View Full Version : Clutch cable problem
Since owning my car it's had a spacer on the clutch cable between the box & cable end. I thought it may be the fork bent but I've since changed the clutch, fork, pivot bush & pedal & it's still slack as hell without the spacer :crap: I've checked & the ratchet is all the way out & I believe it's working OK, James has also changed the pedal as well IIRC. The cable is said to be a new cable, genuine from Renault but it's at least 2" to long :confused:
What else is there that can cause this, I am going to try to get another cable from another car to try, failing that I'm stumped to what else can cause it, unless the part where the cable comes through the car is bent :scratch:
Either that or can you get the end off the cable & shorten it & replace ? Are they soldered on or crimped ?
Cheers
only input i can give here is that just recently we fitted a valeo green box volvo 440 clutch to my car,soft pedal kit,i have brand new genuine renault clutch pedal/ratchet an again genuine renault clutch cable (part number to hand somewhere),ratchet took some setting up but once done all worked slick an smooth,no washers to pack...nothing...
only thing i can suggest is check that ratchet and the cable..got another to compare it with?,think there are two lenghts but dont think your talking almost 2 inches difference maybe 5 mm or something??
:)
J
Ohh this car the dreaded cable again... steve as your friend i wish you the very best of luck.
i'll also add that one of the cables he had with the car was from my self, pretty new from renault, still had stickers on it, it matched up to the one iam currently running... its bizare
robbie506
07-10-2010, 18:45
i have just had the exact same problem garage quoted £500 to see whats wrong :laugh::jerkoff: towed it down to haz and the cable was stretched. if its got spacers already and its genuine renault looks like it will be a new cable. if you can borrow one to check then bob on.
TBH the car is getting on my nerves at the moment, I had to walk away from it earlier as I lost patience with it.. Hope to try another cable tomorrow. The only other thing it can be is the bulkhead is bent from where Chris put the release bearing round the wrong way :dearme:
Various cables tried, 2 pedal assemblies tried, new fork, new pivot, new clutch..... something doesn't add up :crap:
Adam 005
07-10-2010, 20:03
have you got the correct cable as there are two types for a gt.and long and short type.soz if you have been down this road:)
have you got the correct cable as there are two types for a gt.and long and short type.soz if you have been down this road:)
Thats what I wondered, is that 100% true Adam ?
modfather
07-10-2010, 20:33
i had the same problem a while ago found that the spring on the clutch pedal was stretched,i changed it and there was no slack :)
SCHWARTZ
07-10-2010, 20:56
i have also offered mu clutch cable to that cable and was the same length. I think every thing has been changed but dont think the bulkhead has been thought about really. Get a nice looking spacer sorted. Or get the long fork and bracket for the 440 and pack the bracket out;):D
i have also offered mu clutch cable to that cable and was the same length. I think every thing has been changed but dont think the bulkhead has been thought about really. Get a nice looking spacer sorted. Or get the long fork and bracket for the 440 and pack the bracket out;):D
Steve, I have the bulkhead metal bracket bit of Clint's shell you can have matey, will see if the clutch cable is still about aswell. Going to be a fecking bugger to replace it with the engine in the car though:crap:
Steve, I have the bulkhead metal bracket bit of Clint's shell you can have matey, will see if the clutch cable is still about aswell. Going to be a fecking bugger to replace it with the engine in the car though:crap:
Tell me about it :cry:
Does it unbolt then ??
Tell me about it :cry:
Does it unbolt then ??
Yeah it unbolts, but I had to remove the brake servo to get it out, brake servo was 4 bolts from inside the car then the brake lines to the master and 2 bolts from the master to cylinder and unclip from back of brake pedal then the servo and master will come out. You will then see the metal bracket which it sits on this has the clutch cable run through it aswell, the bracket is another 4 x 13mm bolts on the inside of the car, carpet and deadening need to be moved to get access though.
Yeah it unbolts, but I had to remove the brake servo to get it out, brake servo was 4 bolts from inside the car then the brake lines to the master and 2 bolts from the master to cylinder and unclip from back of brake pedal then the servo and master will come out. You will then see the metal bracket which it sits on this has the clutch cable run through it aswell, the bracket is another 4 x 13mm bolts on the inside of the car, carpet and deadening need to be moved to get access though.
Spacer it is then :wasntme:
If the new (old) cable makes no difference tomorrow I may cut the end off & re-attach with a large choc block as a stop...
