B18FT Conversion Parts and avice required

[Ashy]

Hi guys,

We started Jontys B18FT conversion this weekend and made good progress.

The C1J was pulled out and the B18FT fitted.
The front C1J engine mount was re-drilled to fit the F block.
We fitted the Prima Tubular Exhaust manifold.
Had issuses with the T25 interfering with the water outlet from the head so had to fit a small T3 on an extension bracket which has given the required clearance.
Its all in and bolted up nice and tight so now we need a little advice and some bits and bobs.
Can you help.

Firstly what fuel pumps do you guys use for this conversion?
With the Power Steering pump removed and the alternator running in the std position what length aux belt is required?
Do you retain the original alternator tensioning bracket?
Do you run the brake servo from the port on the windscreen side of the throttle body or the one under the ISCV inlet?
Using a std gtt radiator does anyone one have any helpful tips for the water pipe run? or is there a better rad to use that is easier to pipe up?
If we want to use the gtt sandwich plate does anyone know if the threaded insert that is in the block (that the oil filter spins onto) can be removed?

Right now for the bits that are needed....

Throttle cable.
Water pipes.
Volvo alternator & Aux belt.
Turbo oil feed pipe to suit a T3 (think its 1/8" BSP)
Oil return to suit a prima racing manifold + 2" extension.
Fuel Pump.

Cheers Chaps...

I will also PM Haz as I see he has loads of bts up for grabs :)

[boostjunky]

Firstly what fuel pumps do you guys use for this conversion?
I bought a Bosch 044 pump which I mounted under the car with an alloy bracket.
With the Power Steering pump removed and the alternator running in the std position what length aux belt is required? I'm using an 800mm belt which seems to be doing the trick, PAS deleted.
Do you retain the original alternator tensioning bracket? I did
Do you run the brake servo from the port on the windscreen side of the throttle body or the one under the ISCV inlet? I used the one under the ISCV and re-plumbed the PCV system.
Using a std gtt radiator does anyone one have any helpful tips for the water pipe run? or is there a better rad to use that is easier to pipe up? I used 2* 135 degree silicone pipes with an ID of 30mm, 2 joiners and a short straight piece of hose to connect to the standard GTT rad. Will grab a pic for you.
If we want to use the gtt sandwich plate does anyone know if the threaded insert that is in the block (that the oil filter spins onto) can be removed? Can't help here, sorry.

[SCHWARTZ]

i used the gtt sandwich plate with the volvo bolt and its working fine. cut the water pipe and extend it with some water hose to get it away from the turbo. i have 2x 180 degree bends havnt tried them out yet so may need the 135's but should work.
fuel pump i use an 044 but used a mk2 golf gti pump was fine for 18psi on a t2/25 fits standard bracket with slight mod (longer clamping bolt) same as the 044;)
brake servo i take from the larger port by the tb. for top rad hose cut gtt rad hose down fits fine.

[Haz]

nice to hear of another one in the making :)
prima manifold is fine but like you've found, anything bigger than a t2 fouls with thermostat and othe bits, also they could do with turbo supports adding, they aren't that thick so when they get very warm tend to crack, but loads easier to work on and make the downpipe.

commonly used pump is the vag/golf mk1 pump, bosch number ending in 191A and can get then from gsf, they'll need a tail or union makin for the outlet tho.
i forget which alt belt, just measure with string, x 4, 5, or 6 ribs and go to local motor factors.
various ways to do the alt, std bkt works best but can be a pain once the engine bay is loaded with rad, coolers etc. just up to you.
brake servo from anywhere off the manifold, just make sure you use the gtt one way valve of theback of the gtt manifold.
the gtt rad works well for std-15psi and is the simplest, more and the oil starts gettin warm takin the water temp up too. pipe run is simple, use the volvo metal pipe that runs round the block normally for the oil cooler. back of head there's 3 ports, maddle sized 1 to turbo, out and into that volvo pipe, biggest into matrix, then header tank then t into thermostat to top rad pipe. smallest as a self bleed to top of header tank. header tank works ok in std position but could do with being higher.
gtt sandwich plate, with gtt sandwich plate threaded tube ;)

as for parts,
just use a universal throttle kit for gtt,
pipes can be made up from volvo and gtt, got a few boxes of them so could poss sort out plenty to do all the runs, does need the off chrome pipe in there, and you'll need a flexi for the bottom hose, seem to remember them bein over 40cm long as they have to loop around the oil filter.
turbo supply and return are usually one off's, local hydraulic place charge bout 25 each for braided inc fittings, unions.
fuel pump - gsf

or buy any of my bits, tbh you'd be able to get everything you'll need :)

[Haz]

volvo water system here:
http://www.rtoc.org/files/Technical%20Files/haz/water%20cooling.jpg

i just swap the turbo outlet and matrix outlet round due to size, but similar setup to that

[Matt Cole]

Haz,

for times sake i think if you have all the bits he needs, he will take them!! Also another quick one, do you need to keep the boost solenoid? For simplicity and ease of running, it would be best to get it running with all the standard electrical jiggery and then eliminate it one by one in order of uselessness!:agree:

[Robbo]

i left the boost solenoid on, but then removed it

[SCHWARTZ]

Not needed. I went the simple route and stripoed everything not needed, boost solenoid,egr,aux water pump, just to keep things simple

[Ashy]

or buy any of my bits, tbh you'd be able to get everything you'll need :)

Or, what would it cost if we brought the car to you and got you to fit the bits we needed out of your garage? ;)

[Robbo]

my alternator is on its way up this saturday:)

[Ashy]

my alternator is on its way up this saturday:)

Come again, you fetching it up lad?

[Robbo]

yeah, up in sunderland on saturday, spoke to jonty and he is gonna pick it up

[Matt Cole]

Well stone the crows........................:eek: Jonty has actually sorted a part out!!

[Ashy]

Well stone the crows........................:eek: Jonty has actually sorted a part out!!


:eek:

[Haz]

Haz,

for times sake i think if you have all the bits he needs, he will take them!! Also another quick one, do you need to keep the boost solenoid? For simplicity and ease of running, it would be best to get it running with all the standard electrical jiggery and then eliminate it one by one in order of uselessness!:agree:

i wish he would lol. nope, thats first thing i removed, ecu tries to control to much so just bin it . .unless its staying std boost :laugh:

[philg]

I will have a pop down this weekend if you want a neb round mine guys :)

[philg]

I will have a pop down this weekend or one night if you want a neb round mine guys :)

[Matt Cole]

i wish he would lol. nope, thats first thing i removed, ecu tries to control to much so just bin it . .unless its staying std boost :laugh:
Haz pm for you:agree:

[Matt Cole]

I will have a pop down this weekend or one night if you want a neb round mine guys :)

Phil, that would be awesome chief. I will be starting phase 2 in a about a weeks time on the wiring and other bits and bobs so could do with a quick look just to speed things up. Pm me your no so i can keep in contact!:agree:

[Ashy]

Or, what would it cost if we brought the car to you and got you to fit the bits we needed out of your garage? ;)

As above!?