Seperate wastegate

[Dave Reed]

Hi peeps,
I'm after some guidance for doing this setup on my car.. Basically I have a T28rs with conventional wastegate control. What I need to no is, is it just a case of welding the wastegate shut? or is it best to get a new exhaust housing?

[Markey Mark (BD)]

You can have the wastgate welded shut but i think if you want to make sure its totally sealed and no risk of cracking i'd say go for new housing without a wastegate penny in there.

You decided to keep car then mate?

[Dave Reed]

Mmmm yeah that was my worry (it cracking)... I'll get on the phone to TD and see what they say.

Maybe :D;) for now anyway:laugh:

[Os8472]

No need to feck around getting it welded and having a manifold made to suit, have a look here

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-043&Category_Code=GTH

[5teve L]

Wasn't someone selling a 2871 with external gate for £250 Speedy ?? Not sure if they use a bigger housing or bigger wheels

[5teve L]

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=20296

[Scoff]

Dave, in Glenns it's just welded and it's been OK so far. But I remember Stuart Clark telling me that he had problems with his cracking open and so instead left the actuator inplace with maximum preload (and no pipe of course).

I'd say you'll be OK welding it as long as you use a big mig. Weld the penny to the housing, not just welding the rod shut.

[Dave Reed]

thanks for the replies guys..

Steve i'm going to look into that rear housing speedy is selling, might save a little on cost...

Chris, that's interesting, least i no the welding method works too :) couldn't see why it wouldn't tbh, good to check mind.. I did also think about just leaving the actuator vac pipe of, as in theory it would keep it shut.

I'm also thinking of just makin a solid rod in place of the actuator, cant see it moving that? :D

[Scoff]

People frown sometimes when you talk about welding cast. truth is its OK most of the time. Maybe you could make a downpipe without the wastegate cavity too, like a 3" pipe matched to the exducer with a conical transition.

[Dave Reed]

haha yeah they do.. My dad is one of them, he was saying i'd have to get in welded in some kind of fluid, thing is, i no nought about metals and welding, so he's probably right, he normally is :) ..

Errr to many big word's in that second paragraph mate, you lost me, sorry :) haha

[Tony Walker]

I have warped a turbo housing before, but i was using heat locally, i'd recommend maybe trying to get the whole thing hot deffinetly check that the turbine doesnt touch after doing it (dont just bolt it together if its warped u might damage the blades)

[Scoff]

haha yeah they do.. My dad is one of them, he was saying i'd have to get in welded in some kind of fluid, thing is, i no nought about metals and welding, so he's probably right, he normally is :) ..

Errr to many big word's in that second paragraph mate, you lost me, sorry :) haha

Well yeah, welding cast in the open with a mig is for mugs but it works, as long as you're not entrusting your life to it.

Re the downpipe, all I ment was you could optimize the downpipe design once you'd gotten rid of the internal wastegate. Optimal would be a conical (cone shaped) tube leading directly from the blades of the turbine (exducer) and gradually (over 3" or so) opening out to the diamater of your downpipe (3" I guess). So in other words there's no horrible turbulent space behind the turbine wheel, just a nice smooth transition in to your downpipe. Truth be told it'll probably make next to no difference but if you had the time to make a downpipe, and you wanted the best, that's how you'd want to do it :)

[SP33DY]

I'd just buy that fancy T25 housing in the classifieds and avoid all the messing about :D

[Ashy]

Well yeah, welding cast in the open with a mig is for mugs but it works, as long as you're not entrusting your life to it.


pre heat it (as hot as you can get it) weld it, then stick it in a bucket of sand and let it cool down as slowly as possible... Might stop it cracking!

[Dave Reed]

Looking into this a little more now.. Am I right in thinking that i'd be ok to use a 35/38mm one? I've had a search of the web but I can't seem to find anything about size selection... Only thing I keep reading is the bigger ones are better for lower boost levels??? I plan to run around 2bar, so to me, it needs a 1bar spring then some sort if electronic boost control?

Also they seem pretty cheap on ebay;

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/External-Wastegate-Brand-New-38mm-Ultra-Light-/380318415245?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588cbe798d

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/38mm-EXTERNAL-WASTEGATE-Black-/250766509034?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a62d943ea

But are these one's any good??

Thanks in advance.
Dave.

[Dave Reed]

pre heat it (as hot as you can get it) weld it, then stick it in a bucket of sand and let it cool down as slowly as possible... Might stop it cracking!


TBH I will be getting someone else to do the welding so I'll pass this one.. Hopeflly I can find a cast welder, if such a thing exist's :confused:

[soapymech]

TBH I will be getting someone else to do the welding so I'll pass this one.. Hopeflly I can find a cast welder, if such a thing exist's :confused:this sounds like a job for markey mark he fitted mine and iv had no probs with it , the one i use is a tial deltagate there quite old now but was told reliable. you can pick one up on ebay iv seen them on occasion so you will have to keep checking:eek: cant realy comment on any other wastegate but be carefull i have heard some horror storys:cry: