View Full Version : another silly f7 question... or two
markey b
19-09-2011, 23:16
basically got the 11 running, but no circulation through the rad, all the pipes stayed cold, could I have made the waterpump spin the wrong way with my belt routing?
also does anyone know what temp sensor does what on the head, I've replaced the top one with the R11 sensor, and wired it into the car but no reading on the gauge, if I remember correctly the middle one is cts, lower one for the ecu or fan maybe?
Belt goes over the water pump pulley with the back edge against the pulley.
The two temp sensors are so close together inside the stat housing it doesn't matter which does which job.
You did fit a stat didn't ya?
markey b
20-09-2011, 08:03
Belt goes over the water pump pulley with the back edge against the pulley.
The two temp sensors are so close together inside the stat housing it doesn't matter which does which job.
You did fit a stat didn't ya?
don't forget I'm running a clio ecu dude, so the ecu needs to see the temp, as well as me on the dials. having trouble getting it to idle properly, charger runs constant pressure even with dump valve venting it's still forcing air in, it idles for a couple if mins then dies, turning the fuel pressure down seems to make it idle a bit longer
Your crank, water pump, alt, and supercharger pulley setup seems fine, did you bleed the coolant system properly? top nipple on clio rad and hold the header tank high, is there any blockages in the system. How long was the car running for?
Ref to sensor's the top one as you say is for the dash clock's, why did you chaneg the sensor? sensor's are as you say.
Did you sort the idle rpm out?
markey b
20-09-2011, 09:48
Your crank, water pump, alt, and supercharger pulley setup seems fine, did you bleed the coolant system properly? top nipple on clio rad and hold the header tank high, is there any blockages in the system. How long was the car running for?
Ref to sensor's the top one as you say is for the dash clock's, why did you chaneg the sensor? sensor's are as you say.
Did you sort the idle rpm out?
i've got no bleed screws in my pikey rad pipes, but can remove the top of the rad as its standard 11 rad, and keep squeezing bubbles out. i put in the 11 sensor as it had one wire, the clio had 2 wires. i think my bottom rad hose is crimped so that could be stopping flow. the stat housing was hot but pipe coming off was cold, but even the other pipes were cold so not sure if it was a sticking stat
cleaned out the ICV and its better, but still running pressure on idle, even with DV venting to atmosphere
i've got no bleed screws in my pikey rad pipes, but can remove the top of the rad as its standard 11 rad, and keep squeezing bubbles out. i put in the 11 sensor as it had one wire, the clio had 2 wires. i think my bottom rad hose is crimped so that could be stopping flow. the stat housing was hot but pipe coming off was cold, but even the other pipes were cold so not sure if it was a sticking stat
cleaned out the ICV and its better, but still running pressure on idle, even with DV venting to atmosphere
I was going to say what was temp gauge showing but :ashamed:just remembered it's not wired up properly. Check the stat to make sure not sticky do the ole cold water then kettle water if it opens stat is fine if not you know knackered.
Don't forget these engines run warmer than C1J's so be prepared when you do get the temp gauge working that it sits on the 3rd line and easy over on a good thrashing.
Did the 11 gauge work on the previous engine? how have you wired it in
markey b
20-09-2011, 10:25
I was going to say what was temp gauge showing but :ashamed:just remembered it's not wired up properly. Check the stat to make sure not sticky do the ole cold water then kettle water if it opens stat is fine if not you know knackered.
Don't forget these engines run warmer than C1J's so be prepared when you do get the temp gauge working that it sits on the 3rd line and easy over on a good thrashing.
Did the 11 gauge work on the previous engine? how have you wired it in
yeah my cabby used to run really hot, to the point that you would see a heat haze out the bonnet vent!
gauge is wired in, by using one wire from the clio wiring onto the 11 sensor, and the other end connected to the 11 engine loom, straight to the gauge
have you connected the ICV into the boost circuit yet?
Does the clio ecu use a MAP or MAF?
I'd take the stat out and drop inboiling water fella just to be safe
markey b
20-09-2011, 10:33
have you connected the ICV into the boost circuit yet?
Does the clio ecu use a MAP or MAF?