I am assuming no-one else can pull the clutch cable as much as in this piccy..
Ok, having just had a grab of James cable (oo err) there is deffo something not right, I have another cable to try, then I'm on to bespoke stuff.. PMT style :laugh:
phase i 16 v turbo
08-10-2010, 09:03
have you got the correct cable as there are two types for a gt.and long and short type.soz if you have been down this road:)
There are not 2 part numbers listed for it. Where did you hear this? Can you supply the part numbers and I will check to see what cars they are list to fit.
Thanks
Ok, having just had a grab of James cable (oo err) there is deffo something not right, I have another cable to try, then I'm on to bespoke stuff.. PMT style :laugh:
Mine is defo stiff :laugh: clutch cable tension that is:D, try that other used genuine Renault cable that I dropped off this morning and see if it makes any difference it came of Clint's 5 and worked fine, I am trying to think what you haven't changed, so that's now complete pedal and spring, clutch fork, clutch and plate, clutch bearing, gearbox bush.
As you can see on the bracket that goes on the bulkhead there is no way that could have bent.
Compare the lengths of the clutch cable's you have and see if any difference in length.
I think Raj was having a very similar problem, i will try and find his thread.
Ok found it
http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=13824
Mine is defo stiff :laugh: clutch cable tension that is:D, try that other used genuine Renault cable that I dropped off this morning and see if it makes any difference it came of Clint's 5 and worked fine, I am trying to think what you haven't changed, so that's now complete pedal and spring, clutch fork, clutch and plate, clutch bearing, gearbox bush.
As you can see on the bracket that goes on the bulkhead there is no way that could have bent.
Compare the lengths of the clutch cable's you have and see if any difference in length.
I think Raj was having a very similar problem, i will try and find his thread.
I will be off over there in a bit, gotta do some work 1st. Will rip the cable out & check length against the other one, if it's not longer feck knows what it is :scratch:
There are not 2 part numbers listed for it. Where did you hear this? Can you supply the part numbers and I will check to see what cars they are list to fit.
Thanks
Mike, out of interest, are there different no.s for R5/9/11 & could there be a mix up with clio part no.s like the lower wishbones were a few years back ??
phase i 16 v turbo
08-10-2010, 09:47
Mike, out of interest, are there different no.s for R5/9/11 & could there be a mix up with clio part no.s like the lower wishbones were a few years back ??
Hi Steve I will have an ask later as I will be talking to my account manager at Renault and see if they have had any returns or complaints about this
I've got a pair of 11 turbo cables and a GTT one. I'll have a look after work to see if there's a difference and what they measure.
Thanks chaps.
I'm about to go over & pull the old one out to put against the one I got off James this morning.... If it's the same then it's going to be PMT FTW as I'm sick of this now :wasntme:
Thanks chaps.
I'm about to go over & pull the old one out to put against the one I got off James this morning.... If it's the same then it's going to be PMT FTW as I'm sick of this now :wasntme:
You going up John's I am going to take lunch in a bit I may pop up and take a peek with you matey:D at least you can look at my 5 and compare at the same time :)
You going up John's I am going to take lunch in a bit I may pop up and take a peek with you matey:D at least you can look at my 5 and compare at the same time :)
I'm just leaving now matey if you are able to pop over..
I'm just leaving now matey if you are able to pop over..
leaving work now:D
I'm just leaving now matey if you are able to pop over..
Been over had play with the clutch setup on Steve's 5 GTT on my lunchbreak and compared installation and setup to my 5 gtt and routing is identical. Clutch fork sits the same distance from the clutch cable gearbox bracket as mine, brand new gearbox bush has been fitted, as said previously brand new Valeo clutch cover, brand new valeo clutch release bearing, brand new AP paddle friction plact, Brand new genuine Renault clutch cable, 3 x clutch pedals 2 of which from known working cars before removed:confused:. The cable I gave Steve this morning is the same length as the brand new Renault cable he had fitted tried both cables with the results being the same. We are both now stumped, and we are thinking that it is something to do with the pedal rachet still but now on 3rd pedal and 3rd spring setup we are not sure what to do the 3rd pedal setup came off a car that clutch operation was fine. All the teeth on the ratchet's are in very good condition and that's on all the pedals tried.
