starting problems.

[SCHWARTZ]

just tried starting the car and at first all i got was a click. I turned the engine over by hand and tried it again, it turned over very slowly then stopped. I suspected battery so got the jump leads on the van, again it turned over slowly (little bit faster tho) stopped and then started clicking (quite quickly) from the starter. I can turn the engine over with a 19mm spanner it has good compression but its not seized or anything like that. I suspect the starter as it is one that i got from a breakers untested from a 1.6l 440 (thought that it would be ok as it has a higher comp than the turbo). what do you think dose it sound like starter or something else??:confused:

[devilish dave]

check your battery is good and has a full charge before anything else. had the same issue with mine. fitted a nice new 1 and it turned over mint :)

[Tony Walker]

sounds like a dead battery and a bad connection on the jump leads.

[TrixNFlix]

As Dave and Tony have said sounds like a dead battery. Take it off and give it a good charge overnight. Clean all your earths up too. :agree:

[SCHWARTZ]

ace cheers guys. il give it a good charge n go from there.;)

[dave r5]

Had this problem many times. Was never a battery tho. Just killing starters with the hear from down pipe. Double check yr earths dude as well

[SCHWARTZ]

gave the battery a good charge and now its turning over fine. :D
so onto the next problem:sad2: Im not getting a spark i have checked the earths at first i only had an earth to the gearbox so now have another one to the head. Should i add another earth to the block? Im going to go and borrow a multi meter now what/where are the main places i should check??

[SCHWARTZ]

I have earthed the block and still nothing. If i put the multi meter on the positive side of the coil with the ignition on (not cranking) there is nothing, is this right? on the connection that goes to the coil the black wire gets 0.2v and nothing on the other 2 dose this seem right?:confused: Should the coil only get power when cranking and therefore i need to test the coil when cranking?

[Shane P]

You may need a new TDC/crank sensor :)

[SCHWARTZ]

i have fitted a pretty much brand new one but i may try out my old one as you never know. cheers matey.

[Shane P]

Oooops, i didnt realise this was in the B18FT section, sorry bud :D

[SCHWARTZ]

no wories bud is the same sensor tho;)

[SCHWARTZ]

:yeah: it runs! After much fuking about it came down to the injector plug on the loom to be at fault, a pin on the loom had been pushed back and a pin on the lead to the injectors the same.
It wont idle on its own tho:mad: but dose run smoothly when you give it a bit of throttle. There is an annoying squeal coming from somewhere, Could the cam belt being too tight cause this as it dose feel tight but i have no tool to check it:rolleyes: I seem to be getting good oil pressure, and fuel pressure it roughly at 2bar at idle (hard to tell as it dosnt idle well) I thought it should be more like 3bar?

[SCHWARTZ]

right still runs like a piece of sh1te. did a comp test got
cyl number
1 9.1bar 131.98psi
2 9.2bar 133.43psi
3 9.0bar 130.53psi
4 10.0bar 145.03psi
does this seem right that number 4 is that much higher? all of these readings were taken with the throttle open, but i did try number 4 with the throttle closed and it came out at 9bar. Could the fuel pressure being a bit lower than it should affect this as number 4 cyl is nearest the inlet on the rail:confused: all the plugs were left in except for the cyl being tested.

[SCHWARTZ]

little update i have set the fuel pressure to 3bar without the engine on (pump wired straight to battery) and 2.5bar with the engine running as scoff said to. it was still running rough and making a squealing noise that i have put down to an air leak at the throttle body where it meets the plenum. when i removed the maf sensor the engine will idle (wont turn off when you turn the key back tho:laugh:) dose this mean that the sensor is duff or does it sound like the air leak is throwing the sensors out? I have used some instant gasket on the throttle body so hopfully it will all be sorted tomorrow:laugh:

[SCHWARTZ]

sorted the starter probs, air leaks etc... seems to run ok still a bit lumpy tho only prob now is that it wont turn off.:confused: must be something to do with how ive wired something but what could i have done to cause this? I have used the gt loom for starter and alt, then volvo loom does the rest. any ideas would be ace.:D

[James5]

Check your live and ignition live feeds to the ecu matey sounds like there is still a constant live feed going to the ecu even when key out.

How do you turn the car off at the mo?

[SCHWARTZ]

Check your live and ignition live feeds to the ecu matey sounds like there is still a constant live feed going to the ecu even when key out.

How do you turn the car off at the mo?

many ways:wasntme: drop the revs pull plug off of alt.
all sorted now simple case of alt live was using the wrong wire on the r5 loom:ashamed::laugh:

[SCHWARTZ]

i need to get a one way valve to go into the brake servo line. would something like this do or would it have to be designed to be used for the brakes?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10mm-Fuel-Non-Return-Valve-Check-Valve-One-Way-Valve-/140456275844?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b3d8af84#ht_500wt_928

[James5]

Gary I used one of these matey when I did the 172 conversion
http://www.justkampers.com/shop/type_25/brake-vacuum-non-return-valve-on-servo-hose-j11061-191611933.html

In fact Gary, I may still have a spare I can post to you matey:cooter::D

[SCHWARTZ]

cheers matey thats what im looking for. been told to try the one way valve for the c1j should do so may use that and see what happens.
Nearly there now should be there in the five on Wednesday (fingers crossed) Aslong as it dosnt fail the mot on something stupid:rolleyes: need new number plates made up and a new king lead and i think thats it. going to give it its first test drive tomorrow hopefully (just down the road) to see how it goes.;) Cant seem to get reverse at the moment tho been messing around with the gear linkage and no joy:sad2:

[SCHWARTZ]

Gary I used one of these matey when I did the 172 conversion
http://www.justkampers.com/shop/type_25/brake-vacuum-non-return-valve-on-servo-hose-j11061-191611933.html

In fact Gary, I may still have a spare I can post to you matey:cooter::D

just read the bottom part of your post:ashamed::D
im gona try the old one first and see if that will get it through the mot but if not i may give you a shout matey;)

[James5]

just read the bottom part of your post:ashamed::D
im gona try the old one first and see if that will get it through the mot but if not i may give you a shout matey;)

Gary no probs if you need it I found it won't cost you a penny just pm me your address and it will be in Mondays post :)

[SCHWARTZ]

well if its taking up too much room matey il take it off ya hands;):laugh:

[SCHWARTZ]

having a quick mess about with the car today looks like i have a slight crank seal leak:sad2: I looked for crank seals when i was changing the gaskets but couldnt find any so stuck with tho old one, bad move i guess. its only slight so im going to keep my eye on it and after i have done my first 100 miles and change the oil and filters etc... il change the seal and the clutch as its out;) Where can i get a crank oil seal from and what are the best clutches to use? I have the 215mm flywheel version so cant use the 4plate paddle clutch for the gtt:sad2:

[SCHWARTZ]

got the car off its axle stands for the first time in months today. has sat about 2 feet in the air for ages when i got it down i thought i was going to trip over it:laugh: had a little drive up and down but the brakes were ****e. think its just a case of the pads and discs have sat for a while. I have changed the hoses and the fluid i get a stiff pedal but no bite:sad2: