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View Full Version : whats on the end of a standard cam?



gttjames
11-01-2012, 13:52
Just took my camshaft out and think its standard. Doesnt say 285 or anything, but has 2 letters on the end, a c and u , standard?

While i have it out should i replace with a different cam, if so whats best for fast road, i have a t25 turbo with the smaller rear housing .47 is it? Hear alot of talk about 285 be best, also what else will i need to fit with a new cam?

thanks

Markey Mark (BD)
11-01-2012, 14:28
Just took my camshaft out and think its standard. Doesnt say 285 or anything, but has 2 letters on the end, a c and u , standard?

While i have it out should i replace with a different cam, if so whats best for fast road, i have a t25 turbo with the smaller rear housing .47 is it? Hear alot of talk about 285 be best, also what else will i need to fit with a new cam?

thanks

Yeah thats standard cam mate.

Are you sticking with that turbo size? If so go for Piper 270 will give younice bit of mid range grunt, the 285 suits a larger turbo (at least .49 rear) much better.
With the 270 cam you can use standard valve springs but you'll benefit more with a vernier too although can use a standard pulley if funds can't stretch

gttjames
11-01-2012, 16:03
thanks mark, Yes i will be sticking with the turbo as bought it new and only done 1k miles on it, not to laggy either.

So the 285 wont be very good with my turbo? Is a 270 going to give enough gains over standard as a 285 isnt any more money. Also i see its optional with the valve springs, if i went 270 route would it be worthwhile adding the uprated valve springs and vernier pulley, what advantages will these give, just easier to time up with a vernier pulley? I havnt got the head off, just the pushrods out etc and pulled cam out the side so will it be possible to fit the valve springs from the top?

Also on a side note from my other thread, is the c1j engine 'fail safe' the pushrods all look straight, and the cam has no damage on it, just the lug on the camshaft sprocket sheered off, the car was only idling and just stoped, obviously cam sprocket spun but as it was on ideal and no marks on cam etc can i assume no damage has been done?

cheers

Markey Mark (BD)
11-01-2012, 17:03
thanks mark, Yes i will be sticking with the turbo as bought it new and only done 1k miles on it, not to laggy either.

So the 285 wont be very good with my turbo? Is a 270 going to give enough gains over standard as a 285 isnt any more money. Also i see its optional with the valve springs, if i went 270 route would it be worthwhile adding the uprated valve springs and vernier pulley, what advantages will these give, just easier to time up with a vernier pulley? I havnt got the head off, just the pushrods out etc and pulled cam out the side so will it be possible to fit the valve springs from the top?

Also on a side note from my other thread, is the c1j engine 'fail safe' the pushrods all look straight, and the cam has no damage on it, just the lug on the camshaft sprocket sheered off, the car was only idling and just stoped, obviously cam sprocket spun but as it was on ideal and no marks on cam etc can i assume no damage has been done?

cheers


Thats cool, the reason i'd go for 270 with that turbo is the smaller housing on the turbo is designed for response rather then top end power (bigger housings flows more top end), the 285 cam is suited to larger turbos due to it having its power band higher up the revs too. You could use a 285 with your turbo but i think to get best from it you need bigger rear on turbo to start with.
A 270 cam will work well mate, you'll deffinately notice a good improvement over standard cam. You don't have to use uprated springs with the 270 cam but most deffinately worth having a vernier as you'll be able to dial it in with abit of advance (aid spool) or retard (move power higher up revs) on the cams timing.

If you went new valve springs route you'll have to take head off to get the springs off the head due to the way the valve spring compressor tool works.

If it just broke the lug off the cam sprocket on idle you should be fine, might be worth pulling head off just to double check nothing touched but you should have been ok

gttjames
11-01-2012, 21:55
Thanks again, looks like the 270 will be a good option then and i think il go for it. Only reason i asked about valve springs is engine is unknown so didnt know if it was worth getting these aswell for abit more power and 'less valve bounce' as it says on cgb's add for the piper cam. Also older guy at work reckons he can pressure the cylinder and change the springs like that without taking the head off - but if there not needed il keep it simple and just slide the cam in and time it up:)

gttjames
12-01-2012, 12:30
sorry, next question. Is it worth the extra ££ for a blank, or will a reproffiled be good enough, as far as i can tell from searches is the only difference may be with pushrod adjustment, is this only issue?

Markey Mark (BD)
12-01-2012, 12:49
The only poss prob with a reprofiled cam is if the original its ground on had scored or worn cam lobes then you may find the pushrods may have to be adjusted to the max but i've rarely come across that alot.

If you feel better off with a blank then go for that, not too sure on price difference though

markey b
12-01-2012, 13:25
Thanks again, looks like the 270 will be a good option then and i think il go for it. Only reason i asked about valve springs is engine is unknown so didnt know if it was worth getting these aswell for abit more power and 'less valve bounce' as it says on cgb's add for the piper cam. Also older guy at work reckons he can pressure the cylinder and change the springs like that without taking the head off - but if there not needed il keep it simple and just slide the cam in and time it up:)

with springs u can stuff the bores with string with the cylinder at the bottom, then turn it to bring piston up until it wont go anymore, which will hold the valves in and use a socket and hammer to remove collets... pikey but it will work

gttjames
12-01-2012, 15:30
The only poss prob with a reprofiled cam is if the original its ground on had scored or worn cam lobes then you may find the pushrods may have to be adjusted to the max but i've rarely come across that alot.

If you feel better off with a blank then go for that, not too sure on price difference though


difference is about £80 - so enough, well il try a reprofilled one then bud, cheers

and yer mark old guy at work said something like that, gota be abit pikey sometimes:laugh:

bigdur
12-01-2012, 18:19
How easy is it to advance or retard the cam on a running car? I presume mine is retard atm but I'd prefer as little lag as possible.

Markey Mark (BD)
12-01-2012, 18:38
How easy is it to advance or retard the cam on a running car? I presume mine is retard atm but I'd prefer as little lag as possible.

Yours was set at 112deg from what i remember, might be worth resetting it to 110 or 108deg. You have the vernier so its just needs the verniers bolts loosening and rotating it alittle to advance it.
You will need a dti guage to do it right though

bigdur
12-01-2012, 18:52
That's double dutch to me Mark. :confused:

Is it something I can do myself with a little guidence of best left to a pro fettler such as yourself?

gttjames
12-01-2012, 20:32
Wheres the best place to buy these from aswell, cgb and a few other online suppliers im finding all to be the same price, go with cgb ?