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View Full Version : Fail..... AGAIN!!!



HendyR5
31-03-2012, 10:45
Well guys mot this morning and its a MASSIVE fail.

I've been unemployed since December so think its finally the end for me in the 5 game coz am sure this is gonna be a ££££ fix...

Heres the breakdown:

Offside rear suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded
Nearside is the same.
Nearside rear suspension mounting is excessively corroded aswell.
Lower steering column joint has excessive play *Dangerous*
Nearside ball joint... tester said coz the casing was ripped its a fail even tho theres no play in it :scratch:
Rear brake application uneven

Now this is the bit that makes me wonder....

Nearside/Offside parking brake little or no effort *Dangerous*
Efficiency of 9% *Dangerous*

And as advisories i've also got:

Rear disks worn both sides...
Near side innerwing holed rear off wheelarch no in prescribed area :scratch:

Now my problem is 1k miles ago i got new rear calipers, disks, pads, brake lines and a new handbrake cable so should the rear brakes be so bad when i've hardly drove it?

Whats ur take on it guys?

westy94
31-03-2012, 11:04
Get a second opinion/another test mate if you feel they doing ya,**** or bust really:disagree:

car.crash
31-03-2012, 11:47
The mot will be logged online so another tester can't dodge the faults.

HendyR5
31-03-2012, 11:53
A was thinkin the exact same mate, 2nd opinion just to make sure!

Well apart from the brakes and handbrake a can live with that but he said a would need to drop the rear subframe in order to get to the parts thats corroded... Is this a massive job?

Think its time to get the matches and petrol looked out if am honest :(

olidaviesuk
31-03-2012, 16:35
Well for a start the 5 hasn't got a rear subframe? If its the beam mounts that need welding then, is a case of four bolts and two hydraulic lines and the bias spring and the beam can be hung out the way, but if there is corrosion there then ;-/ it's a bit close to the fuel tank for me to wanna weld if I was doing it..... If its a competent garage then that's a good 3 hrs work to strip and refit and bleed the brakes...

If its the damper Upper mounts left one can be done in situ, not sure about the right as Reserve tank might Be in the way on a std gt....

I'd get a second opinion if I were u...


A was thinkin the exact same mate, 2nd opinion just to make sure!

Well apart from the brakes and handbrake a can live with that but he said a would need to drop the rear subframe in order to get to the parts thats corroded... Is this a massive job?

Think its time to get the matches and petrol looked out if am honest :(

Brigsy
31-03-2012, 19:30
Probably just the rear chassis legs or boot floor to legs requires some welding. Easy fix providing your handy with a welder, will need rear beam and tank off.

Split boots on balljoint/track rod ends is now a fail.

HendyR5
01-04-2012, 12:21
Well for a start the 5 hasn't got a rear subframe? If its the beam mounts that need welding then, is a case of four bolts and two hydraulic lines and the bias spring and the beam can be hung out the way, but if there is corrosion there then ;-/ it's a bit close to the fuel tank for me to wanna weld if I was doing it..... If its a competent garage then that's a good 3 hrs work to strip and refit and bleed the brakes...

If its the damper Upper mounts left one can be done in situ, not sure about the right as Reserve tank might Be in the way on a std gt....

I'd get a second opinion if I were u...

Got a few mates that will take a look for me as im clueless with the mechanical side of things.
Still find it strange the rear brakes are so bad, as a said less than 1k miles ago everything was replaced :scratch:

Briggs he said its slightly split, there only a few months old aswell! Just another job on the to-do list :(

LiamR
01-04-2012, 12:28
Keep going with it mate. It cant be that bad surely.

If cash is an issue, just do it slowly. Will def be worth it in the end bud :)

And as I know far too well, there are always people on here who are willing to help.....the beauty of the RTOC :agree::agree:

HendyR5
01-04-2012, 14:47
Keep going with it mate. It cant be that bad surely.

If cash is an issue, just do it slowly. Will def be worth it in the end bud :)

And as I know far too well, there are always people on here who are willing to help.....the beauty of the RTOC :agree::agree:

Your right mate a will just keep at it, cash is my only problem as i normally get garages to do any work. Next step is to find out exactly whats wrong and how bad it is.

