Wot to check?

[Andyturbo!]

I've read thro the buyers guide but thort I wud ask anyway, wot are the most important things to check when buying a phase 2 5 gt turbo?. Rust spots like windscreen, sills, front panel, scuttle area, floors but is there anywhere else I shud be checking?

Cheers andy

[5alldaway]

in the boot have a look inside the wheel arch covers

[Andyturbo!]

in the boot have a look inside the wheel arch covers


Cheers dude, wot bout engine wise? Sorry for any daft questions but it will be my first gt turbo, how does the choke work? Is there any particular sequence when starting one up

[scratcher]

When you pull the choke lever, a flap in the carb shuts and allows a lot less air into the engine. It makes it run rich untill it's going smoothly.
They all seem to start up a little differently. Mine takes 2 pumps on the throttle pedal and then start it up. Or in the cold, a bit of choke then the 2 pumps.

[Andyturbo!]

When you pull the choke lever, a flap in the carb shuts and allows a lot less air into the engine. It makes it run rich untill it's going smoothly.
They all seem to start up a little differently. Mine takes 2 pumps on the throttle pedal and then start it up. Or in the cold, a bit of choke then the 2 pumps.

Right ok I get ya, thanks mate:agree:

[TNT Tricky Nicky]

check behind the headlights in the engine bay, what i would call the inner arch as water collects there and often rots there, also in the boot, there are 2 removable panel vents, one has a light in, pop them off and have a look in there as that's another water trap.

just remember they're 20 old year old cars so look for any signs of poor repairs, perished rubber bushes, gators and boots. other than that it's just standard checks really.

[scratcher]

Check the front and rear bumper mounts too. They can suffer a lot.
Along the bottom of the rear windows seems to rust a bit as well.

[GTphil]

Windscreen, it will always be worse than what it looks on the outside, bootlid, sills and jacking points also worth a good coat of looking at or as much as you can anyways.

For me rust is the most important thing to look for because it would need welding/painting and i would have to pay someone to do that for me.

Where as anything else i can do myself.

Engine wise. you want to try and get the car up to temp and check the fan kicks in ok, and leave it to idle for a good 5 mins and check for smoke this could indicate turbo oil seals.

Obviously listen out for any knocking from the motor, tappets are not usually a major issue but any kind of deep prominent knocking could be an internal engine issue.

Have a good nose round the cylinder head looking for coolant marks/leaks.

check the condition of the coolant, look for signs of the oil and water mixing or have mixed in the recent past.

if you get to test drive the car, look for signs of the clutch slipping and make sure it stays in all gears with no crunching ect.

[Andyturbo!]

Cheers for the replys guys got some great info to be going with, much appreciated :agree:

[Tony Walker]

Check for popping out of 5th gear if you accelerate and back off.
i too agree rust is the main killer, everything else is easily replaceable/fixable.
if you do buy one thats had the boost turned up alot past around 15 ish psi id turn it down for awhile untill you know its fueling properely.
rust around the petrol cap is a pain aswell.
And rear chassis where the rear axle bolts to the car, if its rotten there its a pain to fix. ideally you need a really good look underneath :agree:

[Andyturbo!]

One I'm going to look at on sat is running 10psi with a few mods, samco boost hoses, alloy intercooler that sort of thing but it's completely standard on the outside down to the decals down the side and so will let u guys no how it goes

[Tony Walker]

Off to a promising start then :D

[Andyturbo!]

Off to a promising start then :D



Yeah hopefully mate, just hope the shells clean enuf, will report back on sat lol

[jamie_clioGTT]

good luck dude! hope it works out for you.

[Andyturbo!]

good luck dude! hope it works out for you.


Cheers dude:)

[Andyturbo!]

I know this might sound daft but bare with me I'm very new to 5s lol but where is the choke lever located on the dash? Any pics wud be great and I'm presuming the bonnet release is under the glovebox? Also where should oil pressure be when idling and driving?. I know these questions sound stupid but I haven't looked at a 5 before, i know where to look for rot on a car and and basic mechanics but it's these small things that I'm not sure bout lol

Cheers andy

[youngscottie]

Choke lever by your right knee
I get about 20 psi hot idle on a good day with the pump shimmed
But ther all different

[Andyturbo!]

Choke lever by your right knee
I get about 20 psi hot idle on a good day with the pump shimmed
But ther all different



Cheers buddy:agree:

[djinuk]

My advice.. dont worry to much on teh engine.. they can be fixed..

worry about rust.. that writes these things off.. Id personally try to find an r5 on here thats either had the welding or at least had the sills as , as upon inspection its very difficult without ripping all the buyers bodykit off to really check.

:)

[Andyturbo!]

My advice.. dont worry to much on teh engine.. they can be fixed..

worry about rust.. that writes these things off.. Id personally try to find an r5 on here thats either had the welding or at least had the sills as , as upon inspection its very difficult without ripping all the buyers bodykit off to really check.

:)

Tbh as long s it doesnt blow up on the drive home I'll be happy lol. Where the rust is concerned tho I'll have my maglight and screwdriver to hand :D

[J$£5GTT]

just check everything..

[5alldaway]

if the owner claims the car has been super chipped then its a load of bull, you cant super chip these :)

[Andyturbo!]

Lol I know mate I wud have walked away if he had sed that, I put another thread up in gen chat about my findings lol