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Matt Cole
26-11-2010, 21:06
Did anyone ever do a full conversion guide including wiring etc?? Got one to drop in at somepoint and can't be arsed hand balling it!! Sometimes being told what to do is quite refreshing!:D

TrixNFlix
26-11-2010, 21:52
It's pretty much all out there in the b18ft part of the forum. However I think Haz put a guide together and scoff was going to look over it and add some running tips? So I think Scoff has forgotten about it? :D maybe? :p

Matt Cole
26-11-2010, 22:17
It's pretty much all out there in the b18ft part of the forum. However I think Haz put a guide together and scoff was going to look over it and add some running tips? So I think Scoff has forgotten about it? :D maybe? :p


Doh! That scoff again?! Always letting the side down!:D

dave r5
27-11-2010, 13:19
I'll give u a really basic Borge guide feela.
Drop engine in hole using gtt gearbox mounts
And a GTX engine mount. Frow away Volvo loom and use standalone.

Retain Volvo down pipe and blu tack to gtt exhaust system.

The rest I forget lol.


On a serious 1 it is quite simple.

Top tip. Remove original gtt fuel presure regulator
Before fitting Volvo engine, and fit feed and return lines
Feed line aprox 1 meter, return line aprox 1.5 meters.

I did this in reverse and found it a rite pain

TrixNFlix
27-11-2010, 13:29
Dave, you do make me laugh :laugh::agree:

Matt,a few threads for you to read while we wait for scoff to see this thread ;);););):innocent:

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=312
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=15754

Matt Cole
16-12-2010, 14:40
Ok chaps. Anyone any further to a good installation guide including wiring?:agree:

Robbo
16-12-2010, 15:00
Ok chaps. Anyone any further to a good installation guide including wiring?:agree:


miller has some wiring diagrams

TrixNFlix
16-12-2010, 17:27
Ok chaps. Anyone any further to a good installation guide including wiring?:agree:

Matt, what do you need to know?

Matt Cole
16-12-2010, 19:21
Ok need to know all the stuff to keep, all the stuff to bin, which wires to connect to what in the gt. I have both ecu's, loom etc, but no coil, so need a suitable coil. Thats just for starters really.:D:agree:

TrixNFlix
16-12-2010, 19:46
right, you can bin loads of the original loom, but you compromise fuel economy and a steady idle,

For an uncluttered wire and vacuum bay i binned:

Idle control valve
lambda sensor
auxiliary water pump
injector cooling
electronic boost controler ( cant go over 0.9 bar on standard ignition timing ecu, unless scoff fettles with it):)


left me with wiring to :
ecu water temp sensor
knock sensor
throttle position sensor (will run without this)
coil
ecus :laugh:
injectors
flywheel sensor
afm

on the wiring harness you will see a big thick red wire, this is the power for the loom and is attached to the alt.
On the harness is also a red female connector. You need only 3 wires from this to get the engine working in the gtt. a grey goes to accelerator run position in the gtt ignition barrel (position 2 ) yellow wire i think! Blue/white wire goes to cranking position (position 3 ) on the gtt ignition barrel, orange wire i think! grey/red wire goes to fuel pump, so cut out gtt fuel pump relay out and join to the positive wire of the fuel pump. So with those 4 wires it will fire up.

For starter motor, rad fan and switch, keep original gtt wiring.

Matt Cole
16-12-2010, 21:09
right, you can bin loads of the original loom, but you compromise fuel economy and a steady idle,

For an uncluttered wire and vacuum bay i binned:

Idle control valve
lambda sensor
auxiliary water pump
injector cooling
electronic boost controler ( cant go over 0.9 bar on standard ignition timing ecu, unless scoff fettles with it):)


left me with wiring to :
ecu water temp sensor
knock sensor
throttle position sensor (will run without this)
coil
ecus :laugh:
injectors
flywheel sensor
afm

on the wiring harness you will see a big thick red wire, this is the power for the loom and is attached to the alt.
On the harness is also a red female connector. You need only 3 wires from this to get the engine working in the gtt. a grey goes to accelerator run position in the gtt ignition barrel (position 2 ) yellow wire i think! Blue/white wire goes to cranking position (position 3 ) on the gtt ignition barrel, orange wire i think! grey/red wire goes to fuel pump, so cut out gtt fuel pump relay out and join to the positive wire of the fuel pump. So with those 4 wires it will fire up.

For starter motor, rad fan and switch, keep original gtt wiring.


