect it easily when parked up to stop current drain.

[TNT ANDY]

Glad it's going Andy. The lights, unless they're assigned functions, will light only dimly once the ECU is running. But, if they flash on and off as you crank the engine it means that the ECU's supply is dipping below 9v and it is resetting. :)

Good comment Chris - I've always thought they looked as though they where only half lit - now I know. And yes they did go on and off, despite the starter wirring round like a good un.

[TNT ANDY]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)



Mine wouldn't start without a jump/boost after standing for a while, even though it would spin over. The battery + cable wasn't thick enough and the voltage drop when cranking was resetting the Adaptronic every cycle so it never got to start before resetting over and over.

Changed up for some better terminals and super-thick 35mm 240 Amp cable and it's much better now. Also fitted a cutoff on one of the terminals so I can disconnect it easily when parked up to stop current drain.

Yup, I've installed a 2nd battery (one small racing one and a standard one) I have a cut out on the return to the normal battery and switch it out whenever I park up and let the smaller one drain. I have a problem somewhere which I'm going to get to the bottom of soon as it's bugging me, and installing a cut out is cheating. I'm draining around 4 Amps without anything turned on and no key in the ignition. I've disconnected most things and it still does it. the only way I can make it stop is by splitting the main battery lead as it comes through the dash and 1 cable goes to the starter, one goes to the alternator and another smaller 1 splices off to behind the dashboard and onto 2 smaller plug in connectors. I've eliminated almost everything that you can unplug or disconnect.

[Scoff]

Andy did you try taking the live off the starter (so starter and alt are not connected to battery) ? Guess you will have done :)

4amps is a sh1t load, so if nothing obvious is getting hot maybe something has buggered up in the heater controls (and/or its resistors in the heater box). Have you tried unplugging the heater speed control ?

[TNT ANDY]

Andy did you try taking the live off the starter (so starter and alt are not connected to battery) ? Guess you will have done :)

4amps is a sh1t load, so if nothing obvious is getting hot maybe something has buggered up in the heater controls (and/or its resistors in the heater box). Have you tried unplugging the heater speed control ?

Yes I disconnected the Starter and solenoid, and this cleared it, ie, the 4 Amp dissapeared from both the car side and the starter side, it only does it when it's reconnected. I did an insulation resistance check on the starter from +ve to ground and it was all clear. Then the next time I checked it it was going the other way, ie off down the split to behind the dash board. I've not tried the heater controls yet, I'll give that a go when I get chance. I assume 2 things:-

1- my meter is reading correctly
2- I'm checking it correctly (using a multi-meter, with the -ve lead to the battery disconected, connect the meter between the -ve terminal on the battery and the -ve lead I have disconnected.)

I'm terrible with auto electrics as most know :scratch:

[TNT ANDY]

i bet you double and triple checked the polarity of the charger ;)

:laugh: Funny for an old tart

[Dave Reed]

Yes I disconnected the Starter and solenoid, and this cleared it, ie, the 4 Amp dissapeared from both the car side and the starter side, it only does it when it's reconnected. I did an insulation resistance check on the starter from +ve to ground and it was all clear. Then the next time I checked it it was going the other way, ie off down the split to behind the dash board. I've not tried the heater controls yet, I'll give that a go when I get chance. I assume 2 things:-

1- my meter is reading correctly
2- I'm checking it correctly (using a multi-meter, with the -ve lead to the battery disconected, connect the meter between the -ve terminal on the battery and the -ve lead I have disconnected.)

I'm terrible with auto electrics as most know :scratch:


You mention you carried out an insulation resistance test, you can't carry this out on a mutli meter, you need a IR specific tester (MEGGER is a common name). Not something cheap to buy, you need a sarky mate who has access to one..

[TNT ANDY]

You mention you carried out an insulation resistance test, you can't carry this out on a mutli meter, you need a IR specific tester (MEGGER is a common name). Not something cheap to buy, you need a sarky mate who has access to one..

yup me

[Dave Reed]

Hahaha ok mate didn't know ;) same as me then..

[Os8472]

Hahaha ok mate didn't know ;) same as me then..

And me :D

[Scoff]

Andy, if you disconnected the starter main live (and hence alternator) and the drain went away then it suggests either the starter solenoid or something in the alternator's regulator is leaking to earth . But then you said you thought the current drain was via the main lead going in to the cockpit ? Strange one :)

[Pete@Backyard Racing]

Have u tried using a low amps clamp to find your parasite draw?

[TNT ANDY]

Have u tried using a low amps clamp to find your parasite draw?

Nope, I've only got an AC clamp meter, Might be interesting if you could bring one to national day and I easily get to most of the wiring as it is and I'll pop it on and see where it's going to. Actually, are clamp meters ac/dc sensitive?

Scoff - Yes it is a strange one to be sure, I'll get to the bottom of this before getting over to you to re-map after I put the cam timing right.

[TNT ANDY]

Yup I only have an AC clamp meter:(