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Sol
16-03-2012, 01:14
I'm having a similar issue to UnstableCable on another thread...

My car is having the same with white junk, with it also on the inside of the oil filler cap, i've also started to loose a TON of water so im thinking headgasket for sure on my 5, it's also started to smoke both black and white... Oil & water?

I rebuilt a chunk of her roughly 3 months ago with new pistons, rings, liners etc, complete gasket set, carb rebuild you name it and now this. I reckon running 18psi with a small metal intercooler (the pace one that is similar to the original) and an oil pressure that dash-gauge wise seems to drop when im on boost are the main causes of the problems. Lack of oil flow etc...

You lot think it's going to be headgasket to do the actual repair right? Just want an opinion really.

So, i'm thinking of this plan of action:

1) Fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge to check the actual oil pressure.
2) Fit a new refurbished oil pump if pressure is low.
3) Check the thickness of the head and get it skimmed. (Pressure tested?)
4) Replace the headgasket.
5) Fit a larger front mounted inter cooler to keep intake temps down & move the large capacity radiator I have over a bit so I can actually get the low temperature sensor wired up properly. (Fans on a switch so I may have not paid attention to engine temps after a fitted a thermostat).
6) Fit a water temperature gauge.
7) Turn the boost down a bit...


Sound right? Advice or recommendations chaps?

Luke :)

SCHWARTZ
16-03-2012, 06:54
And defo get an afr gauge if you don't have one all ready;)

Tony Walker
16-03-2012, 07:59
oil pressure has nothing to do with headgasket going or not. Thats generally temperature related unless your mixtures not right which at 18psi depending on carb specs is possible.

Mayo on the cap is 9/10 nothing to worry about. so too is smoke from the exhaust. if your burning enough to see vapour from the exhaust then chances are it would be hydraulicing when starting. black smoke is too much fuel.
Does it misfire on a particular cylinder? does it pressurise the coolant hoses so there rock hard(with the cap on)
is your oil in your sump(dipstick) all mayo.
Headgaskets are usually pretty tough items to make fail.

Also i would turn the boost down to as little as possible max 12-13ish psi till you know fuelings good and engines ok.

Sol
16-03-2012, 09:11
Thanks for the replies.guys.

I have an aem afr gauge & the fuelling is good, not 14.7 when on full throttle but around 13.5 to 14.
Which I think is ok?

No the mayo is not in all of oil, not on dipstick anyway.
My thinking with low oil pressure was that I may get hot spots within the engine & cause the headgasket to fail.
She also doesn't misfire at all, but rapidly loses water.

Hmm... :-s...
(i will check coolant hose pressure today)

Brigsy
16-03-2012, 09:24
Fuelling is very lean if 13-14 on full throttle/boost...you should be at 12.1 or richer. That could have damaged the headgasket.

You need to do a compression test to diagnose whats wrong.

As for oil pressure you need to fit a proper mechanical gauge, you should see 45+ psi at 3k+ rpm when hot on a good engine....oil pressure certainly wont kill a headgasket but will destroy your bottom end/turbo..

Sol
16-03-2012, 12:24
I haven't done a compression test but I had one of those units to check (co2) in the water system done & there was none. The head is ok.

She sounds like she is running well according to the garage, firing well on 4 cylinders but still the smoke & usage of water. I am starting to think turbo because the impellor is not very free spinning, an as brigsy pointed out if she had a lack of oil pressure the turbo would get knackered.

I suppose next is to fit the mechanical gauge & see what the oil pressure is.

Brigsy
16-03-2012, 13:27
Turbo wont be the cause of the water loss. Check for coolant leaks. You need to compression test it to diagnose. The headgasket can blow various ways a sniff test in the coolant might reveal nothing.

Id definitely get some more fuel in before it goes boom.

Tony Walker
16-03-2012, 19:29
Someone on here was selling a tool to pressurise the coolant system, worth getting and trying it out :agree:

Think simple first. Dont just think worst case :D lol


Plus turn your boost down till you can get your fueling upped. As said its too lean for 18psi

Sol
17-03-2012, 10:16
Thanks for the reply's chaps.

Brigsy - Thanks for the info, I will think about getting a compression test done then, im going to put a oil pressure gauge on today first though and see how that's doing first. Would you imagine though if it runs well though (doesn't misfire) & has had a sniff test the likelihood is that it is fine or would you personally still compression test it?

Tom - Do you know who was selling it & how much is was? :)

Both - I'll get the boost turned down today. I'll try and stick to about 10psi for the time being.

and... I'll let you know the developments..

Cheers,
Luke

Sol
17-03-2012, 14:21
Update - This is my discovery!
http://youtu.be/HzcrYo0rJTE

I believe it to be the turbo that is leaking oil, it is on both the front and rear of the turbo unit so I imagine its the seals?
(I will be checking the oil pressure within the next few hours)

AND... I think I have been loosing water as the radiator pipe has started to leak, didn't even spot it!

Next question is, that as I have the Prima Racing MD28R Stage 4 Turbo unit, are Turbo Developments likely to still charge me the £236 replacement fee or alot more?

Cheers guys!

GTphil
17-03-2012, 14:31
Don't know what they will charge you for a rebuild, depends how mullered the turbo is, from the looks of it your turbo doesn't seem to spin all that freely, at idle my turbo spins nice and smooth, yours kind of looks like it's labouring slightly. So I would suspect bearing and possable shaft damage.

I'm no turbo expert tho.

You could do with finding out why it's ended up like that and checking the oil pressure would be my first port of call:crap:

Sol
17-03-2012, 14:57
Just checked the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge & it sits at 38-40 psi idle & 45psi at about 4k rpm...hmm.. I mean I have always bought second hand turbo's due to lack of cash so it could be age etc..

I think ill either rebuild if its under 275 quid or look for a new unit someone's not used in classifieds etc.. hmm...