HendyR5
04-01-2013, 20:33
Managed to get the old dog running again.... 1st time since June :agree:
Started spluttering until it was upto temp then it was as good as ever!
Anyway i've taken pics of all the known rust issues that will be gettin tackled shortly :sad2:

Behind accelerator pedal..
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss31/hreidersson/DSCF5240_zps6a337ba0.jpg

rear quarter window..
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss31/hreidersson/DSCF5241_zps28d08214.jpg

again..
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss31/hreidersson/DSCF5242_zpse0aa242e.jpg

view from underneath..
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss31/hreidersson/DSCF5243_zps1ad0df67.jpg

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss31/hreidersson/DSCF5248_zpsdd507d44.jpg
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss31/hreidersson/DSCF5247_zps51c75ea1.jpg

How do a adjust the rear compensator to improve the braking at the rear?
Does anyone know if the rear quarter window can be repaired with filler or am a best welding in a new section?
This is my first project and aint got any ideas or knowledge on bodywork haha

Cheers, Chris.

Penfold aka The Dealer
04-01-2013, 20:36
Don't bother with filler... Cut back to good metal... An learn how to weld... Plenty of project threads on here with very similar rust issues...

chris
04-01-2013, 20:43
That is way to bad just to fill as penfold says but it aint that easy just to learn to weld if it was then everyone would do it lol

dangerous dave
04-01-2013, 20:48
You should do what everyone else does, get a dodgy mot, keep it 6 months and then sell it..

6 months mot, never welded solid 5..

djinuk
04-01-2013, 21:01
my advice chris is dont give up.. you need to go balls deep and get stuck right in!.. and enjoy it, if you dont enjoy it , it wont work :)

chris
04-01-2013, 21:34
That one under throttle pedal is exactly what mine was like just get her solid everything else can wait

Sparkie
05-01-2013, 01:18
Split boots on balljoint/track rod ends is now a fail.


GSF now sell individual and kits of ball joint boots, just for this very purpose. ;)

djinuk
05-01-2013, 11:16
how close are you to haz aswell ?, his welding repairs look very very good, and the fact that hes familar with the r5 will make it so much easier to him.. I find mot repairs doen by garage are shocking at best.

HendyR5
05-01-2013, 12:55
Defo gonna keep at it... as i've said my knowledge is very limited tbh so im eager to get stuck in only pity is i'll need someone to do the bodywork for me :crap:

I'm up in Scotland buddy so think i'm pretty far from haz, i bought a rear quarter window surround off mike so just need it cut to fit basically.

Numptysnumnuts
05-01-2013, 16:26
Well sounds a bit like mine bought with a Solid MOT. Drove it 70 miles from purchase site to home before engine started to over heat and then gearbox/engine started making a noise. Didn't drive it for 364 days. Took it for an MOT and it failed on 49 items. It picked up the same issue on the rear brakes even though I was assured they were new.

Thankfully Mike and Tony sorted it out for me and fixed the 49 issues plus a whole load of other faults found which were not MOT specific.

Good luck on getting it sorted.

HendyR5
05-01-2013, 19:27
Well sounds a bit like mine bought with a Solid MOT. Drove it 70 miles from purchase site to home before engine started to over heat and then gearbox/engine started making a noise. Didn't drive it for 364 days. Took it for an MOT and it failed on 49 items. It picked up the same issue on the rear brakes even though I was assured they were new.

Thankfully Mike and Tony sorted it out for me and fixed the 49 issues plus a whole load of other faults found which were not MOT specific.

Good luck on getting it sorted.

Sounds all so familiar these days, good that u had a team to sort it aswell that know what there doing :agree: Gonna be a long road but am determined to sort it and get back boooosting!

royz
05-01-2013, 21:22
always looks worse on paper. if you want to have a go at welding heres a good forum it was mentioned in another thread on here and ive found it helpful. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/tutorial.htm

Gttnutter
05-01-2013, 23:40
You should do what everyone else does, get a dodgy mot, keep it 6 months and then sell it..

6 months mot, never welded solid 5..

Won't buy yours then when the time comes...oh.... hold on...is it finished yet :coffee:

HendyR5
06-01-2013, 22:25
always looks worse on paper. if you want to have a go at welding heres a good forum it was mentioned in another thread on here and ive found it helpful. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/tutorial.htm

cheers for that mate will have a look :coffee:

Bass J
10-01-2013, 22:17
good to see your going to have a crack at it man :) ..let us know how you get on ...and if you need any engine bits give us a shout as our workshop is just down the road from you :)

HendyR5
10-01-2013, 22:46
good to see your going to have a crack at it man :) ..let us know how you get on ...and if you need any engine bits give us a shout as our workshop is just down the road from you :)

Will do roberto gonna give it a crack. Still trying to get someone to do the bodywork without pulling me pants down :crap:

This is where the fun begins mate lol

Bass J
12-01-2013, 17:17
glad to hear it :) ...save a 5 ..keep it alive :)