Awesome matey. Just what i need.

to clarify:

Big red wire = + onto alternator terminal
grey wire = yellow wire ignition barrel
blue/white wire = orange on barrel
grey/red = + wire of fuel pump.

Sounds good to me. I think from there i may want to keep the lamda and ICV. Possibly the boost solenoid valve if its any use.:agree:

TrixNFlix
16-12-2010, 21:34
yeah pretty much, just check youve got the right yellow wire as there are two, or you will keep loosing earth and the relays wont switch.

This shows a few more wires on that red connector
http://www.rtoc.org/files/Technical%20Files/Wiring%20diagrams/Volvo%20440%20turbo%20wiring.doc

You can also keep the gearbox speedo sensor and tee into the top half of the gtt speedo cable. :agree:

TrixNFlix
16-12-2010, 21:44
This might help too. :)
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz8/Trixnflix/DSCF1590.jpg

TrixNFlix
16-12-2010, 21:55
B3= INJECTORS
B12=FUEL PUMP RELAY
B2=FUEL INJECTION RELAY
B18=THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
B10=KNOCK SENSOR
A54=BOOST PRESSURE REGULATING VALVE
A32=DISTRIBUTOR
A53=IGNITION COIL
B11=IDLE SPEED REGULATING VALVE
B19=O2 SENSOR FUSE
B20=FUEL PUMP FUSE
B15=O2 SENSOR
D20=FUEL PUMP
B4=CRANK SENSOR
B14=AFM
B16=ECU COOLANT TEMP

Now get cracking!!!!!!!

Matt Cole
16-12-2010, 22:33
:agree: excellent that squire, weekends work there really. Just need a weekend free to get to it. Oh and its for my brothers five, just incase anyone thought i'd decided to ditch my car!:D

Ashy
16-12-2010, 22:57
Hey you're a good lad helping your brother out marrow, good for you :cooter:

Matt Cole
16-12-2010, 23:18
No prob marrow. Thanks for the loan of your double garage to carry out all the work. Six months should do it!:D

Josie172cup
20-03-2011, 14:50
how you getting on with this Matt?

Ashy
18-12-2011, 22:54
No prob marrow. Thanks for the loan of your double garage to carry out all the work. Six months should do it!:D

12 months later and its now in my garage.... I must have "I buy any 5.com" written on my forehead! :sad2:

Matt Cole
19-12-2011, 19:57
12 months later and its now in my garage.... I must have "I buy any 5.com" written on my forehead! :sad2:

Ha you love it marrow! I have a few wiring diagrams if your interested.:agree:

Ashy
19-12-2011, 20:48
Ha you love it marrow! I have a few wiring diagrams if your interested.:agree:

Yes please, like they say.... Every little helps!

Ashy
12-04-2013, 22:20
No prob marrow. Thanks for the loan of your double garage to carry out all the work. Six months should do it!:D

I wish, ha, it's still here, maybe fire up tomorrow? :confused:

Ashy
13-04-2013, 21:39
Good day spent today, BBQ, beer and garage time, thanks to Matt and mark for making a cuppa tea :agree:

Well over two years since I dropped it in (back then I didn't even own it) she fired up today!

Happy birthday to me! :agree:

Hope this works http://youtu.be/mY61Qlu0dgA

Slammed 66
13-04-2013, 21:46
Awesome :smokin:

B18ftMOJO5
13-04-2013, 21:49
Great i knw the feeling. :)

Haz
13-04-2013, 22:25
Good stuff, was the tank empty?

Ashy
13-04-2013, 22:52
Good stuff, was the tank empty?

Now then mate, thanks for the help, top banana :agree:

Nah it was the injectors, they were stuck of all things :confused:

We had fuel in the rail and a spark but it wouldn't run, we put a plug onto each injector and gave it 12v until it clicked open, then it fired straight up :)

It died after running for a while and then when you fire it up it cuts out straight away, wonder if One of the ecu lives has come loose... They weren't soldered on.... I'll check tomorrow!

Thanks again for the help,

Haz
14-04-2013, 10:26
The injectors can become sticky if not been used for a while, ive done the same in the past to get them working but it's best to get them cleaned to be sure.
It is known for the injectors to lock on and burn the ecu outputs.

Edit: also if the coolant sensor, by stat housing for gauge, front of head for ecu one with red plug, is not working correctly then it will make it really rich, like leaving the choke fully on in a ggt on a hot summers day.