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daveturbo
22-04-2012, 17:23
My 5 was booked in for a new screen on saturday.they came and took screen out but found some rust so i asked them to come back at a later date to re fit it so i could get all the rust sorted.iv had my mate round allday with the welder and got it all ready for paind but wondering on best way to get it blended in to origonal paint.do i just mask it off and then rub the line down with some wet and dry and then polish it out.

never done any painting before so any tips would be great.

cheers all

dangerous dave
22-04-2012, 17:41
im no painter but i believe the steps not a good thing.. i did a repair on a bumper and it looked sh1te with the step, no rubbing down would save it, but it was the splitter part so no one could see it..

i've later blown in the odd bodge and its been ok, a good painter can work pi55 it:)

daveturbo
22-04-2012, 17:52
Its only along top of screen i need to do it.all bottom and sides can be done without blending it in.

also anyone know where i can get the exact match in paint.does anywhere make it up for you if i take them something to match it to.

cheers

rew
22-04-2012, 18:34
G3 works wonders with cutting old paint to look new and blend in;)

daveturbo
22-04-2012, 18:41
Brill.is that about the jist of it.mask off roof and rest of car,paint where i need to and then polish out the step?

can i get an exact match in paint from anywhere then?or would i need to take car to painters?

cheers

gttjames
22-04-2012, 19:04
mask off as you would, but not the top roof bit and paint as normal and blow it in on roof, allow to fully dry and wet sand it back to get rid of overspray and blow in area, then polish up. If done well you wont be able to notice it

daveturbo
22-04-2012, 21:36
Brill.ill crack on and see how it goes.

cheers all

Sam Fish
22-04-2012, 22:06
it depends how good the colour match is....
You can polish the 'edge' back, but you will almost always be able to see a blurry 'join', unless the paint is from the same tin..... and mixed well :D

scratcher
22-04-2012, 23:31
I done a bit on a door and the boot on my daily.
Mask up a larger area than you want to paint and Use a fairly aggressive polish over the whole area. This gives a key for the paint and lacquer at the end.
Sand back the area to be painted so it was slightly lower, if you imagine a sorta dished area in your head with the bit being painted as the lower part. (Probably makes no sense)
Spray over the main area with primer, 2 or 3 coats is what I used. Allow it to dry and wet sand to get it nice and level.
A few layers of your color coat, spraying a little over the edge of the primered area, wet sanding at the end to remove any runs or blemishes.
Another light dusting or the colour and then lacquer, again going a bit over the edge of the color coat. Allowing 15ish minutes between coats. Wet sand and polish.

There will be better ways out there but this worked for me :)

This was the boot after. It was rubbed through to metal before froma bike rack :(

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g319/pimpscratcher/Dorry/DSCN0147-1.jpg

And the door. The corner flaked off

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g319/pimpscratcher/Dorry/DSCN0148-1.jpg

Take your time and I'm sure it'll come out well!

groky
22-04-2012, 23:42
take a part off of the car wing mirror, fuel cap or such and the paint code which will be on the chassis tag of the car will be a 3 number code in the oval on the tag.

as for blowing in its not to hard. these are just my guidelines that works for me everyone has there own way of doing this and getting a reasonably good finish.


mask off around 18 inches past where you will be painting

Paint at your normal distance of around 6 inches and fade out by moving the paint gun or aerosol further away from the work piece in an arching motion. keeping away from your solid masked line with the colour.

for the clear coat blow it past where you painted about 6-12 inches keeping away from the solid masked line again.

finish each coat with a fine coat of blending thinner or 2k thinner only where the clear coat begins to fade out so as the clear lays flat and doesnt appear to be dry and bobbly and helps to stop the milky dry edge after flattening and polishing.