I'd take the stat out and drop inboiling water fella just to be safe
no icv not in boost circuit as yet
its got a MAP sensor
i'll take stat out this eve and go from there i guess, after i've re-routed the bottom rad pipe :(
markey b
20-09-2011, 11:34
another quick one, there is a sensor under inlet manifold, with what looks like a grey wire the comes from alternator loom, that has no plug, i'm assuming that the plug is missing and it goes to this? what is this? oil pressure
also one on the back of the block, looks like oil pressure too, this has one spade terminal on, and there is an orange wire with bare spade connector on part of the loom that goes round the back to starter, but wont reach the sender unit?!
no icv not in boost circuit as yet
its got a MAP sensor
i'll take stat out this eve and go from there i guess, after i've re-routed the bottom rad pipe :(
First off get that ICV connected, bet your idle will improve then.
If ya stat is shot i think i've got a spare kicking around somewhere.
another quick one, there is a sensor under inlet manifold, with what looks like a grey wire the comes from alternator loom, that has no plug, i'm assuming that the plug is missing and it goes to this? what is this? oil pressure
also one on the back of the block, looks like oil pressure too, this has one spade terminal on, and there is an orange wire with bare spade connector on part of the loom that goes round the back to starter, but wont reach the sender unit?!
The 1 round the back is oil pressure, the 1 at the front is oil temp, dunno if the ecu see's that though but the clio has an oil temp gauge on the dash
The 1 round the back is oil pressure, the 1 at the front is oil temp, dunno if the ecu see's that though but the clio has an oil temp gauge on the dash
Sender unit at rear of block is a purple spade wire with black connector matey.
The one of the front of the block is oil warning light which I think was a cream maybe white wire.
markey b
20-09-2011, 13:17
Sender unit at rear of block is a purple spade wire with black connector matey.
The one of the front of the block is oil warning light which I think was a cream maybe white wire.
awesome, thank you
i'm now armed with autodata wiring diagram so i can make sure all the wires are in order
Sender unit at rear of block is a purple spade wire with black connector matey.
The one of the front of the block is oil warning light which I think was a cream maybe white wire.
I thought the oil warning light was on the other sensor nearer the sump over to the right?
I thought the oil warning light was on the other sensor nearer the sump over to the right?
Isn't that the oil level sensor
markey b
20-09-2011, 15:40
Isn't that the oil level sensor
yup that one is :)
another silly one, evap valve... am i ok to just unplug and discard it and bypass the vac lines, as i havn't fitted the carbon cannister
I binned mine on my F7P build, seemed ok without.
markey b
20-09-2011, 15:49
lastly... i've kept the aux water pump... is this relay controlled?
from what i've worked out, 4 brown relays, one is engine, one is fan, not sure of the other two
also the black one also works the fan if bridged and stays on until unplugged?!
lastly... i've kept the aux water pump... is this relay controlled?
from what i've worked out, 4 brown relays, one is engine, one is fan, not sure of the other two
also the black one also works the fan if bridged and stays on until unplugged?!
Ditch the aux water pump all it does is circulate water around the engine when car is turned off. I ditched it on my setup
One of the relay's is injectors and another is the fuel pump relay
markey b
20-09-2011, 17:10
i'm gonna have a play this eve, so i shall remove aux pump, play with wiring, and report back with yet more silly questions tomorrow :)
i'm gonna have a play this eve, so i shall remove aux pump, play with wiring, and report back with yet more silly questions tomorrow :)
Keep the question's coming gives me something to do @ work :laugh:
markey b
20-09-2011, 18:55
Keep the question's coming gives me something to do @ work :laugh:
lol, not just me that passes away work time with rtoc open in another tab ;-)
steer from the rear
20-09-2011, 20:30
u might find ur anti perc water pump is seized, i had to try a few off 19's till i found a good one for my old charge cooler set up
i had problems with my water circuit, it kep blowing coolant out my header tank :disagree:
Keep hold of that aux water pump, I might have a use for that
markey b
21-09-2011, 00:49
sorted it... bottom hose was crimped... remade it this eve and all is well. icv is plumbed into boost circuit and that now works as well. just wiring left now.. clocks will be with me tomorrow. even managed to make the front bumper quick release this eve :-)
sorted it... bottom hose was crimped... remade it this eve and all is well. icv is plumbed into boost circuit and that now works as well. just wiring left now.. clocks will be with me tomorrow. even managed to make the front bumper quick release this eve :-)
Good work :agree: no pic's:(
markey b
21-09-2011, 11:09
Good work :agree: no pic's:(
will update project thread at lunch as pics are on my phone
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