Weird thing is you can get the pedal to be tight on the ratchet and firm on the clutch fork with your hand if you force the ratchet to stay in position. Remove your hand it will stay but as soon as you push the clutch pedal down it goes slack again:crap: just does not seem to ratchet enough. The spring's on all the pedals's have been pretty stiff aswell.
I'll just get the car back together & try it started but it still has all that slack, why the hell it doesn't work is beyond me, feels like the biting point is going to be low down & on/off :crap: with a paddle that will be fun in traffic :dearme:
Really got me stumped, as James says, if you click it on the ratchet by hand it's tight, as soon as you depress the pedal & let it back up the slack returns like it is supposed to be in that position. the only other thing I noticed is that I have alot more coloured inner cable showing than James where it comes through the bulkhed, not sure if that can make any difference. I may try chopping the old cable & crimping something on the end tight to see if it makes a difference at all...
phase i 16 v turbo
08-10-2010, 16:19
This all seems a little familiar.
I've just worked out what it is........................................... It's because I have a Raider, there must be a differnt part for it because it's a special edition :cooter:
This all seems a little familiar.
Enlighten me Mike..please :confused:
phase i 16 v turbo
08-10-2010, 16:26
At what stage did it start doing this with Chris? What did he change or what went wrong? I know he tried alot of fixes. I supplied him 2 x clutch cables from different batches and a working secondhand ratchet.
At what stage did it start doing this with Chris? What did he change or what went wrong? I know he tried alot of fixes. I supplied him 2 x clutch cables from different batches and a working secondhand ratchet.
Think it all started when Chris put the release bearing in the wrong way around and munched it up.:laugh:
At what stage did it start doing this with Chris? What did he change or what went wrong? I know he tried alot of fixes. I supplied him 2 x clutch cables from different batches and a working secondhand ratchet.
I've just asked James, all I can think is it was when he put the release bearing in backwards, I'm also thinking either the bulkhead or pedal box must be slightly bent, it can't be anything else, I measured between fork & where the cable stop is on the box, measured the cables, changed the pivot for new, re-routed the cable, changed the pedal & spring on the pedal, tried 2 cables, new clutch & release bearing, all with the same result.
phase i 16 v turbo
08-10-2010, 16:35
Is the cable pulling through the bulk head?
Is the cable pulling through the bulk head?
Only through the stop & only the inner sheath.
SCHWARTZ
08-10-2010, 17:16
when i fitted the cable with chris there was no slack like that:eek: it was tightish to the fork but didnt need much to get it over the fork.(if you get what i mean) chris never tried the clutch with the engine running as it had no coolant, and as it didnt feel like it used to so he riped it back out.:rolleyes: i didnt do anything different routed it the same way and made sure it went through the little plastic loop on the pedal ratchet.
Dave Reed
09-10-2010, 12:00
Steve, if you look at the pic you posted, I've noticed that the plastic stop bit that prevents the outa sheath sliding through the big plastic stop has snapped.... so basically, what's happening is the outa sheath is pulling through that, hence tension one min, none the next!!! Really difficult to explain, but hope you get that lol
Fix is a new cable. However I'm having the exact same problem on my car atm.. Been fine all this time, now all of a sudden, I have this problem.. Even tried a brand new reno cable and it lasted 3 pumps :cry: I just put it down to a reali heavy clutch, so am in the process of making something up ;)
Hope this helps.
TrixNFlix
09-10-2010, 12:11
Good spot Dave.:agree:
Keep us posted with your creation and wether their is scope for a group buy:) as i will be running the same clutch setup as Steve and can see me having the same problem.:D
Steve, if you look at the pic you posted, I've noticed that the plastic stop bit that prevents the outa sheath sliding through the big plastic stop has snapped.... so basically, what's happening is the outa sheath is pulling through that, hence tension one min, none the next!!! Really difficult to explain, but hope you get that lol
Fix is a new cable. However I'm having the exact same problem on my car atm.. Been fine all this time, now all of a sudden, I have this problem.. Even tried a brand new reno cable and it lasted 3 pumps :cry: I just put it down to a reali heavy clutch, so am in the process of making something up ;)
Hope this helps.
I think I know what you mean, is that supposed to be flush then, I thought it always had a little poking through ?
