View Full Version : Braided Line Fitting
Need some quick advise as i'm in the middle of this now.
Fitting some new brakes to the 5, they have braided lines, I have undone the copper pipe from the brake cylinder where it joins the old rubber hose next to the damper. The old rubber hose knocks out of the metal bracket which holds the line in place.
The braided line has a nut to lock the hose to this bracket before connecting the copper pipe, however the tread is too large to go through the existing hole.
Anyone else had this issue, i'm guessing i need to use the bracket for safety as well as being able to use it to tighten the copper line?
I hope that makes sense, i'm off to take some photo's
Copper line Next to bracket
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/j8tro/IMG00212-20110122-1517.jpg
Braided line to right of the bracket (nut not on the thread)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/j8tro/IMG00213-20110122-1517.jpg
New brakes ;)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/j8tro/IMG00214-20110122-1518.jpg
Sorted................:agree:
Sorted................:agree:
nice brakes,so what did you do to get over it then?
:)
temporarily I have metal cable tied them through the hole in the bracket, the plan is to drill out the hole larger, but to be honest they don't move as they are and the pipes could be connected and tightened easy enough.
Woznaldo
22-01-2011, 23:55
When I fitted my braided lines I had to open out the bracket hole because the original rubber hoses had serrated locating spines the engaged into the opposite serrations in the bracket. I used a cone cutter to open out the bracket and effectively remove the serrations.
I wouldn't leave the braided line out of the bracket for too long, it's there for a reason and brakes are not an area to take shortcuts!:coffee:
Properly Sorted
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/j8tro/IMG00218-20110123-1311.jpg
Complete
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/j8tro/IMG00219-20110123-1458.jpg
I must admit, at the minute they don't feel as good as my larger std set up. The peddle is a little softer. however i bled all the brakes but not in the right order, would this matter?
I'll try em out more when its on the road and bleed it again in the right order if necessary
Dave Reed
23-01-2011, 15:31
I'd say to bleed them in the right order :agree:
I bled front drivers, then passenger. As they didnt feel up to scratch i then did rear drivers, rear passenger.
Ill do them again soon. I've read however it could be my servo is not up to the job! i cant be bothered changing that bugger! What are peoples thoughts on this, anyone with 4pots had to change the servo?
Dave Reed
23-01-2011, 15:48
I bled front drivers, then passenger. As they didnt feel up to scratch i then did rear drivers, rear passenger.
Ill do them again soon. I've read however it could be my servo is not up to the job! i cant be bothered changing that bugger! What are peoples thoughts on this, anyone with 4pots had to change the servo?
You should of realy started furthest away from M/S..
"I've read however it could be my servo is not up to the job" ( This could also be the case for the soft pedal feel, but bleed em first and see how it is after :agree:)
Are the pads the same on the 4pots? You have me worried now. Get them blead and give us an update captain.
phil
Gonna bleed em tomorrow in the correct order, i guess they need to be bed in too. Just the peddle seams soft, so i'm guessing there is air still in the system.
Let me know how you get on with yours
Right, bled the system in the correct order, peddle is better but not as stiff as my old set up. I'm just going to bed them in and see if they get better as they wear in.
At the end of the day they have EBC Greenstuff pads, so that might be the problem! Will swap them for some DS2500's me thinks.
Ditch the greenstuffs :disagree: :)
michael tierney
24-01-2011, 21:06
bleeding the rears with my car anyway is a pig!got good results with a vacuum bleeder but i think a pressure bleeder is the job!!
Tony Walker
24-01-2011, 21:09
greenstuff are soft till they warm up, once warm there pretty good, but... they are crap cold lol. bed them in get them a little warmer and they will feel much better. wether or not they'll feel the same as before is difficult to say. youd have to calculate the original brake piston size over the size of your four pots pistons, similar displacement will mean it should have a similar feel.
Tony Walker
24-01-2011, 21:13
stick your bias valve all the way forward and all the way back. you'll be suprised at the difference in pedal feel. obviously bear in mind your rear brakes will either not work or lock easily. it also helps to have the bias valve fully open to bleed the rears.
stick your bias valve all the way forward and all the way back. you'll be suprised at the difference in pedal feel. obviously bear in mind your rear brakes will either not work or lock easily. it also helps to have the bias valve fully open to bleed the rears.
I dont suppose you have a picture of how this is done, is it open when forward or back?
phil
car.crash
25-01-2011, 07:59
When bleeding the rears push the bias valve towards the front on the car to open it then open the bleed nipple and the fluid will flow much better.
When bleeding the rears push the bias valve towards the front on the car to open it then open the bleed nipple and the fluid will flow much better.
Good man, i have mine to do over the next few weeks, i did mine with this kit that goes on a spare wheels and forces the fluid through was amazed at the difference.
I have also read that bigger brakes can mean locking up at the front is a lot easier to do and to the load the back up a bit more, is this done the same way?
Is it something to do on the road or at a mot station?
Right, bled the system in the correct order, peddle is better but not as stiff as my old set up. I'm just going to bed them in and see if they get better as they wear in.
At the end of the day they have EBC Greenstuff pads, so that might be the problem! Will swap them for some DS2500's me thinks.
How much are the ds2500s for the highspec captain?
Cheaper than expected. Although at these prices I might go for the CL's, £68 FTW
http://www.hispecbrake.co.uk/page313.html
I use an Eezibleed kit, very good results normally. The bias is on the rear axle, open when the spring is under tension pulling it towards the front of the car, closed when the spring is slack which is usually the case if the car is jacked up. Just pull it forward to allow the fluid to flow.
so what is the correct order for bleeding the brakes? i will hopefully be doing this over the weekend and advice on how to do it proppa woud be great
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