Running Hot

[Steevo]

I've not driven my car much since i've owned it, but the few times that I have, it runs much hotter than the previous 5's. I've replaced the fan switch and thermostat and bled the system a few times the best I can. When it's just idling it takes a long time to reach running temp, and eventually the fan cuts in just before the top shaded lines (HOT)

Also as soon as I drive it, it gets up to over the 3/4 line really quick and sits in and around there the whole time, which makes me pretty nervous. The other 5's i've owned usually sit around half way and the fan used to cut in just over half.

The engine drives well and runs over fine (was rebuilt just before i bought it) so I don't think its the HG.... but saying that the last time i bled it the interior blower was getting hot, now it's not getting hot at all :crap:

Hope this all made sense, any help appreciated:)

[jamie_clioGTT]

I'd consider giving the engine a good flush out and possibly buying a new rad.

[Alastair]

Your water pump impeller is probably shot too, flush the coolant system and try a new rad, if that doesnt sort it fit a new pump.

[Steevo]

I'd consider giving the engine a good flush out and possibly buying a new rad.

Forgot to mention I replaced the rad, fan switch and thermostat at the same time...

I'm wondering if the fan switch was the right temp as I just bought QH one from a motor factors... mind you doesnt explain the temp rising so quick when i start driving it (esp going uphill)

[Steevo]

and the water pump was replaced when the engine was rebuilt

[old skool turbo power]

I say replaced the rad also.sounds like a problem i had few yrs ago.the rad will run very hot anyway with any leaking water it normally dosent show because the water will just normally be evaporated by the time it hits the floor.normally leaking from the sides.:crap:if your fan works then the sat is ok also.

[Steevo]

I say replaced the rad also.sounds like a problem i had few yrs ago.the rad will run very hot anyway with any leaking water it normally dosent show because the water will just normally be evaporated by the time it hits the floor.normally leaking from the sides.:crap:if your fan works then the sat is ok also.


I thought it might be the rad too, so I replaced the radiator and thermostats as a matter of course and it made no difference:(

[Tony Walker]

If your matrix is cold it sounds like you have an air lock. try lifting the header tank as high as possible and opening bleed screws if this fails then take the hose off the header tank from the matrix and put a hose to it this should check its not blocked plus fill the matrix if it isnt.

[Steevo]

If your matrix is cold it sounds like you have an air lock. try lifting the header tank as high as possible and opening bleed screws if this fails then take the hose off the header tank from the matrix and put a hose to it this should check its not blocked plus fill the matrix if it isnt.

Thanks Tony i'll give bleeding it another go:agree:

Do you think trying a different fan switch will lower the temp that the fan cuts in?

[old skool turbo power]

another problem i had was the copper core ones.i had fitted one to my car and the rads they built the bottom outlet was slightly slightley to big and i found it was rubbing against the engine mount caused a slight grove and leaked water.check that just by chance worth a try.fitted a valeo and all good.
if not then bleed the system either blowin through the expansion tank till bubbles come outta the bleed screws then tighten them(2ppl)if not tie it up as high as you can and feed water through till bubbles are seen again but give it a good flow of water come out. normally if you do have air in the system when the engine is warm if you squeese the top hose and it feels pretty harder than normal then air is still in the system.run the engine at 1500 rmp till fan kicks in cool down then re fill.best of trying the cheapest options 1st:agree:

[Renault 5 GT Turbo]

One thing that springs to mind is coolant type...do you run OAT (pink) coolant or blue/green type d coolant?

If you are running the OAT based coolant, it is more than likely your matrix has previously had type d coolant. The two don't mix and the matrix internals could well have corroded and clogged up other parts of your coolant system - especially the turbo coolant unions where the diameter of the water ways is small and tight. Any debris from the insides of your matrix will collect here, making the car stay hot when you have been using the turbo moderately to a lot (even just holding 70mph on the motorway).

First of all, follow the advise given by other members here to rule out the more common issues. If this fails to work and what I have written sounds plausible, take one of the turbo water unions off to check it is clear.

[Steevo]

Thanks a lot for all the replies, appreciated:agree:

I'll give all of the above a go