Steve, if you look at the pic you posted, I've noticed that the plastic stop bit that prevents the outa sheath sliding through the big plastic stop has snapped.... so basically, what's happening is the outa sheath is pulling through that, hence tension one min, none the next!!! Really difficult to explain, but hope you get that lol
Fix is a new cable. However I'm having the exact same problem on my car atm.. Been fine all this time, now all of a sudden, I have this problem.. Even tried a brand new reno cable and it lasted 3 pumps :cry: I just put it down to a reali heavy clutch, so am in the process of making something up ;)
Hope this helps.
Dave, it is a new cable:confused:
I'll be taking another look tomorrow as I hope to get the car running.
I'll be taking another look tomorrow as I hope to get the car running.
If you get it running you'll have to take a drive down matey:D
Dave Reed
10-10-2010, 13:28
Dave, it is a new cable:confused:
James, Yeah it may be a new cable, but if that is it in the pic, then it's broke already...
Steve, Yes it should be flush, well it actually sits back a little and should have a plastic bit to stop the outa sheath sliding through the stop... Think about it, if that moves then the cable is going to be too long ;) also if you measured how much extra cable you have poking through the stop, it will probably almost be exactly the amount you are too long by..
Dave Reed
10-10-2010, 13:31
Has anyone got a pic the same as steve's??? who's clutch is working, will prob explain it better..
Has anyone got a pic the same as steve's??? who's clutch is working, will prob explain it better..
Give me a few secs will go out to my car as mine works fine:D
Dave Reed
10-10-2010, 17:06
Give me a few secs will go out to my car as mine works fine:D
Chop chop been more than a few seconds ;) :D
Give me a few secs will go out to my car as mine works fine:D
Damm fecking camera needs battery:crap:
I have had a look at mine and mine looks the same as the pic but I have no slack
Dave Reed
10-10-2010, 17:30
Damm fecking camera needs battery:crap:
I have had a look at mine and mine looks the same as the pic but I have no slack
I'm pretty sure that it's not right! I only bought a cable the other day and it sat flush, until I tensioned it and it snapped the platic end clean off, pulling the outa sheath through! My old cable looked exactly like the one in steve's pic and that lastest 86k miles lol..
If it's not working then something is not right..
Has anyone got a new clutch cable to hand they wouldn't mind taking a pic of???
Sorted it.:D
Marks idea fixed it, I took the stop out & it tensioned ok, I put it back & it slacked off again so I filed a few mm off & hey presto, tight cable & stays ok when I depress the clutch :)
Still feels a little poppy though but I'll see how it is once I get hte car started.
Just need to sort the acc cable, carb gaskets & then put all the hoses on tomorrow.
& my saftey devices cage should be here tomorrow as well :cooter:
Dave Reed
10-10-2010, 18:01
Sorted it.:D
Marks idea fixed it, I took the stop out & it tensioned ok, I put it back & it slacked off again so I filed a few mm off & hey presto, tight cable & stays ok when I depress the clutch :)
Still feels a little poppy though but I'll see how it is once I get hte car started.
Just need to sort the acc cable, carb gaskets & then put all the hoses on tomorrow.
& my saftey devices cage should be here tomorrow as well :cooter:
Wicked mate glad you got it sorted.... They must of changed the cable design cause I'm sure the one I got the other day was flush?? But looking at this http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=588&page=8 Would suggest that that's how they are.. post 361
Yeah wierd, I only filed about 2-3mm off & it now allows the ratchet to set...:smokin:
Markey Mark (BD)
10-10-2010, 18:56
:agree: Strange fix but least it works, i was suprised too when i did it on car before.
:agree: Strange fix but least it works, i was suprised too when i did it on car before.
As per PM mate, thanks alot, that one would have had me :scratch: for weeks for sure.
Glad you finally got it sorted matey :coffee:
Can't believe after all that it was down to the clutch pedal stop need to be filled down a few mm :scratch:
So by slightly flattening the curved section on the clutch pedal stop (the white plastic stop), it aloud it to click one more time on the ratchet and that is enought to make the clutch pedal work properly :laugh: so weird how it used to work before and that was the remedy.
Yeah wierd, I only filed about 2-3mm off & it now allows the ratchet to set...:smokin:
think some folk have used a brake block as in bicycle brake block,thread already there an it just slots through the plastic stop locator hole,may have to trim it down.
also to add i am really happy with my long arm off the volvo,as well as an easier pedal i think the win comes with the cable will last longer as its not under so much stress with the old set up??...sounds correct in theory..
glad its sorted bud...get her fired up!!!!
J
:)
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